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1 hour ago, MrSimon said:

Excellent work Tom, will you be able to reuse the glazing from the coach you take the roof/chassis from?

 

Cheers

Simon

 

Hi Simon. 

 

Initially I thought I might be able to do that, but it seems the Griddle has some windows of a size Farish haven't covered in any of their Mk.1s. I've added a rebate behind the windows to allow some glazing to be installed as flush as possible. Hopefully it won't look too out of place next to a normal Farish coach!

 

Cheers, 

 

Tom.  

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Oops, I broke it :wacko:

 

C980B013-BD4B-4079-AB33-6704268ABAEC.jpeg.6ec81f38a209a8d465e4a05ba052d460.jpeg
 

I’ve split the griddle down a door edge, hoping this will make it easy to disguise the join. Some final details to the ends have been added and the end profile amended to better fit the Farish roof. 
 

Tom. 

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Is it worth adding a tab behind the door (and possibly roof) to help with alignment? I did this to help aligning the two halves of my 4mm scale V2 and it was a great help.

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Good call Mike. There isn't a huge amount of space on the sides due to the location of the windows, so I'll try adding some to the raft I think. 

 

Cheers, 

 

Tom.  

 

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On a bit of a roll at the moment! 
 

9672E7AA-584A-46BB-9CD2-5F1D4CF702DE.jpeg.37f390c644b94c5d4ed0ff12fe0167fd.jpegAE9CF803-7721-445E-A597-511927C04920.jpeg.8dc1b6af7a28fef6cad1cef8d3edb4d6.jpeg
 

This is about to go through the printer. Any guesses as to what/where? 
 

Tom. 

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My next printing project will be this D2.

 

1969383061_D2Assembly.jpg.181fc0ad374f73a8c8a4735c939cd946.jpg

 

456615510_D2Assembly1.jpg.124bf21ebfa6b21d3d4ad9ced6273210.jpg

 

1376704984_D2Assembly2.jpg.d8f7fea5a923cb578ef26ac080084766.jpg

 

The loco is unpowered and will eventually be paired with a GN tender containing the drive. The driving wheels are from a Farish A1 while the bogie wheels are the largest ones from the same source. The chassis, keep plate and bogie will be 3D printing in Siraya Blu and fitted with bearings. Some experience shows that Siraya Blu is much stronger than any other resin I've used and will withstand being tapped.

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I've heard good things about the Siraya Blu resin. I'll be interested to see how it comes out!

 

Top work as always Steve!

 

Tom.  

 

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I’m currently reprinting some pieces for the canopy for Hull Bridge.

 

My first attempt, shown below, is okay, but there are a few things I think can be done better.

 

The original columns seem too heavy. I’ve redrawn these at a smaller diameter. The trim didn’t come out as well as I’d liked. I’ll print these in a different orientation having thinned the artwork down a bit too. Finally, I have reprinted the roof trusses with simple guides to locate a tab on the top of each column to achieve a more uniform appearance.

A0A692C8-CEED-40BF-916D-E19B3F4F8301.jpeg

64D10108-727A-40CD-BA8F-DF9BD62C4463.jpeg

735AF376-77D4-4B65-B0FA-0878716A51A6.jpeg

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10 hours ago, TomE said:

I've heard good things about the Siraya Blu resin. I'll be interested to see how it comes out!

 

Top work as always Steve!

 

Tom.  

 

 

Thanks Tom, I can't wait to get it printed either. The chassis is a bit of an experiment in more ways than one - I'm testing an idea on how to make it a 'split frame' system without the 'split'. More details on how I'm going to try and do this as and when I can test the idea.

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I tried three different printing angles; 0, 7.5, and 15 degrees. The 15 degrees worked the best, so I’ll use that in future. I’ve ordered some underframes from Shop 2, when they get here I’ll build one up see if any adjustments are needed. 
 

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11 minutes ago, garygfletcher said:

I’m missing the printers in the workshop at work.


Is the consensus here the Anycubic Photon S?

 

 

 

Hi Gary,

 

I've not heard any good comments about the S. Go for the standard Photon instead.

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1 hour ago, garethashenden said:

I tried three different printing angles; 0, 7.5, and 15 degrees. The 15 degrees worked the best, so I’ll use that in future. I’ve ordered some underframes from Shop 2, when they get here I’ll build one up see if any adjustments are needed. 
 

spacer.png

 

Looks very promising for a really useful prototype although the end planks look like they are made of ribbed decking.

 

Jerry

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15 minutes ago, Atso said:

 

Hi Gary,

 

I've not heard any good comments about the S. Go for the standard Photon instead.


thanks, this is useful to know. do you know what sort of problems the ‘s’ suffers from. I note the main difference seems to be the illumination matrix and the z axis.

