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Departmental203

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  • Location
    Edinburgh
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    Wagons!

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  1. OBA update: all of the decals have been stuck on the model and I'm quite pleased by the result! This also presented an oppurtunity to try out my late birthday gift: A Canon IXUS 185 digital camera, for £100 it's very good but it may struggle in the dark. Anyhow, some pics: Notice the two variations in the data panels, the short handbrake side (above) has the full set of info: TOPS code, tare, weight and running number whereas the long handbrake side (below) just has the TOPS code and running number. I need to paint on the 'T' after the '31' and add the 'TARE' markings before the 14-500 and 'kg' after it. I use a very fine Daler Rowley brush for this. As we emerge from lockdown (north and south of the border), I hope we can still find some modelling time! Happy modelling! Jules
  2. I'm liking the hedges, Rich! Reminds me of some of my neighbours who endeavour in keeping their hedges presentable.... Anyhow, good luck with the layout! Jules
  3. Over a month has passed since my last post! Apoliges, my modelling mojo has suffered quite a bit recently, as I'm more focused in seeing the real railway! I've still kept two wagon projects going, my OBA 110516 and an unmentioned Hornby YGH DB982582, the latter's in for some weathering. Well, first is the OBA. Both sides and interior complete ready for varnish The maroon colour is mainly Railmatch Freight Bauxite faded with a light wash of Humbrol 147 and I've included a splash of Railmatch EWS maroon for the fresher planks Ok, now to the YGH. I used some Humbrol Acrylic 33 (after my Revell No 8 Black woes!!!) thinned with alcohol to create a wash, darkening the sides and ends as per the real thing. My advice, when weathering Loadhaul Sealions/Seacows, is to use an airbrush if you have one, it's quite tricky to be subtle with a brush and alcohol! For a brush, my first attempt is not too shabby IMO, with the orange really knocked back Underframe and bogies: I used a mixture of Revell 84 and Humbrol 29 to get the "muddy" track colour found on the underpinnings. I'm hoping to apply some of it on the body too once I seal the black with varnish The chutes were first given a coat of Humbrol 62, then a thin wash of Revell 84 and finally, I made a wash by mixing Humbrol 147 and Humbrol 34, thinning it then applying it to the chutes to produce a dusty streaking effect common on ballast wagons. Stay safe and happy modelling (or trainspotting!) Jules
  4. That's looking good, Eddie! Certainly much easier than cutting out sheets of plasticard and forming the components! (The engine and battery boxes were interesting to make for me!) Well, good luck with this one! The Lima/Hornby 156 is a nice model, just the blocky underframe!!! Jules
  5. Wow, James, your weatheing job is absolutely stunning, I really like the filthy planking you have repesented...and the rust on the ends. Reminds me, I've got a Cambrian OBA to attend to! Jules
  6. Not bad set of projects, Eddie! Good luck on the 156 project, I really do think the Lima/Hornby Class 156 is a nice model, an underframe rebuild will seriously do it some justice. Jules
  7. Wow, these locos look amazing, Timmy! I really like the diamond shaped rust patch where the old depot plaque was on the 47. Jules
  8. Wow, Jack I'm loving the Meridian and I'm jealous of your soldering skills producing the ground/shunting signals! Oh, and good luck for that exam mate! Jules
  9. Sorry Eddie, I missed your post. If you want, I can DM you an old Railway Modeller article about rebuilding a Lima 156's underframe. But be aware that 153's and 156's have differrent undeframe components. Anyway, thanks for the kind words Jules
  10. Half-Full, unfortunately, I have and even shook it vigourously for 2 minutes but the results were the same. I guess it's because each can of paint is different once opened! Thanks again, Jack! Over the years, I haven't had much luck with enamel black paint in general as my last tin of Humbrol 33 turned lumpy if I recall!. I will definetly try out HMG thinners, they actually work out cheaper (by volume) compared to Humbrol's (this is from my local model shop) Cheers as always Jules
