robmcg

Thanks for that reply Tony, I don't think your preferred medium of enjoyment will die anytime soon, people love making things, and your skills and may I say character make such things the very essence of life. Your 'can do' approach is very refrreshing, and I can relate to it utterly after many years seeing people recovering from injury. Thus I look forward to your latest 9F with full paint.. It will give me an opportunity to show one of 'mine'.

I do not steal others' artwork or photography, and claim it as my own. I sometimes take sections of public domain photos, like track or smoke, and use them as templates for my own painting, which is where my skill are I think quite good, that is, painting with a computer mouse and software like Paintshop Pro. Not unlike making stencil over a photo and freehanding a painting from that. Is it fair to describe my own computer painting over a small piece of a manipulated distorted re-sized re-coloured google image as misappropriated when it is not being used for any financial purpose whatsoever, and bears only superficial resemblance to a photo I didn't take myself.. Clearly we differ. Tony and Andy York are pretty strict about respecting copyright, and I respect them. My own late father was a prolific author and publisher so I am not unaware of the value of copyright. Your comparing of my usual computer artwork to the theft of your own commercial work for someone else's commercial benefit leaves me having to just politely disagree. Back to modelling please.

Hi Chris, I have a query about the new website. I have bought hundreds maybe thousands of pounds worth of engines off you in years gone by but the new website does not mention VAT for me, living as I do in New Zealand, I am not liable for this cost. Just yesterday I tried to buy a new V2 and received an Email including postage to NZ, fine, but I was required to pay the full amount including about 40 Pounds VAT. This happened a couple of months ago and I simply gave up. Can you explain why the website ignores VAT for customers outside the UK/EU? Cheers, Robbie.

I hesitate to reply but would like to point out to those who find RTR boring that many who enjoy Tony's excellent and wide-ranging thread are somewhat limited in modelling ability, and derive great pleasure from it. No intention of causing any argument whatsoever, but it takes all my skill to open a box, place an engine on a diorama and photograph it, while having huge admiration for the craftsmanship and skill others show here, I must accept that this is primarily about modelling, not purchasing and photographing RTR. For what it's worth I have been paralysed for 47 years after a bike crash and serious multiple injuries, with only one working hand. It shouldn't make any difference to appreciation of models, photography, or the quality of these things, but may add a little perspective to those who find my pictures a bit tiresome, there are certainly other places where they are shown and enjoyed, and I think some readers of Wright Writes enjoy photography too. In fact, good photography is a lovely way to enhance craftsmanship, whether it be scratch-built, kit-built. or the work of RTR designers and assembly workers. I'll leave it at that, thanks for looking at my pics regardless.

I must admit I am hoping for something special from Hornby with the new 9F. When I think of the standard achieved with the A2s and Clans and other recent large steam I transpose this to the engineering samples already shown and it bodes well for a 'state-of-the-art' model. Will the next items of interest be livery samples? Also I think there are enough people left in my age-group (b.1950) who actually experienced the last 15 years of BR steam and that of course includes the 9F as a very much a 'must have' model. That said, it will still have compromises brought about by 00 gauge, thick wheel profiles, type 2 curves, maybe type 3 or 4?, plastic deflectors, fragility, assembly and so on...

Good evening Tony, or morning... With the nature of scale modelling being forefront, and I did rather over-do my reaction to your invitation regarding 9F photos, here is an example of just how well Bachmann did with their 2006 version, in this case a Modelzone limited edition, of the preserved Bluebell Railway 9F 92240 in weathered BR condition. I photographed it in its normal condition then superimposed a photo of the wheels and motion and injector pipes over the relevant parts. How hard it is to replicate railways in model form! The textures of metal on prototypes will be forever and elusive effect! Standard condition as supplied by Bachmann, detail pack parts added. Wheels and motion from prototype, about 90 degrees rotated alas, but the comparison is interesting. What a challenge for modellers and manufacturers to achieve this 'look', for want of a better word. I agree Tim does beautiful work on Gilbert's Peterborough North locomotive fleet.

