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Heljan announces the development of a Class 50


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13 minutes ago, Clarky1000 said:

Yes I did use the Railtec Film Free Decals

 

They are quite delicate, but work very well

 

I haven't used any varnish to protect them to date, but I generally use Tamiya varnish.

 

Its very fine and does give a great finish

 

G

Thanks I was hoping not to varnish and thanks for the advice railtec. I’ve used Tamiya xf86 before but not on such a massive area.

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2 hours ago, delticfan said:

Have you used the film free decals from railtec, I was hoping to avoid airbrushing the whole body side to seal them in but I can’t see a way round it. If you have what varnish did you use. Can anyone make a suggestion.

I usually seal pressfix type with thinned varnish painted just over the transfer with a tiny brush. I always weather so the slight overlap here and there wont show and safer than doing the whole thing. Admittedly I've never deliberately picked anything up roughly to test it but I think it works! 

 

Presumably this approach could be applied to the filmless type as well?

 

Edit - thinking about it I used railtec individual numbers on my class 25 and sealed them by hand.

Edited by Hal Nail
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Here's my first; 50 013 Agincourt.  Great model, with a superb paint job.  As usual, fitting a decoder was a bit of a faf.  The pickups and motors are easy, but the lights are less so.  To assist, the headlight wires are yellow (+)/blue, the head code lights and cab lights are the same LED and are white (+)/blue and the red marker light is green (+)/purple.  Space in the body for two large speakers.  Terrific.  

IMG_1533.jpeg

IMG_1531.jpeg

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36 minutes ago, Gary H said:

Does anyone know if there are plans to cover the un refurbished versions? 

No plans, as I understand it.  I can see that the single livery might be a problem; but I suppose its a case of never say never with O gauge these days.  

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8 hours ago, uk_pm said:

Here's my first; 50 013 Agincourt.  Great model, with a superb paint job.  As usual, fitting a decoder was a bit of a faf.  The pickups and motors are easy, but the lights are less so.  To assist, the headlight wires are yellow (+)/blue, the head code lights and cab lights are the same LED and are white (+)/blue and the red marker light is green (+)/purple.  Space in the body for two large speakers.  Terrific.  

IMG_1533.jpeg

IMG_1531.jpeg

 

Hi uk.pm,

 

many thanks for the info, could I ask a question or two please - did you retain the Heljan pcb, did you have to fit resistors to the lighting circuits and did the speakers go in the fuel tanks? Also, why is the (-) wire on the headlight purple and not blue?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

 

Edited by Ressaldar
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18 hours ago, railtec-models said:

 

I have in fact just created in the past couple of hours another 7mm filmless pack for NSE sizes loco numbers after seeing Brian's tasty looking 50. Here's the link, if it helps:

 

https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=3975

 

Parallel filmless packs for standard size BR, larger 8" Scottish and large logo numbers already exist, in addition of course to the conventional range. Hopefully this should cover all the bases. There also exists complete loco packs with your choice of number for various class 50 liveries.

 

Assume these are correct for both original (up swept ends) and revised NSE livery Steve?

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13 hours ago, Ressaldar said:

 

Hi uk.pm,

 

many thanks for the info, could I ask a question or two please - did you retain the Heljan pcb, did you have to fit resistors to the lighting circuits and did the speakers go in the fuel tanks? Also, why is the (-) wire on the headlight purple and not blue?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

 

Hello

 

Apologies for the slow response.  I ditched the Heljan PCB, and did not need to fit separate resistors for the lights.   I didn’t put the speakers in the fuel tanks - although there is space for a relatively chunky round speaker in there, I think. I will have to take the body off later, so will photograph the ensemble.  Basically, the whole body between the motors is filled with the speakers.  I’m afraid I don’t know why the wires are coloured as they are; it was trial-and-error. 

 

I hope this all helps.

 

PM

Edited by uk_pm
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12 hours ago, uk_pm said:

Hello

 

Apologies for the slow response.  I ditched the Heljan PCB, and did not need to fit separate resistors for the lights.   I didn’t put the speakers in the fuel tanks - although there is space for a relatively chunky round speaker in there, I think. I will have to take the body off later, so will photograph the ensemble.  Basically, the whole body between the motors is filled with the speakers.  I’m afraid I don’t know why the wires are coloured as they are; it was trial-and-error. 

 

I hope this all helps.

 

PM

 

Hi PM,

 

many thanks for your response. I have ordered my Zimo MX699KS + two Icecube speakers, so hopefully fun and games in the near future.

