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Rabs

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  1. I stick one of these on the tube: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110x-Liquid-Dispenser-Solder-Paste-Adhesive-Glue-Dispensing-Needle-Tip-11Types-/252202844560?hash=item3ab8760190:g:H9cAAOSwwE5WZV9C or these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60pcs-TT-Blunt-Glue-Liquid-Dispenser-Dispensing-Needle-Plastic-Tapered-Tips-/191929551814?hash=item2cafe48bc6:g:Wv4AAOSwARZXk4eO At a few pence each I just replace them when they get blocked.
  2. Sounds like you've got a solution but another utility program to be aware of is MeshLab (http://www.meshlab.net/). It has some useful features and can import/export a wide range of file formats. It's a useful one to add to the toolbox.
  3. I don't think that is a particularly important feature if you are printing small objects. If you had a print that was going to take hours and lots of expensive material then it might be a concern but most small scale models will only take an hour or two and use a few pence of filament so it's not the end of the world if you run out and you won't run out very often with small prints. Features like reliable bed levelling, heated bed and a good quality extruder hot end are all much more important to good FDM printing in my opinion. However, my concern is that the OP might have unrealistic expectations of the print quality they will get from an FDM printer so I'm hoping that they will come back and give some more detail about what they want to achieve.
  4. Hi, I didn't spot this thread when it started. Can you both give some more detail about what you want to achieve with a 3d printer, in what scale and what level of detail you hope to achieve? A <£1000 3d printer will be very good at some things but completely unsuitable for others so we need a bit more information to provide good advice.
  5. If it's a very small hole that won't get handled much then I recommend tippex. It fills gaps really well and is much easier to remove the excess and smooth than milliput or similar. However, it won't be as strong so don't use it if it's in a place where it might get bashed.
  6. JBWeld is another that works well on steel. make sure to roughen the surfaces with sandpaper before using any epoxy on metals and you'll get a much stronger joint.
  7. I think we need a little more information on what you are trying to achieve. Can you show a picture of the parts and how they go together? Does it need to be hand/dishwasherable? What temperatures will it be used at? Will the join area be in contact with food? (most glues aren't food-safe)
  8. Can't speak for why Green Park/Queen Square was changed but the logic for changing the GW station seems fairly clear to me: It could have been quite ambiguous to have simply 'Bath' on a timetable with more than one station in Bath, particularly when the station in question was the smaller of the two. Anyway, I'm getting off topic
  9. It became Bath Spa in 1949, if my research is correct. I guess that it might have been to do with consolidation of timetables in the early years after nationalisation. Multiple Bath stations appearing in the same timetables was probably thought to cause confusion that hadn't occurred before when they were run by independent companies.
  10. If anyone reading this wants very, very thin wire then search for 'enamel wire' or 'magnet wire'. Instead of an extruded PVC sheath it has an enamel coating, which means that the insulation can be much thinner.
  11. Good to know, thanks. Yes, I do get through the carbide drills quite quickly when I'm doing PCB work compared to drilling plastics.
  12. Looks like it, when the second one comes on from the right of screen you can see the thin black linkage under the floor beneath the tram's steps moving back and forth in time with the horse's legs. It appears to be driven by a crank from the rear wheel.
  13. Didn't Trotsky use to be in that picture?
  14. In fact, if you bend it far enough you can make a hook to carry the calipers with. Just a shame that it stops them closing fully.
  15. Out of curiosity, what's the reason for using a paxolin board instead of a standard fibreglass core? I'm making some of my track with FR4 and am now worried I might be missing something that will come back to bite me later.
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