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:dance_mini: Plywood has arrived at Teaky Towers.

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It wasn't delivered by a botoxed bloke on a motorbike wearing leather trousers by chance?

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2 hours ago, chris p bacon said:

It wasn't delivered by a botoxed bloke on a motorbike wearing leather trousers by chance?

I thought you were too busy to be out doing deliveries?

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On 01/08/2019 at 08:57, Harlequin said:

Can we ask who you bought from, in the end? And were the delivery costs reasonable or ridiculous?

 

In case you're interested Phil.  I queried some details via email not long after delivery and amongst the documentation supplied as part of the answer it seems that, in order to satisfy my request for non-Russian FSC plywood, Johnsons placed a special order and the plywood came from Latham's.

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I will be using hand built points and SMP track.  For rail joints I intend to use the nice PECO bullhead fishplates and Peco N gauge ones in the hidden areas.  In the past I have only used Hornby set track and Peco Streamline code 100 where the choice of fishplates was simple.  What do people use with bullhead rail where an insulated break is required?

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1 hour ago, teaky said:

I will be using hand built points and SMP track.  For rail joints I intend to use the nice PECO bullhead fishplates and Peco N gauge ones in the hidden areas.  In the past I have only used Hornby set track and Peco Streamline code 100 where the choice of fishplates was simple.  What do people use with bullhead rail where an insulated break is required?

Rob, I use Peco code 75 00 fishplates if there is enough room or N gauge ones if things are a bit tight. You have to be careful they don't slip off the foot of the rail when laying the track. Once it's all in place they're fine.

 

A good alternative for metal fishplates in the hidden areas, if you can find any, are Minitrix N gauge ones, which have an upstanding flange that sits nicely in the web of the rail.

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10 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Rob, I use Peco code 75 00 fishplates if there is enough room or N gauge ones if things are a bit tight. You have to be careful they don't slip off the foot of the rail when laying the track. Once it's all in place they're fine.

 

A good alternative for metal fishplates in the hidden areas, if you can find any, are Minitrix N gauge ones, which have an upstanding flange that sits nicely in the web of the rail.

I have just found that Gaugemaster sell the Minitrix fishplates but they are relatively pricey compared to the Peco ones and I'll need lots.  If the standard Peco code 75 fishplates work for you then I'll go with those for the hidden areas because they will be easier to fit.  Thanks.

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19 minutes ago, teaky said:

I have just found that Gaugemaster sell the Minitrix fishplates but they are relatively pricey compared to the Peco ones and I'll need lots.  If the standard Peco code 75 fishplates work for you then I'll go with those for the hidden areas because they will be easier to fit.  Thanks.

Fair enough. I bought a load years ago so I haven't kept in touch with current prices.

 

To be clear, my first paragraph referred to insulating fishplates not metal ones.

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Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, teaky said:

I will be using hand built points and SMP track.  [snip]  What do people use with bullhead rail where an insulated break is required?

It's a shame the Peco don't yet produce anything so how about 3D printing yourself a set?

 

I.e. Make a model that matches the Peco product, including boltheads and whatever other details you want, combine a number of them onto a sprue and send it off to Shapeways to be printed.

 

???

 

Edited by Harlequin
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19 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Fair enough. I bought a load years ago so I haven't kept in touch with current prices.

 

To be clear, my first paragraph referred to insulating fishplates not metal ones.

Ah, good job you clarified that.  I had misread it.  Thanks.

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12 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

It's a shame the Peco don't yet produce anything so how about 3D printing yourself a set?

 

I.e. Make a model that matches the Peco product, including boltheads and whatever other details you want, combine a number of them onto a sprue and send it off to Shapeways to be printed.

 

???

 

I think Ambis have done that already.

 

3 minutes ago, Paul Cram said:

Ambis do 3d printed acrylic ones

Funnily enough, I was just looking at those on the Ambis website.

 

They will take a little more effort to fit but look to be worth it for the visible areas.  Thanks.

