RMweb Gold Donw Posted September 25, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2017 Stationmaster Mike recommended some close foam stuff but that will probably cost a bit. I am not a great believer in floating track as usually once ballasted and fixed with PVA it is pretty solid. I have seen copydex recommended. I have used it to fix things down. It is I assume latex based as it is rather rubbery. If you are building your own track I think a good flat base is ideal. Ply is fine to raise the track a little thick card can be used. To raise it more something thicker with thin ply on top would be good. Mind you my portable layout has the track mounted on polystyrene packing from new flat pack units about 20mm thick as it started as a test track using odd bits of peco track I didn't bother with the ply but to be honest just some decent card would be good enough. I am surprised at Jim's problems with balsa partly I suppose because 2mm is a bit more sensitive and 3/8ths is quite thick so perhaps can compress more I just think someones been a bit heavy handed. you shouldn't need much pressure building track and it is normal to use something to spread the load and keep things flat if placing on weights while the pva sets. Incidently one of my concerns with copydex is whether the rubbery stuff causes bumps anyway. Foam board is to my mind is perhaps too easy to compress so not my first choice although 5mm topped with 2mm ply would be ideal I think. Don 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted September 25, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 25, 2017 For my yard on Sarn I have used well sieved wood ash kindly supplied by a friend and therefore free. I took out the white bits and only used the very fine particles as the yard would probably have been ballasted in the first place with ash anyway. I haven't got around to photographing it but to my mind it looks fine, not too tidy and suitably grey and dirty. I just used a 50/50 water/Resin W mix with a little washing up liquid, applied generously and left to dry out. For the very short length of running line on the layout (a few inches) I am as yet undecided but I am sure that a Cambrian twig would not have used best granite. Indeed, for a while the Cambrian used waste from the Van lead mines, until it was realised what a good abrasive it was and the effect it was therefore having on the rolling stock. I use cork as an underlay, on top of the ply substructure. But then I don't have yards of shoulder to shape. But I agree that once ballasting, wiring etc are complete the track is not very flexible whatever it is laid on. Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted September 25, 2017 Author Share Posted September 25, 2017 Generally speaking, photographs suggest that, at least up to the turn of century, the typical M&GN station showed FB with ash ballast over the sleepers. When replaced by BH, this tends to be accompanied by some form of gravel ballast. The GER seems to have had more BH earlier on in the County, and in station areas this can often be seem with deep ash ballast, but, again, there seems to be a transition to gravel ballast on running lines. This, admittedly brief and unscientific, survey, suggests that the WN's newly upgraded running lines and loop should be chaired BH with gravel ballast, and everywhere else spiked FB rail with ash ballast. But, further information and thoughts welcome! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted September 25, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 25, 2017 (edited) Are the local beaches more sand than shingle? I believe it was the South Eastern's use of Dungeness shingle that was a contributory factor to the blanket 60 mph speed limit - though with the greatest respect, I cannot imagine that that would be a consideration for the West Norfolk. West Norfolk: now as you know, my LNWR wagon modelling is in the diamonds-only period, so I have a surfeit of WNR wagon lettering, should you be interested... Edited September 25, 2017 by Compound2632 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted September 25, 2017 Author Share Posted September 25, 2017 Are the local beaches more sand than shingle? I believe it was the South Eastern's use of Dungeness shingle that was a contributory factor to the blanket 60 mph speed limit - though with the greatest respect, I cannot imagine that that would be a consideration for the West Norfolk. West Norfolk: now as you know, my LNWR wagon modelling is in the diamonds-only period, so I have a surfeit of WNR wagon lettering, should you be interested... Sand, at least Burnham Overy and Holkham, where we used to go. I am assuming the gravel was imported when the mainline was upgraded at the turn of the century. Lettering, now there's a thought! Thank you. I think the WN would have followed the trend to larger initials, following the GE in particular, so c. 1903. That gives me scope to have a few new/newly lettered WN wagons with the large letters, for which the W N of LNWR would be perfect. A sample of the earlier livery below... