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  1. Take the easy route set, up the z21 or Z21 as above then for the class 40 request from your setup device (smartphone, tablet etc) the identity of the loco and you should get the address and take it from there. It is advisable - especially on early sound chips - not to do a clean wipe (usually CV8=8) as this could possibly wipe the sound file leaving only the loco file. Ian
  2. The superglue option won't work here, the short is between the plunger, track and wheels, so even if glued 'up' the shorting will stay. After all the pushing and shoving of the Fleischmann loco I already have a matchbox with parts to put back on. First I will change the chip, the Roco had space to run the wires and put the chip in the boiler, the Fleischmann does not and the cab is a birds nest for which I have a new straight plug-in chip, no spaghetti involved! Very many thanks to all involved, although as Iain said we start at the tricky end without considering something basic.
  3. You won't believe this, I have 2 CFL 2-6-0 shunters / light traffic locos 1 made by Roco and 1 by Fleischmann. The fabled Fleischmann stud underneath was touching the wheels which have a lot of lateral travel resulting in a short circuit - this was the loco I used for testing. I put the Roco loco on and everything went swimmingly. Next question: how to remove the perishing stud? I had a similar problem on my granddaugters layout where the stud caught the level crossing, superglue sorted that but I think something more pro is needed here.
  4. Agreed. But here is something strange: I put the power feed at the end of the 'main' track where power showed, move to the next section of track and zero! I put the feed in the middle and now have power all over. The loco won't run as it has an ESU chip where I reset CV8=8 but don't know what address the chip is set to (I know, should be 3, but it doesn't respond). Pass me another loco please...
  5. I tried all this when I first got my Z21. Basically Roco messed people up by saying router (implying internet connectivity) but they should have called it a wi-fi system, which it is and other than being dog ugly does the job. It is true, though, that Roco should have paid the extra tuppence and put a wi-fi in the black box just for the railway.
  6. Okay, the story so far. I had to move the board and main track (thanks to the wife) which must have made something move, today the blue / green lights work fine and according to my smartphone no short. I did drop the tablet so that has gone for a new screen, should be back tomorrow. Not so easy bit, I put a loco on the prog track, gave it a number then placed it onto a long piece of straight acting as the main line. The loco doesn't move despite the lights being blue / green and no short circuit signal. Weird. By the way, I checked the voltages and they were okay - even according to Roco - but I have ordered crococodile clip wires for the tester as every modeller knows 2 hands are not enough!
  7. See above, looks like the Z21 is fine so tomorrow I will drag some cable out to attach the Z21 to the computer. If you don't hear from me again then the Z21 killed the computer...
  8. When trying to programme there is a short click from the Z21 then a green programming light. Only when I try to run the loco does everything go haywire.
  9. With nothing on the tracks all is well both on my Samsung smartphone and Acer tablet. Both run Android. Put any loco on any track and there is an instant short (the Z21 cuts out). The 'tools' are the Roco software, tested and up to date. Programming & reading via the tablet.
  10. I have a Z21 bought to run HO and HOe setups. I made a up a plank with section of each rail glued down then wires soldered from the track to a connector block and from there to the green prog track connector. After problems with constant shorts I put down 2 sections of track wired to the main track port. I tried 1 loco at a time on the prog tracks then the same on the main tracks having to swap the green connector each time, I also disconnected 1 of the tracks from the prog joiner to see if my dodgy soldering was the cause. POM was also tried but no joy, and you get no readback from the chip unlike the tablet. As I'm using Roco track I have yellow & blue wires taking care to keeep them on the same side. I turned down the output to 16v from 20v to be safe. Not a hope, whichever track and whichever loco I instantly get a short circuit warning. Does anyone have an idea before 1 of my chips goes fizz-pop! As usual Roco will be pleased to sell you something but assistance? Nope. Thanks in advance, Ian
  11. Bit late here, but Roco/Fleischmann have just put out an update for the WLANmaus whereby you can change the lights while the loco / train is stationary ready for setting off. As before the app needs to run via a 'virtual android' programme on your PC.
  12. Moien! Wéi geet et?

  13. Actually this would be early post-war, the CFL didn't have much stock left so when they got ex-German locos (and anyone else come to that) there was no way they were staying satin black and red, it was straight out with the matt black and a big brush. Note this is a goods loco - we didn't have enough intact track for an express! I have two ex-Prussian T9s in HO with slight differences but both are CFL class 32xx, again matt black.
  14. I hang my head in shame and plead guilty. I wasn't aware that the european VAT had been taken off the selling price and replaced with a UK VAT at the time of import. There again if I order something costly from the UK will the UK VAT of 20% be deducted and I pay the Luxembourgish 17% VAT? Purely hypothetical as I already bought the DCC control unit from the UK, everything else comes from Germany and is most often used so VAT paid.
  15. The CFL cheated, although they did use yellow for the markings
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