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30 minutes ago, teaky said:

I think Ambis have done that already.

 

Funnily enough, I was just looking at those on the Ambis website.

 

They will take a little more effort to fit but look to be worth it for the visible areas.  Thanks.

 

I've used C&L plastic ones, also cut in half as cosmetic ones, I don't rely on them for holding the track in alignment, if it's well stuck down it shouldn't move.

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On ‎06‎/‎07‎/‎2018 at 17:19, teaky said:

I like the dust-minimising aspect of solid floors so I opted for laminate flooring.

I will have a railway room to floor (soon hopefully) and I want a solid floor too.  I'm concerned about the effects of solder splashes, dropping the iron hot end down or knives sharp end down on vinyl flooring.  Is your laminate real wood, or just photographed wood with a vinyl covering?

Thanks,  Paul.

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1 hour ago, 5BarVT said:

I will have a railway room to floor (soon hopefully) and I want a solid floor too.  I'm concerned about the effects of solder splashes, dropping the iron hot end down or knives sharp end down on vinyl flooring.  Is your laminate real wood, or just photographed wood with a vinyl covering?

Thanks,  Paul.

I went for this one.  Not real wood but reasonably heavy duty.

 

Obviously, at this stage I can't yet say how well it will cope with wear and tear.  I have dropped a few things on it with no visible damage.  It is a hard material and resists dents much better than solid timber flooring but then timber just wears marks as part of the patina of age.  I'd expect it to cope with knives because it would be easy to fill and colour any damage.  I have repaired some damage to a different colour of the same brand of flooring in a bedroom and you'd be hard pressed to spot it.  I have no idea regarding solder splashes but it would probably depend on the size of the damaged area.  It is possible to replace a plank if you keep some spares, although it is a bit of a faff if it is in the middle of the room.  You could always choose a burnt wood effect laminate. :jester:

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Put some old bits of carpet down in the workplace areas, I knocked a small can of Humbrol paint over on it a couple of months ago.

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:paint: For Sale: Large pile of top quality birch sawdust.  (I reckon there's about £20's worth if you stick it back together into a sheet.) :scratchhead:

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Despite life getting in the way, as it does, plus some (more) replanning due to change of mind, I am slowly making progress on the baseboards.  I am probably only about half way around the room but the boards completed so far are the more complex ones.  That being said, they are just stacked up at present awaiting a coat of paint.  I decided to give everything a coat of emulsion.  Not strictly necessary but it might hide some of my wood butchery and because it is a light colour the underside will be easier to see when wiring.

 

I haven't tackled the storage yet and that will involve fiddling with drawer runners etc. to make a traverser.  Then there are some infill sections, a long curved main line section, a viaduct, legs, fascia ... oh crumbs!

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No idea how I missed this, but just spent some enjoyable time watching your loft take shape. Those steps look like an accident waiting to happen for an old man with size 12 feet.....:D

 

Glad to see another LNER layout on RMweb....:good:

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1 hour ago, teaky said:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_paint.gif For Sale: Large pile of top quality birch sawdust.  (I reckon there's about £20's worth if you stick it back together into a sheet.) https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_scratch_one-s_head.gif


Any idea on postage costs? :jester:

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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3 hours ago, gordon s said:

No idea how I missed this, but just spent some enjoyable time watching your loft take shape. Those steps look like an accident waiting to happen for an old man with size 12 feet.....https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_biggrin.png

 

Glad to see another LNER layout on RMweb....https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_good.gif

Thanks Gordon.

 

The stairs aren't as bad in reality as they appear in the picture.  The area where you place your foot is no different than on an ordinary staircase.  It only really becomes a problem if you're half way up and realise you've forgotten something and want to turn around or if you have arthritic knees and need to place both feet on each step.  No problems so far with my size elevens but taking two steps at a time is definitely out of the question.

 

It's a pity you've found this thread.  I won't be able to take credit for the pointwork now! :nea_mini:

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