ESU Sound chip in Bachman class 20

[Andy Whittle]

Hi All,

 

I'm hoping for a little help please.

Last week i purchased a Bachmann Class 20 and ESU sound chip.

Attached is an image of what i have installed so far, there are no instructions with the chip apart from the general CV instructions etc, nothing relating to installation.

 

I've figured out how to fit the chip i think. Can i ask do i need  to purchase a separate speaker or is the small cube connected to the two brown wires the speaker?

If that's the case the wires are not long enough to reach the speaker housing, in addition i have red, black and white wires from the chip are these for additional lighting etc?

 

Thanks and apologies if this is straight forward and i'm not looking at it properly.

Andy.

[Foden]

Hi Andy, looks like an ESU Loksound V5 to my eye.

 

You’re quite right, the cube speaker is that attached to the brown wires. These can be lengthened with suitable wire as required.

 

Looking at the remaining wires and the pads they are soldered to I would say this is wiring for a ‘stay alive’ capacitor. Not required at all to function if you don’t wish to add one, but can help keeping the decoder, and thus sound going over dirty track or dead frog points etc.

 

Just be sure that the bottom of the decoder isn’t shorting on the chassis if it’s snug in. A piece of tape under the decoder works fine in preventing this happening 

Edited February 5, 2020 by Foden

[charliepetty]

Make sure you put the Speaker kit & Lid on and seal the chamber airtight with PVA Glue.

 

It will be noiser then, if you don't it will be pathetic !!!.

 

Charlie (Legomanbiffo Team)

Edited February 6, 2020 by charliepetty

[Andy Whittle]

Thanks both for your advice, much appreciated.

I may change the speaker, I've not had much experience with this type seem small for the area i have in the loco, although not too worried about volume more depth of sound i guess.

 

Thanks Again.

[Phil Bullock]

At least Bachmann have left room for a decent speaker in this model Andy - the earlier 20s were a problem. Their speaker mount is designed to take the 20 x 40 speaker https://www.roads-and-rails.co.uk/speakers.html# ... but better sound can be obtained by binning the speaker mount and sealing the speaker directly to the chassis with Blu tak or similar.

 

Have fun - we certainly do!

 

 

[Andy Whittle]

Great footage Phil, Love the layout! Thanks Andy.

 

[Nick G]

As mentioned its all about the speakers. These have ESU V5 chips like yours from LegomanBiffo with 20 x 40mm speakers.

 

 

 

[Phil Bullock]

2 hours ago, Andy Whittle said:

Great footage Phil, Love the layout! Thanks Andy.

 

 

Thanks Andy - the trackwork was getting pretty dire by the time this was filmed, if you look back through the videos you'll see the prototypical biblical flooding. So have just bought a couple of the twin Iphone speakers from Roads and Rails and fitted them in a 47 and a Hymek. Impressed with them both with Howes sound files on V4 chips.

[Andy Whittle]

5 hours ago, Nick G said:

As mentioned its all about the speakers. These have ESU V5 chips like yours from LegomanBiffo with 20 x 40mm speakers.

 

 

 

That's superb Nick and hope i have something similar soon, I believe we may have met a year ago. I was discussing the NCE controller with you. not sure if it was Warley or the Staffordshire show. Thanks. Andy.

[Nick G]

7 hours ago, Andy Whittle said:

That's superb Nick and hope i have something similar soon, I believe we may have met a year ago. I was discussing the NCE controller with you. not sure if it was Warley or the Staffordshire show. Thanks. Andy.

 

 

Thanks, probably at Stafford show as I exhibited the layout there last year. Back next year with my other layout.

[40034_Nick]

On 06/02/2020 at 17:38, Nick G said:

As mentioned its all about the speakers. These have ESU V5 chips like yours from LegomanBiffo with 20 x 40mm speakers.

 

 

 

 

Hi Nick... Where did you get those DRS 20s from ?? Thanks

 

Nick

[Albie the plumber]

I know its a little off topic but I'm revisiting a previous class 20 sound project that I did a few years ago in order to see if I can get the marker lights that I fitted to work .

Trouble is , I've completely forgotten how to remove the body from the chassis !

A single screw removed at each end , the cab section removed but now ,I'm at a standstill.

Can anyone out there jog my memory ?

 

Albie 

[w124bob]

There are only 2 screws front and rear then the body should lift vertically off, thats it. I've got issues with getting the cabs off , I know how they attach but at least two of mine appear to also be (factory) glued. If you've had the body off before then it sounds like glue some it shoudn't be.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

5 minutes ago, w124bob said:

... I've got issues with getting the cabs off , I know how they attach but at least two of mine appear to also be (factory) glued...

Not encountered one so far without any cement tacking the cab to the bonnet. Most broke out easily, but one recently has required several cycles through the 'hour in the freezer/hot water plunge' routine and much flexing to get the cement bond to break. (All the windows will fall out too, put the body in a bag to go in the freezer, for the easier finding thereof...)