locomad2

Dont forget at lot also were made to drop in Hornby Dublo R1 chassis, you could even purchase chassis separately. Quite right too, nearly all my slash Wills kits got built recently in covid lockdowns, K's motors chassis value gear just don't work, one day I will try again but at the monent thinking of using HD value gear to finish a few off its more durable

I find trix couplings works fine with both manual and automatic HD track uncouplers as you said its the old trix wheels which don't run though. Later trix especially the 3.8mm coaches run fine, in fact I find too well. They are very free running as I believe the plastic bogies have graphite added plus pin point axles, left on there own in a siding they creep when traffic passes nearby due to suction, one has to add heavy dicast HD parcel vans to stop them moving. On the other hand a "Pug" could easily shunt 8 on its own

Mine are a tight screw fit, the BA6 thread cuts a very small thread within the C cut hole Use either a BA screw thread or HD coupling thread as shown on right coupling, in the middle is a mark 3 triang the hole in centre just fits a BA6 or similar self tap. Coupling i call the Airfix type were fitted on Airfix rtr in 1980's there is a very nice looking narrow one, early form of NEM, I think still available as Dapol or Hornby X8889? Over the years ive fitted these to all kind of "coupling less" bogie trucks Dublo locos, Castles been the most common on the front plus a few single axle pony trucks 8F and 2-6-4T using the narrow one which i have none left cause they are all used up

See your point convert it to tension lock and all the stock the same. Plus you don't want to alter bogie so de value the loco. Try this Remove the body, remove the screw coupling replace the coupling with an Airfix tension lock, there are two types big thick one and a narrow smaller one, Big one works better. You might find you need a slightly longer screw ,BA8 or BA6 to fit nut. It just fits under the body. The bogie is similar to the class 20, i believe the Wrenn class 208 can fit both types as a screw fit. The Dublo ones a rivits with metal coupling however often 2nd hand examples have broken coupling, i nearly aways replace with a screw, which makes it easier to fit different coupling. In the photo its a traing converter wagon with peco bearing its slightly lower due to smaller wheels but same buffer height as HD. Note also the bogie is very similar to the class 20, I've seen over the years so called mint boxed examples of the Co-Bo with class 20 side frames, even cut down class 20 bogies with Co-Bo side frames, there are different casting, easy to inter change prehaps even late factory examples different types. Lot happened after Hornby went bust, did wrenn build a few ? Ive seen un painted alloy bodies on sale for silly prices. Also both examples are live chassis, the Bo-Bo has a tendency to short its side frames very low, plus connect the HD mail coach the wrong way round both with metal coupling, and it shorts and it won't move.

Operating a fairly large layout with both HD and tension lock coupling i found that its a lot easier to use converter wagons or coaches than mess about changing half the stock to get a common standard. Various methods used mixed traffic locos ie HD 2-6-4T often have different coupling on the bogie at each end, a wrenn/HD mix Mentioned before triang converter wagon sits a bit high, however early Wrenn chassis can easily be convertered to both, also Airfix kit wagons can be easily fitted with both coupling plus the Airfix "buckeye" works with Peco coupling Coaches both Trix (3.8mm to foot) and Kitmaster bogies can be fitted with both Peco and tension lock For automatic uncoupling HD ramp uncouplers will work on both types. My own view Peco operate the best especially when set properly, the metal ones do need resetting, tension lock seen to suffer from decoupling, don't like been shuntered in long trains, cannot fly or hump shunt, and a nightmare when whole trains derail, plus not all tension lock are compatible with each other. I also use different types of coupling on small amount of stock Chain link looks good especially taking photos, plus i have a few small tank engines with chain link, ( big coupling looks supid), however all the buffers must be at the right hight. Wire in loop for fixed coach rakes, American tension lock Joueff ?, American buckeye, airfix buckeye

I had a similar problem about a year back and posted in motor & drive thread (sorry cant link) seemed due to over tight armture the shaft bored out sideways the hole where the little bearing sat. Fixed it by just adding a new bearing on top of old one,, and adjust the top nut on armture, loco runs fine now

As a teenager I once lost a brush while cleaning and replaced it with pencil lead, think it was a Hornby Dublo 2-6-4T but cant reallly remember. Locomotive worked well then and probably still got the pencil lead in, so have a few locomotives since. HB leads are softer but have used 2H as well. Often file a curve in one end of the lead

One of the minor disadvantages of running old Kitmaster coaches is the tendencies of the windows falling out during service either due to glue failing, bad handling or the odd derailment. However the good news is nearly aways the glass remains inside the coach and using double-sided tape on little finger can be put back without removing roof or underside. This particular example is unpainted except for linings, and doesn't have the excellent peco cardboard interiors, considering its over 60 years old stands up well to most modern coaching stock.

You dont seam to come across them 2nd hand at toy fairs prehaps type of models modellers hang on too as they work so well

Yes it is and just realised Meccanco went bust 60 years ago, the mail coach still works the grandchild think its great fun putting those little mail bags on the hook

Ive a few of them those slimline however i dont find them that compatible most tension lock coupling especially triang mk3 stock so larger one left on the front. One advantage then was quite easy to swop them over well ahead of there time now we have modern nem fitting

Here is my 31 getting on for 40 years old and still looking brand new. Actually its the original body as its one of the first models I decided too "collect" suitable fitting cheapo tatty bodies and repaint, detail etc and swap and keep just 1 or 2 chassis in good working order. Thus I tend to have just a few chassis and lots of different bodies which fit, keeps costs down. Hence with class 31 ive still got some unpainted Airfix bodies in white or grey plastic, messing about over years somewhere is a Classs 31 in British Army deep bronze green with black "Mickley mouse" camouflage. This one runs beautifully, very smooth with excellent haulage abilities easily copes with 9 Kitmaster mk 1 coaches which are quite heavy it never needs attention as last service date was may 1991, original rubber tyres on black wheel and yes centre one is fixed and cut off. Somehow doesn't distract from a neat looking model. Considering cost £15 for the set thats about £3 for the locomotive 1985 prices ( 2 pints of beer ?) Reckon best value model ever

Ive one in green part of a special set sold by WH Smith with 3 blue BR coaches in early 80's rrp was about £24, in a special offer was just £14, i think someone made a mistake and took £10 off instead of 10%. Really popular model been on every layout since purchase, quite powerfull with no vices & good looking, far better than some of the modern rubbish sold now

Age of the plastic I've a similar one been boxed for years, like yours the inner removable sections are a different colour assuming from a different plastic batch

Very much agree with you, about 15 years ago tended to start using "airline 10" very light oil used as in line lubricant for air tools, then it was about £5 for 5 litres, you dont need much for model locos Another problem is actually getting a very small drop onto the very small bearing either end of HD motors, city and 2-6-4T as example. Medical syringes and needles are not easily found. I now use and empty "polycemment" bottle, as used for making plastic kits, with a 0.7mm bore metal needle. By putting long 0.6mm wire (mig welding wire) down it you can restrict the flow. BTW same wire can be used to clear the hard poly glue sticking in the tube. I now find most need re oiling once a year, ampmeter reading taken before and after running, I notice on average a reduction of amps of about 10% is noticed. I also listen carefully as they run and notice they run more smoothly. Constant and regular oiling is a very important job on keeping locomotives in excellent running order.