West Kirby Town: narrow gauge is coming to town.

[Dmudriver]

Great Progress my friend. I used very thin mdf for the top of my platform? I get them in a4 sizes from my wife who gets them from work. They pack paper with them and then get thrown away. If you want any let me know

 

Paul R

 

Thanks for the offer, Paul. I'll let you know.

 

This all started because I have bought some resin platform sides. They are all straight, but can be curved by soaking in hot water and then in cold to keep the shape, apparently - because I've not tried it yet! So the cardboard thing started out as a way of getting the curves onto a master sheet so that I knew what shape to mould the platform edges to. Then I looked at bracing them at the correct distance apart; then at how to cut the platform surface and, lo and behold, I end up with a cardboard platform!!! So I then had to do the concourse because it looks odd without it!!!

 

For the "proper" platform surface I am going to need some very thin plastic card (preferably paved) as, although there is a ridge in the platform side mouldings behind the edging paving, it's not very deep. So really I am letting that float about in my brain while I get on with other things. I do find that I get better ideas that way rather than trying to concentrate on one problem at a time. Maybe it's an age-thing!!

 

I am aware of the danger of the temporary platform becoming a permanent fixture, however!!

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Hi all

 

It's been a while since I updated! Things have been ongoing, but not enough to photograph yet. I've mainly been working on my 3-car 108 DMU. I've fitted a Loksound v3.5 XL chip to it but I want to put a speaker in the second power car. However, because of the design and way it was built, getting inside the car has proved "challenging", shall we say? The wiring for the lights had been put through the fittings on the underside of the chassis but I'm changing it to go up inside the roof of the 2 power cars - hence the second need to get inside. Even after reducing output via the appropriate CV the lights are still a bit bright so I'll add a couple more resistors and see if that helps. The wiring for the second speaker and the lights will go via 2- and 3-pin connectors between the cars: they will go along the chassis of the centre car, blu-tacked up to be invisible.

 

I've been running the unit on my layout and on the Club's DCC layout and I've decided to change the Easybuild gears for an ABC gearbox as the running is not very free or quiet. I'm aiming to pick them up at Telford.

 

I've had a couple of issues with the Kadee couplings being too tight on reverse curves (causing derailments) but I've eased them out and it's fine now. It's my own fault, trying to get realistic close coupling!!

 

I've sprayed the platform surfaces black - the side walls are still to be done. As I've had time and good weather today, I've progressed with the extension into the garden. The forecast for Thursday is not too bad and a pal is coming to help me, so I may have some tangible progress to photograph and share. More soon.

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

I've made some progress outside!!! As I said in my last post, my pal came round yesterday and we got the support for the layout done: it was definitely a 2 person job!! So the main support is in and I've added some blocks for further support. Here is a photo of it:

 

 

The supporting legs are 3" square and are left from the previous layout. The board supports are 3"x2". The baseboard is 15" wide and I found that 2" width of support wasn't really enough, so I have added the extra blocks to make it 4" wide. The boards sit pretty well already and they are not screwed down yet! The boards themselves are the same as inside the shed - 12mm ply. I am sure they will be strong enough to support the back and roof when I put them on: if not, further strengthening is not too difficult. Here are 2 pics of the boards laid on the frame: first, looking away from the shed:

 

 

Seond, looking back towards the shed:

 

 

I'd had a bit of a problem with the rain starting and then stopping, so it was put tools, boards, etc back in the shed, into the house, then out again when the rain stopped. This went on for 3 or 4 times until the rain started in earnest. I did put a couple of lengths of track down - just to get the feel of things!! This is a pic of it: you can see the rain drops on the near board!! This rain finally stopped play, so I came and sat in front of the computer watching the happenings on Transfer Deadline Day!!! (Which is what I'd done during rain breaks before!!)

