Jump to content

Blue Peter

a1 partwork Flying Scotsman

Recommended Posts

Hi All

 

well I put my build on hold until issue 100 came around since I wanted to see what the chassis/footplate fix was all about so I picked up my 100th issue yesterday and as usual it doesn't say much!! I should've just carried on regrdless :-) since we're left to our own devices here anyway!! are there any more brass bits to be fitted on the chassis once we've hit the 100's reason I ask is because I'm soldering my Loco together so I'd like to finish all the brasswork and then start on the whitemetal bits

 

Mark

 

Thats pretty much what I am doing, but it's not without its share of drama, is it? Waiting for bits, perusing each issue to see if there's anything you can put on and the like.

 

It would have been nice if they had included a parts list in issue one showing where the parts for each issue would be fitted, and what material they were made of, pretty simple and would have us all saved a lot of headaches.

 

From a business point of view of course, the build sequence has the advantage (to them) that people wont be building a chassis to scratchbuild on, then bailing out. Still, it could have been improved by using sub-assemblies that we could have switched between, say every two or three issues.

 

My next step is now going to be to sort the magazines themselves into sub assembly lots, and build each said assembly as I have the bits. Now that we are up to 106 here, that will be a lot easier.

 

Sadly though, by the time us poor beggers in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa get anywhere near complete, I would think that many of the knowledgable contributors on this forum will have completed thiers and moved on to other projects.cool.gif

 

Bushrat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats pretty much what I am doing, but it's not without its share of drama, is it? Waiting for bits, perusing each issue to see if there's anything you can put on and the like.

 

It would have been nice if they had included a parts list in issue one showing where the parts for each issue would be fitted, and what material they were made of, pretty simple and would have us all saved a lot of headaches.

 

From a business point of view of course, the build sequence has the advantage (to them) that people wont be building a chassis to scratchbuild on, then bailing out. Still, it could have been improved by using sub-assemblies that we could have switched between, say every two or three issues.

 

My next step is now going to be to sort the magazines themselves into sub assembly lots, and build each said assembly as I have the bits. Now that we are up to 106 here, that will be a lot easier.

 

Sadly though, by the time us poor beggers in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa get anywhere near complete, I would think that many of the knowledgable contributors on this forum will have completed thiers and moved on to other projects.cool.gif

 

Bushrat

 

Hi bushrat - if it's any help a fellow builder (on Facebook) compiled a XCEL spreadsheet detailing the parts/issue nos and I've combined this with my own list & notes and have attached the file elsewhere, but repeat below, in case you have missed it. Hope it can be of some help.

 

Regards, P

2552 Build Schedule.xls

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi bushrat - if it's any help a fellow builder (on Facebook) compiled a XCEL spreadsheet detailing the parts/issue nos and I've combined this with my own list & notes and have attached the file elsewhere, but repeat below, in case you have missed it. Hope it can be of some help.

 

Regards, P

 

Thanks Paul,

 

Hows yours going?

 

Bushrat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Paul,

 

Hows yours going?

 

Bushrat

 

Hi Bushrat, Construction has paused for a short while, as I'm working on a video of my club's 7mm layout for the Gauge O Guild library. Have promised completion for the Guild show in Sept - however, below is a link to the RMWeb gallery showing how far my A1 has progressed as at 19/July/2010.

 

Photographic link: http://www.rmweb.co....lbum&album=1033

 

Haven't followed construction in same order as Hatchette instructions, as I wanted to contruct in modules, to facilitate painting & transfers etc later on. The loco body, running plate & chassis can be disassembled as I have attached captive nuts inside from an idea spotted on a Model Rail Forum posting - http://www.modelrail...=0&?do=findComment&comment=151966, and tender in 2 parts.

 

My only real concern at this stage, will be construction of the valve gear / con rods etc as this is my first kit build of a loco. However, I'm hoping to meet up with a few 'experts' at the Guild show on 5th Sept. An area has been set aside for Hatchette builders to display models and meet for discussions. Will take some pic's and post on this forum after show. Despite some of the critisms of this kit - I have not really had any problem with the construction and found the instructions easy to follow, (maybe novice builder = a little ignorance) and an enjoyable build. Lessons learnt so far - (i) don't use superglue on metal, (ii) keep everything clean for successful soldering and (iii) do plenty of research - internet is ideal for this.

 

Perhaps other manufacturers might consider marketing their kits similar to Hatchette - as semi retired and relying mainly on my company pension, the idea of spreading the cost appeals to me. Would also like to see pictures of yours and other builders of this kit on forum - at various stages, as most people only show the finished & painted version and a picture can explain a lot.

 

Please let me know how you are progressing.

Regards, P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Would also like to see pictures of yours and other builders of this kit on forum - at various stages, as most people only show the finished & painted version and a picture can explain a lot.

