Spokane Portland and Seattle Railway

[alcoRS1]

great progress, well done.

 

what have you used for the 'inset track' on the quayside?

[is it putty, or plaster, or what?]

 

It is joint compound, I scrape a grove along the inside of the rail and flanges. after it has dried and painted I then dig them out, switches are the biggest pain to do, but it end up looking good.

 

I have one of those on my Shoebox layout - she is called "River Lady" How about "Harbor Queen"? "Lady Spokane"? "River Queen"?

Or just assign her a number "Spokane #7"

 

I like the "River Queen", that sounds good, One of my river barges in the mail will be called "Fall Leaf".

[john.2shacks]

Hi I am a new member and a fellow Alco RS 1 fan. I have just added the new tsunarmi alco 539 decoder to my much modified RS1.I think BN only run 2 ex Northern Pacific loco so this is not a true prototype but having seen chopped short hood prototypes I had to have one for my layout.Follow link to video, I have also fitted another tsunarmi to an RS32. Hope these are of interest.

 

 

 

2shacksrr

[alcoRS1]

Hi I am a new member and a fellow Alco RS 1 fan. I have just added the new tsunarmi alco 539 decoder to my much modified RS1.I think BN only run 2 ex Northern Pacific loco so this is not a true prototype but having seen chopped short hood prototypes I had to have one for my layout.Follow link to video, I have also fitted another tsunarmi to an RS32. Hope these are of interest.

 

 

 

2shacksrr

 

welcome

 

those sound awesome, as for the BN RS-1, they would not of been chop noses, NP never chopped those noses, and from what I could tell BN ditched the NP RS-1 in1972. I know BN ditched all the SP&S loco's in 1970. The reason being was the Alco RS-1 was not built to consist, and would require some major refit to enable this. but I have seen some chop noses, they were called RS-1m. Still I wished BN kept those RS-1's, would be nice to see an alco RS-1 working the loco yard.

 

here

RS-1m

RS-1m

 

BTW great looking layout.

[alcoRS1]

I did some web digging around and found the 2 BN RS-1's these were only kept for 2 years after the merge. never rebuilt or repainted but here is some pictures with the renumber

BN RS-1 952

BN RS-1 953

[F-UnitMad]

It is joint compound, I scrape a grove along the inside of the rail and flanges. after it has dried and painted I then dig them out, switches are the biggest pain to do, but it ends up look good.

It certainly does!! I didn't realise you had such a large area of inset track. To do the points (sorry, switches!) as well is really something!

[alcoRS1]

It certainly does!! I didn't realise you had such a large area of inset track. To do the points (sorry, switches!) as well is really something!

 

It is the first time I have ever used a filler on the tracks, and happens to to be any area a good few square feet. This week I am working on the back drops, I am hoping to get this section completed this month, but depends on shipping of my other 2 boats. My dad likes it, so must be ok, he just about to start his US layout, but he is located in Macclesfield, Cheshire, a long way to go if I want to help.

[alcoRS1]

for my birthday, I will be getting this

 

 

an Alco HH660 with QSI sound.

 

I thought about making its own layout but I could modify a section of my current to accommodate this a Coca Cola Plant taking corn syrup.

 

here is the independent layout this is 16" by 84"

 

 

won't it look good all weathered like this, Atlas will be releasing this end of April, this year.

 

 

I would like to use the RE601, but it might be 2 new for the layout, but a Southern Pacific will fit in fine. I love these old ALco switchers.

[alcoRS1]

been playing around with back drops, think it looks a little to large.

 

I need to take pictures in the day, when the lighting is better

[alcoRS1]

I have been wanting to attach some pictures of the progress, but at the moment I am getting "The Server returned an error during upload".

 

I decided to add new warehouses, when RMweb went down, I had no excuse to sit in front of the computers so I ended up making these link to picture

[alcoRS1]

Good to see things are back to normal on RMweb. I going to fix the lighting in the garage today so the photos will no longer looks so grainy.

 

[alcoRS1]

better camera, more lighting, this should improve the quality of the picture, but not of the layout, that is all up to me, and that may take some time, as I am new to doing the scenic part of modeling (I have been modeling HO since october 2007, so give a break, lots of trial and lots of error).

 

you can see at the end of the dock, I am experimenting with water, after I have worked out what I really want to do, I will place plasticard over it all and then create on top of that.

 

[thnksno]

Good work on the lighting and photos!

 

Wondering if you could show more about the joint compound and the turnouts? Did you use 'setting type' or 'air-dry' joint compound?

 

I'm in rearrange mode and ditching a roundhouse for a narrower/leaner engine shed with concrete... I'm thinking 'setting type' compound would be best as it chemically cures rather than try to airdry a slab thick enough to cover the tops of code 83 rail.

 

The flangeways in regular track seem easy enough but the turnouts kind of scare me as I'd hate to have it frozen into position by the joint compound... Did you protect them somehow or just slop over them and then work with the hardened compound afterward?

[alcoRS1]

Good work on the lighting and photos!

 

Wondering if you could show more about the joint compound and the turnouts? Did you use 'setting type' or 'air-dry' joint compound?

 

I'm in rearrange mode and ditching a roundhouse for a narrower/leaner engine shed with concrete... I'm thinking 'setting type' compound would be best as it chemically cures rather than try to airdry a slab thick enough to cover the tops of code 83 rail.

 

The flangeways in regular track seem easy enough but the turnouts kind of scare me as I'd hate to have it frozen into position by the joint compound... Did you protect them somehow or just slop over them and then work with the hardened compound afterward?

 

 

this is how i did it

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=MonsterRailroad#p/u/74/uPXZR9qm55A

 

I used a joint compound to begin with, but it said no shrink, but it shrunk. after that I used woodland scenic smooth it, it is cheap and easy to work with.