Well, that's a very dangerous suggestion. Allow me therefore to show two recent pictures I have made, showing the finest large steam engines ever made in Britain, both designed by Robert Riddles. I used to hang around steam sheds when I was 12 years to 16 or so, when steam more-or-less finished here in NZ and also in the many English magazines I used to read. The Riddles 8P finally made good after miraculous restoration, and the Riddles 9F, each repesented here by Hornby and Bachmann respectively. With Kylchap chimney and exhaust, and a correct ashpan, this engine can flatten Shap and Ais Gill like no other. Going beyond the 9F theme for a moment, and well away from the ECML, is this lovely engine... a rebuild of course but arguably the last type of express steam engine built in Britain... with Light Pacifics too of course. Edit; back to the foolhardy invitation to show Bachmann 9Fs, I must congratulate Bachmann for their model, as it provides such a marvellous basis for pictures. Factory-weathered 92233 Factory-weathered 92185 a proper ECML engine, even if Swindon-built.. Annesley Great Central , I think, ... 92070 Crewe-built in 1956 for the ER Seen above with 'real' wheels but still with Bachmann body. A TMC-weathered 92077, Crewe-built for LMR. Finally a long way from Little Bytham, 92245 emerges from Devonshire Tunnel on the S&D... 1-in-50 and twelve on, keep those wondows closed. And a chocolate-box-clean S&D engine, below, was 92220 ever this clean? Apologies for late additions.

Thanks Tony, I won't show my large number of 9F photos since my post was mainly curiosity regarding the new Hornby version... and of course many of my Bachmann versions are weathered. Nobody appears to have noticed that I showed 92192 a page back paired with a BR1C Midland Region tender, a grave misdemeanour, my only excuse is that the Ebay seller offered the model at a very sharp price. The compromises we make!

Another aspect of designing scale models to go around approximately 18"-radius curves has been the Bachmann 9F... which although in theory capable of going around type 2 set track curves is far happier on type 3 in my experience.. I am curious about Hornby's new 9F and whether it will have a scale wheelbase, brakes between drivers, and whether or not this is indeed possible with standard or typical 00 flanges. Perhaps Hornby will finally end the requirement to negotiate type 2 curves? There are photos about of engineering samples of the new Hornby 9F but I haven't seen any photos with brake gear installed. As I understand it pretty much all 00 models of 9Fs involve compromise in driving-wheel spacing and geometry. Here below is one of my Bachmann 9Fs which shows how well this RTR model solves the problem... rather well in my opinion. I know that this thread is primarily concerned with model-making but I like to think that our RTR model-developers are also 'making models'. Also for those interested the photo is from a full frame Canon EOS RP with a mid-range RF 35mm macro lens, three exposures joined for sharpness, Not quite your top Nikon lens... but enjoyable.

For those who are considering a V2 but have not yet made the leap.... here is newly-arrived in NZ V2 60847 I confess I had been concerned about the rods and motion being a little too bright. I need not have worried! Photo by my brother Trevor and I have added background only, the model has not been fiddled except in tone and contrast etc.

I dug out a rather old model of the Hornby BR 71000 'Duke of Gloucester' the other day, mainly to try out a new digital full frame camera. (Canon EOS RP). I had thought of a more recent 'up-to-date' model but had not photographed the DoG in this form, full lining 1960 version. I was impressed, especially with details on, and here it is. An undervalued model in my opinion, rather like the P2. Then as is my habit I touched up some details, around the front and firebox mostly, and got this. I really think this model is undervalued Do readers think there are any others which might qualify ?

If you insist on an ER 9F which were to my mind the most sadly underutilised 9Fs of all... not in their early years on the ECML but in so many being scrapped before even a first grade A overhaul. Beautiful stuff and much-liked by crews. And so impressive! Although why one would blow off on shed is beyond explanation...

What a contrast to my picture of early 9Fs on their first allocation, the Ebbw Vale ore trains... I look forward to seeing the finished article. No problems with wheelbase accuracy were encountered in creating this picture. Sometimes I graft (copy/paint) prototype driving wheels and motion on... it's mostly the subtleties of flanges and wheel treads and spokes and rod dimensions which make the difference, and as you point out Tony the general pipework was pretty impressive on the real' engines. Cheers

They'll be able to see any number of mistakes if you let me edit it! It's terrifying how post-shot editing has become the norm for many kinds of photos these days, portraits, real estate, 'news', 'facts', historical records, ,.... unethical at least when editing is not divulged.

