bianco55 Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 HI All, It may sound a daft question but how do you remove the wheels after all the brake system has been put into place. Do you file down the blocks to give clearance for the flanges on the wheels ? Cheers Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgauntlet Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 HI All, It may sound a daft question but how do you remove the wheels after all the brake system has been put into place. Do you file down the blocks to give clearance for the flanges on the wheels ? Cheers Keith I just took out the screws and fiddled about until the wheels could be extracted, you can carefully manouvre the brakegear as well. I got away with a little gentle bending here and there. The worst thing that I encountered in that area was the allen screw heads (for the wheels)rounding off, they are far too soft for the purpose, especially when you think of the several times they are taken off and put back again so take care with them. Don't file down the brake blocks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I just took out the screws and fiddled about until the wheels could be extracted, you can carefully manouvre the brakegear as well. I got away with a little gentle bending here and there. The worst thing that I encountered in that area was the allen screw heads (for the wheels)rounding off, they are far too soft for the purpose, especially when you think of the several times they are taken off and put back again so take care with them. Don't file down the brake blocks. It would seem that a few of us are now into the fiddly bits - the devil is in the detail as it were - I too wondered about the brake blocks, and frankly have never seen blocks that shape - ever! Back in 1965 I was a trainee engineman in NSW (Aus) and worked on and cleaned many types of steam loco's from small 19 class up to the 38 class pacifics. Never saw a brake block that had a curve to it as these do - maybe I will have ANOTHER look at my Scotsman dvd's on freeze frame again, as I am beginning to wonder if this is maybe another mistake...................? Without that curve (or concavity, or whatever you call it) wheel removal should be fairly straightforward. If yo do have the misfortune to strip a screw head, cutting a slot in the top will allow using an ordinary screwdriver to tighten it - looks a bit duff but it works, I have had this happen to one so far and I didnt even tighten it up! Bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bianco55 Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 It would seem that a few of us are now into the fiddly bits - the devil is in the detail as it were - I too wondered about the brake blocks, and frankly have never seen blocks that shape - ever! Back in 1965 I was a trainee engineman in NSW (Aus) and worked on and cleaned many types of steam loco's from small 19 class up to the 38 class pacifics. Never saw a brake block that had a curve to it as these do - maybe I will have ANOTHER look at my Scotsman dvd's on freeze frame again, as I am beginning to wonder if this is maybe another mistake...................? Without that curve (or concavity, or whatever you call it) wheel removal should be fairly straightforward. If yo do have the misfortune to strip a screw head, cutting a slot in the top will allow using an ordinary screwdriver to tighten it - looks a bit duff but it works, I have had this happen to one so far and I didnt even tighten it up! Bushrat Thanks for the info , As regards on con rods soldering etc I have had success using Carrs Yellow Flux and 145' solder How do you post pics on here? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Thanks for the info , As regards on con rods soldering etc I have had success using Carrs Yellow Flux and 145' solder How do you post pics on here? At the bottom is a browse box, available when you hit the add reply button, select the file/s you want to post, then click the "attach this file" box there is a 10 mb size limit, so if it says its too big, just reduce the size of the photo in another program and re-try. Bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscaler Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Hi 30801 Nice work on the oil pipes, mine ain't that good but passable.. My atomiser snapped in half while trying to bend the pipes, so got some more on the way and will epoxy the pipes in after bending, it is the worst bit sofar! Still workingout how to attach tender body to chassis, so can paint then assemble, otherwise all sub assemblies waiting to be painted! Just hope it all fits together. Ray Z No. Mine are superglued, apart from the atomisers which are soldered at the expense of losing some of the cast detail to blobs of solder, but at least they're firmly attached. It was in real danger of ending up in the bin before I'd finished... