MikeTrice
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Posts posted by MikeTrice
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They are 8'0" Fox Patent bogies. Have a look at this thread: https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10472
You are in luck. Removing the duckets will expose the panelling Rapido thoughtfully included underneath.
More info here: https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9331
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On 04/01/2024 at 15:50, Blefuscu said:
I thought I had some better polishing compound in the loft, but I couldn't find it, so I'm calling them finished.
Next time try toothpaste.
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57 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:
I also took the trouble to weather the solebars and headstocks.
Perhaps I should weather the roof as well..............
At the time of the Exchange Trials it was heavily weathered, almost black: https://www.pressreader.com/uk/steam-days/20201211/281543703520681
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2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:
I've completed the 'detailing' on Rapido's Dynamometer Car.........
The end grills should be solebar colour, not polished brass:
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When you have finished curing, and even some days later, try putting the shell in very hot water and you may find it flattens any bowing.
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Just discovered this via another forum and had not heard of it before.
https://uk.humbrol.com/products/creator-3d-mini-printer-ag9172
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10 hours ago, Paul H Vigor said:
Chinchilla dust is fine-ground volcanic pumice. Horticultural ground pumice is the next grade up.
The one time I tried Chinchilla dust it was made of ground clay. When glued the clay dissolved and expanded, then on drying shrank and cracked so I have not touched it since.
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You are probably way beyond this point but comparing the 3D model with the Deltic image I would say the side profile is too rounded on the model where it should be more hockey stick. Have doctored your image to exaggerate:
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2 hours ago, Pebbles said:
... where Ken Pelling showed me a prototype.
Ken Pelham
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11 minutes ago, monkeysarefun said:
The printer should have come with a USB stick....
From memory the manual is also on the stick. If not it can be downloaded from the Anycubic web site.
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I suspect the gangways might be undersized. You might like to check out
If you go back through the topic you will also find some scale drawings that might help.
Good luck.
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Before adding the beading I think I would have been tempted to use some form of grain filler.
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On 28/10/2023 at 17:12, monkeysarefun said:
Coming in late to this and probably misunderstanding most of it because I'm Australian but can't the OP simply just post up a typical stl here that he has designed and we can all print it and then tell him what went wrong/how he can improve it for printing/how brilliant it was?
Otherwise its just a meaningless thread full of words.
I seem to recall many years ago Simon put up a sample coach on Shapeways that he (at the time) deliberately enabled users to download and try at home. If he were to upload it here, that would give people the chance to evaluate the quality of his stls and try printing them.
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You can also use superglue with microballoons filler powder. When rubbed down you get a surface just like the styrene.
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Rebuilt Kit: Details - Part 3a: Corridor Connectors Revisited.
The more I looked at the corridor connectors featured in my last post, the less I liked them. Having mentioned additional steps I have taken in the past at the end of that post I decided I really needed to remake the connectors using that technique.
In the past I have always made the bellows from 4 panes which resulted in 3 visible folds in the final bellows. Although I had GAs showing three folds most photographs seem to only show two. For this reason I recut the bellows using 3 panes:
These were folded, cut down the middle and assembled exactly the same as the previous 4 pane version.
This time one of the end plates had Evo Stik spread on it and a piece of black cotton placed across it:
With the glue still wet the bellows were then stuck to the end plate trapping the cotton thread:
The cotton thread limits how far the bellows project from the coach end when in an uncoupled state. To provide this a piece of 60thou styrene was placed on the bellows, the bellows compressed and the cotton thread knotted.
With the surplus cotton trimmed from the knot and the spacer removed the bellows now compress and expand. Evo Stik was then applied to the inner end plate and glued over the cotton to the bellows and weighted down to dry.
A strip of black lightweight bin liner was cut and one edge trimmed straight:
Being careful the avoid gumming up the bellows 5 minute epoxy was spread around the top edge of the end plates and thebin liner stretched over it:
When the epoxy had set the surplus bin liner was trimmed away using a new scalpel blade.
When fixed to te coach the resulting bellows are a great improvement on the previous ones and look more prototypical:
For the inner end of the coach I gave the cotton slightly more freedom so the bellows can extend further. How much your bellows need to project will depend on your track curve radius and your coupling gaps so some experimentation might be necessary.
