Graham Radish

You might want to have a look on ebay for some desks, i use 2 of these screwed together for my n gauge layout, they are metal framed with height adjustment screws on the legs, theyre very strong tables with perfect loco running noise rejection, the top is 30mm thick, could save a lot of headaches: Just a suggestion hope it helps someone. Computer Home Office Desk Corner Wooden Desktop Table PC Study Workstation | eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Computer-Home-Office-Desk-Corner-Wooden-Desktop-Table-PC-Study-Workstation/303732047432?hash=item46b7d73e48:g:sCYAAOSwSpNfzUPE

B&Q do the first 20 cuts for free

This is the only reason why i never use those peco motors, they sound like gunfire, if the tortoise or dcc concept digital ip's are fitted properly you can hardly hear a thing. What i do is add silicone sealant then screw them to the baseboard half way to make a gap, once the silicone has set i remove the screws then theres hardly any noise.

Hello everyone, I've created this thread so you good people can post your experiences with any Ipad DCC controller software you use and how you use it, also to help others, give advice and to keep everything in one place for Ipad software. Cheers!

Oh awesome thanks!

Replace the motor, replace the wheels, replace the buffers, replace the couplings, replace the wiring and then some, what you end up with is great expense and the models originality and value is gone, we have to remember these like smokey joe were toys meant for children and were built to be rugged/strong, i'd just get it working as good as you can with the stock parts and tidy up the bodywork etc

In my tunnel areas i will be using code 100 set track 2nd radius curves and coming out of them will be using code 75 concrete sleeper flextrack, is there an easy way of connecting the two together, is there anything i should know about doing this? Cheers.

Modelling today's modern era is what i chose because getting high res images of rolling stock and track work etc. to work from is easy and in general i love all the modern stuff, i'm doing 2010 to present day. A present day TMD would be a great place to start. Here's a picture of Newton Heath TMD

Wondering if there was anyone who did custom metal loco name plates in OO gauge?

Now the bodywork, This is the first time I've ever fitted waterslide transfers to a loco so here goes, i'm halfway through doing one side, the Bachmann printed decals came off with my fingernail really easy as expected. Just done the 'Colas' and 'Rail' decals nearly done one side then on to the other, i've applied them with an 80/20 mix of water and PVA to strengthen the bond to make sure this never happens again. Once all the decals have been done the main body will be getting a coat of gloss varnish and any areas like windows that need to be masked will be masked with humbrol maskol. when the sides are done the roof will be getting a light coat of varnish thats in between matt and satin in sheen, light coat of sleeper grime on the bogies and some black wash here and there to bring out the details, obviously the black wash will have to be done first.

Well back on to the lighting, i thought it was all done but there's an annoying issue with the directional marker lights, they're too bright! and were overpowering the main high beam, so i removed both ends of the body and rectified the problem. Here you will need to replace 2x 0805 SMD resistors at either end, i have marked the image i took to show you which ones to replace, the factory fitted ones were only 1.5K Ohm this results in the marker lights being blindingly bright and this is not prototypical at all, the main white beam supposed to be much brighter, anyway the problem is now solved, once done simply use a good glue for plastics to fit the ends back in place. do NOT use superglue!

Right I've changed one side of the cab, more appropriate now i think.

No andi i'm glad you told me this! My driver is fitted to the side where the fan is, i take it then this side is where the engine door compartment should be? Thanks for letting me know, a great help. i think i have some satin baby blue acrylic in stock.

Cool, wonder if the colas interior would be this colour at the back?

Here you can see that I've also fitted a piece of this PC fan filter mesh to the top of the speaker, these speaker drivers are delicate and this prevents any damage to them, the silicone i used was a tube left over from when i did some work on my bathroom. its "Bond It WP70" it doesn't smell or make a mess like the old silicone sealant, in fact it smells quite pleasant - it's amazing stuff for metals and plastics and you can get it in about 8 different colours. Of course i could have used black tack but i wanted a more permanent solution. The sound from the loco now is great, very throaty with good bass and no vibration, im still amazed how much sound these little speakers throw out and with them being so small they're my no.1 choice now for small spaces, they are epic. I wish i could say the same thing about my DCC concepts rolling road though, to be honest it aint great. With an ultrafine 0.5mm tip marker i've picked out the raised details The 680uF low esr capacitor is fitted along with the diode and 100Ohm resistor. At the side of the speaker is a piece of plastic i had lying around out of an old airfix kit to tidy things up. A 680uF capacitor is ideal as it provides excellent power continuity with perfect running without having inaccurate running in train controller. And as i mentioned previously the CAB switch now turns the stay-alive off and on.