RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 25, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 2 hours ago, Jamie24 said: Have you any friends or any fellow members on here got an Anycubic Photon 3D printer you could try out? The print quality is AMAZING, you won’t see any lines like on the angle irons. Might be worth investing in one yourself? Printing thickness layers are only 25 microns (0.025mm) using a LCD screen & UV curing. They are about £350 and also now produce a separate (photocuring) wash & print machine about £125. Personally, I think very good value for money for what level of detail they can produce. I think it will better show off your modelling efforts and do the level of detail you design into each CAD a massive level of justice, can easily be used for so many scratch builds and other things you would use for you layout! Jamie @Harlequin has one but I’m not cheeky enough to ask, plus I believe there is additional work that needs to be done (supports added etc) and I wouldn’t want to distract him from his own modelling. If my boss is visited by three ghosts on Christmas Eve and I get a bonus I might invest in one 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted July 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 3 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: @Harlequin has one but I’m not cheeky enough to ask, plus I believe there is additional work that needs to be done (supports added etc) and I wouldn’t want to distract him from his own modelling. If my boss is visited by three ghosts on Christmas Eve and I get a bonus I might invest in one I wish I had the time and the mojo to get a print that works! I've done two of the AA6 body so far. The first was great in terms of detail but my printer wasn't calibrated right and it was too big. (Sorry, not a very good photo.) The second print was the right size (I think) but all warped because I tried to reduce the number of supports. I'll try again this weekend, since the weather's decided to put summer on hold... Jamie is spot on about getting a Photon for yourself - they are affordable and you'd be able to do great things with it, Chris. Dealing with the resin and cleaning up isn't too messy if you're organised and it's pretty easy to get to grips with the software. Top tips: Put the printer somewhere dark while it's printing to keep the prints really sharp and don't own a cat. As soon as a print is out of the machine every stray cat hair around heads towards it like a heat-seeking missile and sticks itself on! 1 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie24 Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 @Harlequin Have you tried adding internal bracing (remove after printing completed & cured) to your structures & printing them at an angle? From what I have seen & read regarding tips and tricks this gives you the best print quality, stability & less prone to distortion. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the image... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 25, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 55 minutes ago, Harlequin said: I wish I had the time and the mojo to get a print that works! I've done two of the AA6 body so far. The first was great in terms of detail but my printer wasn't calibrated right and it was too big. (Sorry, not a very good photo.) The second print was the right size (I think) but all warped because I tried to reduce the number of supports. I'll try again this weekend, since the weather's decided to put summer on hold... Jamie is spot on about getting a Photon for yourself - they are affordable and you'd be able to do great things with it, Chris. Dealing with the resin and cleaning up isn't too messy if you're organised and it's pretty easy to get to grips with the software. Top tips: Put the printer somewhere dark while it's printing to keep the prints really sharp and don't own a cat. As soon as a print is out of the machine every stray cat hair around heads towards it like a heat-seeking missile and sticks itself on! I’ve since done a revision with internal walls as I assumed they wouldn’t be strong enough unsupported Im happy to send you a drawing but I don’t like to distract others from their own projects Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 25, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 27 minutes ago, Jamie24 said: @Harlequin Have you tried adding internal bracing (remove after printing completed & cured) to your structures & printing them at an angle? From what I have seen & read regarding tips and tricks this gives you the best print quality, stability & less prone to distortion. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the image... I don’t have 3D modelling software, although I do technical drawings for a living my works is in the dark age still using 2D cad All the drawings I do for 3D printing are done on TinkerCAD which is quite a basic and limited but of software. Not sure adding supports would be that easy on TinkerCAD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie24 Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 Its all done with the software included with the Anycubic Photon printers.. Have a look at some of the Youtube videos / reviews Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 25, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 Looking at photos it appears that the rivets on the Loriot are only on the ends from where the curve starts, it also looks like there are a couple of tie down lugs So I’ve attempted to replicate this Good enough for OO gauge 2 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted July 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 2 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: Looking at photos it appears that the rivets on the Loriot are only on the ends from where the curve starts, it also looks like there are a couple of tie down lugs So I’ve attempted to replicate this Good enough for OO gauge It looks beautiful! I got a couple of old Wrenn Loriots from eBay with the idea of tweaking them up but they have remained at the back of the cupboard so far... 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 25, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 Just now, Harlequin said: It looks beautiful! I got a couple of old Wrenn Loriots from eBay with the idea of tweaking them up but they have remained at the back of the cupboard so far... Thanks Phil It sounds daft but I decided to do the ‘L’ because I like the elegant curving at each end Plus the axle box and springs are obscured so I didn’t have to worry about getting those details 100% correct 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted July 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Jamie24 said: @Harlequin Have you tried adding internal bracing (remove after printing completed & cured) to your structures & printing them at an angle? From what I have seen & read regarding tips and tricks this gives you the best print quality, stability & less prone to distortion. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the image... I think the van body is best printed upright so that the layer artefacts on the surface are parallel with the planking and so look more natural. My warped print was done at and angle and maybe I should have added some internal supports. 