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold teaky Posted September 25, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2017 (edited) A quick search of the web turned up this description: "Green Scene ballast is made from granulated fruit stones and is then coated with a waterproof plasticised paint. It is therefore lightweight and colour-fast.As it is made from a wood material, damage to wheel flanges is not a problem, and unlike granite, this product will retain its colour even when wetted with PVA and water." Incidentally, it seems they cannot agree on the company name. The above came from the DCC Supplies website and shows pictures of the packaging clearly labelled "Green Scene" yet on their own website they call themselves "Green Scenes". It's playing havoc with my apostrophe sensitivities. Edited September 25, 2017 by teaky 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted September 25, 2017 Author Share Posted September 25, 2017 I do not know the material, but I do know that its colour-fast unlike other ballasts I have tried. Maybe a quick e-mail to them would answer your question? A quick search of the web turned up this description: "Green Scene ballast is made from granulated fruit stones and is then coated with a waterproof plasticised paint. It is therefore lightweight and colour-fast. As it is made from a wood material, damage to wheel flanges is not a problem, and unlike granite, this product will retain its colour even when wetted with PVA and water." Incidentally, it seems they cannot agree on the company name. The above came from the DCC Supplies website and shows pictures of the packaging clearly labelled "Green Scene" yet on their own website they call themselves "Green Scenes". It's playing havoc with my apostrophe sensitivities. Thanks to you both. After Ian's post, I emailed Green Scene(s). Mr Green Scene is one John Lloyd, who sent me a very prompt response from his 'phone: Hi James Thank you for your enquiry It is made from crushed and graded walnut shells Which is then painted with waterproof paint Best regards John That's good customer service, and I look forward to becoming one of his customers in due course. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 (edited) The LBSCR, SER, IoWRys, and I think the LC&D were all shingle users, and the SR persisted with it in these areas until the Sevenoaks derailment. I'm not sure how the development of Meldon quarry relates to the changeover to decently shaped stones, but I think it was partly driven by bad experience with shingle. Always go back to primary sources ........ see below for the strange 'jumble sale' of ballast that was described in the Sevenoaks derailment inquiry report. Edited September 25, 2017 by Nearholmer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullie Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 If you suffer from subsidence due to the use of foam board, all you need is to build in a bit of coastal erosion and you have a real Norfolk layout! Hat...... coat.....................gone! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted September 25, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 25, 2017 My thoughts on your roads are this: I'd lay on something hardish and if you get drumming shove sound deadening under the boards. You want something that is going to be consistently flat, and non-squashable, and if you are going to pva your 'ballast' it may as well be hard too. Track: Pick your date and work out how hard up the company is at any one time. Do you really need Bull head in the platform road? Your trains here are going to be moving at slow speed, so high quality track is not a concern here (Look at the amount of terminal stations now that have what is frankly pi*s poor P-way!). Nick the running head every 35 or 45 feet, as that would be about the sort of length of the rails or the period (Oh, and make sure all vehicles have metal wheels) Ballast. Again all the yard and station can have the cheapest quality ballast, so will probably be ash (It's central heating season, so if you want ash let me know and you can have anthracite ash from my rayburn. I can keep differing colours in differing bags if required!), the bullhead bits my have ash or gravel or stone. Andy G 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted September 25, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 25, 2017 Precisely - hence the recent HST derailment at Paddington! Newtown station still has bullhead in the platforms but the runnings lines either side have long been modern FB. Jonathan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TheQ Posted September 26, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 26, 2017 Being a impecunious, country line I suspect that the line would have used something local like carrstone for ballast, which is often a nice golden colour, and convieniently could be replicated with sand and just a little over painting. Carrstone may be soft, but it's at least better than chalk which the line I'm modelling started off with... