Warren Branch

[chuffinghell]

2 hours ago, Jamie24 said:

Have you any friends or any fellow members on here got an Anycubic Photon 3D printer you could try out? The print quality is AMAZING, you won’t see any lines like on the angle irons. Might be worth investing in one yourself?
Printing thickness layers are only 25 microns (0.025mm) using a LCD screen & UV curing. They are about £350 and also now produce a separate (photocuring) wash & print machine about £125. Personally, I think very good value for money for what level of detail they can produce. I think it will better show off your modelling efforts and do the level of detail you design into each CAD a massive level of justice, can easily be used for so many scratch builds and other things you would use for you layout! 
 

 

Jamie

@Harlequin has one but I’m not cheeky enough to ask, plus I believe there is additional work that needs to be done (supports added etc) and I wouldn’t want to distract him from his own modelling.

 

If my boss is visited by three ghosts on Christmas Eve and I get a bonus I might invest in one

[Harlequin]

3 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

@Harlequin has one but I’m not cheeky enough to ask, plus I believe there is additional work that needs to be done (supports added etc) and I wouldn’t want to distract him from his own modelling.

 

If my boss is visited by three ghosts on Christmas Eve and I get a bonus I might invest in one

 

I wish I had the time and the mojo to get a print that works! I've done two of the AA6 body so far. The first was great in terms of detail but my printer wasn't calibrated right and it was too big.

(Sorry, not a very good photo.)

 

The second print was the right size (I think) but all warped because I tried to reduce the number of supports.

 

I'll try again this weekend, since the weather's decided to put summer on hold...

 

Jamie is spot on about getting a Photon for yourself - they are affordable and you'd be able to do great things with it, Chris. Dealing with the resin and cleaning up isn't too messy if you're organised and it's pretty easy to get to grips with the software.

 

Top tips: Put the printer somewhere dark while it's printing to keep the prints really sharp and don't own a cat. As soon as a print is out of the machine every stray cat hair around heads towards it like a heat-seeking missile and sticks itself on!

 

[Jamie24]

@Harlequin Have you tried adding internal bracing (remove after printing completed & cured) to your structures & printing them at an angle? From what I have seen & read regarding tips and tricks this gives you the best print quality, stability & less prone to distortion. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the image...

[chuffinghell]

55 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

 

I wish I had the time and the mojo to get a print that works! I've done two of the AA6 body so far. The first was great in terms of detail but my printer wasn't calibrated right and it was too big.

(Sorry, not a very good photo.)

 

The second print was the right size (I think) but all warped because I tried to reduce the number of supports.

 

I'll try again this weekend, since the weather's decided to put summer on hold...

 

Jamie is spot on about getting a Photon for yourself - they are affordable and you'd be able to do great things with it, Chris. Dealing with the resin and cleaning up isn't too messy if you're organised and it's pretty easy to get to grips with the software.

 

Top tips: Put the printer somewhere dark while it's printing to keep the prints really sharp and don't own a cat. As soon as a print is out of the machine every stray cat hair around heads towards it like a heat-seeking missile and sticks itself on!

 

I’ve since done a revision with internal walls as I assumed they wouldn’t be strong enough unsupported

 

Im happy to send you a drawing but I don’t like to distract others from their own projects

[chuffinghell]

27 minutes ago, Jamie24 said:

@Harlequin Have you tried adding internal bracing (remove after printing completed & cured) to your structures & printing them at an angle? From what I have seen & read regarding tips and tricks this gives you the best print quality, stability & less prone to distortion. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the image...

I don’t have 3D modelling software, although I do technical drawings for a living my works is in the dark age still using 2D cad

 

All the drawings I do for 3D printing are done on TinkerCAD which is quite a basic and limited but of software. Not sure adding supports would be that easy on TinkerCAD

[Jamie24]

Its all done with the software included with the Anycubic Photon printers.. Have a look at some of the Youtube videos / reviews Chris 

[chuffinghell]

Looking at photos it appears that the rivets on the Loriot are only on the ends from where the curve starts, it also looks like there are a couple of tie down lugs

 

 

So I’ve attempted to replicate this

 

 

Good enough for OO gauge

[Harlequin]

2 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

Looking at photos it appears that the rivets on the Loriot are only on the ends from where the curve starts, it also looks like there are a couple of tie down lugs

 

 

So I’ve attempted to replicate this

 

 

Good enough for OO gauge

It looks beautiful!

