rob D2 Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 Well that's frustrating ! I'm just about to get my airbrush going for the first time - they do seem like a massive PITA though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted November 5, 2017 Author Tempfix Share Posted November 5, 2017 Well that's frustrating ! I'm just about to get my airbrush going for the first time - they do seem like a massive PITA though I'm sure it's something I've got wrong - temperature, pressure, humidity etc, but I've never had a problem with the gloss. I've had two tins of the Matt and can't seem to get it right. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted November 12, 2017 Author Tempfix Share Posted November 12, 2017 Good Evening. Time for a more positive update. A while ago you may have noticed that all the 101 vehicles had gained a hole in lieu of a destination blind. Time to add some. First, much jiggling around on computer to match colour, font, size etc. Then printed onto glossy computer paper, cut out very carefully and glued onto one side of a length of 2x2mm clear acrylic rod the right length for the gap. Glue this to square head clear LED, then wrap a piece of sellotape from one side of LED to the other over the blind, encapsulating the lot. Trim with scalpel, then wrap black vinyl electrical tape around the LED the other way to hold clear tape in place in the event of glue failing, and stop light bleed down into cab. Attach positive leg (no idea! trial and error) to the LED interior light strip, and the other via a 3.9k resistor to the purple wire of decoder. I'm using cheapy Hattons ones. Seem alright, 4 functions. All back together and view from the outside with F2 off. Aaaand finally. Turn on F2 and it looks terrible. OK, it doesn't really it looks quite good but the camera on my phone is terrible so I can't change the light balance. So you'll just have to take my word for it. Pretty happy with this all in all. From a fairly terrible old Lima I think it holds it's own next to the new Bachmann and was still less than half the price of the current discounts even with all these things I've thrown in. Now have to do all the dreaded laserglaze on its 121 DTS partner. Don't wait up. Rich 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted November 12, 2017 Author Tempfix Share Posted November 12, 2017 And only when I look at that picture above now do I realise that it has somehow avoided receiving lamp irons. There's always something! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted November 14, 2017 Author Tempfix Share Posted November 14, 2017 (edited) Good Evening, A laserglaze update, and time for some horrible extreme closeups. The class 121 DTS from the L211 hybrid set started life as a Lima 117 (well, bits of it did) so am using Shawplan Laserglaze to try to improve the look a bit. Previous Lima 117s have used the SE Finecast vacuum formed glazing, but this should (!) be better. I have used Laserglaze before, but on a Lima Mk3. The stuff produced for these is about 3mm thick so really easy to handle, the DMU version is wafer thin! So, attempt number 1 with Deluxe Glue and Glaze. Really not good. Glue was too stringy for this really. I admit to being pretty ham-fisted anyway, but I really struggled not leaving this everywhere even when applying with a cocktail stick. Also struggled to get the glazing flat in the hole. Attempt number 2. Slightly better. Happier with this, but still hoping to get better at it (given the number of windows left!). This time I filed the panes a bit more - this sounds counter-intuitive for flush glazing, but I wanted them to sit slightly deeper in the holes!! It's only by a fraction of a mm, but I think this will make it easier to get them in the same plane so to speak - very obvious that they're not if light catches them differently at all angles. I also went around the outside of the pane with a black marker to cut down the prism effect a little more, then dropped them in and touched a corner with a cocktail stick dipped in Humbrol clear acrylic varnish. Only a VERY tiny amount. Still a bit fingerprinty, but getting there. Picked up these tips on here somewhere but can't remember where now - thank you to whoever. I estimate it took about 5 minutes per pane and I don't see this getting quicker. There is an alternative of course. No? Rats. Rich Edited November 14, 2017 by Rich Papper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted November 19, 2017 Author Tempfix Share Posted November 19, 2017 Good Evening. Update not really worth a picture tonight. Have managed to complete one side of the 121 DTS with laserglaze. Am quite pleased with the look, but then had to sort out the other side which was my first attempt. Managed to get all the windows out and should be able to reuse them all, but then had to get rid of the remnants of Glue and Glaze out of the apertures. Various experiments, but best method proved to be very hot water and a cocktail stick. Took about an hour and a half, but got it all off. Some minor damage to paint in the apertures themselves, but bodyside is fine. Will go back and touch them in as I think the paler areas will stand out and make the side look as thick as it is. More soon. Rich PS Got fished in to Clive Mortimore's excellent page on DMU bits on here earlier and may have accidentally picked up a couple of eBay bargains. I know, I know, finish the pile! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted December 24, 2017 Author Tempfix Share Posted December 24, 2017 (edited) Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night. Keep smiling, and go easy on the chocolates. Rich Edited October 17, 2022 by Rich Papper Replace photos 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted December 28, 2017 Author Tempfix Share Posted December 28, 2017 (edited) Hello All, Back to destination blinds. Having satisfied myself with the 101 style, thoughts turn to the Derby middle window style as found on class 115, 117, 121 (and probably others). Most pressing for me is the 121 DTS that worked in L211 as I have already done it's class 101 partner. Initial thoughts were based around using the same size flat LEDs as used in them but they were about 5mm wide and the window is just over 7mm. Tried a piece of 2mm square clear acrylic rod, but didn't prism as well as I'd wanted. Then thought of getting a large round one and filing it flat, but experience of doing this before (once fitted door opening lights to a 158) suggested that I would snap the legs off through over handling long before I achieved the right shape. So: smaller flat LEDs. Managed to find some about 1mm x 3mm x 4mm. To the photos: Two side by side (carefully same way round so anode to cathode in the middle) superglued and then stuck to small piece of black vinyl electrical tape to avoid light bleed. Then stuck to a piece of plasticard - not good on the imperial measurements of these - about 0.5mm thick. Black tape folded up around them leaving the front face free. Then 0.5mm strip each side and a little wider at the bottom (ended up filing the bottom piece a little flatter after reference back to photos. Middle two legs soldered together as close as I dared, then cut off. Coat of grey paint for the back and sides. After regular tests with 9v battery (and resistor!) destination stuck to the front. Attached to interior lighting as before. Positive blue through the interior lighting strip, negative purple back to decoder. And body back on. And wait for it - let there be light! OK again you can't see it on here because my phone camera is terrible, but trust me on this. Think it looks better than the 101. And one from the side to show the completed laserglaze. All in all pretty happy with this one. Need to get the body off again and have a little shuffle of loose wires inside, but no big problem. Then some lenses for the marker lights and a small bit of weathering. So just need some more for the bubble car, perhaps the other bubble car to match, then the 115, perhaps the pair of 117s...... don't wait up. Rich Edited October 17, 2022 by Rich Papper Replace photos 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ess1uk Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 Great work on the DMUs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted January 19, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted January 19, 2018 (edited) On 29/12/2017 at 11:09, ess1uk said: Great work on the DMUs Very kind, thank you. Just a small update on here with the 115. As shown above I'd had a bit of a varnish disaster with this one. Not sure why (OK, probably not stiffing varnish enough) but ended up with a very chalky finish on these two bodies. After much head scratching decided to give them a quick once over with some Humbrol gloss acrylic varnish that I'd bought for fitting laserglaze. These (apologies for picture quality) are the results after five coats brush painted. Much happier with how they look. Going to weather them anyway but at least now they are starting the colour I intended them to be! As for the rest, L207 and L211 are awaiting windscreen wipers and a quick weathering before Yate show in a fortnight's time. These arrived from Dart Castings this morning and have had a first coat of black on the fret. Really not looking forward to trying to stick them on! L131 is awaiting a dusting of matt varnish, reglazing (at least this one will be quick - using original Hornby glazing) and then interior lighting and destination blinds. Probably not going to make it to Yate but will try. Have a good weekend folks. Rich PS Also received an ebay bargain DMU today. Thought so anyway, turns out to be in a right state. Only wanted it for parts so will use some bits. My son was running around with a bodyshell earlier that I haven't found again yet. Made him happy anyway, he's probably taken it in his cot for the night. Edited October 17, 2022 by Rich Papper Replace photos 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 Just read through all the posts. Some fantastic work on the DMUs. You should be proud of your achievements. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted January 27, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted January 27, 2018 (edited) On 19/01/2018 at 23:26, kintbury jon said: Just read through all the posts. Some fantastic work on the DMUs. You should be proud of your achievements. Very kind of you to say, but I'm sure like everyone else I have those that haven't turned out exactly as planned. My nemesis is pictured below. Got it out for a tinker this evening to see if I could coax it into life. Hornby 110 to 104 conversion, NSE of course. Others have written much better how to articles on this conversion on here so I'll spare you the details. Mine is mounted on a Bachmann 108 chassis, so should run like a Rolls Royce, but has never actually moved. I completed it before exhibiting at the Redditch show many years ago - very much a last minute job to get it complete. Got to the show, placed it on track and it immediately kangaroo'd across the layout and smashed into the buffers. Have taken it apart countless times, been through it with a multimeter until the air around me turns blue and rebuilt the circuit board twice but haven't yet won. In 10 years DCC I've only ever blown up 5 decoders, 4 of them have been in this beast! One day DMU... Rich Edited October 17, 2022 by Rich Papper 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted April 6, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted April 6, 2018 (edited) Latest tinkering. Any guesses? Rich Edited October 17, 2022 by Rich Papper Replace photos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Mike B Posted April 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2018 Loved reading through this Rich, and whilst these strange trains aren’t my cup of tea, I must say, you’ve done a cracking job and that destination blind is something else! I’ve also gained some useful modelling information too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted April 12, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted April 12, 2018 Loved reading through this Rich, and whilst these strange trains aren’t my cup of tea, I must say, you’ve done a cracking job and that destination blind is something else! I’ve also gained some useful modelling information too. Thanks! They are quite strange, but they have a certain character. I do do other things - I just haven't since I started this thread! I have several bits in the pipeline at the moment but have a bit of a backlog waiting for Spring to turn up so I can paint things in the shed. Then maybe some locos, wagons or coaching stock - and maybe even some HSTs! Rich 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted June 12, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted June 12, 2018 (edited) Good Evening, A quick update as it feels like it's been a while. Did finally get around to finishing the DMU vehicle above, most guessed correctly! A few modifications to wiring, additional pickups and DCC'd with Hattons chip. I know, I know - but it keeps him off mine (albeit temporarily). Then to prove there are some sensible things going on. Destination blinds production line has started up again. Awaiting painting. And finally: about 15 years ago I did the NR HST. Didn't fit in with anything I'd done before or since, but I liked it, so rule #1. The boy likes it. Mainly because it's the old Hornby power cars so goes like the clappers. So I thought I'd do him one. Problem is it's been a while and I can't remember how I did everything before. I have searched through Newbryford's excellent thread, but for the life of me I feel there is some level of detail I've missed and I can't quite put my finger on it.... Good night. Rich Edited October 17, 2022 by Rich Papper Replace photos 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted June 22, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted June 22, 2018 (edited) Hello Possible next project has seen a bit of work today (has been leapfrogged a few times!). One end stripped down as far as I could without breaking things. Is spending the night in IPA. This tends to ease the glue a bit too, so some further bits may yet come off to make the repaint a bit easier. Second part of the project will be the centre car. Others have posted much better conversions than this will end up being, so will spare you the swearing, but basically bits from Replica. Will need some thought as to couplings to allow lights to work. Might be a slow one, but will see how it goes. Have a good weekend folks. Rich Edited October 17, 2022 by Rich Papper Replace photos 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted September 19, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted September 19, 2018 (edited) Hello Have been playing with the inside of a Hornby HST this evening. Picked up one of the Valenta TTS packs in Swallow livery. To be honest I wasn't that bothered about the TTS sound, I was really just after the PCs in this livery and have been kicking myself since the last lot that I didn't pick some up that time. As discussed on the Hornby thread elsewhere, the TTS sound can be a little tinny. These also have the issue that they've tried to reproduce the turbo scream and it just all comes across a bit 'hissy'. Someone mentioned that there was a bass reflex speaker