 

what do you use?

 

maybe better just being patient ?!

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11 minutes ago, queensquare said:

 

Looks very promising for a really useful prototype although the end planks look like they are made of ribbed decking.

 

Jerry


Yup, they sure do! This print was by far the best of the three. I’m going to adjust a few things, and see how primer helps/hurts.

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1 hour ago, garethashenden said:

I tried three different printing angles; 0, 7.5, and 15 degrees. The 15 degrees worked the best, so I’ll use that in future. I’ve ordered some underframes from Shop 2, when they get here I’ll build one up see if any adjustments are needed. 
 

spacer.png


With resin printing, suction is a huge factor. This is why a lot of new printers are advertising “low force” techniques. You might find for something like this you might get better results printing the roof separately and joining them together whilst curing. Also try to avoid areas where resin may get trapped in a cavity. Some alternative suggestions as to just print angles. Just something to thing about that might be useful. Looks like this came out very nicely.

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3 hours ago, garygfletcher said:


thanks, this is useful to know. do you know what sort of problems the ‘s’ suffers from. I note the main difference seems to be the illumination matrix and the z axis.

 

what do you use?

 

maybe better just being patient ?!

 

I gather what is now sold as the "Photon" actually uses the apparently questionable controller board that is in the Photon S! Although apparently firmware updates for both have given compatibility for third party (i.e. much better) slicer software, which theoretically should get past the main complaint about the "S". 

 

On paper the S has a better spec, both in terms of the Z axis being better than the stock one on the Photon, and I believe a more powerful UV array giving faster curing times. The complaints were always the controller breaking compatibility with other software.

 

I have heard a lot of good experience with the Elgoo Mars though. I think someone is posting about one on the 3D Printing Forum here.

 

On printing orientation, there was a chart doing the rounds on owners groups calculating the optimum angle for each layer height, based on pixel size/spacing on the LCD. I seem to recall 22.9 or something being optimum for 0.02 layer height?

 

J

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This will be winging its way to Wiltshire shortly. 
 

8D10266D-8CA4-4F5C-811B-D5A61E4B2B77.jpeg.ada323ada90feb5d7176b1b8d49bf5d4.jpeg

 

Tom. 

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1 hour ago, justin1985 said:

 

I gather what is now sold as the "Photon" actually uses the apparently questionable controller board that is in the Photon S! Although apparently firmware updates for both have given compatibility for third party (i.e. much better) slicer software, which theoretically should get past the main complaint about the "S". 

 

On paper the S has a better spec, both in terms of the Z axis being better than the stock one on the Photon, and I believe a more powerful UV array giving faster curing times. The complaints were always the controller breaking compatibility with other software.

 

I have heard a lot of good experience with the Elgoo Mars though. I think someone is posting about one on the 3D Printing Forum here.

 

On printing orientation, there was a chart doing the rounds on owners groups calculating the optimum angle for each layer height, based on pixel size/spacing on the LCD. I seem to recall 22.9 or something being optimum for 0.02 layer height?

 

J

I've got both an original Photon (as opposed to  the S or the recent "Fauxton" ) and a Mars. 

 

Printing results are indistinguishable between the two - I can't tell which machine has printed what. Design wise I slightly prefer the Mars in that the entire top comes off as opposed to the front hinged flap of the Photon, just makes it easier to clean, adjust etc. The Mars has a very slightly larger print area, but  only just  - an extra 5mm and 3mm in the X and Y directions.

 

The Photon came with a bottle of resin (albiet 250ml) and a free FEP replacement.  the Mars came with neither  (you can apparently get a free FEP sheet by registering your machine with them but when I did this I got an auto-reply saying their office was closed due to the virus and I've heard nothing since...)  so maybe add that to any price comparison.

 

I'm happy with both of them so if I was to get another one I'd just keep an eye out for whichever one had a sale on. (The Mars I was able to get for the equivalent of about 159UK pounds in an Ebay flash sale here a few months back)

 

Not sure about the latest 'Fauxton' but if its deficiencies compared to the older one are a concern, just go the Mars.

 

Edited by monkeysarefun
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On 28/04/2020 at 22:05, justin1985 said:

On printing orientation, there was a chart doing the rounds on owners groups calculating the optimum angle for each layer height, based on pixel size/spacing on the LCD. I seem to recall 22.9 or something being optimum for 0.02 layer height?

Just came across it here: https://github.com/Photonsters/anycubic-photon-docs/blob/master/FAQ.md

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