I got a couple of old Wrenn Loriots from eBay with the idea of tweaking them up but they have remained at the back of the cupboard so far...

 

[chuffinghell]

Just now, Harlequin said:

It looks beautiful!

I got a couple of old Wrenn Loriots from eBay with the idea of tweaking them up but they have remained at the back of the cupboard so far...

 

Thanks Phil

It sounds daft but I decided to do the ‘L’ because I like the elegant curving at each end

 

Plus the axle box and springs are obscured so I didn’t have to worry about getting those details 100% correct 

[Harlequin]

1 hour ago, Jamie24 said:

@Harlequin Have you tried adding internal bracing (remove after printing completed & cured) to your structures & printing them at an angle? From what I have seen & read regarding tips and tricks this gives you the best print quality, stability & less prone to distortion. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the image...

 

I think the van body is best printed upright so that the layer artefacts on the surface are parallel with the planking and so look more natural.

My warped print was done at and angle and maybe I should have added some internal supports.

 

51 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

I’ve since done a revision with internal walls as I assumed they wouldn’t be strong enough unsupported

 

Im happy to send you a drawing but I don’t like to distract others from their own projects

 

The walls are strong enough on their own. Internal bracing would help with angled prints but I'm going back to upright for the next attempt. On the other hand, the empty shell allows the Oxford interior to be dropped in.

 

I'd love to have an update if you've got one. Could I have the original CAD file??? If I could load it into Sketchup (hopefully) I could tweak things like the diameters of the screw fixing bosses and maybe remove some of the floor to try to get the fit onto the chassis easier. (Removed floor - another reason to be able put the Oxford interior back in.)

 

I promise I won't use the CAD file for anything without your permission. Edit: And I'll send back any changes I make.

 

Edited July 25, 2020 by Harlequin

[chuffinghell]

14 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

I think the van body is best printed upright so that the layer artefacts on the surface are parallel with the planking and so look more natural.

My warped print was done at and angle and maybe I should have added some internal supports.

 

 

The walls are strong enough on their own. Internal bracing would help with angled prints but I'm going back to upright for the next attempt. On the other hand, the empty shell allows the Oxford interior to be dropped in.

 

I'd love to have an update if you've got one. Could I have the original CAD file??? If I could load it into Sketchup (hopefully) I could tweak things like the diameters of the screw fixing bosses and maybe remove some of the floor to try to get the fit onto the chassis easier. (Removed floor - another reason to be able put the Oxford interior back in.)

 

I promise I won't use the CAD file for anything without your permission. Edit: And I'll send back any changes I make.

 

In TinkerCAD you can export the file as STL, OBJ, or SVG is either of those suitable?

 

Its an online program so you don’t actually save the files to your own drive

 

Ive spent the last ten years trying to convince my employer that Solidworks is the way to go but money talks 

 

I might still have the 2D version I did saved on a stick somewhere that could be sent as a .DWG or .DXF

 

 

Edited July 25, 2020 by chuffinghell

[Harlequin]

7 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

In TinkerCAD you can export the file as STL, OBJ, or SVG is either of those suitable?

 

Its an online program so you don’t actually save the files to your own drive

 

Oh, I see...

 

Can you try OBJ, please? (SVG is a 2D vector format.)

 

[chuffinghell]

25 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

Oh, I see...

 

Can you try OBJ, please? (SVG is a 2D vector format.)

