RFS
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Posts posted by RFS
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1 hour ago, Combe Martin said:
Its probably on here somewhere, but I cant find it.
I need to remove the bogies from a couple of Hornby Maunsell coaches to sort out a coupling mechanism that's jamming.
How do I do it ?
Happened to me a few times as well. You just slide a wide flat-bladed screwdriver under the bogie from the inner end, and then while holding your breath lever it up until it pops out. It's just a clip fit to put it back.
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You can do this by setting up a DCC consist which should be explained in your Digitrax manual. Basically you assign each loco to the consist and also which direction it is to travel in. The consist is assigned a unique number and you drive it via this number.
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I recently had a couple of NEM fishtail pockets fail and had to buy replacements. Of course they only come in packets of 10 (Hornby X6354), so I've had a few spare. So where I've had a Hunt coupling lose a prong I've simply reused it by glueing into a spare NEM pocket with a few drops of Loctite.
And a couple of couplings have lost their magnet. On one occasion the train uncoupled and the front coupling's magnet was left securely attached to the rear coupling. Again it's just a couple of drops of Loctite but making sure the magnet is the same way round as before.
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One daft one here ffrom TMC. £727.98 for a Britannia Models 4-CEP unit that looks decidedly inferior to the Bachmann model, which at least has door handles etc and can be had new for little more than half the price.
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Well good luck with that!
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1 hour ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:
I want to operate up to 15 coaches, and require scale separation of loco and tender on straight track. Now my recollection of the N class is about 22 years past, a late friend had one, and it regularly derailed its tender to the extent that he lost patience and we put in a plain drawbar - more on this anon.
This was a problem with early releases of the N and Bachmann revised the design to cure this. I have two N class locos with the revised tender coupling and never had a problem with either.
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1 hour ago, Combe Martin said:
I'm trying to produce this loco by renumbering & renaming a Hornby 34091 Weymouth. I've already done a tender swop with 34088 213 Squadron (which will become 34028 Eddystone), but I'm having difficulty finding out the background colour of Calstock's nameplate. Is it red or black ? All the colour pictures I've found so far seem to show it dirty, or is that black ?? I've got loads of Southern and Somerset & Dorset picture books, but most pictures are black and white. Does anyone on here know ?
Here's a photo of 34103 which shows the nameplate to be red. Might not have been red all its life though!
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8 minutes ago, TyBryn said:
Hi, I have just bought a used Bachmann 32-355 Class 4MT Tank on ebay and found that it has no blanking plug and so a non-runner. Looking at the 8-pin socket there is no marker to show which way round the plug should be fitted. I have ordered a generic plug NEM 652 from DCC Supplies. Is it safe to try the plug in either direction?
Yes it will work either way round. The loco does not have lights.
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1 hour ago, E100 said:
No idea if this is old news but I've noticed they've added a series of Bachmann bodies for sale.
https://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/c/1102/Diesel-Locomotives-and-units
Class 37 / Class 158 for example
There are a lot more available direct from Bachmann spares.
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I have a number of Tortoise motors and they are extremely reliable. However, I have had the same problem as you with one motor, and the cause was due to a failure of the internal switch I was using for frog polarity. Simple fix was to use the other switch on this motor as luckily I only needed one to be working.
I've seen that Circuitron say this can happen if, for example, some ballast has fallen into the motor and I'm assuming this might be the case with my failure.
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1 hour ago, grob1234 said:
They are Hongfa 12v Relays, the power to the CDU is 16v AC and the output from the CDU is whatever it is, as I couldn't measure it as the power is too momentary. I'm guessing there are too many volts going through it, and I've blown the relay!
Same relays as I have. Their input must be DC which is why I fitted diodes. Check the output of your CDU as I suspect its output might be AC.
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5 minutes ago, grob1234 said:
Well done that man!
1211 Latching relays now available on Ebay...Can you not wire the relay direct to the power source and only the point motor via the CDU?
What type of relay did you purchase, in particular what switching voltage? Mine are Hongfa HDF2 which are rated at 30V DC 3A for switching power. I use them with Lenz LS150s whose output is 16V AC at 3A, with diodes to convert the input to DC. Have been using them for years with no problem. Not now with points but with colour light signals.
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Silver Fox Models do a kit for the class 74 which has the same buffers. Wonder if they might have a set of buffers as a spare part?
Another thought - are the class 73 buffers the same as used on the 71? Dapol might be able to supply spares.
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24 minutes ago, Tony_S said:
Does the v4 upgrade actually exist for purchase now in the UK? The huge number of functions isn’t of any real interest to me but the ability for further upgrades via computer is of some interest. Though if the next Lenz upgrade is not in anyway imminent I probably won’t bother.
What Lenz command station do you have? You can't upgrade the LZV100 to V4 but Lenz do offer the option to replace your LZV100 with LZV200 at a discounted price. Although you can then do upgrades at home via the computer, these upgrades are chargeable and involve Lenz sending you an update stick (similar to a USB flash drive). One of the reasons I switched to Z21 where upgrades are free and can be simply downloaded.
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The seller has used a RM tracking method used by business sellers that only records when the item is delivered. Is the tracking number something like 320124833300550A5BACD rather than the full tracking service AB123456789GB?
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1 hour ago, John Tomlinson said:
Your other option would be to go for a new Hornby mechanism which uses the Lima, now Hornby bodyshell. This isn't as good as the Dapol chassis as it involves a motor bogie at one end only, but might perhaps be more economical.
John.
I actually did this many years ago now and it's just a straight body swap as both clip on in the same way. Just sold the two I upgraded models on Ebay a couple of months ago and replaced with a couple of new Dapols. One issue with the Hornby ones is their haulage power though. Nevertheless they were smooth runners.
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A while ago now I did use a lot of Peco point motors and used some relays as you are thinking of. I now use Tortoise motors with their built-in switches and the relays have been reused to work colour-light signals. I used them mainly where I had two points forming a crossover as one relay was equivalent to two Peco switches. Cost about £2.50 in components at the time - relay, a piece of board, diodes and terminals. The diodes were needed as they were being operated by Lenz LS150 decoders which were supplyin AC current.
LS150 input at the top, two sets of switch terminals at the bottom.
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Maunsell Coaches - How do you remove the bogies ?
in Modifying & Detailing RTR stock
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Not broken anything yet, but I do worry when using brute force in this way. I suspect you might be able to drop it out more easily from inside, but that would mean prising the body off which is another experience I try to avoid.
So much easier with the Bachmann coaches where the bogies unscrew.