Pictures of what people have been up to do seem a bit thin on the ground...

I have a build thread for mine though :) Linky

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ Paul and 30801:

 

Your models look pretty good! I just hope mine works out as well, a few pics on page 28(?)

 

It's a bit difficult at the moment, I am now switching between rebuilding a horse float which WAS going to be for my daughter, until she realised the horse was too long to go in it (dont even go there!!!!!), and home renovations with a bit of Flying Scotsman thrown in just to make things interesting! laugh.gif

 

Trouble is, when the end of the day comes and I settle in to do some quiet fettling, I end up being so tired I just sort of sit and stare blankly at it, wondering where to begin, and having really meaningful mumbling attacks! huh.gif

 

Not to worry, next week I have told everyone to nick off, and I'm going to have a few days at it. Maybe I will actually make a bit of progress! tongue.gif

 

I am building one original, one part scratchbuilt, and now possibly a third, having picked up 45 issues for a pretty fair price recently, so number three will be a part scratchbuilt model as well. Talk about getting carried away, I only bought issue one to get a cheap cab to play about with out of curiosity, I have NEVER modelled O guage, I have a small mixed oo/ho layout, but I do have a nice set of shelves to display them on!

 

Ooohhh Boy, why do I do stuff like this?! crazy_mini.gif

 

Bushrat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pictures of what people have been up to do seem a bit thin on the ground...

I have a build thread for mine though smile.gif Linky

 

Well done for displaying your build in this way - I'm going through all of your pictures and see if I can learn from them. A question was also asked of me - 'was I going to be using radiused beading?' My tyre industry background has a different meaning from steam locomotives on this subject. So does anyone out know of the term and what it means? A trawl through the internet did not provide an answer.

 

Many thanks - Regards,P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there, Bushrat,

 

It has been painful waiting and waiting for the next issue only to find that it's got something in it that's only going to be used 10 issues later! yes understandable from a business point of view but like Paul says they should've done it in sub-assemblies! all that aside though I must say I too have enjoyed putting this kit together and having to shell out a bit of cash once a week also appeals to me rather than a once off cost!

 

From a soldering point of view, I am using standard resin cored electronics grade solder, I also have a tube of liquid solder paste that they use for surface mount assemblies ( this has come in handy on the odd occasion ) Like you paul I think it's the only way to go, glue doesn't generally stick to metal too well. What I have found indispensable is plumbing flux ( this is a wax type flux that you can buy for copper piped plumbing jobs ) before I used this stuff I used to clean and polish my brass just to get a good solder flow, but with the plumbing flux it's as simple as just rubbing it on to the brass bits as is and then just soldering it directly! works like a charm, the solder flows like water and the beauty of it is, you wipe it along the etched edges of the brass and after that the solder gets in everywhere making a perfect join!

 

The other indispensable tool that I have is a cigar lighter, using this and the standard solder I have managed to solder a bolt to the backside of my kit's backhead ( I have a collection of 8BA bolts and nuts ) I also did the same for the sand dome and the smoke stack for the boiler. I drilled out the whitemetal studs on these ( bit tricky since you gotta do it dead centre then rubbed some flux paste on the thread of an 8BA bolt, tinned it, inserted it into the drilled out hole, heated it up with my cigar lighter until I got a nice flow of solder. Once cool I cut the head off and secured it with a nut! ( will post a pic if you guys want to see )

 

I have also replaced all the self tapping screws with 8BA bolts and nuts, A much better option I think

 

I have attached a PDF of the entire parts list, that I found on the site here a couple of post ago. The only problem with these parts lists is they don't say when and where these parts are required

 

cheers

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A question was also asked of me - 'was I going to be using radiused beading?' My tyre industry background has a different meaning from steam locomotives on this subject

I can only imagine it refers to rubbing down the brass beading before fixing so it has a curved profile instead of the square section it comes etched with.

 

I haven't done anything like that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can only imagine it refers to rubbing down the brass beading before fixing so it has a curved profile instead of the square section it comes etched with.

 

I haven't done anything like that.

 

Thanks 30801 - have gone back & looked at a number of photographs in close up and you are right. However, I'm too far into the build to change, apart from the cab - so may well try it on there.

 

Regards, P.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks 30801 - have gone back & looked at a number of photographs in close up and you are right. However, I'm too far into the build to change, apart from the cab - so may well try it on there.

 

Regards, P.

 

 

Hi guys,

 

Up till 1am, sorting out issues in build groups. Calamity! In issue 75 instructions for building motion brackets, but no instructions for mounting!

I can only assume that these are in one of the issues containing decals, which I did not buy, so I will have to go off photos as a reference.

 

Finally had a look at the brake mounting bit, and I think there are going to be real problems with this on the models that are built as runners. The end play on the wheels would suggest to me that they will touch the wheels and cause a short.

