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Everything posted by Scale7JB

  1. Been concentrating on the bogie which should be finished tomorrow, but tonight thought inwouldnlooknat something different. Possibly the most difficult part of the kit - Cab side and front sheets. Over the moon with how it worked out. The splasher is not soldered on to the footplate just yet.
  2. I've just been searching through my thread on a different forum for some example photos. This is how the etches came in the kit.. quite tarnished and a noticeable lack of shine. Brass tarnishes very quickly so regularly needs cleaning. And this is the nearly completed wagon as cleaned with Barkeepers friend. It really ought to be this clean before soldering commences. You'll find that the flux works better and the solder will just flow really nicely. You can also see the difference between the freshly cleaned wagon and the tarnished coach. It's a completely different colour. JB.
  3. Hi Colin, Only just found this thread, and it's definitely coming along. May I say the etches are absolutely filthy, and I'm surprised that anything is sticking to the brass at all. Can I recommend you get a bottle of a product called Barkeepers Friend. It's sold at large Sainsburys, and probably Amazon as well. Its a powder product. Mix some with a little water so its almost a runny paste consistency, and use with a toothbrush to really scrub it or for more delicate areas a 1" paint brush. This will clean the brass beautifully, and give you a much cleaner surface for the flux to work on. You would also do well to use the 145 solder that you have as your main solder. Carrs products Do a 100 degree flux that can be used for the details if necessary, but I never never used anything other than 145 for all of my previous builds except where soldering white metal castings of course. If you would i'd be more than happy to take some pictures and show you the difference between badly tarnished brass and clean enough to solder with. JB.
  4. Well thankfully the footplate is now the correct length. As mentioned previously this was bad housekeeping whilst I was still working in TurboCad Mac Pro, a hateful program. Found some of that Finney7 solder. Think it may run out tomorrow though.. I tried to find a way to make curving the footplate easier, mostly by putting half etch markings on the underside of the footplate to tell the builder where to start and stop the curves in relation to the curves on the valance. I think it certainly helped a bit but not sure how much in relation to the dimples that have resulted in the top edge of the footplate. I'll find out if they're still visible after painting.
  5. Etch V2.0 has arrived and looking much better. Building starts in earnest to get it together before the Bristol O Gauge show in a weeks time. Just need to find my work bench underneath all the bits of Etch V1.0.. JB.
  6. Can you find a piece of tube the same size as the boiler and wrap a piece of grit paper around the tube, then gently slide the castings back and forth. This will take down the thickness of the flange but preserve the shape at the same time. JB.
  7. Fair play for going 'in at the deep end'. I recall a distant relative once built his first 3.5" gauge loco, what did he build? a 9F! One tip if I may before you get to the valve gear. A lot of people are going to suggest that you use bits of oily paper to stop the valve gear soldering solid. Might I suggest looking at the chemical blackening method. Chemical black will prevent metal from getting soldered, and so its perfect for getting tight but movable valve gear. JB.
  8. Hi, if you're coming to Bristol, pop in to the Love Lane layout to say hi. I'll either be on the layout or near to the Scale7 test track... not that its much of a test track, its just a few loops. JB.
  9. Well its been a while, and an awful lot longer than i'd hoped, but i really wanted to make sure version 2.0 is as correct as I can make it. I hope there isn't a need for a version 3.0! Probably 60-70 adjustments/modifications/improvements in all. It will be a much better kit now. Artwork sent off today, and so I hope to have a built, though not necessarily running loco for placement on the Love Lane layout at the Bristol O Gauge Group show in a couple of weeks time. I have decided I will need to draw up the tender for the D16 as no one has yet designed the particular version required. JB.
  10. Hi Richard, looking good. Purely fyi, you would be able to tell left or right have drive by which side the large ejector exhaust pipe is, that travels the length of the boiler into the smokebox. JB.
  11. Just found a very old photo of mine if it helps with any details. Great pic shot by Heather Kavanagh. JB.
  12. Yes, ideally the motion bracket wanted to be located without the wheels in place to find the locating holes.. JB.
  13. I seem to recall now looking at your pictures that a bit more of the motion barackets need filing away before the footplate sits at the right level. Just something to keep an eye on when you get to that point. JB.
  14. If anyone goes down this road again, would it be worth using 4mm chairs from one of the build your own track manufacturers?
  15. I'm going to come clean, and I show this with the massive caveat that this is still the faulty etch with a through etch rather than rear etch, so I got the curves as close as I could without having something to truly form against, hence the wonky footplate in the shot of the cab. The foot plate is too long by around 3.5mm which puts everything out of kilter, though I have found the error easy to fix). Also the shelf that the smokebox sits on is too low. Took me a while to find out why, but looks like the frames aren't deep enough around that area, and that has passed through into affecting one or two other areas (this may take a little longer as I need to keep an eye out for a knock-on effect). JB.
  16. One of my pet hates with buffer beams is sometimes having to guess where they need to be in relation to valances, especially when they don't reach all the way to the edges of the footplate like those on the D16. Tack them down, check, add heat to remove because they're not quite centre, solder spreads, even more to clean up before you can reattach and try again. These are self locating! JB.
  17. Well, plenty going on with the loco... This is still a speed build rather than a beauty pageant. Shown in the pictures is the ashpan, smokebox, boiler barrel and firebox wrapper. Also I have put together one of the lead driving wheel splashers. JB.
  18. Superb!! should be extremely happy with that! JB.
  19. Thankyou..! It's only years of building lots of kits and working out how I would design things better though. JB.
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