 

I have noticed that on my model, which I have yet to remove the body from the chassis, when looking at it 'end on' the right hand red light does not illuminate while the left hand one does - did the right hand one illuminate in real life? 

 

One other question, is the handbrake lever and chain part of the chassis or is it fixed to the body and therefore needs to be disconnected as part of the body/chassis operation?

 

kind regards and a merry Christmas

 

Mike

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3 hours ago, Ressaldar said:

 

Hi PM,

 

many thanks for your response. I have ordered my Zimo MX699KS + two Icecube speakers, so hopefully fun and games in the near future.

 

I have noticed that on my model, which I have yet to remove the body from the chassis, when looking at it 'end on' the right hand red light does not illuminate while the left hand one does - did the right hand one illuminate in real life? 

 

One other question, is the handbrake lever and chain part of the chassis or is it fixed to the body and therefore needs to be disconnected as part of the body/chassis operation?

 

kind regards and a merry Christmas

 

Mike

Hi Mike

 

I think that until relatively recently, only a single red light illuminated at the rear of locos running light engine.   Indeed, when HSTs were introduced, the only had one illuminated red light. Although I cannot say with confidence that that was the case with the class 50s.  It is certainly deliberate; there is only one red light in the loco.  

 

The hand brake lever and chain are indeed part of the chassis, so there is no need to worry about them when removing the body.  But they do make it impossible to remove the bogie sides in order to weather the wheels, or work on the bogie side frames.  

 

Has anyone else found their class 50 to be over-lubricated?  I am finding a lot of white gear-grease is emerging from the bogie and finding its way onto the running surface of the wheel (where it impedes pick up).

 

Merry Christmas.

 

PM

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12 hours ago, Ressaldar said:

 

Hi PM,

 

many thanks for your response. I have ordered my Zimo MX699KS + two Icecube speakers, so hopefully fun and games in the near future.

 

I have noticed that on my model, which I have yet to remove the body from the chassis, when looking at it 'end on' the right hand red light does not illuminate while the left hand one does - did the right hand one illuminate in real life? 

 

One other question, is the handbrake lever and chain part of the chassis or is it fixed to the body and therefore needs to be disconnected as part of the body/chassis operation?

 

kind regards and a merry Christmas

 

Mike

 

If you zoom in on this picture, you'll see just the left hand tail light is illuminated. This was common on locos.

 

Class 50 50016 "Barham" passing through Didcot light engine

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/treflyn/2874836939

Edited by BR(S)
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15 hours ago, BR(S) said:

 

If you zoom in on this picture, you'll see just the left hand tail light is illuminated. This was common on locos.

 

Class 50 50016 "Barham" passing through Didcot light engine

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/treflyn/2874836939


Hi BR(S)

 

many thanks for your post. I am aware of the left hand  light, it is the right hand light that concerned me in as much as there is a red lens fitted on the model, which now appears to do nothing but act as a ‘reflector’ at least on the Hymek and others, the right hand lens was over a ‘white’  running light.

 

Just seems a waste of a fitting.

 

kind regards

 

Mike

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6 hours ago, Roadrails said:

Does anyone have any drawings of a CP1800? Would love to kitbash one, but feel they might be shorter and fatter?

Crikey! You want to kit bash a £600 model to make a CP1800??:o

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On 24/12/2019 at 07:52, Pete the Elaner said:

 

I have to ask...which speakers did you use please?

I would rather have mine to hand than take it apart to measure, leave it for a few days then fit speakers.

Here's a picture of the chassis laden with highly effective speakers.  The result, when mixed with Legomanbiffo's class 50 recordings, is glorious.  

 

PM

 

 

IMG_1555.jpeg

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12 hours ago, Ressaldar said:


Hi BR(S)

 

many thanks for your post. I am aware of the left hand  light, it is the right hand light that concerned me in as much as there is a red lens fitted on the model, which now appears to do nothing but act as a ‘reflector’ at least on the Hymek and others, the right hand lens was over a ‘white’  running light.

 

Just seems a waste of a fitting.

 

kind regards

 

Mike


the difference here is it is not a marker light but another tail light. Best practice was when stabled in a siding next to a running line, you would illuminate the tail light furthest from the running line, to reduce the chance of it being mistaken at night for a signal

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4 hours ago, Clarky1000 said:

Ajax looks fantastic!

 

I think large logo blue was the very best BR livery............but they were always so filthy!!

 

Great stuff!!

 Ajax had a black roof certainly in late eighties till withdrawal, it was the last of the logs and a regular reliable loco on the Mule.

 

Alan

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