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Everything posted by 54Strat

  1. I'm lucky enough to work on the LEGO video games, one of the designers here has this... https://www.flickr.com/photos/bricktrix/albums/72157626190876621 Also, as well as designing the LEGO Caterham Set, he has few of these.... Loads more and other stuff on his Flickr.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/bricktrix/albums He's probably on this forum, not sure of his username.
  2. As it happens, I've just completed 2 x 2mm Chivers kits. Transfers are from Railtec (#3701 - Parcel Van Details Tare / XP / Length) though this seems to be omitted from their website in the 2mm Section and there's no 4mm version as you've found. Incidentally, the 7mm Blue Parcels CCT transfer sheet is different from the 2mm sheet I received, the main difference being no Express Parcels on the 2mm version It would be worth contacting them as I'm sure they'll print a 4mm version of either. I also did a custom sheet for PMV / NQV for a couple or Dapol 2mm repaints (below), you're welcome to a copy of the artwork . Paul
  3. Been a while, but I'm still plodding on.. An old Farish Guv. General muck applied then removed with cotton bud and thinners, then a light spray with an airbrush. Next are some more CCT's out of the paint shop. Above are a pair of Chivers CCTs (awaiting buffers). I used a cheap primer that was darker than Halfords and it's left the BR Blue (Railmatch) a bit darker as a result. The transfers are a mixture of RailTec and my own. Above a repainted Dapol CCT (Railmatch Faded Blue with a dusting of Br Blue) and my own custom transfers. Not really that happy with the colour, but it'll add a bit more variation to the parcel's train and shouldn't look too bad when fully weathered. Paul
  4. This is quite inspiring, a couple of Mexican brothers built a vehicle and explored the country's abandoned railways by travelling on them. http://www.thisiscolossal.com/2014/06/modern-ruins-an-artist-homemade-vehicle-traverses-the-abandoned-railways-of-mexico/ http://www.seft1.net/
  5. There's a breakdown company near me called 'A55 Recovery', not really a pun and but very unintentionally funny.
  6. I bet some of these will get used, if they aren't already... I'll bagsy 'Bonnie Tiler' http://www.buzzfeed.com/robinedds/glorious-shop-puns-youd-only-find-in-britain? So how many more are out there? Paul
  7. Funny, I mailed then a day or so back and got no reply. Paul
  8. Hi Ben, Hoping this does come to fruition, it really would be a real shame if the outcome is that the NGS drop such present day image initiatives. The numbers are disappointing and thanks for letting us know these figures So putting my money where my mouth is, I've mailed the shop about the yellow one for the same reasons in my previous post and the same reason suggested at the end of your post; to support the Society in this agreeable direction and hopefully grow this initiative. Paul
  9. Thread Resurrection! Weathering is Railmatch Frame dirt on the frames, Roof Soot washed into the panels and some rust powders tickled here and there. There's some more work to do on them, probably a light dusting to tone them down when I get my airbrush out but here they are for now. Dapol CCT, repainted faded blue and home made transfers and featuring a droopy coupling. A project started just before Dapol's re-issue. Isn't it always the way? Dapol engineers fish vans, not as garish as the mint version. Farish Vans Dapol Gunpowder Van Paul
  10. Has it been that long? A couple more 16T wagons, missing the coupling hooks. Some 24.5Ts, need to add the door bangers and coupling hooks. And some 21T bodies, I'm just about to start the chassis. This time I used paint for the white stripes instead of decals as per previous advice, and although I may have got one or two a bit thick, I think they look much better as do the trimmed down decals. And just seen I've not painted the brake lever handles white. Paul
  11. 1.6mm is the width, 18-24k is the kerf, and max 5000 rpm
  12. Hi Carl, I think there's a big difference in not wanting and not needing I'm sure we've all bought stuff we didn't need, but wanted Paul
  13. This is a really positive initiative and I would say that Ben and the NGS are to be commended in this venture. From the recent criticism the society has received, this addresses some of these issues in an innovative way and gives members the ability to have an active role in deciding which one from this batch will make it to production. Bravo. I'll take a yellow one and if anyone's interested I don't really have a requirement for one but who said I have to stick to what I model? And another reason I'll buy this is because I'd like this type of member participation to continue to the next project and the project after that where there might be something that really suits me. Isn't this part of what of being a member is about? Anyways, to expand on this concept of choice, as an idea how does an unpainted MK2 or MK1 sound, sold with a paint guide and decals for a particular livery and prototype? This would provide an opportunity to provide more variations and encourage a more hands approach to modelling? The NGS already sells an undecorated Stove R (I have two btw, but no need for them, lol), this would be the same but with decals. Paul
  14. Though not warm white, numerous brands of poundshops do these. I suppose you could paint them cream coloured as they don't get hot, it should be ok.
