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Wheel sets


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I am blundering around in the dark as usual.

 

I would like to know where I can get wagon wheel sets with only one metal wheel insulated, So I can collect power from the axles via a phosper bonze strip. I expect this has already been covered but I have not been able to devise a good search.

 

Any suggestions appreciated. (on subject).

 

BobM

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Unless you always run your wagons the same way round then this I can see giving problems. If you effectively short out one wheel to axle you'll be able to collect, but if you turn the wagon round the collection will be from the other rail - the opposite polarity.All of my wheelsets are plastic spoked, metal tyred, so soldering a shorting wire twixt rim and axle is going to make the plastic suffer when you solder.

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Unless you always run your wagons the same way round then this I can see giving problems. If you effectively short out one wheel to axle you'll be able to collect, but if you turn the wagon round the collection will be from the other rail - the opposite polarity.All of my wheelsets are plastic spoked, metal tyred, so soldering a shorting wire twixt rim and axle is going to make the plastic suffer when you solder.

 

Appreciate what you say. But for lighting would it matter?

 

In reality I intend to connect the power supply to a bridge rectifier to give a constant +ve supply. ( But with a small voltage drop.) So I would like to find a supply of wheel sets with metal wheels and axles but one wheel insulated from the axle.

 

BobM

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Couldn't you have a collector rubbing on the top of the tread hidden behind the solebar? Or am I missing the point? Other question: why do you want to light wagons? That last bit may have something to do with the fact that my interest in railways ends with the outbreak of WW2!

 

 

Richard

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I am modelling freelance H0 U.S. outline and using HOTE (Google it) for my control system. Unfortuneately I can't get my radio control chip into a couple of tank switchers I would like to run. So I think to myself that I can connect a caboose to the engine and put the radio control chip in the caboose. Well I could get the power from the engine pickups and feed it to the control system through the harness that I will need anyway. But it would be 2 wires less in the harness and a lot less complicated to get the power in and out from the caboose axles. The caboose is an Athearn blue box which are fantasic value for money but actually use plastic wheels which I would quite like to change for metal wheels anyway. The wheels are 9mm dia disc.

 

BobM

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Inter-City Models have a range of wheels - Superollers - http://www.intercitymodels.com/Superollers.html that come in a range of diameters (8.9 mm for example) and with a range of axle lengths (which may be important for an HO model) and can supply them with a pick-up arrangement. I don't know how well they work, they are solid turned brass with a blackening coating, and I haven't any experience of them myself.

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I am modelling freelance H0 U.S. outline and using HOTE (Google it) for my control system.

Googling on that is no help at all, innumerable hotels and restaurants, perhaps you could provide a url.

Thanks

Keith

 

By the way, if you get Kadee wheelsets they have metal wheels with plastic axles so you can set your wipers to bear on the backs of the wheels close to the axle. That will minimise the braking effect and you would be able to get full 8 wheel pick up rather than the 4 wheel pick up you would get with insulated one side and axle wipers.

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HOTE is HO train engineer. Try this link. www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/te_programming.html

 

I have reason to pursue Kadee anyway as I have at least 10 pairs of couplings to upgrade. So I shall take a good look at their wheel sets.

 

Likewise Intercity models.

 

Thanks to Grovenor and Nick Holliday

 

BobM

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