Ah yes. Why did I forget that. I'm wondering if the catalogue might turn up sooner in a NZ retail store than taking a chance with a UK purchase?

And don't they come up well! This above about 100 Pounds on Ebay. The upcoming Hornby model means that our cup runneth over, for RTR.... and Hornby has recently done so well with such as the A2s that it may well be a tour de force. Of course weathering and some renumbering and tender swapping will be in order. I admire the standards of modelling which go into RTR and am continually amazed.

Only 5 ? A bare minimum is 10, and I'll still buy one of the Hornby models if they sustain recent standards of detail, as per the A2s and others. Could anyone perhaps scan the catalogue picture of the Hornby 9F from the catalogue, either one, so that we antipodeans still waiting for a colour image may drool over the prospect? I did do this colouring of the pre-production model. and of course it's a fair way to go before we get to weather our models. 92116 being a Bachmann version.

Photo-stacking or focus-stacking does not inevitably mean sharpness everywhere, and I agree that composition, lighting and sometimes even a degree of distortion play a big part in making an attractive evocative picture. I often use two pics for a 3/4 engine portrait so I don't need the extremes of high-number f-stop and super-long open shutter, each with its compomises like electronic 'noise' in the sensor and minute camera movement. Many ways to achieve similar goals, certainly. In playing with a couple of new Canon RF lenses in the last week, stimulated by TW, I have achieved astonishing sharpness and clarity, but I wouldn't want it over the entire frame. Now if only I had placed 46252 on a model scene as good as Little Bytham! This pic is far from finished.

Postscript to the above. I too will be be very interested in Mike Wild's photos of Little Bytham. A good day it ought to be.

Talking of giving credit where it is due to creators and artists, I wish to thank you again Tony for giving us such superb photos and also telling us in a broad sense how you work. Your mastery of the Nikon Df and the 35mm and 60mm micro lenses, plus the lighting and composition, has given me at least an idea or two for my Canon camera photography and computer 'painting'. Yes, having taken the plunge and bought a full-frame Canon EOS RP mirrorless camera and a couple of lenses I can now announce my first finished 'full frame' photo. The shop accidentally supplied an RF 24-240mm zoom lens which is ridiculous at the long end for my tabletop scenes, but was at least sharp at the 55mm level. Pic below. I have enjoyed the discussion about sharpness and the replicating of the scenes of steam railways, which as we know were often not very sharp in the distance or foreground or both. I agree absloute sharpness at all parts of the frame is not always very pleasant, but won't go into composition and 'effect', this being so often subjective. I am enthused by the prospect of creating more of my own style of picture. They are not strictly photographs, since I bend, distort, paint, add, remove things until I have what for me looks good and evokes the feelings I had in the 50s and 60s. I have a bit of experience with cameras both amateur and professional, but only up to 6x6 format. I have little knowledge of, but great admiration for the skills people like Eric Treacy or W J V Anderson. My father knew Derek Cross very well in the 50s, I used to play with his piles of 6x6 contact prints when I was 6 years old! I don't even recall being told off. Enough! I just wanted to thank you Tony for showing again what a Nikon Df full frame and a top quality Nikon micro lens can do. Here is the very first of my Canon RP pics, with my rough additions. I have solved Hornby's BR Brunswick Green too. Who me, colour-blind? I recall Larry Goddard's versions of BR green and generally think it depends a great deal on the monitor one uses, amongst other things. Cheers, and what a nice Hornby model. EOS RP mirrorless with RF 24-240 lens at 55mm F29 at 30 secs ISO100. Robbie

