RMweb Gold 81C Posted January 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2018 Jon the Cordon 3D printed wagon had 4 coats of paint with a rub down between each coat and the bubbles still showed through. I will be heavily weathering it to hide the finish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) Jon the Cordon 3D printed wagon had 4 coats of paint with a rub down between each coat and the bubbles still showed through. I will be heavily weathering it to hide the finish. WP_20150903_11_47_03_Pro.jpg I do like the tension lock uncoupling "paddle"... Very similar to the Tri-ang Railways R.160 Hand Uncoupler! A "Ready to Run" version..... Edited January 8, 2018 by Sarahagain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castle Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Jon the Cordon 3D printed wagon had 4 coats of paint with a rub down between each coat and the bubbles still showed through. I will be heavily weathering it to hide the finish. WP_20150903_11_47_03_Pro.jpg Hi All, Great Bear - fantastic layout and pictures, well done! I’m with 81C on this 3D printed body shell thing. I had to do similar with my loco coal wagon. Turned out ok in the end though! All the best, Castle 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSWM Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Inspiring from start to finish, keep up the excellent work. Regards John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 The autotrailer is coming along steadily, nearly there. I've been distracted having fun playing with cad and 3d printing trying to produce coaches. Here's the current state of progress on my first attempt, a C30 Toplight. My painting makes the model look worse than it would otherwise be. The droplights are bad enough but the bollections are worse and I think look too heavy on here. Any tips as to how to paint neatly welcomed! Skill and patience I need to acquire. I have some pens on order which might just do the trick instead. Otherwise everything will be in wartime all-brown More details on the coach and printing can be found http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/130385-3d-printed-gwr-coaches-1st-try-a-toplight-c30/ All the best Jon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 22, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 22, 2018 Looks a very good first attempt with 3d printing, although I do think with all that raised beading you had your work cut out for you on the clean up. Given the limitations of the sort of 3d printers that it is economical for us modellers to use (ratehr than the high end industrial kit that is streets ahead!) I wonder if an alternative approach is to use an etched side mounted onto a generic 3d print of a toplight shell (with cutouts to clear the glazing). An etch purely to add the raised beading would probably be far too fiddley. The current 3d printing process certainly seems more at home with printing large flat spaces rather than any raised detail (given it allows you to clean up the lines without damaging parts.) As for how to tidy up the painting, its a bit tricky to tell what is a painting issue and what is a preperation issue. Whose paint did you use, and which brand of masking tape? It looks to me that there was a slight masking issue between chocolate and cream, I use the Tamiya brand of masking tape (which at the point I standardised on it in the early 2000s was by far the best on the market). I then remove it about ten minutes after painted (so before the paint is fully dry) to try and avoid getting a raised lip between colours. When it is a complicated surface under the mask, I often use 2 pieces (one up to the edge of the raised section and another along the desired mask line), the intention being to minimise any seepage. I use a mixture of Halfords aerosols and Phoenix paints through an Airbrush both onto Halfords primer. I find that the former is a lot more dependent on having a perfect surface upon which to paint, while the airbrush is a little more forgiving. I have yet to paint a GW coach into chocolate and cream (having only done wartime brown for 1947 so far), though I have done plenty of modern coaches into Great Western Trains and Virgin which are a fair bit trickier on the masking. The difficult bit is doing a good job on the droplights, my plan here is to varnish the coach first (gloss being the best surface for transfers, it is also the best surface for wiping off paint mistakes). Then using a new fine brush touch in the frame, in case of difficulties it is out with the masking tape (though that's a bit more time consuming on a compartment toplight than it is on the centenaries and diners that I have on my to paint pile. With that as a first attempt, I look forward to seeing what you will come up with next Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 Looks a very good first attempt with 3d printing, although I do think with all that raised beading you had your work cut out for you on the clean up. Given the limitations of the sort of 3d printers that it is economical for us modellers to use (ratehr than the high end industrial kit that is streets ahead!) I wonder if an alternative approach is to use an etched side