Triang Eyelets

[russell price]

Does anyone know where to obtain replacement eyelets for Triang stock. The ones I need mainly are the ones that attach loco and rolling stock bogies?  The usual sources bring up the smaller coupling ones and others. The ones I refer to are 4.5mm dia across the outside of the tube and approximately 9mm long. Thanks in advance. 

[Michael Hodgson]

If they're difficult to find, wouldn't a nut & bolt be just as good?

[Ruffnut Thorston]

I can’t find the supplier I used…
 

There is always the CKD kit nut and bolt…designed for bogie fitting.
 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174760508333?hash=item28b089bbad:g:mwoAAOSwlx1giVFs

[Halvarras]

43 minutes ago, Ruffnut Thorston said:

I can’t find the supplier I used…
 

There is always the CKD kit nut and bolt…designed for bogie fitting.
 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174760508333?hash=item28b089bbad:g:mwoAAOSwlx1giVFs

 

Gosh, I didn't realise you can still get these - not that I've thought of looking. I could have done with a couple about a year ago too! I bought some in the 1970s and found them very useful, especially when building MTK DMU and coach kits which came with (crudely) cast versions of the Tri-ang bogie pivot with (even more crudely) cast pivot pins which bore a passing resemblance to this bolt. With a little fettling these bolts fitted into the pivot castings which could then be glued to the underside of the (usually aluminium) floor, making bogie fitting simple. If only the rest of the kit was as simple.....!

[russell price]

Thank you for the link to the CKD bolts, i hadnt thought of those. Ive used ordinary bolts on a DMU however the nuts and bolts are a bit on the heavy duty side!!

[Il Grifone]

I've always used nuts and bolts. A smaller size can always be padded out with a short piece of tubing.

[Wolseley]

Another vote for nuts and bolts.  I have tried using eyelets, which are available on eBay and from one or two suppliers of spare parts, but I have found it difficult to apply the right amount of pressure to get them to fit correctly - too much pressure and they don't turn smoothly, too little and they wobble - plus one slip and you can mutilate them.

 

I recently fitted Dublo bogies to a rake of Tri-ang Caledonian coaches and, after three unsuccessful attempts on one coach, resorted to using short nuts and bolts, which worked perfectly first time.  I put a drop of superglue on the top of the thread after the nut and bolt were in place to ensure that they wouldn't unscrew in service.

 

Edited August 26, 2021 by Wolseley

[locomad2]

Common problem I've used "eyelets" found in camping shops quite usefull, and using a pin punch flared the ends so just allow some movement, mainly its replacing HD bogie wagon bogies. 

 

Present I use "blind" bolts or studs used in electrical earthing terminals they have flush ends, pushed in using a vice they have little spikes which dig into the chassis and prevent movement finish off using a nylock nut.

 

I've had some success using aluminium pop rivets take out the pin and again using a pin punch flare off,  trial and error, readily available.

 

Finally in plastic especially coach bodies use any round convenient size plastic rod then drill a small hole and use small "R" pins or just bits of wire with convenient size washers to hold bogie in place

[russell price]

Hmm lots of interesting thoughts on how best to proceed. If I went down the eyelet route I would make a tool up to go in pillar drill to use as a press. It would have a stop to prevent over tightening.  When I’ve used bolts it is a matter of some super glue so the nut stays where you put it. Already had one drop off the DMU and short everything out.

[Il Grifone]

When I remove the rivets, I carefully lift the tabs and when refitting just bend a couple back (or use a nut and bolt).

[Ruffnut Thorston]

23 hours ago, russell price said:

Thank you for the link to the CKD bolts, i hadnt thought of those. Ive used ordinary bolts on a DMU however the nuts and bolts are a bit on the heavy duty side!!

 

23 hours ago, Neil Phillips said:

 

Gosh, I didn't realise you can still get these - not that I've thought of looking. I could have done with a couple about a year ago too! I bought some in the 1970s and found them very useful, especially when building MTK DMU and coach kits which came with (crudely) cast versions of the Tri-ang bogie pivot with (even more crudely) cast pivot pins which bore a passing resemblance to this bolt. With a little fettling these bolts fitted into the pivot castings which could then be glued to the underside of the (usually aluminium) floor, making bogie fitting simple. If only the rest of the kit was as simple.....!

The linked nuts and bolts are new “reproduction” examples. It is good to have them available.

 

The CKD nut was sized to wedge itself in the top recess of the bogie mounting on the chassis, so that it didn’t unscrew on its own…

 

I have some tools from a supplier that was on eBay, to fit bogie eyelets, and the eyelet holding on the X.04 type motor brush holder diaphragm.

 

They also supplied the eyelets, but I can’t seem to find them just lately.

 

 

Edited August 26, 2021 by Ruffnut Thorston
More Added

[bobthemilk]

On 26/08/2021 at 22:31, Ruffnut Thorston said:

 

The linked nuts and bolts are new “reproduction” examples. It is good to have them available.

 

The CKD nut was sized to wedge itself in the top recess of the bogie mounting on the chassis, so that it didn’t unscrew on its own…

 

I have some tools from a supplier that was on eBay, to fit bogie eyelets, and the eyelet holding on the X.04 type motor brush holder diaphragm.

 

They also supplied the eyelets, but I can’t seem to find them just lately.

 

 

 

 

One of those 'one of these days' , but  john050272 used to have them , but not seen them for some months

 

Bob

[bobthemilk]

M 34 rivets

MS96riveter

 

oops wrong rivets , these are the ones that hold the xo4 brush holder ( E2C ) in situ

 

Bob

 

ps and wrong riveter , as just looking at it you would be unable to  'rivet' a bogie to a chassis , some days I just should not be allowed out on my own , must try harder

Edited August 28, 2021 by bobthemilk
senior moment

[Ruffnut Thorston]

Hi Bob.

 

That was the supplier…and I have that tool too. 

 

The bogie riveting tool is in two pieces, which screw together, spreading the open end of the eyelet as the parts are brought together.

 

A thin card spacer can be used to give a bit of slack in the joint, when it is removed.

 

Best formed as a slot, around Tge eyelet/ rivet…

 

 

Edited August 28, 2021 by Ruffnut Thorston
Typo

[locomad2]

Going back to coach and wagon bogies for triang and Hornby dublo good source of cheapo rivets are obtained from specialise shoe or clothing lace  repair shops. Taking the tools apart a pillar drill is about all you need to set the rivet in. I've also used such rivets to replace ex Airfix kit coupling rivets with peco coupling 

[Il Grifone]

I use nuts and bolts (or a self tapper screw) for Tri-ang motors too. I always work on the  principle that, if it's easy to repair, it won't go wrong. The replacement glass fibre diaphragms are stronger than the original paxolin ones, but still fragile. These things are the weak spot of the motor. (Dry joints on the commutator don't count - they are shoddy workmanship not a design fault.)

 

In the past, before replacements were available, I have repaired them with a piece of wire (it may be necessary to reverse the polarity of the motor depending on which side  breaks) or the centre rail insulators from Dublo 3 rail track can be pressed into service. The tab slots need to be lengthened slightly (or file the brush arms). The slots are slightly too close together, but work OK. I don't recommend the Korean War period card efforts (come to that, I don't recommend Korean War track at at all*).

 

*A Korean war uncoupling rail has just provided a uncoupling lift for one that was warped and broken. I might as well have the duff part on a rail I am unlikely to ever use.