 

 

The hole in the shed wall will need enlarging in height - I've only done it like this for the moment to fit the board and to have a small hole to keep the rain out of (not very good English, but I hope you understand what I mean!) The white tape is the sticky side of some black waterproof tape I cover the hole with.

 

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to screw the boards down and start on the covers. More soon.

 

 

Rod

 

Edit: typo corrected!!

Edited August 31, 2012 by Dmudriver

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

Had a good day today and got quite a lot done. I've fixed the baseboards down for the outside extension and fitted the rear wall. This photo shows how far I've got:

 

 

And a view from the other direction:

 

 

The board look shiny because I've put a coat of exterior varnish on it: the plywood is supposed to be external, but the quality is not as good as the original (that's the lighter coloured bit outside the shed). It's due to rain tonight, so I thought I'd make sure it didn't get too wet.

 

The wall at the back of the layout is tongue and groove board that was the cladding for the old shed. That shed didn't let any water in so I figured it should work for a model railway layout!! This is a close up of how it's fitted:

 

 

The bottom length is screwed to the square batten and the bottom edge of it is parallel to the bottom of the baseboard: that way the water should run off the lip of the t&g and keep away from the baseboard. The t&g is held upright by screwing it to the fence posts, but not straight onto them - I've cut some bits of plastic pipe to act as spacers so that the water doesn't get trapped: unfortunately, I couldn't get photos of them. I've put sealant in the joins where 2 pieces of t&g meet horizontally.

 

The roof over the layout will follow the same design as previously: you can see the arrangement in the 2nd photo. The 4-sided shape was the end of the old covers (they got painted round when the house was painted and the dark lines top and bottom are sealant which I can't get off!!!) This time, however, the roof will slope more sharply backwards - to the top of the 3 planks of the rear wall. The intention is to use the t&g again but to run it at right angles to the board to ensure the water doesn't rest on it. The photos in the next instalment will (I hope) show what I mean.

 

You may wonder why the obsession with water!!! Well, the previous layout (outside) had a chipboard rear wall and a plywood roof, all covered in felt. However, over time, the felt kept cracking and letting in water, so the plywood and chipboard got damp, let in bits of water and and then warped, in the process creating ideal conditions for woodlice and slugs!! So this time I want to make sure there is no lying water. The rear wall being away from the fence posts should also help, although, unfortunately, the bottom plank at the house end does touch the post - but only just, and that end will not get much rain on it, anyway.

 

So that's it for today. No work planned for tomorrow, but I do need to find someone with a circular saw as I need the remaining t&g cut into about 80 pieces for the roof before I can go any further. However, I think I know a man who has got one!! More soon.

 

Rod

[Jon Fitness]

Thats looking nice and solid. I hope the fence doesn't wave around too much in the breeze! I've got a hammer and chisel to take the bricks out for the next stage as you go into the house ......

All the best

JF

[Dmudriver]

Thats looking nice and solid. I hope the fence doesn't wave around too much in the breeze! I've got a hammer and chisel to take the bricks out for the next stage as you go into the house ......

All the best

JF

 

I've been tempted, Jon, but have rresisted!!! About the fence: the first layout I built, I did support on the fence posts. When they eventually needed replacing, it was only the railway that was holding the fence up!!!!

 

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

If anyone read my post on Tuesday (now deleted) you will have realised I did not have a good day!! On Monday I had a hot, long and hard day cutting 82 pieces of t&G for the roof and setting some of them up into 2 panels - like this:

 

 

I set them up to cover the baseboard from the overnight rain: this was quite heavy and the t&g, being very dry, soaked up moisture and swelled, resulting in 2 gently curving, fan-shaped structures. I had to take them apart and let them dry in the sun, which wasted me quite a few hours, unfortunately. This was the main cause of the bad day!

 

However, Wednesday was much better and, at the end of the day (with help), this is where I was up to: the roof of the outside section is now complete. These 2 pics show how it looks, firstly away from the shed and second, back towards it:

 

 

 

The baseboard is wide enough for 4 tracks, which will be adequate for the fiddle yard.

