Wobbly running 0-4-0

[kevinlms]

9 minutes ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

The worst they can say is 'no'!

 

I know it is difficult in some circumstances, but my 'fixed plan' is to get several hours of running and performance evaluation done within a day or three of having the item in my hands. That way there is no argument when a return proves necessary: only just received, and there's a fault.

Agreed and it is an advantage in being a member of a club or having a friend with a suitable layout, if you don't have one yourself.

 

It's simply no good to buy something and sticking it in a cupboard for a lengthy period, then taking it out and finding a problem.

[WaysideWorks]

3 hours ago, kevinlms said:

Yes, that's what i was thinking.

What material are the wheels from this model made from?

Oh I really wouldn't know, I'll hazard a guess and just say steel?

[DCB]

On 30/12/2019 at 12:15, WaysideWorks said:

Here are some pictures!

 

 

 

Bottom rod Photo (3) above is bent in between the wheels.   Top Left wheel tyre is not on straight. Back to back on the Left axle is greater than that on the Right Axle. I expect the tightness has elongated the axle holes.  You could straighten the rod, straighten the tyre and ease out the back to back but these things really are rubbish designed for 4 year olds who enjoy running them at a scale 200 mph. Buying a L&Y ex Dapol 0-4-0 or a Peckett has to be a better bet long term for serious modeller, and buying a 1960s Triang Polly or Dock Shunter is a better bet for er 64 year olds who like to race 0-4-0s around a double track oval at a scale 200 mph.   Did I say I really don't like these plastic chassis and have spent fruitless hours trying to make them into something slight;y less awful.

[WaysideWorks]

2 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

Bottom rod Photo (3) above is bent in between the wheels.   Top Left wheel tyre is not on straight. Back to back on the Left axle is greater than that on the Right Axle. I expect the tightness has elongated the axle holes.  You could straighten the rod, straighten the tyre and ease out the back to back but these things really are rubbish designed for 4 year olds who enjoy running them at a scale 200 mph. Buying a L&Y ex Dapol 0-4-0 or a Peckett has to be a better bet long term for serious modeller, and buying a 1960s Triang Polly or Dock Shunter is a better bet for er 64 year olds who like to race 0-4-0s around a double track oval at a scale 200 mph.   Did I say I really don't like these plastic chassis and have spent fruitless hours trying to make them into something slight;y less awful.

Pecketts and Pugs are too expensive and the Polly or Dock Shunter are too hard to find for a cheap price including shipping, and I'm not exactly a serious modeller.

[Il Grifone]

Straightening off true wheels is tricky. Remove the motor (it's only held on by a wire clip! ) and turn the wheel so that it's at it's closest to the frame. Lever it straight with a screwdriver. Repeat as necessary until it runs true. Reassemble and test.

IIRC (mine isn't to hand) the wheels are plastic centres with steel tyres. Pollies etc, are rather better made (why they are still around 60 years on!) and have a steel chassis with zinc alloy spacers/weights and the wheels have zinc alloy centres. This is driven by an X.04 motor and not a piece of cr junk made in China.

 

A quick calculation (involving a couple of guestimates) suggests that a Polly cannot quite make a scale 200mph, but could be able to hit 170 running light. Most Tri-ang locomotives can do 150....

 

Plenty here  https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=triang+0-4-0&_sacat=180250&_sop=15

[SR71]

@WaysideWorks

 

Sorry I've been through my spares, where I thought I might have some 0-4-0 wheel sets left, but no luck.