  15. Recently built a bed with a circular saw and discovered they're fantastic to use with simple jigs. I built one jig for notching and to mitre the scaffold planks I used and it was as good as a compound sliding mitre saw shown here For sheet work, instead of a straight edge from a clamp I made a simple jig made from scrap sheet as shown here... This gives you perfect alignment and no offset measuring faffing about you'd get from just clamping a straight edge. Paul
  16. I've got a sheet of 2mm Slaters and I've not used it, I was disappointed with the 'dimples' which gave overscale mortar courses. But like Kris mentioned, if it's whitewashed then it'll probably look ok. Paul
  17. A lot of 2mm guys use 4mm scale brickwork. From what I've seen, the brain is quite happy overlooking this fact and it looks fine. I suppose as long as you're consistent in this approach it might be an idea, as butting 2mm bricks up to 4mm will destroy any illusion. On the other hand, I'm not so sure that 2mm scale needs so much relief in bricks, however would scoring in line with the parallel mortar courses be an idea on some standard 2mm brickpaper? Paul
  18. Of course, but I think the point I was making is that there is still an awful lot of work to do to get an accurate plan, whether it's hand drawn or laid out in Adobe Illustrator. As a 3rd party trying to decipher another's layout from a few photos can take a lot of time in order to understand it and then authentically communicate it to a reader. For an owner to draw his/her own plan, skills aside, it's simply a matter of putting pen to paper.
  19. Having drawn quite a few track plans for a magazine, you'd be surprised at the amount of research and effort goes into producing a plan of even the smallest shunting plank. Often you are only supplied with a couple of owner's own photographs, which inevitably leads to layout errors on which to base your drawing. Believe it or not, even vital information such as layout dimensions can be left to the imagination, never mind such details as brand of track used (useful for geometry layout). I've even deduced a plan size from known propriety buildings and scaled accordingly. Once I had a hand drawn detailed and scaled plan, however, the time saved in research was spent replicating the expectations of the fine details. Lead times and deadlines aside, then you have the owner and the magazine to please, and the feedback revision loop to prepare drafts, and alter and amend the plan's scale, accuracy and style. For a small layout with average complexity, I would say it takes about a full days work to get something approaching the standard of the mainstream magazines (track, baseboard, detailed infrastructure, annotation, greenery, roads, trees, buildings, textured and coloured). Then about a half day to revise and amend. If I didn't volunteer my services, I would charge a very generous £17.50 (average rates) an hour and for 12 hours work, so we're looking at around £210 a plan. Who can afford that? Ok, it's aimed at the same quality as in the popular magazines but still, even for 6 hours work for a lower quality (b&w, track, baseboard, blocked out infrastructure) it's still over a £100. Even if services are free, the time taken to produce quality plans would scare most designers for a suite of 15 or so track plans, that's a month's work that is. Obviously, the quality and time are scalable if costs are eliminated, software such as Anyrail (excellent imo) will help but still, it's a big thankless task to provide the illustrations for a show guide. I really do salute those who do take the time to produce or include plans in their guides. Paul Btw, if you do want to pay for a quality plan, I'm open to offers
  20. People look for different things and as everyone knows pleasing the masses is impossible. Right now I have a temporary oval of track on a laminate floor that I thoroughly enjoy. If I photographed it and posted it here no one would be interested to see it and I wouldn't be surprised. I wouldn't want to see it either. However when I'm of a mind, I'll get down to track level and my imagination fills in the gaps, it fills in the scenery, the backdrop, the smoke, the noise, the passengers and the drivers. Isn't this what creative photography is best at, realising our imagination? I'm sure the clutter that surrounds all of our layouts remains invisible to the owners but not to onlookers and photography is an opportunity to try to show what the layout appears to look like from the perspective of the owner's imagination. So I'm all for it, after all isn't it just an extension of what we try communicate what we enjoy about the hobby? When I see kettles rattling past or diesels straining, I'm surely not the only one who imagines smoke and clag? It's just nice to see it realised. Paul
  21. It seems if you leave one's expectations at the door, one could enjoy it all day Paul
  22. Thanks to the team for putting on a great family show. The free kids admission was a bonus, though I would have happily paid extra as the free loan of a child's step saved my arms and back from what is usually a painful experience hoisting a six year old up and down all the time. And Thomas was great, I even had a go. Funny to hear quite a few passing derisive comments about it, ironically some people really are above playing trains it seems. The free brass scrap samples from Worsley Works will really help me hone my soldering skills, so thanks for that, it was a really nice thing to do. So apart from getting squirted by water (Timpdon Lake , I thoroughly enjoyed it. Lot's to see and even though a few layouts needed a bit of coaxing here and there, it's nice to see these imperfections on show as it reflects my own experience. I'm sure the operator on the 'Triang Minic Motorways' layout didn't stop for a minute as watching him trying to keep up with stalled vehicles was just as amusing as the speed the things whizzed around. Top stuff, and just added to what I and my lad thought was the most enjoyable exhibit there. Really nice to see Albion Yard in the flesh at last, those trees are fantastic and one of the few layouts I can say are much better in real life than is recorded in the modelling press. My lad declined a offer of a go, is PMP mad offering the controller to a six year old? Nope, just a reflection of his generosity. Thanks again. Paul
  23. Thanks very much, one bought and on it's way to me. I looked at gear and bearing pullers but they seemed to big, this looks just right. Paul
  24. Hi, I've got some farish wheels (397-410 Axles with 3 holes wagon wheels) and I wish to swap the axles with ones from the 2mm association ones (2-027 N Gauge profile wagon 3 hole disk wheelsets on 12.25mm Association standard axles). I need to pull the wheels off the farish axles, would anyone know the best way to go about this? thanks Paul
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