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrstone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted September 26, 2017 Author Share Posted September 26, 2017 Track components? I am pretty much sorted for plain track. I have plain BH track (SMP/Marcway) as seen in some of the pictures. I also FB rail and PCB sleepers. FB Points The FB rail can also be used for the 2 yard points. I need some longer pieces of PCB for the point sleepering. SMP supply http://www.marcway.net/list3.php?col=head&name=PCB, and C&L supply http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_359_649&product_id=3476 BH Points I need to acquire some BH rail, SMP (http://www.marcway.net/list3.php?col=head&name=RAILS), which offers a price advantage, or C&L (http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_350_351&product_id=3287) For the 3 BH points, C&L supply the plastic components, sleepereing with chairs, leaving the modeller to form the 'V's, blades and checkrails for themselves. These contain "approx 20 slide chairs, 140 running rail chairs and 50 timbers" and cost £14.40 per point, http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=346_347_358 The plastic sleepering (apparently without chairs) can also be bought separately: http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_359_648&product_id=3474; http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_359_648&product_id=4186. Not sure which pack would be best. Could I simply use PCB sleepering on the BH points with added chairs? Chairs (3 bolt to match the SMP track) are C&L, http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_348&product_id=3238. I don't see that SMP supply chairs. The 'V's and blades can be bought pre-formed from C&L, but would be prohibitively expensive for me, so I will have to form my own. I suppose that I do this using either BH or FB rail depending upon the point in question. I suppose I need other things, such as tie-bars, and rail-joiners. No real ideas about this yet, or how to operate the points. Cutting the rail to represent short lengths, as Andy G says, and applying cosmetic fish-plates would also seem necessary. While something like 30'-45' seems suitable for the BH, the older FB track could be as little as 20'-25' long. I intended to have only metal wheels, so I should have non-DCC sound in the form of a nice clickerty-clack. Any further thoughts or suggestions most welcome. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted September 26, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 26, 2017 Track components? I am pretty much sorted for plain track. I have plain BH track (SMP/Marcway) as seen in some of the pictures. I also FB rail and PCB sleepers. FB Points The FB rail can also be used for the 2 yard points. I need some longer pieces of PCB for the point sleepering. SMP supply http://www.marcway.net/list3.php?col=head&name=PCB, and C&L supply http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_359_649&product_id=3476 BH Points I need to acquire some BH rail, SMP (http://www.marcway.net/list3.php?col=head&name=RAILS), which offers a price advantage, or C&L (http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_350_351&product_id=3287) For the 3 BH points, C&L supply the plastic components, sleepereing with chairs, leaving the modeller to form the 'V's, blades and checkrails for themselves. These contain "approx 20 slide chairs, 140 running rail chairs and 50 timbers" and cost £14.40 per point, http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=346_347_358 The plastic sleepering (apparently without chairs) can also be bought separately: http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_359_648&product_id=3474; http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_359_648&product_id=4186. Not sure which pack would be best. Could I simply use PCB sleepering on the BH points with added chairs? Chairs (3 bolt to match the SMP track) are C&L, http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_348&product_id=3238. I don't see that SMP supply chairs. The 'V's and blades can be bought pre-formed from C&L, but would be prohibitively expensive for me, so I will have to form my own. I suppose that I do this using either BH or FB rail depending upon the point in question. I suppose I need other things, such as tie-bars, and rail-joiners. No real ideas about this yet, or how to operate the points. Cutting the rail to represent short lengths, as Andy G says, and applying cosmetic fish-plates would also seem necessary. While something like 30'-45' seems suitable for the BH, the older FB track could be as little as 20'-25' long. I intended to have only metal wheels, so I should have non-DCC sound in the form of a nice clickerty-clack. Any further thoughts or suggestions most welcome. You just need to watch out for different thicknesses of sleepers/timbers. SMP copperclad is 1.2 mm thick - not sure about C&L. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted September 26, 2017 Author Share Posted September 26, 2017 (edited) You just need to watch out for different thicknesses of sleepers/timbers. SMP copperclad is 1.2 mm thick - not sure about C&L. Thanks, I did not realise. I think for rails and PCB sleepers I will stick to SMP. C&L for chairs and query whether I should also have C&L plastic sleepering for the BH points? Probably not if the difference in depth applies to plastic sleepers. As for the rest - how to make them and make them work - well, it's a mystery wrapped in an enigma placed in a screw top jar with a stuck-fast lid on a high shelf out of reach in a place without steps. Now I come to think about it, WHAT THE HELL WAS I THINKING?!? Edited September 26, 2017 by Edwardian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted September 26, 2017 Author Share Posted September 26, 2017 My head is starting to hurt as I try to think through what comes next. Electrickery Every time I see an article that seeks to explain how to wire