RAY NORWOOD Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) With the fast growth of the LSWR's London area goods traffic in the early years of the twentieth century, the company decided to constructa modern gravitational marshlling yard at Feltham. This location gave excellent access to the company main lines as well as direct links to the GWR and LNWR, And to the MR,GNR and get via the North London line. Although completion of Feltham hardware delayed by WW1, it was completed soon after. Meanwhile Urie had designed four very large stunting tanks based on his S15 goods 4-6-0s except for utilising a somewhat smaller boiler. HAVING eight-coupled wheels of 5'1" diameter, they were clearly intended mainly for hump stunting duties.although they were tried out on other duties around the system , most of there life was spent allocated at the new shed at Feltham. They were massive locomotives, weighing in at 95 tons and were by far most powerful locomotives on the LSWR. In early ST days, Maunsell gave consideration to building more locomotives to this design, but decided to develop his Z Class 0-8-0, so the G16 class remained numerically small at only four. Originally it had intended to use them for transfer and trip workings so superheating was provided. Originally, of course , these were the Eastleigh design of superheating , but in later years these were replaced by the Maunseel pattern. This turned out to be a hindrance to the stunting activities and most of the transfer and trip workings were were assigned to the similar H16 class of 4-6-2 tanks. The G16 and H16 classes shared many components of the same design, such as boilers and fireboxes. The G16s, along with the T14s and H16s, were the widest steam locomotives in Britain. The lack of maintenance for most locomotives during WW.2 meant that such massive and reliable machines as the G16s continue their hard work even in very run-down condition. Inevitably , the introduction of the ubiquitous 0-6-0 diesel electric Shunter at Feltham in the 1950s made the G16s redundant. They were used occasionally on empty stock and van trains, from various depots such as Guildford, but these duties were limited in numbers and further electrification in the Southern Region meant that there was a surplus of locomotives in the late1950s. One G16 was withdrawn in 1959, another in 1960 and the final two in December 1962. None has been preserved. TECHNICAL DETAILS Introduced. 1921 Driving wheels. 5ft 1ins Bogie wheels. 3ft 7ins Length. 42ft 10.1/4ins Cylinders (2). 22in x 28in Boiler pressure. 180ib sq in Weight. 95 tons 2 cwt Coal. 3 tons 10 cwt Tractive effort. 34,poo Power classification. 8-F Enough of the History. I will be building 30495. As it was the last to be scraped. I got a High Levels 90:1 gearbox with a mashima 1020 motor. The Wheels are from Markits a G16 wheel set. It will be perfect loco to put on Feltham Road. The motor and gearbox completed. All the kit parts Edited February 10, 2019 by RAY NORWOOD 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbowilts Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Ray, what make is the kit? Tim T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 Hi Tim Thanks for the reply. It is a PDK kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Hmmm. It looks a lot more complicated than the Golden Arrow Productions resin one I did! With the proper chassis it will be a bit more accurate. I'll keep watching your progress with great interest. Good luck with the build. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 One of my favourite locos Ray, good luck keep the pics coming... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 That does seem a very small motor for a very big loco. Surely something more appropriate will fit? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 That does seem a very small motor for a very big loco. Surely something more appropriate will fit? It is running a very low gearbox 90:1 plus plenty of room for a sound decoder and speeker. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Good luck, I saw the last 2 at Feltham, but had no camera at the time, it'll be interesting to see the model. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 The chassis build so far. The chassis was all in one piece, had to fold up the two sides and solder three spacers in. All four driving axles are compensated, soldered the axle bearings onto the four compensation bars and the bars fitted on by brass wire with a spring in the centre to hold the two compenstion bars against the chassis sides. The four bars are a temporary axles, one of them is holding the motor and gearbox in place. The cylinders was hold down and soldered into the fold for strength and I soldered a 2mm axle bearings into the hole for the piston rod, the cylinders sides was bent to shape and soldered in place the cylinder heads and valve heads was superglue into place. This it so far. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 following with interest! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Today's update. I folded the front motion bracket and soldered that in place, then folded the main motion bracket then soldered that in place. I then soldered the brake hanger rods in place. Before completing with the brakes. I have temporary fitted the driving wheels in place then fitted the pick up's using pcb and phosphor bronze wire on all driving wheels. the next job is to fit the brakes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) Today's update. I folded the front motion bracket and soldered that in place, then folded the main motion bracket then soldered that in place. I then soldered the brake hanger rods in place. Before completing with the brakes. I have temporary fitted the driving wheels in place then fitted the pick up's using pcb and phosphor bronze wire on all driving wheels.I soldered the sand box's on the rear of the frames. The next job is to fit the