RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 21, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 21, 2019 (edited) L&Y 1 plank open part 3. I managed to get the height on the body right but got the plank line in the wrong place. So I removed the body and made it again. Before I replace the angle irons on the end I will go over this with a fine tooth comb to make sure I finally got it right. The Easter bunny brought me a new grandson today so perhaps things will now go right on the modelling front. Edited April 21, 2019 by airnimal Bad spelling 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 21, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 21, 2019 Finally I think I have got it spot on with the body dimensions, so I have added the iron work on the ends and drilled holes and glued in the buffers. 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signalman Rich Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 Congratulations on the birth of your grandson. I am sure he will admire Grandad's wagon building like the rest of us. Lovely work as always. Best wishes Rich 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 21, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 21, 2019 Signal man Rich, Thank your kind comments regarding the new arrival. I hope in time to have him in the workshop with tools in hand teaching him how cut metal and solder the same as I have with the first grandson. The second grandson is only 18 months old but always wants to go into the workshop to see grandad trains. This latest grandson may be a bit more of a problem as he is in Australia. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 22, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 22, 2019 I have replaced the iron work on the ends because I filed the angles to shallow. I can now start to detail the body after all the messing about trying to get the dimensions of the body right. The corner plates I have made from 10 thou plastic which is to thick. I should try 5 thou but I never seem make a good job using plastic this thin. 4 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 22, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 22, 2019 I have started to put the many rivets on the solebars. I even put some on that weren't there and had to remove them and fill the holes with filler. This is not the most entertaining job I have ever done, so much so I have only do one side. The other side can wait untill tomorrow. 4 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 23, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 23, 2019 (edited) All the rivets and bolt heads are now on with just the label clips to cut out and put on. I keep looking at the buffer housings and thinking although they look like L&Y they could be Caledonian. I have had these in my parts box for many years and the packing and labels has been lost so I am unsure of the origins. The rib down the side looks to be to long although they are the same shape and style as L&Y. i may change these if I can get some more this weekend at the Leigh show. Edited April 23, 2019 by airnimal To many photos 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 CR buffers were three bolt with a single rib on the outer side, so, yes, these could well be CR ones. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 Cally, Highland and LYR all used very similar buffers. We use the same casting for all three in our kits. Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 25, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 25, 2019 I have had another look at the buffer issue and have come to the conclusion I have used the wrong ones. I went back to my L&Y van and looked at the buffer I used on that and they don't have a rib down the side and I know where these came from. These also have a backing plate on which has distinct shape which the other two don't have. From my parts box I had two packets of buffers one marked CR and one without any labels on. The photo of the buffers has the CR ones on the right and the Unknown one on the left. i also found some v-hangers that were just right. 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 7 hours ago, airnimal said: The photo of the buffers has the CR ones on the right and the Unknown one on the left. i also found some v-hangers that were just right. Consulting Mike Wiliam's book on CR wagons, the CR had a heavy duty self contained type which looks very similar to the left hand one in the photo. The drawing has neither a scale nor dimensions, but assuming the head to be c1'1" in diameter, I estimate the body to be around 9" diam. Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 28, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 28, 2019 (edited) I did a demo stand at the Leigh show yesterday and managed to get the correct L&Y buffers. When I got them home and had a good look at them I was slightly disappointed with the bolt details on them. I think perhaps the moulds have become worn. So I have removed the mis shaped bolts and drilled the body to accept some plastic bolts from the MasterClub range. The photo was taken before the buffers were modified. Many thanks to all the people who stop by at Leigh to say hello. Edited April 28, 2019 by airnimal Bad spelling 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted April 28, 2019 Share Posted April 28, 2019 That was part of the reason we started to produce our own buffers. Marc 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 28, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 