a point, or "change the polarity", I do, honestly, try to follow it. Unfortunately, I can derive no sense from any writings on the subject, as, so far as I am concerned, I am a peasant from the Dark Ages and electricity is magic. Do any wiring issues influence how the points are constructed? Point operation? This seems to require some measure of forward planning, as a hole of some dimension or other must be provided below the point. Motors? This would add considerably to the cost and complexity, and, of course, they are operated by magic, so I should probably just forget about them. But then, do hand-built points need a motor to keep the blades in position? I often hear of "wire and tube" and, while the basic concept is simple enough for me to grasp, this method is more often referred to than described in the sort of detail that permits of practical emulation. My wood butchery is not exactly what you would call "precision carpentry", and the points will not be at right angles to the board (not that, truth be told, the boards feature many right angles), so lining up a rod to operate them from the front of the board seems ambitious. Ballast If we ever get that far, I quite like the look of this as gravel ballast for the running lines: http://www.green-scenes.co.uk/store/product/gs-406. This is the 4mm scale version. Every layout article I have ever rad states that they used "N gauge" ballast for 4mil/OO. Which rather begs a question of manufacturers of scale ballast .... . So, I would naturally have plumped for their 2mm scale ballast, however, IanLMS stated above (post 5326) that "I use their "scale sized" OO gauge ballast and I am very happy with it. Supposedly, they actually went to various sites, measured the actual ballast stones in the location and graded chippings to match the scale". Thank you Ian. The ballast pictured below is Green Scenes' brown and "light grey" ballast (http://www.green-scenes.co.uk/store/product/gs-409). The latter looks to me to be a fairly yellow grey, rather than white grey (which I wanted to avoid), and so I wonder if mixing the two might be OK? Mikkel of this parish has considered C&L foam underlay, and Edwardian ballasting practice and a comparison of gravel ballast and Carr's Ash, here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/75/entry-713-cl-underlay-and-carrs-ballast/ Carr's ballast is available from Phoenix/Precision, and the ash ballast is the assumed choice for all non-upgraded WN track, which will include all sidings and some or all of the branches that are still laid to FB. On the Precision site that product illustrations are still "coming soon", so here is a picture of a layout called "Bacup", featured on another forum site, New Railway Modellers. Apologies for the appropriation. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted September 26, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 26, 2017 Yes, definitely two thickness of PCB sleeper strip. One is 1 mm. I don't know about the other. Filing crossing Vees is not hard, but remember that at the point of the Vee, the filed part,of each rail is bent, not straight. There are various articles about this around. If you are stuck say so and I'll try to do a drawing. It is not difficult if you have the track gauges. But make sure also you have a suitable check rail gauge. You need strength for the BH pointwork so i suggest that you use PCB here as well, with cosmetic chairs (half-chairs stuck on afterwards, nearly as much fun as adding bolt heads to PO wagons). For the FB track, what is holding the rail down (and I don't mean the solder)? There should be the heads of the spikes, but this is also very tedious. And don't cut the rail right through at the joints just a nick. Then add cosmetic etched fishplates. And no Peco rail joiners please! Finally, it is really best to make sure that each length of rail has a dropper added before installation as it is unwise to rely on rail joiners for electrical continuity. And adding them later is not good for the soul. Does all this sound like the voice of experience?! Jonathan 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les le Breton Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Stationmaster Mike recommended some close foam stuff but that will probably cost a bit. I am not a great believer in floating track as usually once ballasted and fixed with PVA it is pretty solid. I have seen copydex recommended. I have used it to fix things down. It is I assume latex based as it is rather rubbery. If you are building your own track I think a good flat base is ideal. Ply is fine to raise the track a little thick card can be used. To raise it more something thicker with thin ply on top would be good. Mind you my portable layout has the track mounted on polystyrene packing from new flat pack units about 20mm thick as it started as a test track using odd bits of peco track I didn't bother with the ply but to be honest just some decent card would be good enough. I am surprised at Jim's problems with balsa partly I suppose because 2mm is a bit more sensitive and 3/8ths is quite thick so perhaps can compress more I just think someones been a bit heavy handed. you shouldn't need much pressure building track and it is normal to use something to spread the load and keep things flat if placing on weights while the pva sets. Incidently one of my concerns with