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Kenton last won the day on August 6 2011

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  1. Kenton

    EBay madness

    I guess we can't all be experts. Always nice to help others out. It can be sometimes clearing out the loft/spare room/garage of junk you know little about.
  2. Probably too easy to hack. I would have thought the easiest system is one of direct 2-way communication between drivers. Self-preservation is one of the best safety locks. The drivers must know it is single track and where they are on the route. Two drivers about to head down a single tract in opposite directions would contact each other to find out who is going down the line first. Starting with the position that if not specifically told it is safe by the oncoming driver that there is one coming their way. Too simple, yes. Foolproof? No. But basic and better than what seems to be reported to have been in place here. I do not understand the "too costly" to implement argument. The trains look comparatively modern and were by all reports quite fast. Just poor decision making on allocation of resources. I hope that any investigation does go further than blaming one individual and look more into the reasons as to why it was able to happen.
  3. It is your time machine, fly it any way you like. If it is possible or even plausible, then leave it up to others to prove you wrong.
  4. Some suppliers would be too embarrassed to call the short composition of words "instructions" and in some cases it certainly would not sell them any kits. Some kit instructions are better built without them as they appear to have nothing to do with the design of the kit and emanate from fiction more than the trial build. Come to think of it some kits are even worse than the instructions. Fortunately there are some really good kits and well tested instructions with great exploded diagrams and photos from the test build. Anyway, just how many of us actually follow instructions to the letter? Don't we all think that we know a better way to build their kits?
  5. Wishing you all the success possible. I do have a sense of deja-vu. I also recommend that you read through all the BritMod topics (there are more than one) to at least get an idea of what you will be up against and maybe get some pointers. Kent is too far away for me to participate but I hope I can telepath some of my enthusiasm for the project.
  6. I think that qualifies you as a railway modeller. We all have them. Just need to find one with all the component parts present in the box at the start and that can be finished without resorting to alterations or redesign. Now where is that Airfix kit?
  7. I do think we are making out the process as being something of a horror when in fact it isn't. Like so many things in kit construction there are things that can go wrong but they can generally be overcome and only a case of learning how to do it with confidence and experience. Some extraordinary solutions being proposed. Perhaps those of us who do these things on an every day basis are wondering what all the fuss is about or have forgotten what it was like to do it the first time. Or, perhaps on the rarer occasion it happens to us we just roll on to the solution and think nothing more of it. Holes are a good idea where large areas are being laminated, and the concept is certainly not new, but this is not a solution to the problem and where not designed in to the kit can involve a great deal of unnecessary time and effort. Not all laminations are put on a flat surface, more often being applied to a 3D progressing build (as in the example of the OP). Resistance soldering is both a useful and dangerous tool. It has the potential at the wrong setting to vapourise the metal or more typically punch a hole through it. It nearly always heats the metal to well beyond the annealing temperature but in a very localised position. Yet in the right hands it can be used to solder white metal to brass (never white metal to white metal). Of course there is always the option (it pains me to say it , as it is a cop out) of gluing the laminates on. Most laminates are non-structural. But then if you take that route and give in the fear of doing it will not go away.
  8. What!? Did I miss something more intellectual? Marginally better than last night for content, marginally worse for having Class 37s. Don't tell me I'm adicted to it enough to bother with Part 3. Masochist!
  9. I think that happens to all of us from time to time. Thankfully it seems to be possible to treat the problem by starting another kit.
  10. brass layer laminations are nothing peculiar to AG kits (or even brass kits) many/most kit designers use detail laminations at some point or other. rivet detail is common. Small ones are not the problem. The issue arises in particular where the laminated area is large or where the parts can have uneven heat transfer. It is not only laminations, any long thin strips of metal eg valences can buckle easily due to uneven heating.
  11. Or even motorising a wagon or a coach, has been done and works just as well even if it does look rather surreal seeing a van going LE around a layout. I'm not so sure that the Kitmaster designs are so good a starting point and with all the effort entailed it might be better, even easier, to design a new kit to today's finer standards. At least that way you can proudly call it your own and have no fear from lawyers-r-us.
  12. There is a problem with using gas torches on laminated brass. The heat is considerably greater than the typical soldering iron and when used on very thin brass the brass is annealed very easily. I would not take the route of trying to effectively unbend the brass in that way. The crocodile clips even if well sprung might not work well as you are expecting the spring in the clip to be powerful enough to close the gap and un-distort the brass. The forces in the clips will be pressing on the rear of that brass as well as on the buckled bit so there is not a clear outcome. Stepping back: were both parts tinned fully before bringing together? I'm also not convinced about the application of solder paste solely round the edges, I would not do that (though I do use a RSU for this type of work) and when using solder paste, I always put the dots of paste towards the centre of the laminate, the solder then flows out to the edges. Placing it round the edges leaves an air pocket in the middle to expand. Laminating brass is straight forward but has a few potential traps. Once fallen into one of them the way back can be difficult. This is why best practice is to apply heat from the middle of the part and work outwards squeezing the solder/air/flux sandwich to the edges, the heat expanding the brass from the centre outwards. 1. remove the buckled laminate completely (may take you back further), clean off all solder on both parts, flatten the bucked laminate (may involve annealing and hardening the brass), start over. 2. Is the buckled brass actually visible, if it can only be seen by viewing from under the loco then just use filler and forget it. Having said that take heart, I think the only main reason it didn't work was not enough clamps. It does get easier, honest
  13. wasn't that done more professionally and in great detail by Portillo or some other presenter years ago? All I can say is that Snow's pension can't be good when he lowers himself to this level for a quick buck, demeaning. It is not that it was awful it is just that there wasn't any wet paint available. But I'll watch the next episode, I enjoy torture, just in the hope it improves. Though with a focus on Class 37s I doubt for it. Highlight was Class 66, Lowlights attempt to make science up and the hand-overs. As some one who spotted for a very short while in the late 50's (I past through most hobbies during that time even car number plates and matchbox labels) spotting steam was so much more fun than could ever be had from spotting variants on the boxes of today.
  14. Interesting idea though I'm not sure about the domestic's view on use of an oven exposed to fumes from fluxes. I don't get much of a problem with laminating parts and for small items really prefer higher temperature solders. Nothing worse than laminating a grill on the side of a body then have it slide as the body is soldered up. Not quite sure about the slow cooling idea though. I was always told don't open the oven door while cooking as you will let all the heat out. I believe that brass loses temperature very quickly.
  15. I think I have just lost my sight, and the 2mm signal box interior just confirms it. The photos are so enlarged the detail looks bigger than reality. The 4mm were struggle enough while being very impressive but 2mm ... incredible detail.
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