Scaffolding in 00

[oldrocker]

I've searched but can't find a topic so .. .

 

Has anyone tried this?

 

I painted some thin plastic rod, glued it, all fine until I picked it up a few days later when it fell apart as though nothing had happened !

 

Any tips?

 

[Dagworth]

This topic from the old RMweb may help http://rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19993

 

Andi

[scanman]

I've searched but can't find a topic so .. .

 

Has anyone tried this?

 

I painted some thin plastic rod, glued it, all fine until I picked it up a few days later when it fell apart as though nothing had happened !

 

Any tips?

 

 

Sounds daft - but the process is the wrong way round. Glue the rod - then paint it. Acrylic/enamel paints will not 'bond' with solvent adhesives - in fact they act as a barrier. You need a plastic/plastic interface for the solvent to work. Once assembled you'll probably get a better paint coverage using aerosol spray - make sure it's enamel/acrylic NOT cellulose based!

 

Regs

 

Ian

[corax67]

You could try the Preiser scaffolding packs - I know it is HO but it looks really good.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/images/B000KSNDEM/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&n=468292&s=kids

[br2975]

My brother, Paul (aka Naturol), has included a large amount of scaffolding on his 4mm layout, Ranelagh Bridge stabling point, which can be found at:-

.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/29249-ranelagh-bridge-road/

.

He used wire intended either for florists, or jewellery makers, from Hobbycraft, and it is either soldered, or super-glued.

.

As the scaffolding is at the rear of the layout, no attempt was made to portray the fittings.

.

When the pictures were taken, some of the scaffold boards, and kick/toe boards had not been re-fitted.

.

Paul's first attempt at scaffolding was using pasta, namely spaghetti, glued together then sprayed silver and weathered. That was much too chunky, and worse followed, the damp atmosphere in our (then) clubroom attacked the scaffold, sorry spaghetti, which bent and buckled and would have been a years work for the Health & Safety Executive !.

.

The original version can be found here:-

.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=20881

.

At next weeks club meeting one of our members, Dave (aka Danemouth) has promised to take some more photos, so hopefully there may be some close-ups of the scaffold.

.

One word of warning !

.

It appears that the system of scaffolding used by Paul is not entirely prototypically accurate, as pointed out by one contributor; but as no further information was provided we are unsure just what the inaccuracy is.

.

As a result, for your own safety may I suggest you research the type of scaffold you are going to erect, in order to portray it accurately.

.

You may wish to visit a site such as:-

.

http://www.tubitt.com/scaffoldingtypes.asp

.

Or, there was actually an article published in the railway Modeller in the early 1960s describing the (then) two main types of scaffolding in general use, and how to build them in 4mm - the scaffold looked convincing, and hit the less than convincing Bilteezi factory.

.

If you want any further info, please drop me a PM

.

Brian R.

[Minster]

My brother, Paul (aka Naturol), has included a large amount of scaffolding on his 4mm layout, Ranelagh Bridge stabling point, which can be found at:-

.

http://www.rmweb.co....gh-bridge-road/

.

He used wire intended either for florists, or jewellery makers, from Hobbycraft, and it is either soldered, or super-glued.

.

As the scaffolding is at the rear of the layout, no attempt was made to portray the fittings.

.

When the pictures were taken, some of the scaffold boards, and kick/toe boards had not been re-fitted.

.

Paul's first attempt at scaffolding was using pasta, namely spaghetti, glued together then sprayed silver and weathered. That was much too chunky, and worse followed, the damp atmosphere in our (then) clubroom attacked the scaffold, sorry spaghetti, which bent and buckled and would have been a years work for the Health & Safety Executive !.

.

The original version can be found here:-

.

http://www.rmweb.co....php?f=5&t=20881

.

At next weeks club meeting one of our members, Dave (aka Danemouth) has promised to take some more photos, so hopefully there may be some close-ups of the scaffold.

.

One word of warning !

.

It appears that the system of scaffolding used by Paul is not entirely prototypically accurate, as pointed out by one contributor; but as no further information was provided we are unsure just what the inaccuracy is.

