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Jamiel

Ellerby - 4mm, buildings, rolling stock, scratch & kit building.

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Posted (edited)

Painting, almost all air brush, plus a little retouching by hand.
 

The transfers work well as fine roof ribs, but they are damaged easily and I had to use a bit of masking tape which not surprisingly pulled off bits. If I use this techniques again I will add the transfers and then airbrush varnish on before the undercoat.
 

A passes with the airbrush roof greys, then the sides in green, and then where making had lifted some tidying.
 

Class120_128.jpg

 

Class120_129.jpg

 

Class120_130.jpg

 

The underframe has had undercoat, the dark grey roof dirt then a very thin pass of black. It will need some hand retouching. The bogies were painted by hand with the grey roof first then airbrushed with the black at the same time.
 

Class120_131.jpg

 

Class120_132.jpg

 

Class120_133.jpg

 

Daily Mirror for Sarah to get racing tips, not my choice of paper, but then still more honest than most tabloids, and even broadsheets these days.

More soon.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Posted (edited)

While the DMU's paint has a good dry, I have been sketching out a building with a row of shops for the high street. This uses the rest of the Kibri Corner building as well as some resin casts of one section of it to expand the building.

I am not sure about if I should double the corner overhang bays. I am definitely not using the ‘wizard’s hat’ on top of it/them, even if Kier Hardy managed to make it work on Wibdenshaw.
 

Shop02.jpg



Lots of marking for the rest of the week I suspect, that time of year at uni.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Posted (edited)

I know I am supposed to be finishing the Class 120 DMU, but I have ordered a strip of LEDs to light the interior and I want to get those and the front lights in position before I do any more work on that.
 

So I am finishing off the Black 5.
 

So I am finishing off the LMS Inspection saloon.
 

OK, I have given in and jumped into a new project, because I drew up the plans. I have started the front of an arcade of shop using the rest of the Kirbi Cornerhouse kit I have and the casts I have made of the upper floor windows.

 

I didn’t like the guitar shaped top to the roof detail, it just didn’t feel English enough, so I started by reshaping that detail.

 

Arcade_01.jpg

 

Arcade_02.jpg

 

Arcade_03.jpg


I have sanded, cuts and generally tidied off the imperfections, bubble lumps and odd bits from the casts. Since the casts and the original parts have different depths, I have made a thin ply frame for the front of the building with gaps cut through to allow the glazing to be added.

This has a thin bit of wood glued across the front to act as a base for the cats and originals. It is an old firework rocket stick, always good to grab a few of those the morning after bonfire night, either for modelling gardening. This also strengthens the wood backing.

The building has also grow in length by a couple more cast sections as well.

 

Arcade_04.jpg

 

Arcade_05.jpg



The next thing will be to glue in place the various casts etc. with the right amount of packing behind them to make the front even. One of my casts is a bit thick, so I think I will tidy a couple of the half, or broken cats and use those and have the thick one around the edge.

I also discovered the name for a bay window half way up the side of a building, it is an ‘oriel’, I have decided to have just one on the right side that covers two floor as on the original kit.

Hopefully there will be more soon on this and the other builds, and maybe even some being finished.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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The original and cast sections for the 2nd and 3rd floor fronts have been glued in place and filler put into the joins. Waiting for that to really dry before sanding and cutting the brick texture back in.

I will overlay the stone detail with Evergreen strip to hide the joins. The two vertical joins above the ground floor supports will be hidden by drain pipes, so I only have to really make 4 of the joins look seamless. I will also add my usual circuit boxes and wiring which will help some of the joins.

Arcade_06.jpg

 

I did some research and found nothing on how to glue resin to wood, except a bit on a jewellery forum, which I didn’t think was applicable.

I used the usual Evostick solvent free for all the resin and plastic to wood. I am still convinced this is rubber glue marketed at a higher price, but since it works, I am happy to continue using it.

Jamie

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Hi Jamie.

I would have gone with something from the epoxy stable myself.

Regards Lez.Z. 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, lezz01 said:

Hi Jamie.

I would have gone with something from the epoxy stable myself.

Regards Lez.Z. 

Thanks Lez.Z

I did consider epoxy resin/glue, but since I am mostly sticking to wood I decided to go with the Evostick Solvent Free as I have had had such good results with it with plastic to wood.