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 OK, at the risk of opening a can of worms, here goes............... I have been looking at my various flying scotsman dvd's, and also a few others that show A2/3 locomotives. It's pretty hard to see the brake gear for very long, but I am pretty sure that the brake shoes on the prototype did not have an angled shoe - they look to have a surface parralell to that of the tyre of the driving wheels. I have been looking for a clear frame so I can get a screen shot and post it, but most are taken with the loco at speed. If I am right about this, it could be yet another innacuracy, so I am keen to solve it before I fit these bits. It would seem to make sense that the shoes are not angled as they are in the kit, at least to me. This of course would also mean that if this needs to be corrected, then we have the bonus of more clearance to get the wheels on and off! That would be a good thing, wouldnt it? Does anybody know for sure about this? Interested in your opinions. Bushrat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bianco55 Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 Trying to upload pic Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bianco55 Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 OK, at the risk of opening a can of worms, here goes............... I have been looking at my various flying scotsman dvd's, and also a few others that show A2/3 locomotives. It's pretty hard to see the brake gear for very long, but I am pretty sure that the brake shoes on the prototype did not have an angled shoe - they look to have a surface parralell to that of the tyre of the driving wheels. I have been looking for a clear frame so I can get a screen shot and post it, but most are taken with the loco at speed. If I am right about this, it could be yet another innacuracy, so I am keen to solve it before I fit these bits. It would seem to make sense that the shoes are not angled as they are in the kit, at least to me. This of course would also mean that if this needs to be corrected, then we have the bonus of more clearance to get the wheels on and off! That would be a good thing, wouldnt it? Does anybody know for sure about this? Interested in your opinions. Bushrat. Hi Bushrat, Uploaded Scot picture from a dvd I know its not the original but I don't think the brake blocks would have changed, Looks like they are the contour of the wheel, perhaps for better performance, Cheers Keith. PS Ive just done the brakes a bit fiddely but they do look good, and it is a pain putting the wheels on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bianco55 Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 Hi Bushrat, Uploaded Scot picture from a dvd I know its not the original but I don't think the brake blocks would have changed, Looks like they are the contour of the wheel, perhaps for better performance, Cheers Keith. PS Ive just done the brakes a bit fiddely but they do look good, and it is a pain putting the wheels on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgauntlet Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 The brake blocks look ok to me. Still plodding on with the pipes which are much easier to bend after annealing. My current method is to anneal, glue in place with Araldite, leave to set overnight and then bend into place, it's working better, in fact much better but it's still tedious, enough to put me off. I'll forget though and maybe try a B1, a V1/3 tank, a J72 and a J27. I hope I live long enough. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 Thats the one I was trying to grab - you got it! If you look at the shoes in that photo, they conform to the shape of the tyre - the ones that I got are quite different and have a shoe that does not conform to the wheel. I will try and take a good photo and post it this week. Bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bianco55 Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 Thats the one I was trying to grab - you got it! If you look at the shoes in that photo, they conform to the shape of the tyre - the ones that I got are quite different and have a shoe that does not conform to the wheel. I will try and take a good photo and post it this week. Bushrat Just a couple of pics now I'm getting the hang of uploading Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 So what does one do about the thickness of the brake shoe assembly? I went to start fitting mine up last night and found that two sets of drivers actually are able to touch the assembly due to thier side play. The set that has the washers misses by a hair (literally), so the question that begs answering is how do we stop them shorting out, or being knocked off by the wheels? This would have to occur on even the slightest curve. The only option I can see is to thin the assembly at the back. What did you guys that built operating examples do to overcome this? Bushrat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Here's a bit of a hint if anyone is still struggling to join the con rods. I dont have a 12BA tap, and cant buy one locally, I tried to cut a thread using one of the 12BA screws from the wheels, but unfortunately, the stainless steel was too hard for the brass. Didnt expect that one to work, but it was worth a try................... So heres what I did, and it worked a treat! First, rather than tap the hole, I enlarged it slightly so the screw just slipped in snugly, then I fluxed the back of the screw (which is nickel silver) and put a generous daub of solder on it. The nickel silver in this part takes solder very well. I then cut off the screw excess, as per the instructions, filed it down to within a couple of milimetres, turned it over with the screw head face down on a vise, and gave it a smart gentle tap with a small hitting tool! I did this on both con rods, it was easy, seems quite strong, and when assembled the chassis moves smoothly with no hint of binding. Best of all, NO SUPERGLUE!! Hope this helps somebody, Bushrat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgauntlet Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 I have finished those