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    Honeysuckle Cottage, Guelph, Ontario, Canada

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  1. Simon: where did you get the painting and the poster of the patrician?
  2. For 2 points a CDU shouldn't be necessary. And note that one CDU should do both points at the same time. A CDU will limit current flow if your push buttons stick. (We've had that happen -- I think it was due to over-enthusiastic soldering.) A CDU takes a bit of time to recharge. There are point switches out there -- TriAng lever frame ones e.g. -- that in one pass electrify the current position then do the reversed position. The CDU discharges the first time then does nothing useful the second. I think there is a switch where you push the lever against a spring to make contact and then it returns slightly breaking the contact. I have two CDUs but only use one on my layout.
  3. Using a toggle switch is not the best idea. A two-way toggle switch will leave the power on to the point motor and eventually either burn it out or melt it and start a fire. There are specially made switches with passing contacts or other arrangements. Or push buttons. For wiring the point motors, there is a common connection on one side -- it may be 2 connectors or just one. From both motors goes to one side of the power supply. On the other side of the point motor, one connector at each end. This goes to the switch or push button which is then connected to the other side of the power supply. You should use the side of he power supply that says AC out or Accessories; not the same pins as go to the track. (Not the end that goes to the wall.) To control both motors together, tie the second set of wires together (two sets) and one set to each out on the switch. I suggest just twisting them togther to start with until you're sure that you have the right ends joined. Probably the two far ends and the two near ends. I won't talk about Capacitor Discharge unless you have one.
  4. My local chain book store has 2 copies of MRJ that say the next issue is expected on Feb. 20.
  5. Another forum. https://www.bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8523 This thread is mostly current pix from Hamilton, Ontario. The rest of the forum is North American based.
  6. Cabooses (Vans on CPR) were offices for the non-driving crew. They were responsible for any extra work required, such as protecting the rear end when the train was unexpectedly stopped with flags, lanterns, and torpedoes. If there was a problem a crewman from each end would walk the train to locate it. To go into a siding the headend crew would turn the switch and the caboose crew would turn it back. Now some poor schmuck has to stand at the switch until the train goes by and then walk back to the locomotive. The caboose had no normal braking responsibility (all cars were "fitted") but could open the airline if necessary. Before radios this was used to signal the head end crew. Up until middle of last century (?) the caboose would also be a dormitory for crews that had to spend the night someplace else. "Foreign" rail cars are common. The railways like to keep traffic that originates on their line on it as far as possible. There are also dedicated cars on fixed routes -- there used to be some Union Pacific cars that carried aircraft wings from just outside Toronto to someplace else. CP and CN run "parallel" routes across the country, but often quite a distance apart.
  7. I don't find the flange comes off that easily. Fortunately, I have a lot of the other type. I bought a set of metric drills (hard to find here) and used the 2.0mm or 1.9mm drill. I do have a few dimples on the cover of the axle box now. I had the same problem with some Slater's kits where the top hat wouldn't go far enough into the hole.
  8. An old Amercan article on this recommended using mirrors with the reflective surface at the front. I don't know where you get them. Two mirrors at right angles will reflect an object back but on the other side -- a car will seem to be reflected in the other lane.
  9. I have a theory that most railway accidents require 3 separate mistakes. Discuss. One of the mistakes is often management skimping on spending for safety features.
  10. There already was a locomotive named Queen Elizabeth (46221) after her mother.
  11. I'm working on an Airfix Brake van. It's labelled a limited run. The parts are all bright red. Lots of the parts have the marks from the ejector rods -- even bits with the planking. It has the same painting instructions as the brown plastic version so it may remain to run in the bright red.
  12. Unexpected task this afternoon. SWMBO managed to spill a sticky medical drink on the computer desk which then spread to the floor and other surfaces. Also various shelves under the desk. We think most of it has been soaked up and washed off. The floor behing the desk is the cleanest it's been in 5 years.
  13. I still have not used mine for checking mains voltage.
  14. I probaby use my meter more for checking batteries than anything else.
  15. I dug out another old kit -- Airfix Brake Van. The price tag says $ .98. There is a bit on the box that says "Limited Production". I can't find my previous build -- done about 55 years ago -- but I think it was brown. This one is in bright red plastic. I think the directions are the same as they say to paint the underframe, buffer heads and roof but don't mention the rest. Well, I did manage to find a slide of the interior of a similar van with my uncle and his friend in it, so I know the inside is a kind of white colour. I'm going for Humbrol Ivory. The other bits will be Polly S Boxcar Red and some of their blacks. These are getting on a bit now and the company that bought Floquil/PollyS and discontinued them has been bought by another and discontinued. PollyS used to make a line of Dungeons and Dragons paint which included a line of greys. I liked using Gargoyle Grey on rooves. Day nearly over. High near 32. We went out to hear our local group the Elderly Brothers "rehearse" (concerts are verboten) but came home because of the heat. (Have I noted that we are in a community with a minimum age of 55 and a median much higher?)
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