.

As a result, for your own safety may I suggest you research the type of scaffold you are going to erect, in order to portray it accurately.

.

You may wish to visit a site such as:-

.

http://www.tubitt.co...oldingtypes.asp

.

Or, there was actually an article published in the railway Modeller in the early 1960s describing the (then) two main types of scaffolding in general use, and how to build them in 4mm - the scaffold looked convincing, and hit the less than convincing Bilteezi factory.

.

If you want any further info, please drop me a PM

.

Brian R.

 

Hi,

 

 

Some excellent drawings giving all the dimensions you require to build the perfect scaffold on the link you gave.

well done on supplying the elusive 'knowledge'

 

John.

[Guest jim s-w]

Hi All

 

Scaffolding is a lot finer than you think. I would solder it from 0.6mm brass wire (avaialble from Eileens)

 

HTH

 

Jim

[corax67]

From a true scale standpoint you are looking at standard scaffold tubes being 48mm diameter which in OO (1/76) equates to using wire or plastic rod of 0.63mm diameter (23 SWG).

 

You may struggle to reproduce the fittings effectively but as Jim says you can solder the wire and that should do the job sufficiently.

[Jim the Tram]

From a true scale standpoint you are looking at standard scaffold tubes being 48mm diameter which in OO (1/76) equates to using wire or plastic rod of 0.63mm diameter (23 SWG).

 

You may struggle to reproduce the fittings effectively but as Jim says you can solder the wire and that should do the job sufficiently.

At that size I'd use piano wire as it is very strong & self supporting. Solder-able or could be supeerglued or epoxied.

[robbostrains]

Hi,only just seen this post.As a scaffolder for over 40 years I have given out on a few times about modelling scaffolding.I have never seen it done right and was shot down by a few fellow forum members because I pointed this out.Scaffolding is a very complex trade,it has to go up a certain way or it will collapse.OK that's not always the case,like most trades you get good and bad!!It must be braced every other bay,a bay is the distance between each upright,usually about 6ft apart,it goes up in lifts or stages usually 6ft 6ins or 2mtrs high,they are between 4or 5 boards wide between facing uprights,with one or two inside boards.Board are 9ins wide,longest 13 ft,10ft,8ft, 6ft, 4 fts,so an average scaffold would be abut 60ins wide.The main tubes are ledgers they are the ones that run the length of the scaffold, biggest are 21ft.On them are the shorter tube or transoms that the boards sit on,usually 5 or 6fts.and as I said braces,8fts,every other upright usually pointing out,then there must be a diagonal brace on the front of the job.These can be dog legged on one bay all the way up ,it used to be every 100ft now it's every 30ft Then you need handrails every lift,3ft high, single years ago now its double, one at 3ft one 15ins down from top one,then toe boards on the working lifts.Not forgetting ladders.Biggest used to go three lifts or 21ft now it's two lifts.That's a basic scaffold,on thing that bugs me is some of the models I have seen seem to have modelled tubes as thick a tree trunks that you would need a crane to lift!!A scaffold tube is about 2ins round, your hand just fits round it.There are a lot of sites with pics of scaffolding on,modern and from years ago.Hope this has been of help.

[Minster]

Hi,

Thanks for supplying a lot of very useful data, only thing I would say with regards to the tube size is that from a model aspect you need to keep it as true to scale as possible but have to have things slightly oversize on times just to see the actual model itself and at 0.6mm it would be rather too fine to see in its full glory.

If you tried to put a mesh safety net on it at that fine scale it would have to be a single strand of silk to make up the mesh!

I think it has to be a case of making it as fine as possible without it virtually disappearing.

After all I know all the people on Minster wear at least size 20 shoes to stop them falling over!

 

John

[Guest jim s-w]

Eh?

 

This is 0.6mm tube - its a long way from too fine to see or work with.

 

 

As is the horizontal tube here - This has the return wire running down it for the SMT LED too

 

 

HTH

 

Jim