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O Scale Class 14 kit


F-UnitMad

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Hi All,

 

Just an update from me. The frames duly arrived from Jordan and having taken a look in the box, there`s not a lot is there ?. The frames are a bit too thin I think, only 18thou", so they will need some extra strengthening over their length. I can confirm that there is no comedy soldering, just a little tidying up required. As there appears to be no frame overlays, is there Jordan ?, then they will need to be filled in and filed flush where the stretchers protrude.

I am taking photo`s as I go along so expect something to show up next week. Just wondering if we should drive this thing off the Jackshaft if space permits ?.

 

Kindest

 

Ian

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Thanks are due to Ian for his expert help.:icon_thumbsup2:

 

The Jackshaft axle is under the cab, and no provision (i.e. hole in the footplate] was made to drive this axle.

 

Well if you consider sitting up a Shed on a dark evening, in coat & woolly hat, with a Halogen Heater and the noise of the rain on the roof for company, as "Normal", then the promised "Normal Service" was resumed today, with a bit more progress.

The bonnet side door latches (little strips of nickel silver) were soldered in place, and the 0.7mm dia rod used for the mounting brackets for the bonnet side-rails fitted.

I did this by running the rod straight through both holes opposite each other and soldering from inside so they're straight (as near as makes no odds), and used a steel rule as a 'depth gauge' to snip them off so they're all the same length. Hopefully the pics should explain things, although again I must apologise as I keep forgetting to a) take my decent camera up the shed, and B) take pictures as I work...

 

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Some of the cab details need fitting before the door insets can be fitted; parts of the desk will be difficult to paint later, so a basic coat of black covers everything at the moment ( except the two corners masked off where the doors go and a tab is soldered from the cab sides.)

Class14J006.jpg

 

Some of the individual levers were a little 'vague' and not all the items required seem to be in the kit; some bits I've made up from plastic scrap; all the details were just superglued in place.

The basic cab interior is now in place...

Class14J008.jpg

 

...along with the electrical cabinet on the A-end wall. I've been adding lead flashing strip as I go for extra weight; there's about three layers under the cab floor, there's some inside this cabinet, and there's even a bit in the control desk!! "Every little helps.." I think the phrase is... :icon_lol:

 

Class14J007.jpg

 

Another snag has arisen, too... I've just realised that there's only one horns box casting supplied (on the top of the bonnet in the above pic) ...there should've been two...:icon_rolleyes: :icon_mutter:

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Oh dear, hoisted by my own whatsisname. I'd better try and find those pics hadn't I...?

Sorry, Steph; just a bit of a bump to this post... you wouldn't happen to have got decent pictures of the chassis details in your collection, would you? ;)

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I will be nice when someone brings out a new model for this loco in resin,whish i had sprung the one that i have just finnished.

The "someone" will be JLTRT, who have announced the Class 14 as a future model. It'll be interesting to see what they do about the chassis, although I shouldn't think it'll cause them any problems as don't they (or an associate?) make Steam outline kits too?

 

Your comment about springing is interesting, Welsh Wizzard. Is it this kit, and can you expand on why you wish you'd done so?

 

On my model a bit more progress was made; those little "things" along the tops of the bonnets have been added... they're whitemetal 'shapes' - I don't know what they are for !! The treads in each of the corner steps have been added, and the steps for under the cab doors folded up, but I shan't fix these till later, when I have the chassis back, to check clearances over the wheels and motion. Finally the B-end has had a lot of lead stuffed in it; will have to be careful I don't put my back out lifting this loco... :icon_eek:

Pics will follow once camera batteries have recharged... :icon_rolleyes: :icon_redface: :icon_mutter:

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Some more progress and pics today... (despite the cold in the shed!!)

 

The main bodywork is now complete- it's a case of adding all the little bits now.

 

The B-end bonnet has been filled with lead strip...

Class14K001.jpg

 

...and the whitemetal end piece fitted, with the etched end door overlays added. The joint will need some filler.

The handrails have been added at that end too, so it's looking better at that end now!

 

Class14K002.jpg

 

Class14K003.jpg

 

I have no idea what these small details are on top of the bonnets, but they're in place now, anyway, as is the exhaust stack (I need to find out what the actual vent looks like, though!) and the second horns box just in front of it. Having posted that it was missing, my Shed Gremlins must've got bored of hiding it, and I found it in with the sandbox castings! D'oh!! :icon_rolleyes:

Class14K004.jpg

 

At the A-end I'm looking to use a CD motor and small battery to drive the fan, like I did on the Class 22. I've built up a mounting bracket and fan housing from scrap etch, which the motor will be fixed to. I still have to work out how to mount the battery and switch, though.

Class14K005.jpg

 

Finally for now I've tried to get a slightly better pic of the electrical cabinet in the cab, as this piece does have some very nice etched details on it. It's nice to show the good points of a kit, as well as the not-so-good bits... :icon_winker:

Class14K006.jpg

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Here are some pics of my 14. I used Slaters plungers on by the look of it. The plungers go through the spring casting so they are not a mile off the rear of the wheels if they were set back in the frames (except for the ones next to the motor in the pic). I also made the cab roof removeable by soldering a strip of brass on the edges both sides that "spring clip" themselves under the top ofthe cab sides.

