Unknown DCC chip and loco fit suggestion

[Danim]

Have this DCC chip but I'm not sure what one it is

Also how would I modify the wiring to fit inside the Hornby Sentinel loco to allow me to have headlights and taillights

[Phil S]

It is not necessary, in most cases to know the make of decoder, to use it 8-)    This has the standard wiring colours: Red = right track, black = left track

Orange = motor +ve or where the right track had been connected in analogue, Grey - the motor -ve or where the black (left) track had been connected.

(but these can be swapped over if preferred - no damage is done... ) 

 

Blue is the common positive - here for your lighting, and white is the -ve side switch for the lights your want when going 'forward' - and yellow the -ve switch for the lights you want when going in reverse  (assuming default directional lighting turned on with F0.   I assume you plan hardwiring. Don't forget that LEDs wll require a series resistor with each ... minimum 1k ... perhaps 2k2

 

The green wire offers a 3rd function switch - eg for a cab light or flashing light (for which you can use a 'flashing LED= an LED and integral integrated circuit which usually operates from about 9V or more [commonly advertised as 12V], and will flash the LED at 2Hz without any programming.  Normally On/Off with Function 1 ... but with a TTS decoder it would be button F18 or F25 depending on steam or diesel  ... on some (other) decoders these can be changed by the user using the CV table.

IF there had been another wire - it would probably have been Violet, and act as the 4th function ... same idea as above.

(There is no obvious sign of an extra wire having been on the pad above the orange - so make no assumption about it]

 

NOT ALL DECODERS respond to CV8=8 to reset !!!!  Some require CV8=2, other CV8 =32, and some others need 'unlocking' (see their user manual) to allow a change to be made.  CV 29 should be standard, and Cv1 for short addresses, and CV17/18 for long ... depending on how your controller offers them.

 

IF you have a controller that 'reads back' then you can read CV 7 and CV 8 to identify the make, if not obvious on the PCB itself.

 

[Ron Ron Ron]

It looks like the old ESU LokPilot Basic V1.0     a.k.a. the long running but now discontinued Bachman’s 36-553 (3 function).

 

Note than the 9th (purple) wire isn’t fitted.

 

 

Ron

Edited May 26, 2019 by Ron Ron Ron

[Danim]

I plan on having directional lighting at the corners of the loco so one white on the left side and a red at the rear on the right and the same the other way, I also plan on having a cab light so would that be wired to the green wire

[Phil S]

(I too thought it looked like esu lokpilot / Bachmann ... and had one recently with the violet wire on the pad ... but is it supported by software when sold as Bachmann???   ESU usually have a visible version number on the PCB ... may be on the other side to that shown.

 

With 3 functions -  white, yellow and green, you can easily  have:

white = forward white light and rear red light at opposite (back) end, via .resistors

yellow to a white light (for reverse) at rear, with a red light at the front, and a green F1cab light.

[ You CAN wire the white and red LEDs at opposite end in SERIES or PARALLEL - as long as each has a series resistor (1 k or more probably)  - but if wired in parallel you have the choice of different resistance values for red and white lights - to alter the brightness of the outputs.]

Note that you will ALWAYS have a red tail light when you have a front white light on  ... controlled by F0 and swapping ends when you change direction.

The F1 Green Cab light (and resistor) is independent.

In all cases, the circuit is normally completed by connecting to the Blue positive wire   [But there are other options]

 

IF there had been a 4th violet wire, it would have been possible to use White for FRONT WHITE only, YELLOW for REAR white only, with Green for Red at Rear, and Violet for Red at front  ... with CVs adjusted so that F1 and F2 (for example) controlling the green and violet wires allow you to optionally have the tail lights on - they can be made 'semi-automatic' with some decoders - so red is not on when it is at the front.  OR as suggested in another thread recently - red font and rear by having F0 off, F1 and F2 both on ... for a parked loco.

It is also possible to have interior lighting or cab lights come on automatically with the white lights in either direction [F0=on]  (eg how Bachmann light their DMU /EMU insteriors) ..... this would involve a diode from each of the white and yellow wires ( band toward the white or yellow wire ), and a CAB LED and resistor connected in series to the blue common positive.

[Amand]

The ESU lokpilot has the purple wire next to the orange wire - see the unused solder tab. It may or may not have the F2 functionality built into the firmware, but worth a punt to find out.

 

Bachmann decoder usually have a clear plastic sleeve, this one appears to have been removed, possibly to re-solder the grey and possibly the black wires back on to the board. Take extra care to ensure that there's no stray strands shorting out the two solder pads.

 

I've not seen the insides of a Hornby Sentinel - have you checked the dimensions as the decoder Hornby designed the mechanism for is a bit smaller than the one you're considering using.

[Ron Ron Ron]

40 minutes ago, Phil S said:

... but is it supported by software when sold as Bachmann???  

 

The only difference is the packaging.

This decoder was bog standard ESU, with no modification or customisation.

 

 

 

.

[hobbyhorse]

That's definitely a ESU lokpilot basic, replaced a lot of them over the years.

 

Simon