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  • Location
    : Angus, Scotland.
  • Interests
    Scottish Independence (YES!), Railways (especially steam), P4 modelling, Forfar Athletic football club, real ale, Scottish history, industrial heritage, science fiction (esp. Culture novels of Iain M Banks).

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  1. I've just being doing that very thing, albeit lifting an old cork trackbed rather than whole sheets. I found that a wallpaper scraper worked best, followed by a going over with an electric sander (flat, not rotary). I'm not sure that water makes any difference, at least initially, as I don't think it permeates through the cork. DT
  2. I mentioned above that I had successfully used my old Lidl ultrasonic bath as a paint stripper. Having now acquired a 6L one, I thought I'd see if it would work as well. I have some old Triang plastic coach sides that I use for testing paint colours on, so over time they acquire a variety of hues, the paints being largely enamel. So I put half a dozen of these into the ultrasonic bath, added some of the Allendale cleaning fluid, and ran three 15 minute cycles at about 45 degrees. The water in the ultrasonic bath had turned red by that time, but most of the paint had been removed and any st
  3. There certainly is - https://www.kenteurope.com/en/nc/product/detail//etch-primer-p20887537be-nl-1/show/, though I haven't found it actually for sale in the UK. I did find it for sale in the Netherlands (https://shop.landreiziger.nl/etch-primer-450ml-aerosol.html), Finland, Poland, Spain, Slovakia and Germany, and another country that I didn't recognise, and then I stopped looking (I found myself at a bit of a loose end this evening). There appear to be numerous other Kent paint products as well. DT
  4. I have always used "rattle can" primers. I started with the standard Halfords ones which claim to be suitable for "bare metal" and, to be fair, I've always found them perfectly satisfactory. However, having read about the supposed superiority of etch primers I bought a can of Upol Acid 8 primer which I have found entirely satisfactory on brass. I believe that it gives a slightly smoother and perhaps fractionally thinner coat than the standard Halfords primers did and it appears to adhere well. When that ran out I found that Halfords did their own etch primer, apparently suitable
  5. I too was having this problem.. However, applying the fix suggested by Andy above solved it. Thanks. DT
  6. Blimey! A long long time ago I used to make track using the ply-and-rivet method. In those distant days there were no functional chairs available, although there were expensive cosmetic ones that were extremely difficult to fit to p&r track. So for quite few people, a neat blob of solder where the rail was soldered to the rivet served as a chair, and once smothered with paint and looked at from the normal viewing distance, it actually served quite well. Certainly it avoided the problem of having the keys the right (or wrong) way round, and having read all the above I cannot help but th
  7. I recently decided to remove some "weathering" I had inflicted on some innocent Hornby Dublo wagons many years ago before I knew better. Basically I'd just smothered them with thinned brown enamel paint. Anyway, I'd just got some new "general purpose" ultrasonic cleaning fluid from Allendale Ultrasonics and i added that at a rather high concentration of 10% to tapwater in my very ordinary Lidl ultrasonic bath. I ran it through a couple of 480-second cycles and was astonished to find that most of the paint had been removed without any harm at all to the body. I don't know what's in the flu
  8. The one you bought that was listed at £102 is now listed at £121! Like you I wanted one that would accept the coaches I build and for that i reckoned I'd want a tank width of not less than 250mm. Most of the 3L ones were 240mm wide which would have been a tight squeeze, probably insufficient if the coach had its corridor connections fitted. The 6L one I bought is 300mm wide and I got it for just over £80 (it hasn't got such a powerful heating element as yours). The cleaning fluid I bought cost about the same as yours although it has since gone up to £14 for a litre. Curiously,
  9. I didn't know they were that cheap! Spouse had been wondering what to get me Christmas, so this has solved the problem - one has been ordered. Thanks. DT
  10. I've had a LIdl one for several years and find it invaluable for cleaning up brass kits, especially after soldering. Too small for coaches though - I reckon I'd need a tank length of not less that 250mm for those and I envy Dave his 3L one. Because I use it most after soldering I bought some specific ultrasonic flux cleaner from Allendale Ultrasonics, and that seems to work well though I've no idea whether it does any better a job than, say, IPA. I also bought some general purpose ultrasonic cleaner from the same source. DT
  11. Struggling a bit to build a B9 turnout in P4. DT
  12. And notwithstanding what Ian says, it works. If you don't believe me, have a look at the reviews on Amazon - 4.6 star average rating out of 388 global reviews. DT
  13. Some 145 solders contain cadmium which can give off toxic fumes at 320 degrees and even with 145 solder many people will be using irons at temperatures above that. Not all 145 solders contain cadmium, however - in fact I understand that cadmium has now been banned as a filler in solders, but check before you buy. Many solders and fluxes give off fumes which is one reason I like to use a hot iron - quickly in, quickly out. DT
  14. Some time ago I used Humbrol Maskol without any problems - it peeled off perpex windows quite happily and without much mess or residue. It was an old bottle that smelled strongly of ammonia and I think I thinned it a bit with water before using it. I would also have peeled it off well within the 3-day limit suggested by Humbrol having sealed in little strips of paper to help with the peeling process. DT
  15. Just to clarify, my "full blast" is 450 degrees. If the iron is up to it, I don't see the point of using a lower temperature unless the specific nature of the work requires it. DT
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