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The Great RMweb 2FS Build Off


Bryn

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I'd endorse Natalie's comment about the bit cleaner and tinning agent - I have one and swear by it. I'd also heap more praise on Ant's 16tonner. I keep thinking that the Bachmann Farish job is such a nice product, why bother? Then I look at something like Ant's efforts - or Chris Mills of the North East Area Group - and I feel completely outclassed!

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  • RMweb Gold

....waiting to get on the starting block....even though its not a race...more of a marathon I guess...where we all get to be winners having built something.

 

over to you Bryn.... :triniti: :triniti:

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Brilliant stuff Bryn. Just had a look through the build thread and am seriously impressed. Its this kind of thing that will greatly advance 2FS modelling by debunking many of the myths and mystique that surround it. Would be great if, at the end of it, those taking part could get together - hopefully a good sized train could be assembled. More power to your collective elbows.

Jerry

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Brilliant stuff Bryn. Just had a look through the build thread and am seriously impressed. Its this kind of thing that will greatly advance 2FS modelling by debunking many of the myths and mystique that surround it. Would be great if, at the end of it, those taking part could get together - hopefully a good sized train could be assembled. More power to your collective elbows.

Jerry

 

Next we'll be building some TTA tankers and brake vans. I think you've stumbled across my plan to have Colwyn Bay Goods built by other people ;)

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Years of accumulated varied junk, I'm not even sure what's back there anymore!

 

I'm hoping the concept will work, writing it was quite a painful experience! Took about 4 hours today, lots of messing around with the camera mainly. Also drawing the line on how much to detail to go into, I've decided to go along the lines of keeping it brief rather than spoon feeding. I could write ten thousand words on the subject, but people won't learn and come up with their own methods and techniques that way. I've started the ball rolling now, I've now just have to hope people get involved.

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I think you've got it about right. Show and tell en-mass is easy on the internet (apart from the time taken documenting stuff) and those that are interested will either work it out or ask. You've given them a contact point for help and judging from this thread there will be quite a few sharing experiences and helping out forming a self supporting group. With luck your requested input, other than documenting your build, will be fairly small.

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Hi,

 

looking good, as per usual i havent had chance to get my kits and bits yet, too much of my normal work going on BUT i will catch up at sum point and keep up the good work and i will try and get the bits ready for the next build ( if there is one)

 

I know it may be a pain but if you are willing to do another one and people would like it could you post the parts list ie kit etc so I we have a bit more time to source the items needed

 

cheers

Simon

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Excellent write up Bryn. I'm looking forward to filling the swearbox, though it'll have to wait until next week due to work commitments. Until then I've a question, though it may be better posted on the build thread.

 

Paul

 

Edit : My question was answered in your write up :)

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So, I had a couple of unexpected hours free, got everything ready, cut the bits off the frets I needed to, turned the brand new and unused antex iron on (with solder paint on the tip to tin it) and nothing. No heat at all. Checked fuse, 3A and working. Unless there's a secret 'on' swtich to them, I'd say it's broke. After putting all the kit away (I'm a dining room modeller with a curious toddler) I sent a quick email to the online shop to arrange a return.

 

But on the plus side, I didn't burn my fingers, carpet, clothes, table or cat, I didn't knock over the flux and I did save a few quid from the swear box.

 

Paul

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Soldering iron or RSU
  • Solder/Solder paste
  • Flux
  • A tapered reamer (or a 1mm drill bit)
  • Cocktail stick
  • A scalpel with a new blade
  • Top hat bearings
  • A firm surface to solder on
  • A fine needle file

 

 

 

Hi Bryn, somewhat later than I had hoped I have nearly all necessary bits for the build-off apart from the reamer. I have a basic question in that are reamers and broach files the same thing? and are there any recommendations for types/sizes/make and where is a good place to get them from? Many thanks and I am going to take these with me for Christmas break to progress.

Regards

Tom

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Hi Bryn, somewhat later than I had hoped I have nearly all necessary bits for the build-off apart from the reamer. I have a basic question in that are reamers and broach files the same thing? and are there any recommendations for types/sizes/make and where is a good place to get them from? Many thanks and I am going to take these with me for Christmas break to progress.

Regards

Tom

Tom

 

Relying on Wikipedia to cover my ignorance of such technical matters, it appears that the difference is that reamers are used by hand, broaches are used in machines, on which basis you probably want reamers. Conversely, the Shesto site appears to use broach for the (almost) parallel style, which is probably the one that you should buy, and reamer for the heavily tapered style.

 

The ones I have seen were unbranded - sets of about six, generally in ranges of sizes, and costing around £10 for a set.

 

I would probably recommend the 0.6mm to 2.0mm set, though I've also found the smallest size in the 0.4mm to 1.4mm extremely useful at times.

 

Usual suspects as suppliers - Eileen's, Shesto or Squires (subject to status check on Squires).

 

There's also a distinction on the Shesto site between cutting and smoothing broaches - I'm not sure which mine are, but I think probably cutting broaches.

 

David

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You usually see wallets (green for the small sizes, yellow for larger) in model shops. I don't know what brand they are either. I have the green set because that covers the opening of the small and delicate holes we see so often in our scale. Anything larger and I can use a rat tail file, or just drill the size I want it. It would be possible to build the kit without a reamer, I am sure. Drill everything that you want to put 0.3mm wire through 0.30-0.35mm and the bearing cup holes 0.9-1.0mm. This, of course, assumes that you have a good selection of drills and things to hold them with?

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Thanks gents, I will get a set of both then I can't go too wrong!! I am hoping to get them before I leave London to work on my mineral wagon and as there is no where near me that I know of that does such things I will have to rely on mail order unless there is a show I can get to before but I doubt it.

Tom

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