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Hi

 

Following a request from a previous post I thought I'd share my method of lowering the lima class 37 -

 

A few pics pre-modification -

 

lima%2037%20002_zpsbkvmleqq.jpg

 

lima%2037%20003_zps0m3bbdbm.jpg

 

Starting with the trailing bogie remove the raised sections on the bogie and chassis.

 

lima%2037%20005_zpstwxw0trh.jpg

 

lima%2037%20006_zpsc0ftctyj.jpg

 

lima%2037%20007_zpsmdbqombb.jpg

 

Moving on to the motor bogie I think it is easier to modify the chassis rather than try and evenly alter the height of the bogie pads.

 

All you need is some plastic "L" girder, a sharp blade and some glue, I used revell contacta as it was handy.

 

Once the bogie has been removed cut a length of L girder and place it above where the bogie pivots sit and mark the profile of the chassis on it, do not glue it yet -

 

lima%2037%20008_zpsgiojkbl3.jpg

 

once this has been done cut away the section where the bogie pivot sits, you can now glue the L girder in place, the bogie will now sit around 1.5mm further into the chassis. The side where gears are will require more trimming.

 

 DSCF0267_zpsexatq4e5.jpg

 

DSCF0268_zpsirbckevb.jpg

 

lima%2037%20009_zpsnion6j7t.jpg

 

As I sometimes use my locos on a layout with second radius curves I removed sections from the chassis where the wheels will make contact.

 

 lima%2037%20011_zpsqufcipxu.jpg

 

lima%2037%20012_zpsb1g4ehie.jpg

 

And all finished -

 

lima%2037%20016_zpsgadfjerl.jpg

 

lima%2037%20016_zpsgadfjerl.jpg

 

lima%2037%20014_zpsnnpuqldx.jpg

 

lima%2037%20013_zpsbucvlnwk.jpg

 

 

Hope this all makes sense, contact me if you have any questions.

 

Regards

Andrew

 

DSCF0035_zpsa497b2c6.jpg

 

DSCF0037_zpsb9737d52.jpg

 

 

 

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Guest 40-something

That does make some difference, never something I done when I used to mod Lima 37's by the dozen back in the 90's, wish I did. 

 

A further question to this, has anyone managed to increase the tumblehome  angle?

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Andrew,

 

well done for your work there. I have that same task ahead of my in my to-do pile; I was planning to do it different but think your method is better. That's not the only problem with the Lima EE3, but the biggest one. Certainly I don't think there are any more problems to sort with the Lima version than there is with the Bachmann one.

 

40-S

If you look on RMW and on google for "James Wells class 37 37217" you will see how he did his. Quite clever. Use a 3/16th brass square channel tight up against the inside of the lower step, score and gently bend (that simple... apparently). He sent me some photos of the work when he was doing it; I assume these are in the public domain already, but let me know and (assuming he is OK) I will send you a copy.

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Hi all,

 

I'm glad to see there is more than just me who are trying to use the Lima Cl 37 and update them.

 

I have done similar work to lower the body as has been described.

 

How many? lost count....

 

Still have 2 more brand new, in boxes to do - collectors editions as well!

 

40 S - This was one of the first things you looked at on the DEMU Roadshow in Scotland!

 

such memories....

 

Anyway - thanks for posting a write up on here.

 

Keep on modelling!

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Guest 40-something

Hi all,

 

I'm glad to see there is more than just me who are trying to use the Lima Cl 37 and update them.

 

I have done similar work to lower the body as has been described.

 

How many? lost count....

 

Still have 2 more brand new, in boxes to do - collectors editions as well!

 

40 S - This was one of the first things you looked at on the DEMU Roadshow in Scotland!

 

such memories....

 

Anyway - thanks for posting a write up on here.

 

Keep on modelling!

You've got a better memory than me Phil!!! Long time ago!!!

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Im planning on doing this very soon to an old lima 37,then using the shawplan window etches as obviously the lima ones are horrendous!

 

Not having much luck though even getting a reply from shawplan about ordering them!

 

Cheers

 

Ben

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40-S re our PM conversation, I will email photos when I'm back at the weekend. I have asked Mr James Wells for his permission (granted) to also upload them to this forum as I think other people will find it useful.

 

Although I don't think it has much on his Lima 37, webspace: http://eastmoor.blogspot.co.uk/ is well worth visiting to look at similar projects (31s, 40s and 47s especially). Very skilled modeller and very helpful if you need advice. Certainly I learned much from his work.

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Now the body has been lowered, what are you going to do about the body side grilles being 2mm short in height?

 

The Lima body has 2mm short cab doors so that there enough meat for the footstep to act as the clip to hold the body in place. On the real thing the bottom body grilles line up with the doors, so do the Lima ones which make bottom of them 2mm to high from the bottom of the body. It took me years to work out why the Lima 37 looked wrong.

 

I won't mention the cab side windows being too long because the cab windscreen is too flat, or the roof being to shallow in profile................

 

I like the Lima chassis, I use them under my Tri-ang Type 3s, they look much better for a new chassis.

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40-S re our PM conversation, I will email photos when I'm back at the weekend. I have asked Mr James Wells for his permission (granted) to also upload them to this forum as I think other people will find it useful.

