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dj_crisp

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    Surrey
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    Diesels in the late 80's and 90's
    Great Eastern Railway Steam

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  1. Mk3 interiors
    Mk3 standard class correct 76 seat layout replacement interiors

    The Great Western Trains HST rake has now been done, new 76 seat interiors in the standard class TS vehicles captured yesterday before the glazing was installed.

    GWT interior v1.jpg

    GWT interior v2.jpg


  2. Point rodding
    Elmore

    Right them, finally time for a progress report on the rodding. 
     

    unfortunately point rodding is one of the items I deal with in my profession, that means there really is no get outs or excuses! I enjoy the thought of doing much more that actually doing it as it’s so small.

     

    So progress. 
     

    the lead off bench which is outside the box is now in place with all the cranks and pulleys in place and all the rods. I had to move the box in the end as it was just too close, luckily that’s not an issue 

     

    82470AA3-9941-4699-BC3A-F1A5E71DBA76.jpeg.45eee7c92f42a2cda5f999b22cc7cc10.jpeg
     

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    C5AF2606-1425-43EE-ABBA-23715A8895BA.jpeg.c07e556385f540bc554526cddc2e544d.jpeg

     

    the point on the departure line has been connected up with all of the FPL parts, for the first section of rodding run it’s 5 rods wide and the modelu rodding rollers really do look good. The closest thing to scale I’ve come across. If it was Wills it would be at least twice as wide

     

    E312995D-F0E9-448C-8765-D0FA7F305B22.jpeg.8b03811b6c78efd87cd797394c21c8d5.jpeg

     

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    The 3 compensators on the run down the hill are also now connected up

     

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    finally the easy bit of straight rodding down the hill to the other points is now in, I had previously done the bottom end so that means we now have a completed roddding run

     

    C1452F20-2105-450E-A077-6CA0A9B3D88F.jpeg.0ee31ef6f7d0b95e83664d77db1366ff.jpeg

     

    The only section now left to do is on the other side of the track going from the box up to the incoming point. I just stuck down the stools and marked the positions of the cranks, hopefully will complete that next week

     

    AFE3A586-08A7-403B-8736-600F19DA59DF.jpeg.7485406b4f2f3896f7b9ef694a91c3f3.jpeg


  3. Concrete
    How do I create a truly realistic concrete effect?

    On the subject of applying lichen spots to concrete, you should be aware that lichen does not colonise an exposed surface for between twenty and thirty years (or more accurately, it does, but it does not start to grow during that period) it then grows at approximately 0.5mm per annum, then slows down after about a century or so. It varies between species of lichen but this technique (lichenometry) is used in archaeology and other disciplines to date material of otherwise indeterminable age. In other words if you are modelling a structure that is less than thirty years old - no lichen spots!


  4. Show me your concrete....
    Show me your concrete....

    Inset_track_line_h.jpg

    (Click to enlarge)

     

    The techniques used for 'concreting' this inlaid track may help; only step 5 onwards is relevant.

     

    1.                      The track is glued to the base with PVA. This example uses Peco Code 100 track and the dimensions given for materials below may be different if you use this technique with other products.

    2.                      Cork tiles or sheets are laid up to the edge of the sleeper ends. The thickness of the cork should be fractionally less than the height of the rail head.

    3.                      Fab Foam (available from Hobbycraft) is cut into 5mm strips and fed into the gap between the rails and the cork tiles. When satisfied with the fit glue down with PVA.

    4.                      Cut a 14mm wide strip of Fab Foam and lay/glue in between the rails leaving an even gap either side of the foam. The foam is extremely flexible which means you can infill between the rails of sharply curved track without any problems.

    5.                      The surface is sprayed with Plasti-kote Suede Touch Projekt Paint which is available from major DIY retailers in an aerosol can.

    6.                      Spraying over the suede paint from a couple of feet away with grey and white primers tones the colour down and introduces a lightly speckled finish.

    7.                      Once dry the joint lines in the concrete are created by using a craft knife to score lines into the cork. This reflects that most concrete is laid in manageable sections by pouring in between wooden shuttering. There is no fixed size for this but take a tape measure to a similar site to that which you are modelling.

    8.                      Your concrete can have random cracks made by further scoring. Using a pencil or black ink pen mark out the score lines made above to enhance the definition.

     

    The same techniques apply to the concrete bridge on Black Country Blues.

     

    Feature23r.jpg

     

     


  5. Another Wooden Wonder - Timber Tracks GWR Signal Box
    Another Wooden Wonder - Timber Tracks GWR Signal Box

    Yes it's another Timber Track's kit, but with a Severn Models Photo-etch interior, some bits from Scale Model Scenery and a Modelu Signalman.

     

    Considering it's size this was quite a lengthy build:

     

    First up building the basic structure, this follows the general layers approach of a Timber Tracks kit.

     

    SignalBox_01.jpg.6e9cb3810675650e6ba09ee9abc91acf.jpg

     

    There's also a nifty jig to help build the staircase.

     

    SignalBox_02.jpg.da7254d858626239e9da39031d5eb0b9.jpg

     

    I also had the challenge of building a photo-etch interior from Severn Models, the basic construction was fiddly, but straight forward.

     

    SignalBox_03.jpg.af4a9c34fb79e7ef3aff8fcfa03f3762.jpg

     

    The interior is what took the time, as it all had to painted, glazing installed, provision for lighting included and of course painting the photo-etch (which for the most part was done by hand)

     

    SignalBox_04.jpg.77ce1fb947a30e0a697aea153354f21e.jpg

     

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    SignalBox_07.jpg.b838676786d97520ddb9fdff669e45a0.jpg

     

    Once this was done, the roof, chimney and gable ends were added.

     

    SignalBox_09.jpg.23239232f4f43b5d83b37a3b24fcfdb9.jpg

     

    The slate roofing was then added and the painting began..

     

    SignalBox_10.jpg.e71671e016f0ed04908e3224f433eafd.jpg

     

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    The guttering and down-pipes were fitted and the painting completed.

     

    SignalBox_12.jpg.4fdc17276d13be456fbf0df6b45e6fbc.jpg

     

    SignalBox_13.jpg.9a412abbd722f8a1ff791b05d697fea0.jpg

     

    The Thornbury Nameplate was then added and the whole structure was weathered, before it big reveal..

     

    SignalBox_14.jpg.562b7866ffc52afa7bc9fdb8a4144a6d.jpg

     

    SignalBox_15.jpg.e1a44d76843caaa85e6523ebaa44d449.jpg

     

    SignalBox_16.jpg.c8418ef9f904394fd14873a00246e595.jpg

     

    SignalBox_17.jpg.5ff904611b90fe2ab0073602311953d7.jpg

     

    And that is definitely all on the buildings front till next year..

     

    Till next time

     

    TBG

     

     

    SignalBox_08.jpg


  6. P4 PRA
    Kernow MRC PRA china clay wagons

    Hi all 

    I’ve just converted mine to P4 

    the w irons are not wide enough and require thinning to allow P4 wheels to fit 

    The brakes have a bar along the bottom to give them the correct spacing, I glue the ends of the rigging down before I thinned the bar to stop it fouling the P4 wheel sets 

    when the W irons are thinned I took about 1mm off, then reamed the bearing out and cleared any plastic away

    test fit the wheel sets and make sure there’s no fouling and there’s it converted to P4 

    cheers

    will take about 30 minutes to do a wagon 

    Roomey 

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