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:icon_wow: Wow, very nice- thanks for posting these pics up, Brian! :icon_biggrin: ... I'm not sure mine is going to look as good as that... :icon_redface:

 

A few more questions answered, too, like what certain castings are, and why I had two vents left over from the bonnets... they go on the cab. Oh heck, I do hope I haven't thrown them away..!! :icon_e_confused: :icon_redface: :icon_frustrated:

I was looking at the doors yesterday... I can't seem to make top-or-tail of how to hinge them. The instructions are a little vague for quite a few areas of the model.

Your cab roof is slightly different to mine, too. The rainstrip is on the roof, not the cab side. I haven't yet tackled bending it to shape.

 

The close-up pics of the real 14s you posted made me realise that I've never actually stood right next to one!! The only ones I've seen are the two at Norchard, DFR, and they've been in the yard across from the platform... so near, yet so far...

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Ok then here are some pics of 14's for you Jorden. For some reason I haven't got any close up shots of the underframes before you asksad.gif You will have to post a pic of the roof and door hinges to try and remind me what I did on this one that I built quite a few years ago when it first came out.

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The "someone" will be JLTRT, who have announced the Class 14 as a future model. It'll be interesting to see what they do about the chassis, although I shouldn't think it'll cause them any problems as don't they (or an associate?) make Steam outline kits too?

 

Your comment about springing is interesting, Welsh Wizzard. Is it this kit, and can you expand on why you wish you'd done so?

 

On my model a bit more progress was made; those little "things" along the tops of the bonnets have been added... they're whitemetal 'shapes' - I don't know what they are for !! The treads in each of the corner steps have been added, and the steps for under the cab doors folded up, but I shan't fix these till later, when I have the chassis back, to check clearances over the wheels and motion. Finally the B-end has had a lot of lead stuffed in it; will have to be careful I don't put my back out lifting this loco... :icon_eek:

Pics will follow once camera batteries have recharged... :icon_rolleyes: :icon_redface: :icon_mutter:

 

Jordan i hope that Pete does produce the kit, as far as the springing is concerned i would have used Slaters nylon blocks and the split axle system for pic up.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I must record here my apologies for the lack of posts recently, quite apart from the problems afflicting RMweb at present...

Due to the very low temperatures outdoors I've not been up the shed to do any modelling at all recently. Using heating in the shed is possible but produces condensation on the inside of the roof that then falls like rain if it gets too bad!! It's far from an ideal situation; in the summer (assuming we get one!) I intend to investigate doing something about it, since I get similar problems when the sun hits the roof after a cold night; even if it comes to complete replacement of the steel with wood panels and roofing felt...

As the snow cleared last night I hope to resume normal service soon, once again!!

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Now the temperature is a balmy 7 degrees or so work has resumed...

 

The fan and it's motor are now in place; a mini-battery holder will be wired in and just sit under the motor, and will be easy to pull out from underneath to change batteries.

The motor is now hidden away behind the A-end nose, and the fan grille soldered over the top (yellow peice of card protecting the fan). Brass lifting rings have been soldered in place on the hoods (sorry, 'bonnets'!) and a lot of cleaning up taking place.

 

SDC10399.jpg

 

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The noses have a shallow rake to them; hopefully I've got it about right...

A-End:

SDC10404.jpg

 

B-End:

SDC10405.jpg

 

Finally for now the supplied cast buffers aren't much cop, so I'm replacing them with these Slater's GWR Collet types; pretty much the same style.

 

SDC10401.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just the one picture taken today in fading light...

 

Class14G1.jpg

 

The cab doors on this kit are supposed to be able to be fitted so they are hinged and can open & close. It can be done, because as he's shown, Brian Daniels has done it, but I couldn't make head or tail of it; there are 'fillet' pieces to create the door recesses, but these are too short to fit the openings, and the instructions and "diagram" concerning this feature take being vague to a new level...

So, sorry everyone but I gave up in the end, made my own fillets from scrap brass strip, and soldered the doors in place ! Not wanting to lose the 'opening' feature completely, one of the doors has been soldered open- the other one is very firmly shut!!

Some more cab details are being added, and the exhaust stack detailed, with a 5mm hole drilled for the bore, and hatch added.

 

I had a "D'oh!" moment with the brake wheel & stand, though. It fits behind the nearest door in this picture, so I soldered it in place before tackling the door... then caught the brake wheel with the soldering iron! Part of the wheel promptly transformed into a small blob of whitemetal, so I've replaced it with a spare brake wheel for an American Boxcar; it's a bit bigger but will have to do, and is fairly hidden anyway! (Except now I've said, so you'll all be looking for it...!)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry for the delay in updates... what with all the Search and PM systems being down I've had trouble even finding my own thread...!!

No pics, but virtually all the bits are on the body now, bar the handrails around the bonnets, the cab roof (still to be rolled), the crew & seats, and the buffer heads.

The buffer heads caused me a bit of fun... the replacement Slaters are of course round heads; in fact I haven't seen any oval turned buffers anywhere? No worries, I thought; I'll cut the cast whitemetal oval buffers off their shanks and solder them to the Slaters. Not so easy! The Slaters are of course steel and wouldn't take low melt solder. using a hotter iron would melt the whitemetal...

Fortunately this kit provides plenty of scrap metal; I traced the outline of one of the oval buffers out on some nickel-silver with a scriber and cut them out as near as possible with shears, then soldered them to the steel buffers with high-temp solder and my good meaty 80Watt iron. Now "all" I have to do is file them to shape...

Some filler putty had been applied to various areas and will also need smoothing. Plenty of comedy soldering to clean up too, and we shouldn't be too far from a coat of primer...

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  • 2 weeks later...

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