garethashenden Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 It’s just the angle that the picture was taken at. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted October 22, 2018 Share Posted October 22, 2018 An Update! The inside motion has mostly been assembled. It has been and interesting process. I've been following the instructions, but things have been slightly complicated by trying to fit this into an engine for which it wasn't designed to go in. The first problem I encountered was in fitting the cylinder block/motion bracket. The hornblocks were in the way of the slidebars. These were High Level Standard hornblocks, I replaced them with a pair of Spacesavers. This seemed to work, although I have just discovered it didn't, more on that later. The next problem was the CSB wire. This just couldn't get through without major cutting to the motion brackets. So that was set aside for a while. I decided that the best option would be to compensate the front axle, rather than spring it. Martin Finney's kits are all designed for compensation and the cylinder block end includes a mounting point for a compensation rod. On to the crank axle. The casting for the cranks were cleaned up and the axle holes enlarged slightly to fix the axle. The other bits, eccentrics and eccentric sheaths, were fitted and tired in place. It fitted, so I disassembled it, carefully added silver solder, and put it back together. I took it outside and used a torch to melt the solder. I suspect the 3C weather didn't help, but it worked well none the less. I cleaned it up, thought it could use a bit more solder, added some, and resoldered it. The axle then was cut and cleaned up. I fitted the axle to the chassis, and I tried it with the connecting rods and crossheads. I immediately ran into problems, quite literally. The sides of the connecting rods, where they attach to the crossheads, hit the hornblock sides. The next problem was that ends of the eccentrics hit the motion bracket, the bracket was too close to the axle. So the motion bracket assembly has to move. This brings the story up to date. I find myself needing. To make some fairly substantial modifications to the chassis, moving the bracket and doing something about the hornblocks. I've managed to find some Comet? hornblocks that fit 6mm openings in the frames, rather than in separate etched hornguides. This gives them an advantage in this situation, they are far narrower than the alternatives. While I'm changing the front pair, it makes sense to change the rest as well and fit compensation to the back two axles at the same time. Having a compensation and springing hybrid system seemed like a bad idea, so the springing will go. In the morning. I’ll add some pictures then too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassey Posted October 22, 2018 Share Posted October 22, 2018 (edited) An Update! The inside motion has mostly been assembled. It has been and interesting process. I've been following the instructions, but things have been slightly complicated by trying to fit this into an engine for which it wasn't designed to go in. The first problem I encountered was in fitting the cylinder block/motion bracket. The hornblocks were in the way of the slidebars. These were High Level Standard hornblocks, I replaced them with a pair of Spacesavers. This seemed to work, although I have just discovered it didn't, more on that later. The next problem was the CSB wire. This just couldn't get through without major cutting to the motion brackets. So that was set aside for a while. I decided that the best option would be to compensate the front axle, rather than spring it. Martin Finney's kits are all designed for compensation and the cylinder block end includes a mounting point for a compensation rod. On to the crank axle. The casting for the cranks were cleaned up and the axle holes enlarged slightly to fix the axle. The other bits, eccentrics and eccentric sheaths, were fitted and tired in place. It fitted, so I disassembled it, carefully added silver solder, and put it back together. I took it outside and used a torch to melt the solder. I suspect the 3C weather didn't help, but it worked well none the less. I cleaned it up, thought it could use a bit more solder, added some, and resoldered it. The axle then was cut and cleaned up. I fitted the axle to the chassis, and I tried it with the connecting rods and crossheads. I immediately ran into problems, quite literally. The sides of the connecting rods, where they attach to the crossheads, hit the hornblock sides. The next problem was that ends of the eccentrics hit the motion bracket, the bracket was too close to the axle. So the motion bracket assembly has to move. This brings the story up to date. I find myself needing. To make some fairly substantial modifications to the chassis, moving the bracket and doing something about the hornblocks. I've managed to find some Comet? hornblocks that fit 6mm openings in the frames, rather than in separate etched hornguides. This gives them an advantage in this situation, they are far narrower than the alternatives. While I'm changing the front pair, it makes sense to change the rest as well and fit compensation to the back two axles at the same time. Having a compensation and springing hybrid system seemed like a bad idea, so the springing will go. In the morning. I’ll add some pictures then too. What width frame spacers are you using? Edit: having reread the thread, I see you are using the P4 spacers. Why not try something wider? Martin Finney's kits use the old fashioned flexichas bearings in slots rather than hornblocks which gives more room between the frames for the valve gear. I am currently building an 1854 chassis with valve gear which is how I know. But for my next Dean Goods I am planning on using the Comet sprung horn guides with the Comet chassis. IIRC, in an old MRJ Compendium, someone got his working in OO; so it is possible. Edited October 22, 2018 by Brassey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted October 23, 2018 Author Share Posted October 23, 2018 Gareth’s progress with the working inside motion for the BG 1076 Buffalo is making me feel very guilty about the lack of progress with track and the layout. Even no 1 son is demanding I start building steam engines (unspecified type) rather than finish the track work or BG wagons that are on the workbench... Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 Gareth’s progress with the working inside motion for the BG 1076 Buffalo is making me feel very guilty about the lack of progress with track and the layout. Even no 1 son is demanding I start building steam engines (unspecified type) rather than finish the track work or BG wagons that are on the workbench... Duncan Would he like an E2 in an unprotoypical blue livery? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted October 23, 2018 Author Share Posted October 23, 2018 He seems to appreciate god’s wonderful railway above all others - can’t think why. The bed time story (at his request while no1 daughter was banished to the landing for anti social behaviour) was about Duck meeting the City of Truro (loco not place in case you were wondering). D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted October 23, 2018 Author Share Posted October 23, 2018 Mind you at the Isle of Wight steam railway today he was excited about black engines ( the 2mt 2-6-2t) not green ones (the Austerity ‘Royal Engineer’)... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 (edited) Managed to get some time on the layout... Worked on the folding legs. But also started adding check rails. Duncan Edited November 18, 2018 by drduncan 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 More progress yesterday on fitting check rails. However, one of the existing ones had to be replaced as it wasn’t checking all the required crossings. I’ve also now got lots of cosmetic chairs to add, a job almost as dull as threading them on to rail. Originally I had left out alternating chairs where the check rail was to go as I was dubious about a trimmed chair having a large enough footprint to allow the glue to get a good purchase, but it turns out the trimmed chairs are fine. Duncan 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 More work on the diamond crossing this evening. I also started the laborious job of adding cosmetic chairs to the diamond crossing. While glue was drying I also added another of the check rails to the points. Progress might be slow but at least there is something to report! DrDuncan 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted December 24, 2018 Author Share Posted December 24, 2018 Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to you all. Duncan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold wenlock Posted December 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 25, 2018 Merry Christmas to you and yours Duncan! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 After a break in progress due to visiting in-laws (whose rock bottom view of me could apparently be made worse by the knowledge I ‘play with toy trains’) and a few days at my folks. I have got back to working on the seemingly never ending task of track building, ‘aided’ again by my junior assistant under plate layer, no 1 son, Teddy. First job - and long overdue - was painting the unstained replacement sleepers with wood stain. Next was the last check rail on the diamond crossing. And on the loop to diamond point. First the narrow one. And then the broad one The first of two check rails in the common rail The second common rail check rail 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 And half the check rails installed on the main to loop point. I also managed to nick the top of a finger with my scalpel and getting butanone in it brings several tears to the eye! D 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold kipford Posted January 1, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 1, 2019 Tweezers and paintbrush = No Butanone on finger 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 True, the problem was when putting some gentle pressure on recalcitrant chairs while the glue caught... D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 Or peeling off the BG check gauge which is tight on BH rail as it prefers baulk Road apparently. D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted January 9, 2019 Author Share Posted January 9, 2019 Mixed progress over the last week. On Thursday evening while up at the South Hants club rooms I laboriously added teeny tiny plasticard rivets to various BG wagons under construction. Fortunately I only did about 90 mins worth (which seemed painfully few rivets anyway) as I was loosing the will to live. There has to be a quicker and better way to do rivets than cubes of plastic. At the weekend, with the first module of track nearing completion, I decided I really needed to get the baseboard legs sorted. Installed one set, checked the folding braces worked perfectly and then found that I had put the braces in the wrong place and they’d foul the legs at the other end of the board when installed. Managed to take everything apart agin before the Resin W set like concrete. So 2nd attempt to get it right, time permitting, this weekend. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted January 10, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2019 Have you looked at Archers Rivets? Available from Historex. Sorry I am unable to give a link, you will need to select brands, manufacturers, Archers and scroll down a fair way to find the surface details section, there are several different sheets. PS. Don't get side tracked. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 I haven’t. Are they good and easy to use? D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted January 11, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 11, 2019 I haven’t. Are they good and easy to use? D Like using transfers, except they have bits of resin in to form the rivet or bolt head and as you will see there are other sorts like welding runs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 I’ve ordered some. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 As well as working on the kayout legs (which now seem to work, fingers crossed), I picked up a pick of exactoscale slide chairs and have been fitted to the loop trap and the loop to diamond point. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 Worked on the legs. You can see the split hinges that are used to allow the legs to fold twice and thus fit under the baseboard. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted February 8, 2019 Author Share Posted February 8, 2019 A better view showing how the legs fold to get the chest high viewing level legs under a 1m long base board... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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