copydex is whether the rubbery stuff causes bumps anyway. Foam board is to my mind is perhaps too easy to compress so not my first choice although 5mm topped with 2mm ply would be ideal I think. Don I have used Woodland Scenics, track underlay on my Aberaeron layout http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/115981-aberaeron-station/page-3. I used Woodland Scenics own adhesive which seemed to behave like a cross between PVA and Copydex. My reasoning came as a result of my loco test track, which is a baseboard of 6mm ply. It resonates to all train traffic in the same way that a guitar does! Aberaeron has the same baseboard structure and the Woodland Scenics, track underlay seems to work well. I have yet to add a coat of ballast but the depth of the track positioning in the underlay looks suitable for a reasonable covering of ballast. I have followed Castle Aching for some time and enjoyed the banter between knowledgeable railway modellers. You have brightened many a difficult day with family health issues, a real tonic. Thank you all. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted September 26, 2017 Author Share Posted September 26, 2017 (edited) Thank you Gentlemen. Must to consider and absorb. I'd lay on something hardish and if you get drumming shove sound deadening under the boards. You want something that is going to be consistently flat, and non-squashable, and if you are going to pva your 'ballast' it may as well be hard too. Fair point. Iain Rice implies that if you use school PVA with non-stone ballast, you obtain a more flexible mixture. Track: Pick your date and work out how hard up the company is at any one time. Do you really need Bull head in the platform road? Your trains here are going to be moving at slow speed, so high quality track is not a concern here (Look at the amount of terminal stations now that have what is frankly pi*s poor P-way!). Fair point. It is not a through station. It might look odd, though, if, outside the station, the running line suddenly turned to BH. There is a case for retaining FB (and ash ballast) throughout. I could box up the SMP BH plain track for a future project and just build all the plain track with FB/PCB. Oh, the agony of indecision! Nick the running head every 35 or 45 feet, as that would be about the sort of length of the rails or the period (Oh, and make sure all vehicles have metal wheels) Or, perhaps, even shorter lengths (20'-25') for older FB rail? Ballast. Again all the yard and station can have the cheapest quality ballast, so will probably be ash (It's central heating season, so if you want ash let me know and you can have anthracite ash from my rayburn. I can keep differing colours in differing bags if required!), the bullhead bits my have ash or gravel or stone. And to think, our old unsold hose had a wood-burning boiler! Have burnt coal (filthy stuff to have in the house!), but not knowingly specifically anthracite. That is a kind offer and I would be interested, thank you. Being a impecunious, country line I suspect that the line would have used something local like carrstone for ballast, which is often a nice golden colour, and convieniently could be replicated with sand and just a little over painting. Carrstone may be soft, but it's at least better than chalk which the line I'm modelling started off with... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrstone That would seem to fit well with the Green Scene brown ballast. You just need to watch out for different thicknesses of sleepers/timbers. SMP copperclad is 1.2 mm thick - not sure about C&L. Yes, definitely two thickness of PCB sleeper strip. One is 1 mm. I don't know about the other. Good, thanks both, will stick with SMP then. Filing crossing Vees is not hard, but remember that at the point of the Vee, the filed part,of each rail is bent, not straight. There are various articles about this around. If you are stuck say so and I'll try to do a drawing. It is not difficult if you have the track gauges. But make sure also you have a suitable check rail gauge. Noted, thanks You need strength for the BH pointwork so i suggest that you use PCB here as well, with cosmetic chairs (half-chairs stuck on afterwards, nearly as much fun as adding bolt heads to PO wagons). Understood. That makes sense and that is what I will do. With aforesaid SMP PCB, to be purchased in longer strips. For the FB track, what is holding the rail down (and I don't mean the solder)? There should be the heads of the spikes, but this is also very tedious. Yes, the Elephant in the Four Foot. It should have spikes. Have you found anything suitable for said spikes in 4mil? And don't cut the rail right through at the joints just a nick. Then add cosmetic etched fishplates. And no Peco rail joiners please! Understood. You will be pleased to know that the use of Peco rail-joining "fishplates" has never been under consideration! Finally, it is really best to make sure that each length of rail has a dropper added before installation as it is unwise to rely on rail joiners for electrical continuity. And adding them later is not good for the soul. Ah, I knew magic would come into this somewhere. 