that would be a good replacement for the pre-fitted one which didn't require any surgery to the loco, so sold. Original speaker is bottom left. This is my idea of rewiring - cut red and black wires, attach new red wire to red wire, new black wire to black wire. Just about within my skill set. Now all I need to do is bring my 25 year old rake of Lima Mk3s up to this standard. How hard can it be? Rich Edited October 17, 2022 by Rich Papper Replace photos 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted September 23, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted September 23, 2018 (edited) A little tinkering with this this evening. Centre car for the thumper. Body missing some jumper cables and needing a little more filler here and there, but otherwise ready for some paint. Chassis needs couplings and through wiring. Rich Edited October 17, 2022 by Rich Papper Replace photos 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted September 26, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted September 26, 2018 (edited) Good Evening, A little tinker with the thumper this evening. Centre coach needs couplings. Found these from a trader at the DEMU Showcase event a couple of years ago (can't remember who, sorry). I think they're made by Symoba? Sort of a mini close coupling mechanism with a square bar hanging down onto which one fits one of a selection of different NEM pockets at the desired height. And with a bar coupling between it and the thumper. Plan is to make these ones like the electrical version that comes with the thumper. Still thinking on this. Two choices I can see - either some very small pieces of copper tape, or buy spare conductive couplings and wire them captive to the centre coach. That way I can remove it and run it as a two car with the original coupling. I suspect that whichever of these I choose will be characterised by a generous set of soldering iron burns and a rich variety of new swear words. First time coupled as a 3 car. Showing how close is close coupling. They don't actually quite touch, but there's only about a paper's width between them. Really should start painting the bodies now before winter sets in in the shed. Rich Edited October 17, 2022 by Rich Papper Replace photos 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Temeraire Posted September 26, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 26, 2018 Hi Rich When I made the centre car I’ve obtained a centre coach from the CEP unit to provide a chassis complete with the electrical connections. Might be worth a look on eBay. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted September 28, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted September 28, 2018 Hi Rich When I made the centre car I’ve obtained a centre coach from the CEP unit to provide a chassis complete with the electrical connections. Might be worth a look on eBay. Hi Ian, Thanks for that. I've been having a rummage around eBay with that in mind - probably having read about yours, but hadn't found any. I'm happy to have a go this way since I've already got all the bits. I did also think of picking up a whole 4 car set second hand and putting the other three and a half cars in the spares box! I suspect that would trigger an investigation from the boss. I do need to get on though - this has been sitting in bits for years and there are other things queuing up. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDG Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 Hi Rich Great work with these DMU's. For a centre car look on eBay for Bachmann class 411. There are several centre cars there. Hope this helps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted September 29, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted September 29, 2018 Hi Rich Great work with these DMU's. For a centre car look on eBay for Bachmann class 411. There are several centre cars there. Hope this helps Thank you, probably would have done. I think only searched for Bachmann 4CEP. I blame the small children and 80 hour a week job for my mental vagueness. I'm sure I used to be able to think! Of course now looking at that I'm thinking of all the departmental possibilities for the motor coaches... Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempfix Rich Papper Posted October 7, 2018 Author Tempfix Share Posted October 7, 2018 (edited) Not much to report tonight. Finally got back in the shed and got all the painting gear going again. Thumper has just had first coat of blue in the long, tedious and extremely masking tape heavy process of NSE application. Cold out there, but read recently on the Phoenix Paints site that it sprays best at low temperatures. Surprised me a bit, I had always assumed that it needed to be warmer for whatever thinner you were using to evaporate. Live and learn. Hopefully chassis will be ready and wired before it is finished. Drawing a bit of a blank with transfers for this at the moment but still looking. Have a good evening. Rich Edited October 7, 2018 by Rich Papper 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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