 

Although I don't think it has much on his Lima 37, webspace: http://eastmoor.blogspot.co.uk/ is well worth visiting to look at similar projects (31s, 40s and 47s especially). Very skilled modeller and very helpful if you need advice. Certainly I learned much from his work.

Thanks again Derek

 

Had a browse around his site and he certainly is a skilled modeller with a true eye for detail!  I'll be taking some hints from that blog!

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Clive,

 

don't shout it too loud but it isn't powered by a real diesel engine either.

 

Joking aside, I find that overall it can be made to look right, even if a forensic analysis shows that it isn't. Anyone who doubts that really needs to have a look at James's work.

 

I would agree though that the cab window does look proportionally wrong. I did note though that if you put a vertical strip between the droplight and the quarterlight it does disguise that a fair bit (the real EE3 did have a plate there as well).

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Clive,

 

don't shout it too loud but it isn't powered by a real diesel engine either.

 

Joking aside, I find that overall it can be made to look right, even if a forensic analysis shows that it isn't. Anyone who doubts that really needs to have a look at James's work.

 

I would agree though that the cab window does look proportionally wrong. I did note though that if you put a vertical strip between the droplight and the quarterlight it does disguise that a fair bit (the real EE3 did have a plate there as well).

Derek

 

Measure the doors and grilles on the Lima body side, they are 2mm to short in height. Once you see it, it looks very wrong.

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Clive

 

a small group of people here seem to be happy enough to work with the model despite its shortcomings. It looks broadly like what it is- a model of an English Electric Type 3.

 

I know you are by nature a decent and helpful chap, but one could be easily mistaken and assume you are being critical and dismissive rather than providing constructive help.

 

This hobby has a vast range of opinions on what matters and what does not. I personally think that 4ft 1" '00' track looks wrong, but I can still respect other people who use that gauge and admire their work nonetheless. Likewise I couldn't give a hoot about the incorrect 2mm on the body as it looks about right and unless parked next to a tape measure, few will notice.

 

I really admire those who put their work on here for people to see. Most people are complimentary or provide constructive criticism, but it must be so dis-heartening to just be criticised with a sneering dismissal.

 

Apologies to Andrew for the hijack. No war of words intended with Clive, whom I respect. Even when he is wrong.

 

Derek

 

Measure the doors and grilles on the Lima body side, they are 2mm to short in height. Once you see it, it looks very wrong.


Are these not the right height once it is lowered? I seem to remember that the buffers sit to high before lowering.

 

What about the height of the buffers?

 

 

EDIT: Wrong OP name.

Edited by Derekstuart
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I didn't take Clive's comment in a negative way at all, but you have made a point about OO being too narrow:

 

We only become dissatisfied with something once we have become used to something different, or better.

If the entire forum pooled its resources, we could build an awesome layout with zero defects...or spend our lives arguing about it :sungum:

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Hello Pete

 

I'm not arguing with Clive at all, just a little frustrated that I have acknowledged that it is not dimensionally correct, but still looks about right- only to be told that again that it is dimensionally incorrect. You can probably tell that this isn't the first time this conversation has been had about this particular item on RMW.

 

As for pooling resources- I doubt there could ever be a bigger repository of modelling knowledge as RMWeb. Everything from those working in the real industry, to those fussing over n thou inaccuracy in the size of a grill slat to those who want to run HSTs at 125MPH around 5 chain curves. If the answer to a question isn't here, then no doubt someone will be along to answer it.

 

I think that is the reason why so many people when they drift off, as is normal in a forum, come back again at some point.

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I shorten the upstands on the power bogies on mine to achieve much the same effect.   Which reminds me winter is coming, time to repair the track and get the old battery powered 37s and snow plough ready for action.  Nothing quite like charging real snow drifts on a garden line.

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Derek

 

Measure the doors and grilles on the Lima body side, they are 2mm to short in height. Once you see it, it looks very wrong.

post-16423-0-46014200-1478897378_thumb.jpg

 

My own model undergoing backdating to 1960s. I don't know what to do about the short doors and grilles, except cutting a second body and doing some jigger-pockery with the bits. My scratchbuilt locos do not have grilles that are as well defined as Lima mouldings so scoring the Lima body is a no go.

 

Increasing the angle of the tuck-under means altering the chassis width and with very little material where the power bogie pivots on the chassis I am not going to narrow it down. 

 

See http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/62561-rough-engineering-made-easy-converting-diesels/?p=816885

Edited by Clive Mortimore
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I didn't take Clive's comment in a negative way at all, but you have made a point about OO being too narrow:

 

We only become dissatisfied with something once we have become used to something different, or better.

If the entire forum pooled its resources, we could build an awesome layout with zero defects...or spend our lives arguing about it :sungum:

Beware of pooling resources as we all know the definition of a Camel, a horse designed by a committee!

 

Mark Saunders

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Andrew,

 

I agree 100%. When you see the Lima 37 alongside the Bachmann 37 you can see straight away that the Lima is not right (as Clive said- not that it was ever in doubt anyway).

 

But in your photo above of it on its own it looks like a pretty reasonable representation of an English Electric Type 3 to me. Again, once coupled to a wagon it looks like what it's supposed to be. It will be interesting to see how it will look when coupled to a carriage.

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