2 wires, one to each rail? No, I'm not joking here. Does all this sound like the voice of experience?! Yes Edited September 26, 2017 by Edwardian 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted September 26, 2017 Author Share Posted September 26, 2017 (edited) I have used Woodland Scenics, track underlay on my Aberaeron layout http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/115981-aberaeron-station/page-3. I used Woodland Scenics own adhesive which seemed to behave like a cross between PVA and Copydex. That is worth considering. Mikkel has used a C&L foam underlay. I like the sound of the glue, which might dry more flexibly than straight PVA - to be investigated further. I have followed Castle Aching for some time and enjoyed the banter between knowledgeable railway modellers. You have brightened many a difficult day with family health issues, a real tonic. Thank you all. Glad to hear it, and thanks for being here; this lot and their knowledgeable banter certainly keep me going! EDIT: Something weird happened and this post ended up split into two - Part one is on the previous page! Edited September 26, 2017 by Edwardian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted September 26, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 26, 2017 (edited) Here are pictures of the ballast on my layout using the "scale 4mm" stuff - it has a reddish brown tint to it which I quite like and probably suitable for layouts in North Yorks/Cumbria area. I will check tonight and let you know what colour I purchased. Fixed it down using the standard pva/water/washing up liquid mix - however, I have found that Duluxe Materials Ballast Bond is superb stuff!! Ready mixed, just spray water on the ballast and dribble the solution over it and walk away for a few hours. Very strong and no issues with mixing a solution that's too weak, allowing the ballast to become loose again! trust me - been there, done that! As with all my ballast, ground cover I weather it using a variety of weathering powders, pigments, washes and ash/coal dust. The wagon sidings was ballasted using ash from my open fire covered over a DAS clay layer pushed in between the sleepers and across the tracks. This may be more suitable for CA and the period you are modeling. Stone in this part of the country tends to be flint or chalk - neither much use for ballasting track with but great for buildings. Any granite/limestone type materials had to be shipped/carted in I guess. A few pics here might help with your search: http://www.suffolktouristguide.com/Lost-Railways-of-Suffolk-and-East-Anglia.asp - the one of Worstead (nr Norwich/Wroxham) looks like it is ballasted with stone chippings and the pic circa's around 1905. Edited September 26, 2017 by ianLMS 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
runs as required Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Sorry but a pretty baubble just distracted me from ballasting: I do think you need this as a Dandified occasional visitor to the WNR (with a Sandringham bound VIP) dh 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted September 26, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 26, 2017 Sorry but a pretty baubble just distracted me from ballasting: I do think you need this as a Dandified occasional visitor to the WNR (with a Sandringham bound VIP) dh That's a challenge - combining as it does the early glimmerings of Johnsonian elegance with the slotted splashers and Alexander Allan-type front end that are being addressed elsewhere... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted September 26, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 26, 2017 (edited) here is a link to a picture of Swaffham Prior station I believe, just down the road from Castle Acre, so probably suitable for CA. Uniform suggest Edwardian so may be around the right era. Note the ballast appears quite fine etc. Several other good pics in Bing Images or Google Images if you search Swaffham Railway. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=4J7FyPgZ&id=6CAD13EFF4FFBA82FB1E2A9BC9C379A7AC6F272F&thid=OIP.4J7FyPgZw-7nMBRubFus9gEsDH&q=pictures+of+swaffham+railway+station&simid=607986797586091028&selectedindex=31&mode=overlay&first=1 Ian Edited September 26, 2017 by ianLMS 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotcent Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 A few points made have resonance for me. I was much involved in our "Bonnybridge" layout many years ago. The main lines were ballasted with (I think) some granite stuff; but the goods yard was presumed to have been ash ballast laid about 30 years previously. I got some coarse "Pollyfilla" or equivalent, well diluted with water, and coloured with powder paint, and sploshed it around with a 1" paint brush, which left the sleepers visible, but virtually flush with the ballast. (This was an impecunious secondary line built in the 1880's). A bit of paint detailing finished it off. On my own layout I used (on someone's recommendation) 5mm camping mat as underlay, mostly laid with carpet adhesive. It is very prone to permanent deformation, eg by a careless elbow, and it gives no improvement in sound insulation. The track is fixed down variously with carpet adhesive, PVA, and Copydex, and a few sections are only pinned loosely down. Interestingly these latter are the only bits which don't transmit any loco noise, and the difference when a loco is running along is most striking. Allan F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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