  11. Wow, that Voyager now really looks like a Meridan! Good luck with the project, Jack, I recon it will come in handy... Jules
  12. Thanks, Jack and Neil for the kind words! As promisded, I'm going to post Part 2 of my update, which sees me indulge in my more familar territory! I decided to revisit my Cambrian OBA, my first ever wagon kit I had built and painted back in 2015. Generally, I was unhappy about how I painted this wagon (paint layers too thick, plank colours not intergrated, inacurrate colours). So I decided to strip all of my poor paintwork and start from groud zero. I painted the ends and solebars Railmatch Railfreight Grey, which may be accurate when this wagon was brand new, but certainly not for its faded mid-2000's appearance! The paint stripper (Deluxe's Strip Magic) also weakened the glue, so I could break the ends off to make painting easier, which is displayed in the above pic. I used a mix of Humbrol enamels, 71, 110,147 and Tamiya's excellent XF-55, followed by Humbrol's Sand wash to tie the colours together. Also, the original Cambrian W iron assemblies were proving unreliable (that was my fault) so, when I damaged one of my Bill Bedford Springing W irons intended for my OAA (filed off the outer wire carriers - doh!) So I qiuckly soldered another and cut off the outer wire carriers (and another for my OAA, which I made sprung) and glued them on the original Cambrian assemblies to provide compensation. Shown below I salvaged my homemade tension coupling mounts and used 40thou plasticard and 60thou by 60thou plastic strip to make a new tension lock mount (the original mount was a piece of 40thou plasticard which projected from the original Cambrian assembly), my new arrangment is shown below. The "NEM" pocket was a piece of K&S square brass tube that can almolst hold a tension lock in position, a good sqeeze with pliers ensures it won't come out. Certainly much cheaper than buying loads of NEM pockets for my fleet of kitbuilt wagons! The view under the floor below basically retaining the Cambrian swivelling/compensated W iron setup, but with brass W irons Finally, I had a bugging problem with a tin of Revell No 8 Black, even after several days of waiting for it to dry when apllied, it would come off with some white spirit on a cotton bud (I assume it's because I used DIY white spirit to thin it!!!) Now, its sitting open so I can evaporate off as much of the offending white spirit as possible. Is this a remedy, or is this paint a write-off? Any advice/tips will be appreciated (my tip is DO NOT use white spirit to thin hobby enamels!!) I'm thinking of using HMG thinners to thin all of my enamels once the model shops are open. Cheers and stay safe Jules
  13. These wagons are looking sweet, Phil! At least you model the 80/90's when the OBA/OCA fllets when these wagons were in (relatively) good condition, not the wobegone apperance of today (the era I'm modelling)! Currently, I'm revisiting my old Cambrian OBA and I'm painting plank by plank, which can test my already limited patience! Jules
  14. Here comes another (huge) update - may will have to do in 2 sections due to the large number of photos involved!! Firstup, the 156, most of the underframe components are in place Sorry, it's a terrible pic but you can see the engine (green), alternator and exhaust silencer as well as the gearbox. Also, I chopped up the bogies and it dramatically improves the appearance, I snipped off the thin web sections at the front and rear of the bogies - even for the motor bogie as it still has 4 clips to the bogie (2nd pic) Added some separate footsteps from Evergreen 30 thou by 40 thou strip after carving off the moulded originals. Beware, the plastic can be brittle! Turning to the bodyshells, the only alterations were to the front end, I drilled some 2mm holes so I can glue some 2mm LED's so I can get some daylight headlights with some intergrated marker/tail lights (avalible from Direct Train Spares of Lancashire), the door colour was changed from the factory silver to Humbrol's 166 Grey, as I feel it's a good match to the grey found on the real Class 156's. The gangway cover I did several years ago - it makes a huge imrovment to the front end! Part 2 will encompass some of my wagon jobs I've been undertaken recently, that will come soon.# Happy modelling! Jules
  15. Looking good so far, mate! Good luck on further progress Jules
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