mounted onto a generic 3d print of a toplight shell (with cutouts to clear the glazing). An etch purely to add the raised beading would probably be far too fiddley. The current 3d printing process certainly seems more at home with printing large flat spaces rather than any raised detail (given it allows you to clean up the lines without damaging parts.) As for how to tidy up the painting, its a bit tricky to tell what is a painting issue and what is a preperation issue. Whose paint did you use, and which brand of masking tape? It looks to me that there was a slight masking issue between chocolate and cream, I use the Tamiya brand of masking tape (which at the point I standardised on it in the early 2000s was by far the best on the market). I then remove it about ten minutes after painted (so before the paint is fully dry) to try and avoid getting a raised lip between colours. When it is a complicated surface under the mask, I often use 2 pieces (one up to the edge of the raised section and another along the desired mask line), the intention being to minimise any seepage. I use a mixture of Halfords aerosols and Phoenix paints through an Airbrush both onto Halfords primer. I find that the former is a lot more dependent on having a perfect surface upon which to paint, while the airbrush is a little more forgiving. I have yet to paint a GW coach into chocolate and cream (having only done wartime brown for 1947 so far), though I have done plenty of modern coaches into Great Western Trains and Virgin which are a fair bit trickier on the masking. The difficult bit is doing a good job on the droplights, my plan here is to varnish the coach first (gloss being the best surface for transfers, it is also the best surface for wiping off paint mistakes). Then using a new fine brush touch in the frame, in case of difficulties it is out with the masking tape (though that's a bit more time consuming on a compartment toplight than it is on the centenaries and diners that I have on my to paint pile. With that as a first attempt, I look forward to seeing what you will come up with next Thanks, Rich. I didn't print this myself, I got this done by Sculpteo (similar to Shapeways), one of the big on-line printing services. If you look in the thread I linked to you'll see that the 3d print did the raised detail and paneling pretty well. Some details are slightly enlarged to print, but I'm still trying to understand what can be done. My main issue is painting the droplights and bollections neatly. On the autotrailer, I cheated and used a separate thin patch of plasticard in front of the glazing cut to the droplight shape and pre-painted maroon. With the body side panelling I lost some of the detail as the the material used (and similar others) gives a slightly rough texture and I sanded it down a bit too heavily. Yes there was issue with masking. Thanks for the advice on masking, I do use Tamiya tape and generally find it good. What has complicated things is the join being at the point of the beading above the mid-rift panels so a bit of touching up in order. I did leave it on quite a while IIRC. The paints used are railmatch acrylics - from my experience on the autotrailer this seemed to to work best with the 3d printed material for me. This was on top of grey primer, but I sprayed that on too heavily. So more care generally is order, really. With this and the autotrailer as I've added more detail it's started to come together better so fingers crossed. Thanks again Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 Having been distracted by my attempt at making a toplight using 3d printing, I have finally got the A7 autotrailer finished. So the painting, lining and transfers aren't as neat as they could be but I am pleased with the result, something different from the standard Hornby model and accurate for the prototype (Kidlington and Woodstock branch) in my chosen post war period. Thanks again to Rue_d_etropal (Simon Dawson) for the 3d printed model. All the best Jon 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold nickwood Posted February 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2018 That certainly looks the part Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 6, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 6, 2018 I do like the tension lock uncoupling "paddle"... At first glance I thought it was an overscale Hoover..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rue_d_etropal Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Nice to see the model. I don't now get models printed myself, unless I am trying something completely new. Pleased I did not try to do the folding steps, as they are far too fine for 3D printing. When it comes to painting WSF plastic, it is worth while experimenting, as I do, and taking it step by step. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 When it comes to painting WSF plastic, it is worth while experimenting, as I do, and taking it step by step. Good point, that is dawning on me as my experiments with my own 3d printed designs let down by my ham fisted painting. I'll get better with practise I hope. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post The Great Bear Posted February 26, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 26, 2018 (edited) Of course I succumbed and bought one of the recent Oxford Dean Goods. So here it is on a short freight train. Quite like this view with the camera precariously perched on the overbridge, shows the cab detail on the loco and the station nicely and the "arty"picture In due course 2475 will be renumbered and re-liveried and weathered (and the silver handrails painted) to something more appropriate - have in mind 2408, a Banbury loco, if the model suits that? All the best Jon Edited February 26, 2018 by The Great Bear 23 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 Another cute engine joins the (rare) running session. (Must find the detailing pack for this one and work out what it's identity will be. Should have cleaned off the dust first before running too! ) Second coach is my 3d printed Toplight, being nearest the camera doesn't do it any favours:( All the best Jon 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium M.I.B Posted March 2, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 2, 2018 I love the track, ballast and especially the point rod-ing. Brilliant. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 I love the track, ballast and especially the point rod-ing. Brilliant. Thank you. I still need to tidy up the ballasting around the points. (The plain track is think C+L on tracklay sticky sided foam. Not cheap but easy to use.) Mind you if Peco continue to expand their bullhead range I may rip some out and replace with them. Whilst adding the chairs (to most of them) inspired by Ben Alder improves the look, the different spacing and length still jars a bit. The layout will never be finished! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
County of Yorkshire Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 Could I please ask for more info on the 3d printed toplight? Where/how/when etc? Cheers, CoY Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 Could I please ask for more info on the 3d printed toplight? Where/how/when etc? Cheers, CoY Sure - details are in this thread http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/130385-3d-printed-gwr-coaches-testing-materials-continued/?p=3012000 I need to finish the cad for another go, taking on board the lessons from the little trial pieces. May do two in different materials. Painting the thing well enough is the biggest issue for me - so next one(s) may be in wartime brown, I think I can manage that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 A productive weekend weathering wagons: The coal, Carr's, looks a bit too shiny perhaps, might try and get some real coal! More varied loads for the opens and some sheeted loads are on the agenda. I need to find an Ian Rice book I've got that's gone some nice details on this kind of stuff. Not sure about the yellowish paint used for the replacement planks on the one on the right...will revisit that one Done by dry brushing following a diluted black wash, no airbrush here! (It irks that most weathering articles/specials seem to concentrate on that, as if they are sponsored by airbrush suppliers!) I am reasonably pleased with the result and I found it quite therapeutic doing this. Building up to doing a loco... All the best Jon 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) I agree about weathering articles majoring on airbrushing.... My circumstances rule out an airbrush....so I don't have one. Yes, you can get some good effects with spraying....but it comes at the cost of having to have some basic facilities, otherwise you could end up with "weathered" lungs! It is indeed therapeutic.....and something that can be done quietly on a small bench or tray....away from the layout. I do like your fleet. It is coming on niceley. You could experiment with some matt varnish if the coal is too shiny? (Some mineral waons on Ffrwd Locks.... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/76497-sarahs-projects/?p=3020873 ) Edited March 7, 2018 by Sarahagain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 The last few months I've spent playing with CAD and 3d printing with a number of suppliers and materials making some Toplights to give me some variety in the coaching stock. Details of my experiments can be found here So this is where I've gotten to: 1st attempt - C30 Bars I 56' Corridor Third Body and interior printed by Sculpteo in HP Multijet Fusion nylon Underframe in Shapeways White Strong and Flexible (WSF) nylon, similar applies to all the following ones. Grab handles, vents, corridors by Comet models, hinges bits of plasticard. Bogies from Stafford Road models Shapeways shop, same applies to all the following ones too. Quite a lot of mistakes along the way and the painting vey heavy handed, especially the bollections and droplights. 2d attempt - E83 57' Bars I Corridor Composite Body printed by Shapeways in Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD). Roof vents part of the model (done the wrong way around - oops) as are the hinges and corridor ends now part of the body and buffers also included in the underframe model. Grab handles separate again from Comet. Whilst I chickened out here with the wartime brown livery to make things easer I was still far too heavy with the paint on this one! 3rd attempt - D46 56' Bars I Corridor Brake Third Body again in FUD. Grab handles this time were part of the model. 