 

I’ll see what I can do

If you go on www.tinkercad.com you’ll see just how basic it is, I’m amazed I’ve been able to do what I have to be honest

[chuffinghell]

Well as @Stubby47 said it does look much better will a couple of coats of colour (Vallejo USAF Grey)

 

 

I’m hoping to get some transfers made soon

 

I’ve got some pressfix that maybe suitable but I don’t like the inability to adjust the position like you can with waterslides and methfix isn't a good idea on acrylic paint

[chuffinghell]

When I get around to doing the transfers should the G and W be 25” or 16”

 

I’ve not received the book I’ve ordered yet so the answer may be in there but if anyone knows I’d appreciate the help

 

I assumed it was 25” but I’m probably wrong

 

Edited July 25, 2020 by chuffinghell

[MrWolf]

If your layout is late 1930s based then 16" letters would be a safer bet. 

[lezz01]

Can't help you with this Chris.

Being in the MR camp the only three things I know for sure about the GWR is that they were the enemy, the NHS was based on what the GW did in Swindon and they should never have believed a word that Brunel said. Not so much blue sky thinking as pie in the sky thinking. Don't get me wrong here I do have a soft spot for the BG it's just that given the utter chaos the break of gauge caused at Gloucester and the total failure of the B&E atmospheric concept it's quite clear that Brunel wasn't the great railway engineer he thought he was but then eagle eyed hindsight is a wonderful thing isn't it!? To me the real genius was Gooch, his BG engines were outstanding. 

Regards Lez.    

[chuffinghell]

7 hours ago, MrWolf said:

If your layout is late 1930s based then 16" letters would be a safer bet. 

Thank you @Miss Prism has also confirmed this

 

I'm glad I asked now because I’d have done it wrong, I don’t mind the odd inaccuracies but this would have been a 9” one (oo er missus)

 

Edited July 26, 2020 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

7 hours ago, lezz01 said:

Can't help you with this Chris.

Being in the MR camp the only three things I know for sure about the GWR is that they were the enemy, 

I’m beginning to wish I’d gone for BR instead of GWR it would be so much easier 

[richbrummitt]

On 25/07/2020 at 14:10, chuffinghell said:

In TinkerCAD you can export the file as STL, OBJ, or SVG is either of those suitable?

 

Its an online program so you don’t actually save the files to your own drive

 

Ive spent the last ten years trying to convince my employer that Solidworks is the way to go but money talks 

 

I might still have the 2D version I did saved on a stick somewhere that could be sent as a .DWG or .DXF

 

 

 

Onshape might be a good option to pitch to your employer? 

[Harlequin]

Onshape never worked for me.

 

Sketchup is also online now, of course. Still a beautiful bit of software, IMHO.

 

[chuffinghell]

26 minutes ago, richbrummitt said:

 

Onshape might be a good option to pitch to your employer? 

He’d only be interested if it’s free 

 

Plus he’d have to upgrade my computer because my calculator has better processing capabilities

 

Edited July 26, 2020 by chuffinghell

[richbrummitt]

28 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

He’d only be interested if it’s free 

 

Plus he’d have to upgrade my computer because my calculator has better processing capabilities

 

 

It's only free if you're prepared to have your work on open forum for anyone to share and share alike else it's something like USD120/mo. Still less than a SolidWorks Professional subscription per year!

[MrWolf]

8 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I’m beginning to wish I’d gone for BR instead of GWR it would be so much easier 

 

Heaps easier. No track, locos, stock or other railway infrastructure required. Just 3d print a few dozen bogus Georgian farmhouses stick them on the layout and call it Old station close, Commutersville. Or if you want an industrial theme you could put a huge shed on the site with an Amazon logo on the front and surround it with model Stobart lorries. 

If you really want to stretch the imagination (and plausibility) you could have a single track terminating at a plastic bus shelter and do half a dozen trips a day with something like a bus without tyres...

Somehow I think you would rapidly realise that you are wasting your skills and missing the challenge.

[37Oban]

1 hour ago, MrWolf said:

If you really want to stretch the imagination (and plausibility) you could have a single track terminating at a plastic bus shelter and do half a dozen trips a day with something like a bus without tyres...

 

 

Have you been to my local station, Barton-upon-Humber?  Pretty much describes it except the bus shelter is away from the single platform, beyond the buffer stop!

 

Roja