669cpb

Thanks for doing the video. Agree with car pulling a caravan look.

That would be perfect, many thanks. Thinking of getting the Trix Scotsman but only have OO coaches so not sure how it would look and don’t really want to buy any other coaches as already have Hornby Pullman and LNER teaks.

Any chance you could show what the Trix Scotsman looks like pulling OO coaches?

I have 3 AS 37s and all working perfectly but I can't see what the difference is in the lights between night and depot mode. Both seem to be the same which is effectively switching the head light off. What should the differences be?

Dapol Imperium 1 working fine for me. f0 - headlights (directional) f1 - interior lights f2 - tail lights (directional, requires f0 on) f3 - step lights f4 - search lights (directional, requires f0 on) I've put tape over the contacts at the loco end so lights at this end.

F8 coal shovelling seems to switch this on

The first of my 2 92's arrived today, 92038. Am speechless over the quality of it. Reasonably heavy and super smooth operation including the pantographs. Sounds amazing too. Detail of it is amazing and by far my best loco yet. Can't wait for the mk5 coaches to go with it plus 92032. Huge credit to the Accurascale team.

Thanks Charlie

What is best to use for lubricating the axles? Cheers Chris

OO gauge. Think I may go for the Realtrack FLA twin packs instead as they come with containers

Hi, I'm thinking of getting some of Dapol FEA-B Spine wagons (code 4F-044-005) and was wondering which containers would fit these or do they have to be the Dapol ones? Thanks Chris

Now saying 1000 will be made

Good points about the other people involved - massive credit to them too

Just wanted to say what superb service from Model Railways Direct. Ordered yesterday and delivered today. That is impressive considering these manic times.

Thanks for the sketch, definitely food for thought. A lot of thinking and replanning to do. Chris

Thanks for all the replies and feedback and plenty of useful suggestions. I was thinking of 4 loops to give plenty of train running and was trying to get as large radius curves as I could. May well rethink this now and aim for 2 to get better curves and could always look to add a third loop. As for area of the country, nothing specific but loosely based mIdlands to north (Stoke, Manchester) and so the 2 lines would suit this. Layout is edge of the loft with some access to the other side of the long sides with some contortionist moves. I did make a start with a smaller layout and made the mistake of using hardboard. Luckily I hadn’t got very far and having seen a few videos on YouTube decided to start again and take more time in planning and getting a better baseboard. Will go through these posts again to try and digest it all and take some of your suggestions on board. Only trouble with taking more time planning is that I keep seeing “bargains” on eBay and so need to stop buying locos as I can’t run them yet! Thanks again and look forward for more ideas. Chris

I am planning my first layout and would welcome any comments and suggestions on my plan below. Layout will be in the loft and is 7.7m long by 3.4m. Width of baseboard down the long side is 1m. End sections width 93cm. Light green/yellow section has the baseboard lower than the other 3 sides. Red section of track won't be used but is to make it look like the junction is going somewhere. OO gauge and era is modern circa 2000. I have extended the base on the fiddle yard now so have room for more storage but not got around to adding it to the plan yet. Idea is that 2 outer loops are fast up and down with the 2 inner being slow up and down. Not sure whether I need to have the option to crossover from each ? Thanks in advance, Chris

Thanks Richard. Just tried it and can also confirm it works. John - out off interest I will also try your suggestion and let you know. Thanks for all your help with this. Chris

A couple of things for me to try tomorrow. Thanks for your suggestions, will let you know how I get on. chris

Would using a bridge rectifier work?

Rick, Yes the green LED stays on regardless of the point position. I have tried the trigger on both D & E and just green. Here are the PM1 wiring and the signal diagrams, if they are of use. Chris

Although the prototype separate circuit works, I have now connected to the control panel and only green is lit. A trigger from the Seep point motor doesn't seem to work. Based on diagram below I was thinking the output from D on Seep PM1 would be input to the diode? D currently triggers the correct indication LED and signal representation LED on the control panel but the actual signal is staying green. I'm thinking this is because the signal from D is positive and trigger to the diode needs to be negative? Any ideas? Chris

Success. Used 3 x S9014 transistors and green light lit. Triggered diode and green out, red lit :-) Thanks Rick for your help with this Chris

Have ordered a mixed set of transistors from Amazon, coming tomorrow so will try again using S9014 and see how I get on

I was using 3 x 2N2222A transistors. I have found 2 BC108 so have swapped TR1 & TR2 for these. I now have both lights lit and when I connect the diode to 0v the green led goes dimmer and the red brighter. Whereas with the 2N2222As the green went out when connecting diode to 0v. Will have to see if I can find another BC108 to try.