MikeTrice
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Posts posted by MikeTrice
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It might be worth ensuring that the brick height is an exact multiple of the layer height, likewise the mortar courses.
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Following my earlier posting I have rescanned the appropriate reference with scanning auto settings turned off and the equivalent BSI colour sample for comparison.
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18 minutes ago, BachelorBoy said:
Does anyone know a member of the Order of the Garter who might be able to help ?
Does this help?
BTW it is different from Traffic Blue!!!!
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37 minutes ago, jwealleans said:
I added jumper cables and the dimension plate to the end. I'm not really sure why they aren't cast in. Maybe Mike can comment?
They were done over 22 years ago. I cannot recall why certain decisions were made at the time.
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5 minutes ago, BMS said:
Please could someone give me the full wheelbase spacings for a LNER C2 (nee GNR C2) 4.4.2T.
6'3"+6'9"+8'3"+6'0"
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Curiouser and curiouser. There is a clearer image in the Transport Library of the same image. What is more obvious in the Transport Library image is there is a chute below the opening. Given that it is positioned in line with the roof coal hatch I wonder if it is a way of loading coal from platform level.
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@rkathe attached might be useful. It includes the correct profile reproduced in 4mm scale as well as some underframe details (however not for the Buffet Cars). Open the pdf and print at 100% on A4.
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Original LNER GA drawings.
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Google confirms Noble False Widow.
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Following on from my earlier post about reprofiling the original Kirk ends I have made some further adjustments. My filed beading has been removed from the top along with some of the moulded in beading. A new top cornice has been added and the now mising end beading replaced with 0.5mm rod. A dimension plate and jumper cables have also been added.
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A thought. If you are going the scribe a groove on the reverse of the door there is a likelihood of breaking right through to the existing half-etch so it might be worth soldering a strip of brass across the half-etch first. Hope that makes sense.
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You need something like this:
You can also make up your own from old hacksaw blades. Search for "Scrawker".
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Use the marker pen on the etching, turn over then rub on some fine wet and dry and the high spots will appear as those areas with the marker pen removed. Keep rubbing until all the original surface is visible.
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Daft question. Could you not have simply reversed the doors so the panels were on the inside?
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The 3D printed ends are a bit of a diversion. They were just to avoid me having to use my one remaining original Kirk end. It is actually quicker to modify the original end as detailed than to print a replacement.
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I am not sure about Thingiverse but I might be prepared to upload here.
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2 hours ago, cctransuk said:
In the meantime, had you thought of marketing the 3D printed ends? (Or resin-cast ends from the 3D printed master)?
CJI
I don't think they would be viable. None of the techniques mentioned lend themselves to volume production.
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Some earlier posters have commented on the incorrect roof profile where the ex-Kirk 61'6" Gresley's are concerned. To me this has always made them stand out a mile and I can spot one in an instant.
In the past I have successfully cross kitted Kirk sides with an MJT roof and cast ends. One thing I have never tried, until now, is the obvious one of modifying the Kirk mouldings themselves.
So as a starting point here is a Kirk end against a scaled GA drawing:
Note how much shorter this is which results in a too short corridor connector and when viewed from the side too big a curve to the roof.
The first step was to build up the height of the end with styrene. I used Evergreen .080" x .156":
The addition was then filed back to the correct shape including at this point the end beading:
Now I have a confession to make. I should have included in the above modification the cornice that edges the roof. I managed to find one single Kirk end and some pre-used sides that I could just about cobble together to prove if this approach works, however I decided at this point ot print out using my FDM printer some replacement ends rather than use my last Kirk original.
The carriage body was then assembled after filing back the moulding draft along the top edge, adding a piece of 20thou styrene to restore the height of the side and cutting back the supplied roof to fit behind the extended ends:
The joint between the cut back supplied roof and extended ends was then filled with Milliput and sanded smooth. The transformation is obvious and the side profile is much improved in the process:
Yes I cheated by using a new coach end, however I have proved that it is perfectly viable to modify the supplied Kirk mouldings to correct the most glaring error in the kits.
Hopefully one day the new owners might be in a position to retool the roofs and ends to make this unnecessary.
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My guess is they are downpipes to drain water from the roof gutters.
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From what I can see panel variation did occur for non-teak coaches however this seems far less marked with Thompson coaches.
Simulated teak was subject to several coats of varnish as part of its application so would suffer similar aging effects to the varnish over time. Unlike teak, water would not soak into the metal and discolour it.
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8 hours ago, Ian Rathbone said:
It’s all in ‘A Modeller’s Guide to Painting and Lining’ (Wild Swan), plus 100s of other tips.
Highly recommended.
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There are lots of suggestions in the following topic. The photos were lost long ago but the relevant information is still there: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/15815-using-a-ruling-pen/#comment-148103
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LNER Coronation and West Riding Ltd Stock - Bogie Prototype
in UK Prototype Questions
Posted
I have posted images here: https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/threads/gresley-carriages-in-detail.9809/post-280489