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andreas

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  1. Thank you @Intraclast. I was secretly hoping for a drawing like this. Much clearer than any explanation. Now Hopefully I will find some time at the weekend to see just if I will manage to solder them.
  2. Thank you for linking the thread. I remember seeing this one earlier when I had just started with the kit. I have to admit, even with zooming in, I am still not 100% certain how to assemble the gussets. I have the pieces and I know how the result should look like, but I cannot work out how to get from one to the other. The picture also reminded me that I still need to learn how to best represent rust. So far my attempts have not been too convincing. On a very different topic, is there anything I should know about underlay in 2mm? For context, my 'layout' is a small number of 2
  3. Thank you for your help and encouragement. Without Nick Mitchell's video tutorial I would not have gotten close to a working chassis. As someone who had never used a soldering iron before, his basic soldering advice was particularly useful. I followed your advice and bent the axle boxes slightly outward. One axle is running perfectly now, much better than a comparable Farish wagon. The other axle has also improved significantly but may still need a little more tweaking. I think that was part of the reason. I remember struggling with the axle boxes. Perhaps I managed
  4. Having recently made that fateful first step into 2mm and kit-building my first victim has been the mineral wagon from the Association taster kit. Etched metal being an entirely new medium to me, I am rather proud the result vaguely resembles a wagon chassis. However, there is one minor niggle; the wheels do not want to run in their bearings at all. Normally, I would just take my pliers, bend the w irons and hope for the best. However, being new to wagon kits I thought it is perhaps better to check I am not doing more harm than good. Are there any other common reasons why wheels woul
  5. Thank you all for your replies. I must admit I hadn't checked the thread for a while. Also progress on my tiny module has been rather slow but the bridges are almost ready and I'll soon be able to start with the scenery. I suppose next time I'll follow a more traditional approach to baseboard and track laying. That's what you get for ignoring advice from much more experienced modellers. Jerry, I've been following your thread with great interest. Once I find a little more space and a lot more time my plans for the final layout are actually very similar: Bath Green Park/Midland St
  6. Thank you for your responses, Les and Chris. By pure coincidence I have identified the root cause of the problem. As somewhat suspected it had little to do with the locos themselves. Turns out Dapol motors don't like the basic DC controller I used to run in locos before chipping them. When using a Gaugemaster controller with a bigger transformer they suddenly move on the track too. My previous set up was a Hornby P9000 transformer (19V 0.5A) plus Hornby R8250 controller and the new set up is Hornby C912 (16V, 13VA) and Gaugemaster Combi. Perhaps the basic controller simply couldn't
  7. Hi all, Over the last few months I've been tempted into buying a number of Dapol tender locos. They are absolutely gorgeous models but I have been struggling to convince any of them to run adequately. Almost all models were second hand from a variety of sellers, both private and professional. With second-hand you always expect a few duds but getting 10 in a row seems unlikely and I'm slowly coming to the conclusion the problem must lie with me. The models in question are 5x 9F, 2x Britannia, 2x GWR 2800 Class. What they all have in common is that the motor turns okay by
  8. I appreciate it you probably had other things on your mind at that point. I certainly can't remember much of my x-country runs at school, besides the mud and my sore legs of course. If you are still a member of the Trust you can request a login to the member's section on the website. There you can download pdfs of every single issue since the 1960s. In the meantime I've sent you a message. Now that I've looked at my collection of Midford pictures again I'm wondering if I could add that to my Lyncombe Vale ideas. In n gauge Midford is perfect for a 'railway in landsca
  9. Apologies for not responding to your comments earlier. Things at work are always a litte busy at the end of the quarter. In the little spare time I found I managed to make good progress on the measurements - not so much on the rest of the layout. That's still little more than a pile of ply and foam in a corner of the room. It turns out that being member of the S&D Trust comes with additional benefits. I was able to source digital copies of the original drawings. Unfortunately, I can't post them here, but for anyone stumbling on this post in the future here are the high lev
  10. Thank you for your help so far. The pictures on pages 21 and 22 of Somerset & Dorset in Colour are indeed some of my favourites. They show exactly the kind of view I am trying to recreate. My other favourite must be the attached photo of the last up Pines I found on ebay a while ago. I think it may be a Colour Rail slide but I don't know who took the photo or if there are any more of it. Thank you for the link Richard. You just doubled the number of photos from the northern side of Lyncombe Vale. I had previously looked through the Bath in Time archive, but
  11. Hi all, After a long hiatus I have recently started my first layout in 25 years. I decided on Lyncombe Vale, in particular Watery Bottom Viaduct, for the first module of a larger n gauge S&D layout set in the early 1960s. I had assumed research would be easy given I'm aware of 50 or so photos of the area. It wasn't until I realised that I will need to model a view from the North of line that I noticed the complete lack of photos from that direction. I am only aware of a single photo: https://www.twotunnels.org.uk/gallery/image_lyncombe-greenway-lane.html Can anyone point m
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