51 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: I’ve since done a revision with internal walls as I assumed they wouldn’t be strong enough unsupported Im happy to send you a drawing but I don’t like to distract others from their own projects The walls are strong enough on their own. Internal bracing would help with angled prints but I'm going back to upright for the next attempt. On the other hand, the empty shell allows the Oxford interior to be dropped in. I'd love to have an update if you've got one. Could I have the original CAD file??? If I could load it into Sketchup (hopefully) I could tweak things like the diameters of the screw fixing bosses and maybe remove some of the floor to try to get the fit onto the chassis easier. (Removed floor - another reason to be able put the Oxford interior back in.) I promise I won't use the CAD file for anything without your permission. Edit: And I'll send back any changes I make. Edited July 25, 2020 by Harlequin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 25, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 (edited) 14 minutes ago, Harlequin said: I think the van body is best printed upright so that the layer artefacts on the surface are parallel with the planking and so look more natural. My warped print was done at and angle and maybe I should have added some internal supports. The walls are strong enough on their own. Internal bracing would help with angled prints but I'm going back to upright for the next attempt. On the other hand, the empty shell allows the Oxford interior to be dropped in. I'd love to have an update if you've got one. Could I have the original CAD file??? If I could load it into Sketchup (hopefully) I could tweak things like the diameters of the screw fixing bosses and maybe remove some of the floor to try to get the fit onto the chassis easier. (Removed floor - another reason to be able put the Oxford interior back in.) I promise I won't use the CAD file for anything without your permission. Edit: And I'll send back any changes I make. In TinkerCAD you can export the file as STL, OBJ, or SVG is either of those suitable? Its an online program so you don’t actually save the files to your own drive Ive spent the last ten years trying to convince my employer that Solidworks is the way to go but money talks I might still have the 2D version I did saved on a stick somewhere that could be sent as a .DWG or .DXF Edited July 25, 2020 by chuffinghell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted July 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 7 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: In TinkerCAD you can export the file as STL, OBJ, or SVG is either of those suitable? Its an online program so you don’t actually save the files to your own drive Oh, I see... Can you try OBJ, please? (SVG is a 2D vector format.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 25, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 25 minutes ago, Harlequin said: Oh, I see... Can you try OBJ, please? (SVG is a 2D vector format.) I’ll see what I can do If you go on www.tinkercad.com you’ll see just how basic it is, I’m amazed I’ve been able to do what I have to be honest 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 25, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 Well as @Stubby47 said it does look much better will a couple of coats of colour (Vallejo USAF Grey) I’m hoping to get some transfers made soon I’ve got some pressfix that maybe suitable but I don’t like the inability to adjust the position like you can with waterslides and methfix isn't a good idea on acrylic paint 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 25, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2020 (edited) When I get around to doing the transfers should the G and W be 25” or 16” I’ve not received the book I’ve ordered yet so the answer may be in there but if anyone knows I’d appreciate the help I assumed it was 25” but I’m probably wrong Edited July 25, 2020 by chuffinghell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 If your layout is late 1930s based then 16" letters would be a safer bet. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold lezz01 Posted July 26, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 26, 2020 Can't help you with this Chris. Being in the MR camp the only three things I know for sure about the GWR is that they were the enemy, the NHS was based on what the GW did in Swindon and they should never have believed a word that Brunel said. Not so much blue sky thinking as pie in the sky thinking. Don't get me wrong here I do have a soft spot for the BG it's just that given the utter chaos the break of gauge caused at Gloucester and the total failure of the B&E atmospheric concept it's quite clear that Brunel wasn't the great railway engineer he thought he was but then eagle eyed hindsight is a wonderful thing isn't it!? To me the real genius was Gooch, his BG engines were outstanding. Regards Lez. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 26, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) 7 hours ago, MrWolf said: If your layout is late 1930s based then 16" letters would be a safer bet. Thank you @Miss Prism has also confirmed this I'm glad I asked now because I’d have done it wrong, I don’t mind the odd inaccuracies but this would have been a 9” one (oo er missus) Edited July 26, 2020 by chuffinghell 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 26, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 26, 2020 7 hours ago, lezz01 said: Can't help you with this Chris. Being in the MR camp the only three things I know for sure about the GWR is that they were the enemy, I’m beginning to wish I’d gone for BR instead of GWR it would be so much easier 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 On 25/07/2020 at 14:10, chuffinghell said: In TinkerCAD you can export the file as STL, OBJ, or SVG is either of those suitable? Its an online program so you don’t actually save the files to your own drive Ive spent the last ten years trying to convince my employer that Solidworks is the way to go but money talks I might still have the 2D version I did saved on a stick somewhere that could be sent as a .DWG or .DXF Onshape might be a good option to pitch to your employer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Harlequin Posted July 26, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 26, 2020 Onshape never worked for me. Sketchup is also online now, of course. Still a beautiful bit of software, IMHO. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted July 26, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 26, 2020 (edited) 26 minutes ago, richbrummitt said: Onshape might be a good option to pitch to your employer? He’d only be interested if it’s free Plus he’d have to upgrade my computer because my calculator has better processing capabilities Edited July 26, 2020 by chuffinghell 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 28 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: He’d only be interested if it’s free Plus he’d have to upgrade my computer because my calculator has better processing capabilities It's only free if you're prepared to have your work on open forum for anyone to share and share alike else it's something like USD120/mo. Still less than a SolidWorks Professional subscription per year! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 8 hours ago, chuffinghell said: I’m beginning to wish I’d gone for BR instead of GWR it would be so much easier Heaps easier. No track, locos, stock or other railway infrastructure required. Just 3d print a few dozen bogus Georgian farmhouses stick them on the layout and call it Old station close, Commutersville. Or if you want an industrial theme you could put a huge shed on the site with an Amazon logo on the front and surround it with model Stobart lorries. If you really want to stretch the imagination (and plausibility) you could have a single track terminating at a plastic bus shelter and do half a dozen trips a day with something like a bus without tyres... Somehow I think you would rapidly realise that you are wasting your skills and missing the challenge. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37Oban Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 1 hour ago, MrWolf said: If you really want to stretch the imagination (and plausibility) you could have a single track terminating at a plastic bus shelter and do half a dozen trips a day with something like a bus without tyres... Have you been to my local station, Barton-upon-Humber? Pretty much describes it except the bus shelter is away from the single platform, beyond the buffer stop! Roja 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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