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Farish Class 20


HealeyMills
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  • 2 years later...

Hi my new retooled 20 has sound fitted but wont move in any direction its has its set address so im thinking the props come loose  if so how do these come apart as i cant see where the screws are located i know the cab is separate ..any help would be appreciated.

 

Mytrains.

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  • 2 years later...

Ive just got a green one with SYP but it was DOA (or it wouldn't run at all to start with, then ran for 20 minutes, then never ran again on DCC or DC).  I took the precaution of buying it DCC fitted so I couldn't be blamed for messing it up, so it's going back for replacement.

 

They are repulsively ugly things in certain liveries but they have a particular charm these days, especially as they're still in service here and there.

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On 30/11/2017 at 13:05, mytrains said:

Hi my new retooled 20 has sound fitted but wont move in any direction its has its set address so im thinking the props come loose  if so how do these come apart as i cant see where the screws are located i know the cab is separate ..any help would be appreciated.

 

Mytrains.

To take the body off you have to first pull the two bogies off, they just unclip with a little side to side wiggle, that then exposes the 4 retaining screws.

 

Hope this helped

 

Paul

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  • 3 years later...

Hi. Could somebody please help with removing the body on a China Farish class 20 please. I have removed the bogies and 4 screws from under the body, but the body is staying put. I was running the model today and it just stopped. No lights or electrical noise at all now. 

 

Normally I would just send it off for repair because (frankly) I'm a technical numpty, but I just thought I would give it a go and investigate and see if I cant have a go at fixing it myself. I am a DC user. 

 

Any help appreciated. 

Many thanks

Steve

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5 hours ago, steve1023 said:

Hi. Could somebody please help with removing the body on a China Farish class 20 please. I have removed the bogies and 4 screws from under the body, but the body is staying put. I was running the model today and it just stopped. No lights or electrical noise at all now. 

 

Normally I would just send it off for repair because (frankly) I'm a technical numpty, but I just thought I would give it a go and investigate and see if I cant have a go at fixing it myself. I am a DC user.

 

It should just be the four screws as shown in the instruction sheet https://Bachmann-spares.co.uk/file/Class-20.pdf

I haven't had mine apart, but there might be some form of light clip on feature that requires a little prising apart....

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The bodies are a close/tight fit on the chassis and I find you have to inch them up a bit at the ends in turn until it reaches a point when they come free.

 

Bob

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Thanks for the replies. I have managed to remove the body by pushing some old train tickets along the side between the body and chassis and then pushing down on the chassis in the cab area and it released. Very tough though. 

 

A follow up question would be what could be the problem? I have no lights or power/no electrical current going into the model. It is completely dead. Any help appreciated. 

 

Thanks

Steve

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ISTR that there can be an issue with the pcb’s in these in that a component fails. That sometimes they will run in one direction but not the other. It’s only a small part, diode or resistor, but for most users such as myself it’s above our pay grade to trace and replace and a new board is the only option. I am sure it’s these models, apologies if it isn’t.

 

Bob

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3 hours ago, steve1023 said:

Thanks for the replies. I have managed to remove the body by pushing some old train tickets along the side between the body and chassis and then pushing down on the chassis in the cab area and it released. Very tough though. 

 

A follow up question would be what could be the problem? I have no lights or power/no electrical current going into the model. It is completely dead. Any help appreciated. 

 

Thanks

Steve


The lights on my collectors club 20 didn’t work on receipt, and when I removed the body the contact strips for them were pretty filthy. Once cleaned all was fine. Worth checking the bogie contacts to make sure they’re not suffering the same problem. Also worth checking the DCC blanking plate is pushed all the way home. 
 

Tom. 

Edited by TomE
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