horrible lubricating pipes, thank god. In case anyone is interested, while miniature pipework is a chore to me (as it was with the real thing) I did find a way that suited me. I carefully soldered the number of pipes together at a couple of points so that the solder wasn't visible e.g. three pipes for a gravity lubricator. When annealed the pipes were much easier to bend and the ends seperated to fit in the lubricators. This process speeded up my work no end saving me from the men in white coats. I will mow reassemble the rods and motion, the problems I've had to solve here are several cast bolts (return crank pins for one instance) not actually being the size that they are supposed to be (12BA). They were slack in the holes but a 12BA screw (not one from Hachette) fitted perfectly, has anyone else found this, not difficult to put right but annoying. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted October 29, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 29, 2010 I will mow reassemble the rods and motion, the problems I've had to solve here are several cast bolts (return crank pins for one instance) not actually being the size that they are supposed to be (12BA). I found that, but assumed it was a combination of my cheapo drill bits & cheapo taps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgauntlet Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 12 BA screws fitted perfectly, but I too am resorting to cheapo taps and cheapo drills. I got 150 from 0.04mm to 3.2mm from ebay less of course the 1.7mm bit; why is that one so scarce I wonder, it seems to be popular enough? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bianco55 Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 12 BA screws fitted perfectly, but I too am resorting to cheapo taps and cheapo drills. I got 150 from 0.04mm to 3.2mm from ebay less of course the 1.7mm bit; why is that one so scarce I wonder, it seems to be popular enough? Hello Redgauntlet I think a No 51 drill is the same as a 1.7 mm twist drill, a 1/16 isn't far out either Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgauntlet Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Thanks for that and thank God I'm getting near the end. Two years and then some is just too long, still those blooming pipes are finished. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bianco55 Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Thanks for that and thank God I'm getting near the end. Two years and then some is just too long, still those blooming pipes are finished. Any Chance of some pics. I did start building at the begining but decided to wait until I had all the parts, gradualy getting there. Recieved a Mashima 1833 motor & gearbox today so now I can put main conrods on & motories it. Then take motor of & carry on with running gear. It may cost a lot of money but looking @ other peoples efforts it is a wonderful model when finished. Something to leave the grandson. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgauntlet Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 The only reason I haven't posted any pics yet is because my son has my camera. I will do so as soon as I get it back. The main problem I have is that I'm building two of these. My eldest son bought one thinking that he could glue it together and run it in the garden, I enlightened him on that and ended up with the job of putting it together, my son then turned up with another for me, hence my time has been spent on them both. I would build another one (not and A1 or A3) but two, I'm not so sure. The mess in keeping the parts in order and the shear space required would put me off. It won't be long now though, I am trying to keep the quality of both models as near the same as possible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted November 10, 2010 Author Share Posted November 10, 2010 Hi All,once again I sit here and wonder if there is ANYONE out there,surely we must have "PIC's"somewhere???????? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bianco55 Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Hi All,once again I sit here and wonder if there is ANYONE out there,surely we must have "PIC's"somewhere???????? Hello Blue Peter I know what you mean all seems very quiet . I'm working on the valve gear at the mo, Drilling out those small parts hoping not to break anything, I'm going to post some pics but they will only be the same as all the other Models now. I expect most people have finished now Cheers All Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Boot Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Hello Blue Peter I know what you mean all seems very quiet . I'm working on the valve gear at the mo, Drilling out those small parts hoping not to break anything, I'm going to post some pics but they will only be the same as all the other Models now. I expect most people have finished now Cheers All Keith Hi Guys, I'm about to start work again on mine again. Been busy working on daughters DIY project for 6 weeks! My next job will also be the valve gear etc - even went upto NRM at York on club trip to photograph FS's valve gear - it wasn't there! Somebody had moved it to an engineering company for assembly work - and didn't even tell me first! So it's back to the shed and start drilling out parts like Keith above. Will try and remember to take some pictures as work progresses. Regards, P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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