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I like that. A nice, simple modification.

 

Kadees work well & are not very expensive. You will need to change your couplings & they come in different sizes.

Spratt & Winkle also work well. These are effectively an upside down tension lock with a wire between the buffers. A spring holds them up & a magnet can release them.

 

The method described above has the advantage of being a modification to what you already have, giving you have better compatibility.

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2 hours ago, Pete the Elaner said:

Spratt & Winkle also work well. These are effectively an upside down tension lock with a wire between the buffers. A spring holds them up & a magnet can release them.

 

But they're incredibly obtrusive - you might as well have standard RTR tension lock.  And a wire between the buffers for goodness sake....!

 

DT

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9 hours ago, Torper said:

But they're incredibly obtrusive - you might as well have standard RTR tension lock.  And a wire between the buffers for goodness sake....!

 

DT

 

You can get different sizes, the best for 4mm are the 3mm ones, there is an etch to

mount a 'goal post' shaped wire, which also acts as a mount for the coupler.

Also, there is a delay function, which RTR tension locks don't have, so they are far

more versatile than tension locks, and less obtrusive/obvious as well.

 

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I use a mixture of both Spratt & Winkle, and 3 link / screw. All locos have a "goalpost" wire fitted both ends, between the buffers.

The early milk train below, has been fitted with the standard 4mm S&W coupling.IMG_2876.jpg.93bd4e018b8576af74244afa14a09ee2.jpgIMG_2883.jpg.c30f1ee00c18633e6c06dfac96cd651a.jpg 

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I've played with Sprat & Winkle, they work really well and very nice, but a lot of work. Looking at your name, I'd got kadee, you can just plug them into the NEM sockets. 

 

Cracking picture of the morning milk.. :)

 

Do you have a layout thread? (Sorry to the OP for taking off topic)

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On 26/02/2019 at 14:41, RedgateModels said:

Quite a few of us use the "Brian Kirby" method

 

 

including Andy Y a while ago on his dockyard layout and myself on Summat Colliery

 

We use this method on our Club layout, Falcon Road.

 

Very good. Easy to fit.

 

We have fitted Neo Magnets on the underside of the Baseboard.

 as they were an afterthought.

 

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I require to be able to uncouple stock at any point I choose on my layout, and curvature in the fiddle yard demands tension locks or Kaydees; I have tension locks after coming to the reluctant but probably inevitable conclusion that my eyesight and steadiness of hand are no longer capable of coping with scale 4mm couplings.  Automatic couplings that need a specific location to operate. i.e. any magnetic or electromagnetic, are not permissible. 

 

I use a shunting pole, a penlight with a stiff wire hook attached, to uncouple; the alternative is a 'spade' type that lifts the hooks clear of the bars by pushing the droppers up from beneath, but access from the side is not available at all locations on my layout.  The spade type might be more suitable for those who have to uncouple stock with gangways where access from overhead is restricted.  

 

Dinghams should be compatible with this, but rely on your being able to standardise on one type of coupling, the plastic Mainline/early Bachmann, and this is not possible or at any rate very difficult on all RTR stock; kit build is worse if there is no accommodation for NEM mounts.

 

There is no perfect coupling system unless you model US based prototypes, in which case Kaydees come very close, and it becomes a matter of personal preference and finding out what works best for you.  My couplings are crude and unsightly (as would be Kaydees or Sprat and Winkles on my layout) and there is no adequate substitute for scale couplings in UK outline 4mm IMHO, but compromises are part of the game as well.  My couplings are very close to 100% reliable in operation and present no problems in use.  

 

Even 'simple' tension locks have presented me with some issues in the quest for perfect operation however; despite their alleged standard and compatibility there are differences, sometimes within a manufacturer's range, between bar heights, and dropper/hook profile, not to mention mounting position and method and distance 'out' from the buffer beams.  I have had difficulty with overriding bars, and with standardising distance between buffers or buffer beams; not what I'd call standard or compatible!

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On 02/03/2019 at 14:25, dasatcopthorne said:

We have fitted Neo Magnets on the underside of the Baseboard.

 as they were an afterthought.

 

Yeah, me too, they were sold as scalextic traction magnets when I bought them, 20 quids worth did the whole layout. A lolly stick was the perfect spacer to hold them apart while the glue set too :)

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