 

The instructions and build sequence for this are truly a dogs breakfast!

 

What do you think?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I havent got this far yet, but here is what I am thinking.........................

 

Go to Bunnings, get a small bottle of red pvc plumbing primer and a small blue glue - the type they use for joining plastic sewer and drainage pipes. Do a test on the plastic sprues that are at the front of the tender body to check for adverse affects, and if ok:

 

Get a piece of pvc angle, cut small sections or one long enough for each side, prime both faces with the red primer, coat one surface with blue glue, get body in position and hold together for a few seconds. STUCK! USE GLUE SPARINGLY _ IT DOESNT NEED MORE THAN A THIN EVEN COAT!

You would only have about two seconds to position the parts before they are joined forever, but they will be STUCK like the proverbial. Then its a simple matter of attaching the base of the angle to the tender floor with small screws, bolts whatever, and you would have a removable body.

 

Like I said, havent got this far yet, but the only issue I can see is that the positioning must be EXACT FIRST TIME - there would be no second chance. I reckon thats my plan, but be careful!

 

Cheers,

Bushrat

 

Hi Bushrat and Redguntlet

Thanks for the ideas on tender body mounting. One thought drill hole in internal cast sides before attaching to tender, countersink and glue bolt through to attach the brackets. Then solder nut to bracket and a capture piece soldered to stop nuts ever moving and use the same screws to hold body, and chassis together. Will use only 4 of the six for holding the body, sounds OK but will take it slow!! Will look at it later as I found I need to make rivets before soldering frames to the floor + all the brackets.

Had parts 108 to 111 arrive today, more to think about but determined to finish the model, only 1 stuffup sofar, glued body to frame, should have waited until painted!!!!

Happy building

Ray Z (oscaler)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

 

Up till 1am, sorting out issues in build groups. Calamity! In issue 75 instructions for building motion brackets, but no instructions for mounting!

I can only assume that these are in one of the issues containing decals, which I did not buy, so I will have to go off photos as a reference.

 

Finally had a look at the brake mounting bit, and I think there are going to be real problems with this on the models that are built as runners. The end play on the wheels would suggest to me that they will touch the wheels and cause a short.

 

The instructions and build sequence for this are truly a dogs breakfast!

 

What do you think?

 

It's a total mess! I was sorting mine out yesterday, I separated all my issues into basic bits i.e.

 

1. Boiler, cab and footplate

2. chassis including wheels and bogies

3. Conrod assemblies ( since this spans several issues and is quite involved I thought it deserved it's own category )

4. Tender

 

now the problem with this is that there are a couple of issues that have instructions that cover multiple sections especially those that only came with transfers, I'm thinking I need to hack them all up and then file it all in some sequence!

 

attached is a pic of my Loco's chimney and sandbox dome, refitted with an 8BA bolt and nut!

 

cheers

 

Markpost-5208-128228564104.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a total mess! I was sorting mine out yesterday, I separated all my issues into basic bits i.e.

 

1. Boiler, cab and footplate

2. chassis including wheels and bogies

3. Conrod assemblies ( since this spans several issues and is quite involved I thought it deserved it's own category )

4. Tender

 

now the problem with this is that there are a couple of issues that have instructions that cover multiple sections especially those that only came with transfers, I'm thinking I need to hack them all up and then file it all in some sequence!

 

attached is a pic of my Loco's chimney and sandbox dome, refitted with an 8BA bolt and nut!

 

cheers

 

Mark

 

post-5208-128228564104.jpg

 

a couple of other views

 

post-5208-128228578506.jpg

 

post-5208-128228581081.jpg

 

and the PDF parts list that I failed to upload in my last message

 

parts list.pdf

 

cheers

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:blink: URGENTLY NEEDING TO Find a supplier who does 'O' guage,numbers 4472,and lettering,LNER,cab and tender.

 

The ones "supplied" in the mag don't stick at all.

Instructions just say,and I'm assuming,when dry,cut away the "carrier film"with a craft knife and peel off!!!

WRONG!!--THE LETTERS START TO LIFT AS WELL :angry: ------ROB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rob,

There are 2 types of transfers: those with removeable varnish (such as Modelmaster's 4mm range) and those with thin, non-removeable varnish. With the former, the varnish can be removed once fully dry. The latter (as per OTW range) is thin enough to disappear umder the first layer of varnish.

 

For those who want the ultimate smooth finish with permanent varnish, the transfer can be scored in an outline round the printed design prior to dipping in water. The wet excess varnish can then be carefully eased away from the design whilst still on the backing paper, leaving the trimmed transfer ready for application. For most models it shouldn't be needed though as the varnish should be thin enough to practically disappear under a layer applied to the entire model.

