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RFS

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  1. These are clearly Electrofrog points but I can't see where the frog is completely isolated from the switch blades. If they're not, then the frog is getting power both from the frog juicer and by the blades contacting the stock rails which could be causing a conflict. I would suggest you disconnect the frog wire from the juicer, and then use a multi-meter to check the frog is completely isolated from all adjoining rails.
  2. Do you have insulated rail joiners on all the frog rails?
  3. That's what I thought and why I put it off for so long. But I bought one kit and did an open second as an experiment, which must have taken me several hours over a couple of days to do. From that experience gained I decided some form of jig was necessary along with the right glue, so from my offcuts box I put together this - The coach is firmly held in place - the rubber corridor connectors being very useful as a card wedge is all that's needed. I used Revell Contacta glue but not its applicator. The jar is from a "Gu" dessert, which when placed upside down provides a smooth concave glass surface onto which I squeezed out a portion of glue for the work in hand. The glue remained usable for 10 minutes or so, and once fully dried just flakes off as it doesn't adhere to the glass. Glue was carefully applied to the windows with a cocktail stick. A good pair of tweezers was invaluable. Towards the end I was able to do a coach in about an hour including cutting out time. Also found 2 packs did 3 coaches on average - I bought 15 packs for the 22 coaches. One issue I had with the Hunt couplings is that once inserted into the Symoba NEM pocket, the pocket could not then be slid back onto the post. The prongs are too fat and partially block it. Filing the prongs back a bit worked, but made them too brittle and they easily snapped off. As I was using the latest version of the coupling with a shoulder to prevent the coupling going too far in, I just snipped the prongs off (not too difficult!), smeared some Loctite around the coupling shoulder and fixed them into the pocket. Obviously this is not reversible if you want to change couplings, but spare pockets are £1.08 a pair so not a problem. I did buy a couple more and found the pockets had been changed, and the Hunt couplings now fitted these without a problem. However the new design is slightly longer so I had to use a shorter coupling to compensate.
  4. My preorder for the first tranche of these coaches was in August 2019. Nearly 5 years later we still have no idea whether versions in the BR livery they spent most of their lives in will be produced. Just had another birthday and am now in my 80th year so how much longer can I wait!? I've got quite a few of the original Bulleid coaches which had mostly been fitted with Symoba close-couplings. All have metal wheelsets too. Tried selling a few on Ebay but got nowhere so I have decided to instead do what I've meaning to do for a long time - flush-glaze them. A few extra Symoba CCMs have been fitted to those brake coaches without them, and the Hornby Roco couplings have been replaced by Hunt magnetic ones. In all I've flush-glazed 22 coaches over the last 3 weeks and wish I'd done it sooner! Here's a 3-set coupled up to a Hornby Bulleid 3-set. I think they look quite presentable now. Even begun to appreciate the darker green ones too!
  5. MK1s in chocalate and cream livery were mainly for named expresses only. More details here - https://www.bloodandcustard.org/#WRChocCream
  6. Does that not then prevent heat expansion in hot weather with the risk of rails buckling?
  7. Suggest you have a read of this article to get a better understanding of the purpose of doing the coin test for DCC systems.
  8. The coin test is a important test for verifying the adequacy of your DCC wiring. With DC, the maximum track power is 12v at 1amp which equates to 12 watts. The OP's system is 3.5 amps at a likely 16v which makes this 56w. Not only is this nearly 5 times the DC load, it's also full power all the time. When a short occurs due to a derailment, that amount of power will flow through the loco's pickup wires until the command station detects the fault and cuts power. These wires are not designed to carry that much power other than for a fraction of a second. A couple of seconds would severely damage the loco (try putting 56w through a solenoid point motor for a couple of seconds, for example). This why voltage drop can cause problems. If the Op's wiring means that the fiddle yard is only getting, say, 35-40w then a short will not necessarily get detected immediately if at all, and irreparable damage can be done. (Think how hot a 40w incandescent light bulb gets the moment you switch it on - its filament is white hot in an instant.) You're also not going to damage your command station by repeatably tripping its internal circuit breaker - that's what it's designed to do. However when checking your layout in this way, it's best to remove other locos from the track. The Op says he has "many, many droppers" yet the problem is across the fiddle yard area. I would therefore doubt it's a sngle dry joint as that should only affect a small section of track.
  9. I would definitely try the simple coin test as this can indicate the problem being under gauge wire. Where the problem occurs, place a coin across the track and make sure the command station trips immediately. If it doesn't, then it means that the wiring at that place needs to be improved.
  10. I think this answer in the BT Comminuty Forum might help.
  11. No problem with having PAYG contracts. Both the wife and I have had one for years and I think all providers have these available. We use them sparingly in the house using the wifi, and when away from home just for emergencies.
  12. If you don't have a mobile phone as a backup, then your landline phone is a single point of failure regardless of whether it's digital or analog. Power cuts are just one issue and here we've only had one in the last 12 months that was only for about 2 hours. Equipment failure is a more likely cause of failure, and BT's analog equipment is getting very old. About 4 years ago we had a major failure in our village caused by cable failure that took out half the phones from the 40 or so properties. As the remedy required digging up the road, it needed emergency road-closure authorizations etc, which meant is was nearly 3 weeks till the service was restored. The failure was between the street cabinet and the exchange, and at that time our internet service was fibre-to-the-cabinet, so we retained full internet access all the time. Spent that time wishing BT would get a move on with DV. If this happened again, we would be fine with DV but our neighbours still with analog would not. And what about emergencies away from the home? You're driving home late at night, it's dark and freezing cold, and your car breaks down. What do you do if you don't have a mobile? I went to Tesco's the other day (a 6-mile drive) and half way there realized my mobile was still at home in the charger. A bit of mild panic set in!
  13. And many people overlook the fact that cordless phones will not work in a power cut either, as they rely on a pwered base unit. It also does not need a power cut to take out PSTN lines, for example, if they travel above ground on poles for part of the way. A big storm could take the pole out etc..
  14. Not broken anything yet, but I do worry when using brute force in this way. I suspect you might be able to drop it out more easily from inside, but that would mean prising the body off which is another experience I try to avoid. So much easier with the Bachmann coaches where the bogies unscrew.
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