For plastic to resin or resin to resin I think epoxy would be a much better option. I haven’t used epoxy with wood, how well does it work? I did read hat you have to varnish the wood before using that.

I also read that superglue/cyano works well with resin.

 

As it is the Evostick Solvent Free has made a good bond for the resin to wood and I have filled the joins between the resin to resin and the resin to plastic with Humbrol plastic filler which is working OK.

I have added details with a mixture of cyano/superglue and Mek, the latter seems to work fine for adding plastic pieces.

Always to good to hear how people have worked with different materials and solvents, one of the real strengths of the forum is the shared knowledge.

Jamie

Edited by Jamiel
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Posted (edited)

Continuing on the shops that I am now calling the Arcade, developed from the Kibri kit, but taking reference from some shops on Kirkgate in Leeds, just next to the old marked building.
 

Sanding down and more filling on the joins between the sections, and now working their way around the end. The near side has the oriel (high bay window), the far will just have flat windows in a matching angled recess. Also starting to add in the shaping for the shop window areas in wood.

Arcade_07.jpg

 

Close ups of the edge detail I have been adding. You can see the eve detail made up from various plastic strip and plasticard.

Interestingly the bricks on the HO Kibri kit are larger than the OO gauge ones from the brick sheet (Slaters I think). I am not worrying about this as I think it gets lost in the areas of detail over the bricks.

Arcade_08.jpg

 

Arcade_09.jpg



Getting near to the end of my marking at uni’ which is good.

Edited by Jamiel
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It's looking very very nice Jamie.

Regards Lez.Z.

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Yes looks good and I think I know the buildings your refering to. 

I agree the wizards hat is not very english looking. How about a simple cone on that turret or a small dome in terracotta.

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Thanks Rovex

I am thinking of just adding a floor and an access door in the roof, I might have to add a little height to the outer wall, or perhaps some railings.

If that looks wrong though, the idea of a cone is really good.

Jamie

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Posted (edited)

I think that building is a lot more ornate than the one I am building, but the different architectural elements are on it.

This is more in keeping with what I am thinking of at the moment:

https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-exterior-detail-of-an-oriel-window-at-hartwell-house-a-historic-house-94453562.html

 

I will see how it develops when I get on to adding the roof elements, I’m not counting out other ideas.

Unfortunately I am sat at work with my screen full of dissertations that are taking priority at the moment.

EDIT:
I forgot to say that the roof details really remind me of the wonderful building you posted in the City Centre Buildings thread. The  'Empire Palace' is my favourite kit bashed building I have ever seen.

empire2.jpg

 

Edited by Jamiel
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Just coming back to this, something like the top of this might work and be simpler to do

 

https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/2741789

 

I'd also suggest plenty of dormer windows and ornate chimneys to break up the roof, possibly even add some etched brass railing to the ridge (its a shame that the smaller (shorter) type of cast/wrought iron railing isn't freely available)  but thats just me :D

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Marking finally finished, external marking all done bar the report. Exam boards still to go, but no more slogging through essays and videos. Some wonderful work in there from the students though which is really uplifting.

 

Anyway, back to the arcade. I don’t know what the decorative stone pieces at the side of many old chimneys are called, but I have made ones for the arcade chimneys, and will also add smaller ones beside the bit of the frontage that rises up.

 

Hardwood dowel cut to size and supported by balsa.  

Arcade_10.jpg

 

Arcade_11.jpg

 

Edge pieces cut from plasticard after drilling out the round shape.

 

Arcade_12.jpg

 

I have finally taken on board Rovex’s advice after walking and taking some photographs in Ealing this week, and am trying a small dome on the oriel. This is it in progress, all the basic parts are from a small drink bottle, with thin plasticard to cover where I have split the edges to open it out from going straight up, and then lots of filler.

 

Arcade_13.jpg

 

Here it is sat roughly in position. The finial is also from the drinks bottle inside the top. Thoughts?

 

Arcade_14.jpg

 

Here are some photos of the stone details and brick detail added to the chimneys. They are not finished as I want to add more horizontal details. More windows have been added on the left since the last photos as well.

 

Arcade_15.jpg

 

Arcade_16.jpg

 

Arcade_17.jpg

 

Arcade_18.jpg

 

Thanks for all the comments and ticks.