 

I've ordered some exterior ply for the removable front covers today (which I will collect tomorrow) and I've put 2 coats of preservative on the top of the t&g roof. It was really very dry - the preservative really soaked up!

 

So that's progress up to today. It will probably be next week before the covers are finished as it's Telford this weekend and I'm DMU driving on Monday. More soon.

 

Rod

[Guest oldlugger]

Excellent Rod!

 

Cheers

Simon

[pwr]

I am liking this

 

Paul R

[JeffP]

I'll be waiting to see the track start going down.

 

I assume it will be hand built track to do justice to the work so far, not PECO?

[pwr]

Will you ballst the outdoor track

 

Paul R

[Dmudriver]

I'll be waiting to see the track start going down.

 

I assume it will be hand built track to do justice to the work so far, not PECO?

 

No - I'm afraid, Jeff!! It will be Peco as I've always used it, the layout is a big job and I don't really have the time to hand build the track. I have a medium-term aim to replace the pointwork I had built by building my own, but I want the layout operational before I start doing that.

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Will you ballst the outdoor track

 

Paul R

 

I'll ballast the bit from the shed to the fiddle yard, Paul - eventually!!! The fiddle yard is going to take about half the length of the outside area as I need at least 2x 8' sidings to hold trains from similar length platforms. But yes, it is my intention that the stretch to the fiddle yard will be ballasted and scenicked.

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Well, the rain of the last 3 days has saved me doing a water test on the outside structure!! It's shown - unfortunately - that the timber is not as waterproof as I thought/hoped!! So I've taken my Diamond Card to B&Q this morning and got some felt and waterproofing varnish.

 

When the rain stops, I'll start work again!! There is some inside work I am getting on with but nothing so interesting as to warrant any photos.

 

More soon.

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

HI all

 

Following my last post, we did get a few days of dry weather and I got some work done.  Firstly, I made the removable screens for the front.  These lift up and then drop down onto bearers and are clipped in place.  I hope this photo wil show what I mean:

 

 

The square bearer at the bottom is screwed to the baseboard and the larger one above is screwed to the screen.  The curved moulding acts as the lock.  There is a gap between them in the picture, but that was just due to my holding the cover up - for photographic effect!!

 

You can just see a bit of daylight at the top.  This is the gap to allow the locking piece to lift over the bottom bearer.  The screen is held in place by a strip at the top on the left, fastened to the end of the roof timbers.  This is a pic of it:

 

 

The gap is large enough to let the screen be lifted into place but small enough that the screen is held in place by the edging strip on the left.  It can't go too far back either, as it is restrained by the roof support on the far right.  The smaller timber to the left of the roof support is to hold the felt in place.

 

The felt is fastened over the top of the layout and covers a further sheet which hangs down the back.  The rain therefore runs off and down the back - onto the fence actually!! - although a lot of it does drip onto the stones.  It rained heavily yesterday (nearly all day) and I'm pleased to say the structure did its job and kept the water out.  

 

This is what the screens look like from the garden.  They're a bit redder than I hoped and the grain on the one nearest the shed is vertical rather than horizontal, but I can live with it, no problem.

 

 

and, looking the other way:

 

 

It's shiny because I covered it all with clear gloss waterproof varnish.  Now that that is done, the next job will be tracklaying to and in the fiddle yard - subject to decent weather to allow me to get out there.  Watch this space!!

 

Rod

[Dmudriver]

Hi all.

 

I've managed to get some work done on planning the fiddle yard in between rain showers!! The pic shows my longest train being used to test the siding lengths.

 

 

The next pic shows the layout of the fiddle yard. The 2 short sidings at the front are for locos. I originally had one the other side, but decided against it, in order to use the space for the Peco point motors. Yes, I could mount them underneath, but the less exposed to damp, spiders, etc I can get them, the better. However, it depends on how the fiddle yard works in operation: I may eventually have to move them underneath but I'll wait and see.