4th attempt - C31 57' Bars I Corridor Third Body this time in resin from 3d Hubs 5th attempt - C32 57' Multibar Corridor Third In resin like the above, but the hinges and some other small details on the body did not print so hinges added with platicard 6th attempt - E93 Bars II 70' Corridor Composite Similar to the above. 7th attempt - D56 Multibar 57' Corridor Brake Third Similar to the last one, hinges again did not print. Grab handles separately fitted, printed by Shapeways in FUD. Some more brakes are next, probably. In the meantime, I need to clear the mess on the layout to run these! All the best Jon 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denbridge Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 The last few months I've spent playing with CAD and 3d printing with a number of suppliers and materials making some Toplights to give me some variety in the coaching stock. Details of my experiments can be found here So this is where I've gotten to: 1st attempt - C30 Bars I 56' Corridor Third Body and interior printed by Sculpteo in HP Multijet Fusion nylon Underframe in Shapeways White Strong and Flexible (WSF) nylon, similar applies to all the following ones. Grab handles, vents, corridors by Comet models, hinges bits of plasticard. Bogies from Stafford Road models Shapeways shop, same applies to all the following ones too. Quite a lot of mistakes along the way and the painting vey heavy handed, especially the bollections and droplights. 2d attempt - E83 57' Bars I Corridor Composite Body printed by Shapeways in Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD). Roof vents part of the model (done the wrong way around - oops) as are the hinges and corridor ends now part of the body and buffers also included in the underframe model. Grab handles separate again from Comet. Whilst I chickened out here with the wartime brown livery to make things easer I was still far too heavy with the paint on this one! 3rd attempt - D46 56' Bars I Corridor Brake Third Body again in FUD. Grab handles this time were part of the model. 4th attempt - C31 57' Bars I Corridor Third Body this time in resin from 3d Hubs 5th attempt - C32 57' Multibar Corridor Third In resin like the above, but the hinges and some other small details on the body did not print so hinges added with platicard 6th attempt - E93 Bars II 70' Corridor Composite Similar to the above. 7th attempt - D56 Multibar 57' Corridor Brake Third Similar to the last one, hinges again did not print. Grab handles separately fitted, printed by Shapeways in FUD. Some more brakes are next, probably. In the meantime, I need to clear the mess on the layout to run these! All the best Jon are these going to be available via shapeways? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Great Bear Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 are these going to be available via shapeways? Thank you. Maybe is the answer. If you look at the other thread you can see that the Shapeways FUD (or whatever it is called now) is not the best finish, the resin prints I have got from 3d hubs are better. 3d hubs is just a manufacturing service and you can't set up a shop. Also the prints from that service at an economical price come from China which is not so straightforward; latest order is delayed due to issues with shipping/customs. Shapeways I think is far too expensive, the body shell alone in FUD would be £85 (or £58 in WSF but the finish is nowhere near good enough and for the panelled coaches sanding to get a smooth finish would degrade the panelling), the underframe in WSF £18, the interior in WSF £30, so nearly £140. Ouch!!! I am still exploring 3d hubs and if I can reliably get stuff done via that maybe then I can offer these to others I but it is not so straightforward. I am toying with getting a 3d printer but resin printers don't come cheaply and I am not sure I can justify that based on my own needs (or even with the odd print for others) - even with man maths! Thanks for the interest and do watch this space! Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold checkrail Posted May 31, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 31, 2018 Gosh, you've been very productive! Having just read through the thread on the toplights I'm full of admiration for the way you've mastered and refined the technical issues as you went along. And what a variety of diagrams. Nice work. Think I'll just plough on with the couple of kits I've got in hand, while awaiting the promised Slaters renaissance! Would love to see more pics of Marlingford & Begbrooke in due course. John C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjrixon Posted May 31, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 31, 2018 You are making some nice progress, I see what you mean about the 3d hubs ones, that's quite a nice finish. Fingers crossed we see some from Slaters, as with those costs I'm thinking we won't see much uptake! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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