Thanks David, It is always interesting to see how other people find their way to good photos, and I appreciate your full answer. I do very similar things but with different Canon Cameras, and I use Windows-based programs and Paintshop Pro 6 (really old program) to acheive the kinds of depth of field you have from your G12. I started with an SX120 from memory about 2004 anf then SX130 or 150 I forget which all these were excellent in their day, then around 2012 I bought a half-frame EOS-M which unsurprisingly had less depth of field but more detail and general image quailty. I experimented wih an adaptor and good-quality EF and EF-S lenses, but couldn't find a good combination, and learned by myself to do focus stacking by copy-pasre rather than layering ... my stacking is done tking several shots with different focus points and simply selecting the sharp parts of one to copy and past onto the less-sharp bits of another, using slight re-sizing of donor or recipient if necessary. So I stayed with the EOS-M 'kit' lens an 18-55mm zoom, which is about 24-85mm in 35mm equivalence I think. Odd how we all find different ways to achieve the same end.. Last week I decided to research full frame cameras like Tony Wight's Nikon Df , but Canon versions, and on Friday bought an EOS RP with a 24-105mm zoom and also a straight 50mm. All good so far. The advertising for the 24-105mm said it will focus down to 5" but that is disingenuous, it will do that manually at 24mm wih lots of manually-set parmeters but only in the middle of the frame, ... the rest of the picture is fuzzy, no good at all for railway scenes. Both lenses will only focus down to 11" too far away to get that 'real engine' perspective, so I am looking at a macro lens. but not before trying a lot of angles and methods with these current 'cheap' normal lenses (about UKP250-400 each). The 'good' lenses for full frame mirrorless cameras are up to UKP2,600... not a very wise purchase when you are like me just experimenting! Full frame does give incredible sharpness as Tony's pictures show, and in his case he has found that elusive depth of field with very small aperures on top micro lenses. Nikon call these lenses 'micro' everyone else calls them 'macro', don't ask me why. Standard lenses on full frame 35mm format require very small apertures like F36 which in turn requires good light and long shutter-open times, to get anything like acceptable deoth of field, so image stabilisation is a good thing, I lost two photos a fortnight ago to blurring from what turned out to be the Tongan volcano about a thousand likometres away, I thought it was faulty sensor. But I am rambling. Here is one of my first photos with the EOS RP and 24-105mm set to 55mm and F29, 30 secs. It is becoming a standing joke for me to have a pair of tender wheels askew! I have cararacts, pretty bad in one eye, so often don't see detail until after taking photos. Quite a long way to go yet to get the kind of atmosphere I can sometimes get as in ths below. Canon EOS-M... and Hornby's underrated 'Duke'. Neither are quite Haymarket, please forgive me. I think 72000 could be Camden at a stretch. Thanks again for your reply. Robbie.

What a very fine photograph of a stunning model railway. Your influence on many readers Tony must be very great. I have just bought a full frame digital camera and am in the process of finding which lenses and settings might permit me someday to aproach the standard you achieve, the 'gold standard', with your Nikon and various lenses. I have bought, for any who are interested, a full-frame Canon RP 26MP mirrorless camera and a couple of basic lenses, but even these weren't particularly cheap. I do love cameras though, so messing around with them and RTR models will bring much pleasure, and quite probably a degree of bemusement and frustration. Untangling the intricacies of modern camera menu systems and endless options for settings is something of a skill, separating what matters from what doesn't, don't get me started! . Thank you for setting such an admirable standard.

Hi David, I particularly like the perspective in your photo above of the A3 with A4 in the background. I may have asked before, but may I ask what camera and lens and settings you use? I am in the middle of changing my camera and am always interested in the methods used by those who achieve such good results. Of course it's a subject in itself, but I doubt you'll find much agreement about how best to photograph models! A young camera-shop guy I spoke to yesterday was keen to help and advise me but when it came to perspective and close-up stuff he seriously did not 'get it'. FWIW I have mostly used Canon medium format cameras until now and am today buying my first full frame digital (35mm sensor)... and a couple of lenses. And people think model trains are expensive? Try camera lenses! Cheers, Robbie

Back to modelling, sort of. the steps on the Hornby RTR models of the original W1 are a bit of a problem being out-of-gauge, and I have wondered about making a set which would be more like the prototype. I think even the prototpe may have had tight clearances, I can't imagine how tight EM or P4 would be, but here is how Hornby's lovely model looks with a section of a public doman photo grafted on... originally The flangeless rear truck? Hardly notice it guv.

Also log-jams of containers from China to Europe, and all the complexities of container shipping through Rotterdam, and other issues. Australisia also has very inconsistent delivery of goods from China.