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S7 scratch building


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L&Y 1 plank open part 3.

I managed to get the height on the body right but got the plank line in the wrong place. 

So I removed the body and made it again. Before I replace the angle irons on the end I will go over this with a fine tooth comb to make sure I finally got it right.

The Easter bunny brought me a new grandson today so perhaps things will now go right on the modelling front.

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Edited by airnimal
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Signal man Rich, 

Thank your kind comments regarding the new arrival. I hope in time to have him in the workshop with tools in hand teaching him how cut metal and solder the same as I have with the first grandson. The second grandson is only 18 months old but always wants to go into the workshop to see grandad trains. This latest grandson may be a bit more of a problem as he is in Australia.

 

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I have replaced the iron work on the ends because I filed the angles to shallow. 

I can now start to detail the body after all the messing about trying to get the dimensions of the body right. The corner plates I have made from 10 thou plastic which is to thick. I should try 5 thou but I never seem make a good job using plastic this thin. 

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I have started to put the many rivets on the  solebars. I even put some on that weren't there and had to remove them and fill the holes with filler. This is not the most entertaining job I have ever done, so much so I have only do one side. The other side can wait untill tomorrow. 

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All the rivets and bolt heads are now on with just the label clips to cut out and put on. 

I keep looking at the buffer housings and thinking although they look like L&Y they could be Caledonian. I have had these in my parts box for many years and the packing and labels has been lost so I am unsure of the origins.

The rib down the side looks to be to long although they are the same shape and style as L&Y.

i may change these if I can get some more this weekend at the Leigh show.

 

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Edited by airnimal
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I have had another look at the buffer issue and have come to the conclusion I have used the wrong ones. 

I went back to my L&Y van and looked at the buffer I used on that and they don't have a rib down the side and I know where these came from. These also have a backing plate on which has distinct shape which the other two don't have.

From my parts box I had two packets of buffers one marked CR and one without any labels on. 

The photo of the buffers has the CR ones on the right and the Unknown one on the left.

i also found some v-hangers that were just right.

 

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7 hours ago, airnimal said:

The photo of the buffers has the CR ones on the right and the Unknown one on the left.

i also found some v-hangers that were just right.

 

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Consulting Mike Wiliam's book on CR wagons, the CR had a heavy duty self contained type which looks very similar to the left hand one in the photo.  The drawing has neither a scale nor dimensions, but assuming the head to be c1'1" in diameter, I estimate the body to be around 9" diam.

 

Jim

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I did a demo stand at the Leigh show yesterday and managed to get the correct L&Y buffers. When I got them home and had a good look at them I was slightly disappointed with the bolt details on them. I think perhaps the moulds have become worn. So I have removed the mis shaped bolts and drilled the body to accept some plastic bolts from the MasterClub range. The photo was taken before the buffers were modified.

Many thanks to all the people who stop by at Leigh to say hello.

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Edited by airnimal
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I have now drilled out and replaced the bolts on these L&Y buffers. I had to drill them first before using a small broach to open the hole to size.

The second photo has the old buffers next to new ones.

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Having got the buffers correct there is just the brakes to make. I couldn't find anything on the market that looks like the L&Y brake shoes. The only thing for it was to scratch build them myself. 

So I cut out a couple of shoes which have a very distinct shape not seen by me on any other railway.

I have made a start to assemble the parts on the wagon which I find is not easy at all. How do the 4mm boys do this I can only guess at.

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I found this brakegear not as difficult as expected once I got going.

Just a few more bits to do including the safety loops and the brake rack and handle. It will make an unusual wagon with the different brake gear with both brake handles pointing to the same end and the steel under frame.

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7 hours ago, airnimal said:

Having got the buffers correct there is just the brakes to make. I couldn't find anything on the market that looks like the L&Y brake shoes. The only thing for it was to scratch build them myself. 

So I cut out a couple of shoes which have a very distinct shape not seen by me on any other railway.

I have made a start to assemble the parts on the wagon which I find is not easy at all. How do the 4mm boys do this I can only guess at.

In 4mm scale, it's hideously difficult to assemble brakes where all the parts are articulated. The easier brake parts are those made as one fold-up etch for each wheelbase; also prints.

 

One thing that would help, in both 4mm and 7mm scales I guess, is dummy wheels that are the diameter of the real wheel tread plus clearance. I.e. the blocks can be positioned by pressing them against the dummy wheels while soldering.

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4 hours ago, Guy Rixon said:

One thing that would help, in both 4mm and 7mm scales I guess, is dummy wheels that are the diameter of the real wheel tread plus clearance. I.e. the blocks can be positioned by pressing them against the dummy wheels while soldering.

Put a narrow strip of masking tape around the tread of a wheelset when assembling the brake gear. After removal of the tape there is running clearance between the tyre and ths adjacent brake block.

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45 minutes ago, Western Star said:

Put a narrow strip of masking tape around the tread of a wheelset when assembling the brake gear. After removal of the tape there is running clearance between the tyre and ths adjacent brake block.

Nice idea - should produce just the right gap.

Does it prevent heat-transfer to the wheel rim?

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23 hours ago, Regularity said:

Does it prevent heat-transfer to the wheel rim?

Prevent? No.

 

Reduce? Probably.

 

When assembling the Exactoscale brake gear onto that manufacturer's metal underframes I progress as:-

 

1/ brake tumbler on to shaft through V-hanger;

2/ brake block to brake push rod on the bench;

3/ brake block / push rod to tumbler on the wagon;

4/ brake block to brake block hanger with block against tyre using 0.7mm wire through hanger / block / hanger;

5/ solder pin to hanger.

 

Step 5 is soldering a wire pin to a thin / narrow strip of metal so the heat transfer to the brake block is low.

 

regards, Graham

Edited by Western Star
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Thank you to everyone for all the input, it all helps.

I have Just fitted Ambis brake racks with home made brake handles.

I am near the end now but I have managed to misplace both the  axleboxes and the retaining straps. I put things down or in boxes and can never find them for ages. The joys of old age !

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8 hours ago, airnimal said:

I am near the end now but I have managed to misplace both the  axleboxes and the retaining straps. I put things down or in boxes and can never find them for ages. The joys of old age !

I was torn between 'craftsmanship/clever' and 'Friendly/supportive' but went for the former.  Been there done that.....

 

Jim

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Looks very nice each time I see a new wagon from you it makes me think I ought to do some more.

 

One query, are not the brakes the wrong way around? Both levers will release the brakes when pushed down.

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4 hours ago, N15class said:

Looks very nice each time I see a new wagon from you it makes me think I ought to do some more.

 

One query, are not the brakes the wrong way around? Both levers will release the brakes when pushed down.

Or the levers face the wrong way.

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