 

Jamie

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I love the chimney stack details Jamie. I have to say that I'm not sold on the dome though. Have you thought about using a doorknob you can get just about any shape you can think of in just about any material, well maybe not cheese but you know what I mean. It might make a better starting point. 

Regards Lez.

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1 hour ago, lezz01 said:

I love the chimney stack details Jamie. I have to say that I'm not sold on the dome though. Have you thought about using a doorknob you can get just about any shape you can think of in just about any material, well maybe not cheese but you know what I mean. It might make a better starting point. 

Regards Lez.

 

Good idea. Looking at the photos of the bottle top I don't think it is working either. A door knob is a great suggestion, B&Q visit this weekend I suspect.

Jamie

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If you have a photo that would be good mate. I was just watching the news and they had a lovely shot of the one on the old Bailey and I thought I know exactly how to build that in 4 mm. I have a really neat way to do lead ridges using 1 mm micro rod and ciggy papers that I'm happy to share. 

Regards Lez.   

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Hi Lez
 

I had another look at Vicar Lane in Leeds on Google maps and found exactly the kind of lead (I presume) dome I would like.

VicarLane01.jpg


I would put a much more innocuous finial on top though.

I presume you make a frame and then use paper to overlay that. I wonder if 0.1mm plasticard might work the same way?

If you could share your method that would be fantastic.

Jamie

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2 minutes ago, calvin Streeting said:

I would 3d print it :)

 

Very good solution, but it does require access to a 3D printer and knowledge of how to use one. Perhaps I should get a quote, or even ask around in the engineering department at the university where I work.

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I would use half a doorknob, preferably plastic that MEK or butanol reacts with, and then use micro rod to simulate the ridges. Then cut a piece of fag paper the shape of the lead panel and fix it first with a few dabs of solvent and once its in the right place you flood it with solvent and gently tamp it into place around the micro rod. If you overlap the fag paper, once the solvent has evaporated and its all dried you gently lift the edge of the overlap and using dilute PVA on a brush run it along the edge of the overlap so that it flows into the join like you do with solvent. Let it dry overnight. Then you can paint it. I use humbrol metal coat starting with 4 parts polished steel to which I add 1 part gunmetal and 2 parts polished aluminum. Once it's all dry gently rub with a soft tissue or your finger and it will start to shine. Don't go mad or it will be too shiny. If you want to make it more weathered use bog standard humbrol aluminum instead of metalcoat. The polished steel is about the right colour but it's a total pig to use and does NOT like to be over painted as the second stroke takes it all back off again so I add gunmetal and aluminum to make it more user friendly and gunmetal works best but makes it too dark so I use aluminum to lighten it back up again. If you add standard gunmetal it works fine but you can't get such a good shine on it. Try it out on a goods yard office roof first and it will be a good practice piece just to get the hang of it then you will see how much you can work it. I would use king size BLUE fag papers as they are nice and thin but robust enough to take the punishment. The white ones are far too thin and the red and green ones are a little on the thick side and are harder to work. You need to use enough solvent so that the paper is almost completely transparent. It will also work with dilute PVA but it has to be around 80/20 water/PVA and it takes longer to soak into the paper.

Regards Lez.       

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Try searching ebay for half balls or half spheres. You might be able get something in wood or plastic about the right diameter.

I've used fine electrical cabling for the lead strips. The kind used for siring the layout. Bent to the shape of the curve and superglued to the dome. I haven't tried to replicate the individual overlapping lead pieces but the tag paper idea sounds clever.

 

Love the chimneys. Really good work. I think people tend to forget that unless the rooms above shops were store rooms then most rooms would have had a coal fire and therefore a separate flue and you soon end up with a sizeable chimney or chimneys.

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I will order some wood and also polystyrene balls from Ebay for the oriel roof, they are only a couple of pounds so I can try both options.

I have been working on the ground floor and the edges of the windows mostly. I am wary of making these too decorative, as I suspect the interior/window detail will make this floor work.

I have also done a little more on the chimneys but I haven’t done the base of them where they come out at the top of the ground floor, gain I am being careful of not overdoing things, but feel a little more detail is needed.

Arcade_19.jpg

 

I think side is too thick on the left door and could be taken back a bit.

Arcade_20.jpg

 

An overall view as it is.

Arcade_21.jpg

 

I thought it might be interesting to show the inside, how all the different ways of making the frontage all are held together.

Arcade_22.jpg



More soon.

Jamie

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