 

 

The next pic is looking away from the fiddle yard towards the hole in the shed wall, leading to the station area. There isn't a lot of main line, but enough. Well, it has to be enough as I don't have any more length!! It's actually about 12' up to where the tracks start converging into the double slip. I'll put a scenic break (a road bridge) just before the convergance starts.

 

 

I'll have to curve the track away from the back wall to make room for the Up Outer Home signal, but that's a detail for when I start the actual tracklaying. More soon.

 

Rod

[pwr]

Rod

 

It looks to me as if loco + 4 is the max length of train. Whole project coming along really well now! Wish I could say the same for Black Notley

 

Paul R

[Dmudriver]

Rod

 

It looks to me as if loco + 4 is the max length of train. Whole project coming along really well now! Wish I could say the same for Black Notley

 

Paul R

 

Hi Paul

 

Yes, a 50 plus 4 x Mark 1s is the most I can fit. As it happens, it's not too far off the prototype: The West Kirby platforms could take 2 x 3-car 503s and a quick calculation shows that 2 x 3-car 503s is roughly equal to 5.5 Mark 1s. Put a 50 in place of 1.5 Mark 1s and it's not too far away. The platforms were later lengthened a bit to take 2 x 3-car 507/508s but I'm still not too far off.

 

I'll normally use the Mark 1s with 31, 33 or 37 locos: the 50 will be used for specials or running-in turns from Crewe. I'm planning to use this loco-hauled set on West Kirby Town - Manchester or - Crewe, both via Chester. The rest will be DMUs (apart from the steam-hauled push-pull specials from WKT to New Brighton!!)

 

I've found your Black Notley thread: I'll read it all later. Meanwhile, the weather is sunny, so I need to cut the lawn and then try and do the fiddle yard pointwork before the rains come down again!!

 

Rod

[steve fay]

Got to love the Large logo 50. Very nice.

[Dmudriver]

Got to love the Large logo 50. Very nice.

 

I have to admit to a bit of self-indulgence and vanity, Steve. It's numbered and named 50021 "Rodney"!!!

 

Here's a couple of pics of it on delivery. It's a JLTRT kit with both bogies motorised. Lightly weathered.

 

 

 

It's planned to be running on "Apethorne Junction" at the Manchester exhibition on 6th and 7th October.

 

A bit out of period for Ranelagh Bridge, though!!

 

 

Rod

[beast66606]

I think FlyingSignalman would have fallen out of the box* if a 50 and a few coaches had turned up at West Kirby !

 

 

* Other boxes to fall out of are available - I wonder how he got his forum name ...

[lippy]

I think FlyingSignalman would have fallen out of the box* if a 50 and a few coaches had turned up at West Kirby !

 

 

* Other boxes to fall out of are available - I wonder how he got his forum name ...

 

I've seen 25s 40s 47s at WK even been on a few 25s 47s at WK, but if a 50 had turned up!! Then again 50007 did make it to Birkenhead North in 1986 for the open day!!

 

Lee

 

West Kirby Born and bred now in the Wet North-East.

 

http://roundtreessidings.wordpress.com/

[flyingsignalman]

I don't know if this helps................

418 passing Hooton South Jn about 1972 in the direction of the station, Signalman Reg Steele looks on.

They used to appear, now and then, on the Joint line until they went down to the Western, quite often on Penmaenmawr ballast trains.

[beast66606]

I don't know if this helps................

418 passing Hooton South Jn about 1972 in the direction of the station, Signalman Reg Steele looks on.

They used to appear, now and then, on the Joint line until they went down to the Western, quite often on Penmaenmawr ballast trains.

 

I remember 50012 and 50022 passing Rock Ferry ca 1974 but West Kirby would be very interesting !

[beast66606]

This may be of interest, a small section of an LMS 1934 plan for the electrification