BusDriverMan

The two capacitors are in series across the motor terminals - same as the 04. More research says they're not needed when used with a decoder, and interfere with the decoder's speed control. I removed the capacitors from the PCB on the 04 I'd previously wired, and low-speed performance immediately improved. I removed the entire circuit board on the 14 by removing the motor and using desoldering braid, and the tags on the motor are much easier to solder wires to than the PCB surface. Conversion is complete now! Runs nicely and slowly.

Hi folks, My mission for tomorrow is to hard-wire a decoder to a Farish Class 14 that's been decorating my desk for six months. I successfully wired up a Farish 04 before, but that was far roomier inside than the 14! I saw a comment on a locked thread about another N-gauge low-bonnetted diesel - someone saying he'd remove the DC motor PCB to get the precious extra millimetres. And the decoder manual (Digitrax DZ126T) mentions I should remove RFI capacitors in the locomotive wiring. Is that what the PCB on the end of the motor is, with its two capacitors - should I remove it?

Can we take a moment to appreciate that (cast concrete?) signal gantry at East Croydon. Wowee.

Hey folks, I have a basic 3D printer, and a desire to spend my money buying coaches and DMUs from Worsley Works, and not on buying donor vehicles for inflated prices on ebay... I have in mind to 3D print a jig matching the vehicle's roof profile, and use it to accurately and consistently shape a piece of brass sheet into the correct profile to form the roof. The roof could then be reinforced and further held in place with a 3D-printed ribs and spine glued underneath. Since no 3D printed part is visible on the finished model, the surface quality of the print should be less critical. Has anyone experimented with this approach before? The only thing I could find about 3D printed jigs was an American modeller printing a jig for hand-built turnouts.

After watching the video, I looked up the MSE website and downloaded their assembly guide. They recommend tinning the handles - I guess it should be with lead-free solder?

Various non-gangwayed EMUs and DEMUs used drophead buckeyes, same as corridor Mk1s - all the EPBs, HAPs, 3H etc.