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Rebuilt Kit: Details - Part 3
Using the end view from the drawing 4 pieces of black styrene were cut to make the vestibule connectors:
These were lightly solvented together trying not to flood the seams and part of the drawing glue sticked on top:
The width was trimmed to match the drawing then the top profile formed. The lower two layers of styrene were then separated by sliding a knife blade between the layers:
The remaining upper two layers with drawing then had the lower profile formed whilst the lower two layers were trimmed short. All pieces were then separated:
Black paper (90gsm - could benefit being lighter weight) was cut into strips 30mm high and widths of 16mm marked with pencil:
Each piece was folder into a concertina and the end centre lines marked. With the pieces all orientated the same way a slot was cut on the lower half of the folded bellows:
By rotating one piece 180 degrees two bellows could be slotted together thus:
Resulting in simplified bellows:
The bellows were then flattened and the top curved profile cut:
One end plate and one inner plate were then stuck to the bellows with a contact adhesive before it gets tacky resulting in two completed bellows:
Attached to the coach with more contact adhesive:
Normally I would wait until the coach is painted before attaching them.
The vestibule connectors shown here are fairly simplistic. I have been known to produce a slightly more detailed version. For this the bellows capability to extend is limited by two length of black cotton tied around the folder paper BEFORE glueing to the end plates. I then add thin strips of black plastic bin liners to act as a weather shield of the gangway:
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The other tip is to use capricorn tube when you come to replace it.
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Might be worth recalibrating your e-steps.
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Rebuilt Kit: Details - Part 3
The pivot covers were fashion from a strip of styrene starting by notching the end with the razor saw:
It could then be trimmed and roughly fashioned:
They can now be solvented over the rod fixing it in place:
The mounting block for the release valve was also fashioned from styrene and its odd shape filed:
The bottom edge was tapered and scalloped:
The release valve was fashioned like the pivot covers:
Both parts added to the coach (and the end cornice tidied up):
With everything fixed in place I was able to tidy up some of my rough cutting with the sanding sticks.
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Rebuilt Kit: Details - Part 2
Now for a job I hate, the alarm gear on one end.
First some photos of the prototype. The overall arrangement:
I am referring to the alarm gear on the rearmost coach which is the most common arrangement.
And finally:
So basically there is a rod which goes across the end which has butterfly "tell-tales" on the ends (painted red). The domed cover acts as a pivot and hides a lever connected to the communication cords inside the vehicle. The rectangular box next to it is a valve. When the communication cord is pulled the lever rotates 90 degrees rotating the rod with it which opens the valve which lets air into the system via the down pipe, destroying the vacuum and applying the brakes. The "tell-tales" which have moved from a horizontal position to vertical indicate which coach features the guilty passenger. Here endeth the technical lesson ;-)
First job is to mark where the two vertical mounting blocks should be located using the drawing as a guide:
The mounting block were carved from 2mmx2mm section styrene noting the odd angles needed where they meet the roof. It took me several attempts to get these reasonable:
The fix them to the roof I resorted to 5min epoxy as I am effectively trying to glue to Milliput. The end cornice really needs sanding back at this point. I will do it, promise:
Normally I would make the cross rod from 0.45 N/S wire with soldered butterflies but I had used styrene for most of this build and could not be asked to get my soldering iron out. In this case the cross rod has been cut to length from 0.5mm styrene rod. 20thou styrene was cut and notched to start the butterflies:
The butterflies has been cut in two and solvented to the rod:
With the solvent set they could be trimmed back:
Once happy the rod was solvented to the two mounting blocks:
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On 14/10/2023 at 23:09, Captain_Mumbles said:
Gorgeous.
Me or the coach? Sorry, could not resist.
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Rebuilt Kit: Details - Part 1
Gresley destination board holders comprise three sections as seen on this recent image of Buffet Car 641. This is the first time I have seen 641 since it has been restored following the vandalism incident some years ago. The lettering "BUFFET CAR" has been repainted the correct size of 5" over the gold:
The three sections feature brackets that provide slots into which the destination boards can be fitted. At the end there is a single slot:
In the middle the brackets have two slots:
There is a strip that runs along the top of the brackets (missing in the last image) which stops cinders falling behind the destination boards.
On my model I measured and cut two lengths of Plastruct 0.3mm rod based on the Nick Campling drawing. These both had the centres marked as did the coach side. The rods were placed on the coach roof aligning the centre marks and spaced away from the cornice at one end and a small amount of solvent added to just grab the end:
I then did the same for the other end using a pair of dividers to measure the distance from the cornice and putting slight pressure on the rod to more of less straighten it before again tacking the end in place.
A steel ruler was then placed up against the rod and pulled against the straight edge and solvented in place. This should result in a straight cinder strip. Apologies that the cinder strip being white does not really show up against the white of the moulded roof:
Small strips of 30thou styrene in two widths were then added representing the brackets:
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1 hour ago, Trestrol said:
But if you can find an interior picture of the NRMs buffet there is a screen half way down the carriage. This is part of the BR conversion. It has the half round windows in it.
As suggested:
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Completing the 4mm NER 6 wheel coach
in 3D Printing, Laser Cutting, CAD & CNC
Posted
I may be thick but what kit are you referring to?