 

I covered the turnouts, in the compound, then dug them out while still wet, while it was drying I would every 5 - 6 hours I would move them around. Once it has dried I then took a small screw driver and dug them out so the would move more freely. I had done the same with a turnout I once ballasted to much.

 

There are other techniques some people put some plasticard in the middle of the turnout rails and do not compound any of turn outs. Andy has the best way I have seen with his KeyHaven layout, but I had not discovered this until weeks after I had done mine. here is his layout Andy Y's Keyhaven

 

If you place plasticard in the middle you could achieve the same as I have, his looks much better.

[thnksno]

lol! I didn't even have to click the youtube link, I know exactly who that is... I put a buck into his contest a few weeks back. I actually went back last night and looked at Al's work with the smooth it, then recalled seeing this thread last week where you used joint compound... Unfortunately Al doesn't show the points covered, actually I think in his vid, he goes all the way up to them and ballasts the rest?

 

Thanks, I'll look over Andy Y's stuff

[alcoRS1]

lol! I didn't even have to click the youtube link, I know exactly who that is... I put a buck into his contest a few weeks back. I actually went back last night and looked at Al's work with the smooth it, then recalled seeing this thread last week where you used joint compound... Unfortunately Al doesn't show the points covered, actually I think in his vid, he goes all the way up to them and ballasts the rest?

 

Thanks, I'll look over Andy Y's stuff

 

I used the same technique to do the points/switches.

 

Big Al Mayo, is a real character, good people.

[alcoRS1]

well started to with weathering my locos, don't judge to hash, it first attempts. Lots to learn, and mistakes will happen.

 

[alcoRS1]

some more pictures.

[thnksno]

Looks good!

 

I'm actually going to try some 'real weathering' on a couple cars now that the sun is coming out... Oh I'll still need powders and paint, but plan on leaving a few cars exposed to outdoor elements a few months to tone them down and pick up natural run-off marks. No research has gone into this experiment, but thinking they'll sun fade better than loading them up with coat after coat of dull coat, which IMO also tones down detail. Thinking of just screwing the plastic bodies to a board via the bolster sockets then leave them out on the south-side of the house. Not the most efficient way to weather but I have a few Athearn BB cars to experiment with, so why not?

[alcoRS1]

Looks good!

 

I'm actually going to try some 'real weathering' on a couple cars now that the sun is coming out... Oh I'll still need powders and paint, but plan on leaving a few cars exposed to outdoor elements a few months to tone them down and pick up natural run-off marks. No research has gone into this experiment, but thinking they'll sun fade better than loading them up with coat after coat of dull coat, which IMO also tones down detail. Thinking of just screwing the plastic bodies to a board via the bolster sockets then leave them out on the south-side of the house. Not the most efficient way to weather but I have a few Athearn BB cars to experiment with, so why not?

 

The sun might get to hot and warp them, or parts on them, but I am interested in how it turns out. Another way to get the same effect is to mix 2 parts dullcoat, 1 part flat(matt) white and a 1 part flat brown. then airbrush from bottom up leaving, putting more weathering on the bottom.

 

another method I have one for rolling stock (did this yesterday), to get a base on them, was to create an acrylic wash, brown and black, diluted, then just dip the whole car in, pull it out (let the water drain off), then set it a side to dry). I will post a pic later today on the effect. now I can add detail weathering like rust spots and scares.

[alcoRS1]

Been working on my Kato/Atlas NP alco RS-11, it has gone from this

 

to this

 

I used this picture for reference

NP alco RS-11 #909

[alcoRS1]

todo list to finish first module

 

Wire up track.

Make external lamps for building, install, and wire

finish back drops.

secure building to the layout.

finish dock yard entrance building.

finish loading ramp.

finish fish depot.

build dock for fishing boat,

finish fishing boats,

make ladder for fishing boat,

build small crane for fishing boats.

add building wires

drains

create front to module.

plastic card water area,

add wooden pylons paint dock water green,

build river.

create water,

secure bridge

build road.

install power lines.

add vegetation.

add fuel storage tanks, pipes and pump.

 

This should keep me busy

 

for the next module glue last tracks, weather them.

 

install DCC panel and front.

install switch motors

fix backdrop,

paint and detail buildings,

build road and side walks,

add fence,

ballast

add vegetation.

[alcoRS1]

Slowly working on the layout,

 

here is some more shots

attempting to do backdrop, let me know what you think, the paint is still wet so it looks a little glossy.

 

 

The new Barge.

 

[alcoRS1]

With my wife just about to have a baby and my in laws visiting, plus rearranging the junk in the Garage, I not done much, but today I snapped some photos which I added to the back drop.

 

 

 

I also made the telegraph poles, will add transformers tomorrow, and wire once I get the buildings secure.

[alcoRS1]

I have ordered 3 brass locos, also are Alco's RS-1, RS-2, and an RS-3 all will be done as SP&S, this project will take about 6 months to compete, due to the cost of replacing wheels, gears, motors and adding sound. I will create a new thread, documenting start to finish.

[alcoRS1]

Between the 2010 Challenge, a new baby and the brass locos I have not done much on this layout.

 

but here is some more of the locos that will be on the layout, My SP&S RS-1 fleet is now 4 locos, 2 brass and 2 Atlas. I have the full roster of RS-2 and my first SP&S RS-3 (brass).

 

as you can see the brass locos (new ones) have no wheels, gears and motor, I have an order for the RS-1 with NWSL for a powered truck, then I will need to later do the same for the RS-2 and RS-3. These will all have SoundTraxx installed with the biggest speaker I can fit in.