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MikeTrice

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  1. For LMS use the LNER ones. The SR varient has an additonal flange underneath which I think is unique to that region. You could also consider the ones from Dart Castings: https://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt/2940.php
  2. They are 8'0" Fox Patent bogies. Have a look at this thread: https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10472 You are in luck. Removing the duckets will expose the panelling Rapido thoughtfully included underneath. More info here: https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9331
  3. At the time of the Exchange Trials it was heavily weathered, almost black: https://www.pressreader.com/uk/steam-days/20201211/281543703520681
  4. The end grills should be solebar colour, not polished brass:
  5. When you have finished curing, and even some days later, try putting the shell in very hot water and you may find it flattens any bowing.
  6. Just discovered this via another forum and had not heard of it before. https://uk.humbrol.com/products/creator-3d-mini-printer-ag9172
  7. The one time I tried Chinchilla dust it was made of ground clay. When glued the clay dissolved and expanded, then on drying shrank and cracked so I have not touched it since.
  8. You are probably way beyond this point but comparing the 3D model with the Deltic image I would say the side profile is too rounded on the model where it should be more hockey stick. Have doctored your image to exaggerate:
  9. From memory the manual is also on the stick. If not it can be downloaded from the Anycubic web site.
  10. I suspect the gangways might be undersized. You might like to check out If you go back through the topic you will also find some scale drawings that might help. Good luck.
  11. Before adding the beading I think I would have been tempted to use some form of grain filler.
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