28, 2019 I have now drilled out and replaced the bolts on these L&Y buffers. I had to drill them first before using a small broach to open the hole to size. The second photo has the old buffers next to new ones. 10 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 29, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2019 Having got the buffers correct there is just the brakes to make. I couldn't find anything on the market that looks like the L&Y brake shoes. The only thing for it was to scratch build them myself. So I cut out a couple of shoes which have a very distinct shape not seen by me on any other railway. I have made a start to assemble the parts on the wagon which I find is not easy at all. How do the 4mm boys do this I can only guess at. 9 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 29, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2019 I found this brakegear not as difficult as expected once I got going. Just a few more bits to do including the safety loops and the brake rack and handle. It will make an unusual wagon with the different brake gear with both brake handles pointing to the same end and the steel under frame. 6 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 Where's the 'jealous' button when you need it.... Fabulous stuff as always. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Rixon Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 7 hours ago, airnimal said: Having got the buffers correct there is just the brakes to make. I couldn't find anything on the market that looks like the L&Y brake shoes. The only thing for it was to scratch build them myself. So I cut out a couple of shoes which have a very distinct shape not seen by me on any other railway. I have made a start to assemble the parts on the wagon which I find is not easy at all. How do the 4mm boys do this I can only guess at. In 4mm scale, it's hideously difficult to assemble brakes where all the parts are articulated. The easier brake parts are those made as one fold-up etch for each wheelbase; also prints. One thing that would help, in both 4mm and 7mm scales I guess, is dummy wheels that are the diameter of the real wheel tread plus clearance. I.e. the blocks can be positioned by pressing them against the dummy wheels while soldering. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 4 hours ago, Guy Rixon said: One thing that would help, in both 4mm and 7mm scales I guess, is dummy wheels that are the diameter of the real wheel tread plus clearance. I.e. the blocks can be positioned by pressing them against the dummy wheels while soldering. Put a narrow strip of masking tape around the tread of a wheelset when assembling the brake gear. After removal of the tape there is running clearance between the tyre and ths adjacent brake block. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted April 29, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 29, 2019 45 minutes ago, Western Star said: Put a narrow strip of masking tape around the tread of a wheelset when assembling the brake gear. After removal of the tape there is running clearance between the tyre and ths adjacent brake block. Nice idea - should produce just the right gap. Does it prevent heat-transfer to the wheel rim? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 (edited) 23 hours ago, Regularity said: Does it prevent heat-transfer to the wheel rim? Prevent? No. Reduce? Probably. When assembling the Exactoscale brake gear onto that manufacturer's metal underframes I progress as:- 1/ brake tumbler on to shaft through V-hanger; 2/ brake block to brake push rod on the bench; 3/ brake block / push rod to tumbler on the wagon; 4/ brake block to brake block hanger with block against tyre using 0.7mm wire through hanger / block / hanger; 5/ solder pin to hanger. Step 5 is soldering a wire pin to a thin / narrow strip of metal so the heat transfer to the brake block is low. regards, Graham Edited April 30, 2019 by Western Star 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted April 30, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 30, 2019 Thank you to everyone for all the input, it all helps. I have Just fitted Ambis brake racks with home made brake handles. I am near the end now but I have managed to misplace both the axleboxes and the retaining straps. I put things down or in boxes and can never find them for ages. The joys of old age ! 6 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 8 hours ago, airnimal said: I am near the end now but I have managed to misplace both the axleboxes and the retaining straps. I put things down or in boxes and can never find them for ages. The joys of old age ! I was torn between 'craftsmanship/clever' and 'Friendly/supportive' but went for the former. Been there done that..... Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 Looks very nice each time I see a new wagon from you it makes me think I ought to do some more. One query, are not the brakes the wrong way around? Both levers will release the brakes when pushed down. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted May 1, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 1, 2019 4 hours ago, N15class said: Looks very nice each time I see a new wagon from you it makes me think I ought to do some more. One query, are not the brakes the wrong way around? Both levers will release the brakes when pushed down. Or the levers face the wrong way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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