brakes. Edited January 25, 2018 by RAY NORWOOD 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 Today's update. I have just striped the chassis of it's wheels to give it two coats of mat black paint. The bogie was made up in the ussual way folding the two sides down and soldered the folds to gi e more strength,and soldered the wheel bearings in place. I forgot a photo of the pickups on the last update. Pickups on all eight driving wheels 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 Update on the Urie G16 4-8-0 loco All the brake gear is soldered in place and the balance weights glued on the wheels. Crank pin and the axle end plates screwed onto the wheels and then put on the coupling rods and crank pin washers soldered on, I put a piece of paper on the crank pins after the coupling rods then soldered them on and then pulled the paper out, it leaves a small gap between the rods and the crank pin washers and also stops the solder running onto the cranks, other wise it will lock every thing up. The valve gear I used pins to put them together, the same way as I done with the rods, with a bite of paper. Temperly wired the motor to see if it runs ok. I will put a sound decoder in later. Got to paint the brake gear, and put some metal blackening for nickel silver on the coupling rods and valve gear for the weathering. Now it's on to the body. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Today's update. I had to bend the running plate to shape to go with the valance then soldered the valance to the running plate.then I soldered the buffer plate, the next job was to solder the cab rear onto the running plate then soldered a cab side and next soldered the cab floor to the other cab side and then soldered this assembly to the other cab side and to the running plate and to the cab rear. Next is the cab front. On the valance there are strengthening stripes to give the running play strength, they will be cut off latter in the build. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Update on the Urie The boiler was already rolled so I had to solder the the ends together. I then soldered the inside ring of the smoke box and the outer rings, then soldered the smoke box end plate, I had to file the end plate diameter down to the same as the boiler then soldered the outer ring with the rivets puched out, on making sure it goes flush with the end plate. Then had to mark out we're the boiler bands go and solder them in place. Then soldered the boiler to the main frame and front of the cab. The next job is the tanks. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Even on the basic shell, you can see just how chunky the G16s were. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Today's update. Had to make up the front running plate by bending the two sides up and solder the valance in place, then I soldered the buffer plate on, and then soldered this assembly to the main running plate. Then I soldered the front frames in place. Next I assembled the tanks, I soldered the top and the ends to the outer side of the tanks then soldered the inner side in place. I then soldered the tanks onto the main running plate. The front runnings plate assembly in place The tanks assembled I have put some lead inside the tanks. The G16 as it is at the end of today. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 4, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 4, 2018 Lovely job Ray, Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 I soldered the bunker sides on then rolled the top of the back and soldered that in place, that is all of the main parts built now is the detailing. I soldered the smoke box front outer layer on and then glued the smoke box door on and fitted the dart on, and the tool box on the running plate in front of the smoke box. Before going any further I cut the valance strentherning bits off with an old craft knife blade then I filed the valance smooth, I then fitted the boiler back into the cab. Then I fitted the reversing gear on the running plate in front of the tanks I also fitted the chimney and the dome. I took the photo before fitting the lamp irons. As she is looking at the moment. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Were the securing "dogs" at the base of the smokebox door that thick? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Were the securing "dogs" at the base of the smokebox door that thick? Having a look at this photo of a G16, (wikipedia photo so should be ok to post), shows they certainly are prominent but possibly the cast ones are a tad over scale, more than anything though I think they are a bit too long? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 13, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 13, 2018 Good work Ray, make an impressive model. Did you ever crew one of these beasties? Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Good work Ray, make an impressive model. Did you ever crew one of these beasties? Cheers, Dave. Thanks for the comment Dave Sorry the last one was scraped in 1962 (30495) and I started at Feltham in 1963. The K10 is looking good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 I have been put the black valves on and steps at the back of the bunker and lamp irons, vacuum pipe and the steam heating pipe just to put the handrail on the back of the bunker and will be the back finished. I have also put the handrails on at the cab door ways, then I put the Firebox drain plugs on then the the steam injector valves and the whistle, I have put the safety valves scowling on but I am not sure about it so I will replace it with the won from Markits that I have ordered today. I fitted the lifting rings on top of the tanks and the inspection plate plates in top of the tanks. Just got to put the steps on and then it's getting it ready for the spray shop. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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