Best OO LMR 4-6-0s available

[creweboy]

Lost track of LMR prototypes and the available range of Jubilee, Patriot, Royal Scot by both Hornby and Bachmann are confusing, what are the best one for detail Etc? 

[30368]

I can only really comment on the original Patriot. The Bachmann version is very much finer than the Hornby. Even so, the Bachmann does need the addition of injectors (Comet do a nice pair of castings.) under the footplate behind the rear footsteps. Bit of a glaring ommision.

 

I also have a Hornby rebuilt Scot for which I purchased a detailing kit from Brassmaster (I think, its a long while ago), for one thing the Chimney needs replacing!

 

Sorry I can't help more, I'm sure the LMS modellers out there will offer a lot more advice.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[Steamport Southport]

Going by what is current rather than models from back in the day.

 

Jubilee Bachmann

Original Patriot Bachmann

 

Rebuilt Royal Scot Hornby

Rebuilt Patriot Hornby

 

I don't think there has been an original Royal Scot for quite a while. Nor a Rebuilt Jubilee. Both of which Bachmann had in their range and were updated versions of the Mainline models.

 

If it's for projects then all the Mainline, Bachmann, etc. versions are good although some may have problems with their chassis.

 

The one to avoid is the old Hornby Patriot still available in the Railroad range. It was a poor model even when first released.

 

 

Jason

[The Johnster]

There's the Hornby Black 5 as well; earlier models are carp, but current production is ok.

 

Mainline split chassis models, which include some Replica and early Bachmann, are prone to wheels slipping on the muff axles and going out of quarter, as well as axle wear through to the top of the chassis blocks.  Airfix and Hornby used tender drives with traction tyres for several years, before they realised the error of their ways; these were awful.  The tyres spread crud over most of your layout, picked up by plastic wheels on the contemporary stock which spread it over the rest, and the pancake motors were feeble, so they had to run at high revs to develop anything in the way of power.  This necessitated trains of nylon reduction gears which failed to provide acceptable slow running because of the increased friction and were prone to splitting.  My advice FWIW is to avoid older models and stick to current production (I know your wallet doesn't want to listen to this), and current production by and large can be indicated by NEM couplings.  If it ain't got NEMs, don't buy it!

[creweboy]

Thanks for all your pointers, that makes it a lot easier.