 

I'd recommend a layer of varnish applied to the entire model regardless of what type of transfers are used. Transfers are by nature fairly brittle and only just held to the surface of the model by a water soluble gum. Varnish makes handling the finished model a less likely to damage it.

 

If you want a set for 4472, send me a PM.

Hope this helps.

 

Simon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Simon,

Thanks for that,I do still have the lettering and the numbers as yet(it was only the first side LNER) of the tender I started.

and the're intact,so far,so I'm going for water based glue and re-arrange them.the best of it is,the carrier film stuck better than the letters. :angry: ROB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rob,

If they are just partly lifted, try a small amount of water to soften the gum. With a little luck & patience, you may be able to get them to lay a little flatter. I wouldn't recommend adding any further adhesive as this may well argue with varnishing the model later.

 

Simon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks again Simon,

I've managed to get them down a lot better,albeit with a touch of water-based glue_well diluted)----ROB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks again Simon,

I've managed to get them down a lot better,albeit with a touch of water-based glue_well diluted)----ROB

 

 

Heres a little tip I discovered by accident many years ago when I was about 12 (another lifetime away angry.gif )

 

I was building an Airfix Spitfire, and dear old Mum was cracking the whip making me was the dishes. As I began, I realised that I had forgotton to put the tricolour patch on both sides of the tail, so.... a quick dip in the sink and on they went. Next morning, after all was nice and dry, I noticed that they sat better than all the other decals. I quickly realised that the dishwashing detergent had produced a desirable side effect!

 

Ever since, I have been using water with just a few drops of detergent, the decals slide better, it is easier to get trapped air out from under, and they stick to the painted surface tighter as well.

 

Just a few drops mind you, you dont need suds, just enough to change the surfce tension of the water, give it a try!

 

Also, as I touched on in a previous post, you can buy blank decal paper, with both a clear and a white surface. Get onto somebody with a colour laser and design up what you want with a suitable graphics program and print it out. I havent used it myself (yet), still trying to source it in Australia, but I cant see any good reason that we cant produce far superior and more accurate decals than what was supplied by using this method for a very small outlay.

 

My build has once again gone down on the priority list, since some low life nicked my wallet at the boozer the other night, and now I have to spend the next week trying to replace credit cards, pension cards, etc and cancelling anything that can be otherwise miss-used! angry.gif

 

One day I might get to finish this, otherwise it might end up in a box with the large model of "Titanic" that I started in 1979!

 

Cheers,

BUSHRAT

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

 

Up till 1am, sorting out issues in build groups. Calamity! In issue 75 instructions for building motion brackets, but no instructions for mounting!

I can only assume that these are in one of the issues containing decals, which I did not buy, so I will have to go off photos as a reference.

 

Finally had a look at the brake mounting bit, and I think there are going to be real problems with this on the models that are built as runners. The end play on the wheels would suggest to me that they will touch the wheels and cause a short.

 

The instructions and build sequence for this are truly a dogs breakfast!

 

What do you think?

 

The instructions on the motion brackets say to assemble the valve gear and rods and leave the brackets until after the lot is disassembled for painting. They say to paint the motion brackets off the model and to 'stick' them onto the painted chassis when reassembling the valve gear etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The instructions on the motion brackets say to assemble the valve gear and rods and leave the brackets until after the lot is disassembled for painting. They say to paint the motion brackets off the model and to 'stick' them onto the painted chassis when reassembling the valve gear etc.

 

Umm why would they have you do it that way, do you remember what issue these instructions are in? blink.gif

 

Has anyone had a look at the brake shoe clearances re shorting onto the wheels?

 

I am going to fully assemble the chassis and paint it, then fit the wheels and con rods/valve gear, if anyone has been down this road I would love to know what problems, if any, you had.

 

Bushrat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Umm why would they have you do it that way, do you remember what issue these instructions are in? blink.gif

 

Has anyone had a look at the brake shoe clearances re shorting onto the wheels?

 

I am going to fully assemble the chassis and paint it, then fit the wheels and con rods/valve gear, if anyone has been down this road I would love to know what problems, if any, you had.

 

Bushrat

It's issue 106. It would be more difficult to assemble the slide bars and motion with them in place, I am just reaching that point on the two that I'm building. I don't have loads of time to spare, so I'll be glad when I'm finished now. About another 14 issues to go (of course that's actually 28).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see they are at it again.....

 

 

Tiger Tank

 

 

 

 

Week-by-week build a high-quality 1:16 scale model of the most advanced German tank of World War II, the Tiger Tank. Easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions enable you to build this historic tiger. Each issue comes with high quality parts and a magazine that enables you to learn more about the fascinating history of WWII vehicles and artillery!

 

Price : 4.99

 

Number of issues : 140

 

Frequency : Weekly

 

I wonder what this will be like........ Im not going to find out !!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.