down the sdjr Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 2 hours ago, hayfield said: The Exactoscale timbers are cheap enough £2 Hi Hayfield, thanks for that, some real bargains on the EMGS shop, sleepers and rail ordered. Paul. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 30, 2020 Author Share Posted August 30, 2020 12 minutes ago, down the sdjr said: Hi Hayfield, thanks for that, some real bargains on the EMGS shop, sleepers and rail ordered. Paul. Paul No problems, I use a lot of the Exactoscale special chairs and their plastic timbers are my first choice. I am changing my allegiance on 2 and 3 bolt chairs as C&L have the edge with their new sprues I am going a step back in time, as I have some old fashioned 00/H0 coarser scale turnouts to build using code 100 rail Code 100 fb is a bit like working with 0 gauge rail, but on 3mm size turnouts when 24" radius was generous 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 Very untidy workbench, old 00/H0 code 100 complex finished, hoping the radii are not too sharp and check rails will allow coarse scale RTR wheels through (I knew I should have kept that solid wheel Jinty chassis Plan on the bench is a guide for a modern image turnout 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpgibbons Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 Any tips please on how to put a smooth bend into rail? Curved switch rails (in 7mm) are my particular issue. I've seen a couple of rail bending jigs from the USA but nothing from the UK. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 11, 2020 Author Share Posted September 11, 2020 An answer you will not want is a Small GW Models sheet metal roller, as the small one has slots at one end Try rolling a round item (Pole or pipe) over it as you would a piece of sheet metal, I think the surface you roll it on must have some give in it. Other than this just curve it by sliding between your thumb and first two fingers 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted September 11, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 11, 2020 11 minutes ago, hayfield said: Try rolling a round item (Pole or pipe) over it as you would a piece of sheet metal, I think the surface you roll it on must have some give in it. I recommend a bottle of Worcestershire Sauce on a mouse mat. Martin. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 11, 2020 Author Share Posted September 11, 2020 Does it make the mat taste better? 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted September 11, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 11, 2020 (edited) 9 hours ago, hayfield said: Does it make the mat taste better? Don't know, but it enhances the flavour of the mouse (or rat...). Edited September 11, 2020 by St Enodoc 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 Started a modern style flatbottom turnout using Exactoscale plastic timbers and Peco pandrol clips with EMGS code 83 fb rail Making the common crossing was interesting, but seemed to come out fine, the Peco Pandrol clips are not very apparent 00SF code 75 bullhead gauges work fine (code 82 FB gauges are too narrow) Various gauges used, the 3 point gauges are useful for holding the rail in place Nearly finished, bonding wires and a copperclad tiebar masquerading as a timber needs fabricating Where possible I used some Exactoscale special chair parts 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted September 12, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 12, 2020 Hi John, That FB rail looks more like bullhead in the pics -- the foot of FB rail should be double the width of the head (5.5" and 2.75" wide). Am I missing something? It's a bit late to tell you, sorry, but Heavy Rail standard-gauge FB track in the UK doesn't bend the ends of the wing and check rails -- the flare angle is machined into the head of the rail: Also, Templot can print the rail foot on the templates (brown areas above). This makes it easier to align FB rail over the template. The settings are at: Templot doesn't automatically change to machined flares because bent ends is correct for narrow-gauge, light rail and industrial tracks. p.s. the rail-foot lines show only on the final printed templates, not on the screen, and not when printing the control template. cheers, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 Martin Thanks for the info, both about the foot and the flare. Too late. Also I thought the rail was a bit loose in the chairs but the solvent seems to shrink the clips tightening them up The EMGS code 83 rail was requested, the foot is the same size as the head, makes fabrication so much easier Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted September 13, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 13, 2020 59 minutes ago, hayfield said: The EMGS code 83 rail was requested, the foot is the same size as the head, makes fabrication so much easier Hi John, You have lost me there. If the foot is the same width as the head, it is bullhead rail, not flat-bottom. cheers, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 (edited) Martin Supplied by the EMGS as Code 83, the foot is certainly the same width and very slim, I have just checked the invoice and it clearly states code 83 flat bottom, but its nothing like Peco's !!! I have emailed the EMGS now and query it. I thought stupidly the code 83 was to a slightly different profile to code 82. Edited September 13, 2020 by hayfield 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted September 13, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 13, 2020 Maybe they supplied code75 bullhead by mistake. Does it measure 0.075" (1.9mm), or 0.082" (2.1mm) height? I'm puzzled why they call it code 83? For UK flat-bottom rails 6.25" height it should be code 82. (Code 83 is 3.5mm/ft scale for American rails.) Martin. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 49 minutes ago, martin_wynne said: Maybe they supplied code75 bullhead by mistake. Does it measure 0.075" (1.9mm), or 0.082" (2.1mm) height? I'm puzzled why they call it code 83? For UK flat-bottom rails 6.25" height it should be code 82. (Code 83 is 3.5mm/ft scale for American rails.) Martin. Martin I took it at face value, stupid I wrongly assumed it to be a different profile and the foot is so slim which slightly differs from some earlier rail I have My digital caliper's battery is dead (might be the caliper) but using it as a feeler gauge with a piece of older code 75 bh rail its the same, Top code 82 fb lower what's obviously not code 83fb, still I can alter the wing rails and I assume the check rails are also machined Thanks for spotting the error Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
down the sdjr Posted October 13, 2020 Share Posted October 13, 2020 On 30/08/2020 at 17:14, hayfield said: Keep up the good work, curviform Vees next? Had a break with works doing to the house, so had some time this week, had a go at a curviform. Still having problems with the V jig. Finding getting the formation square to 1mm difficult. Practise, practise. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 Looking good Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 A few weeks back I received the correct rail from the EMGS, so the B8 started again. Code 83 rail is a tight fit into the pandrol fittings I fitted the missing timber as a working tiebar, copperclad timber and brass slide chairs The past 2 days have been organizing my work room, or at least starting to. Brought on by my purchase of a Unimat Metal Line mini lathe, but also it was getting very untidy Very much work in progress, I need a new wheel and motor spares storage system as they are taking up so much space 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 A very cruel enlargement, however last week these two Exactoscale 00 track gauges were a solid lump of rust. Well all those hours watching the Repair Shop, Salvage Hunters the Restorers etc were not wasted, they have had about a week pickling in white vinegar, been given a blow torch (after the springs had been removed) a blast with WD40, a wire brushing eventually a light oil These gauges whilst are not the prettiest things are now usable. The main things are firstly they have no check rail slots, secondly the pressure from the springs can be eased off to allow the rail head to rotate. Just glad I did not throw them out 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 If i remember correctly if you take them apart you can use the washer for the cross ing rail or checkrails of course perhaps not the best way especially when the gaps may not be what you want. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 As you say the bonus is you can take them apart, but I think I would have to turn up a new shorter center tube, perhaps a project for my new lathe ?. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 16, 2020 Author Share Posted October 16, 2020 A quick search through my gauge box found 2 more later versions of the Exactoscale oo sprung track gauges, one thought is I could perhaps turn some center sections for some 12mm gauges for a narrow gauge loco I have A set of much earlier Exactoscale (pre Len Numan) 00 track gauges, left a 3 point gauge right a straight track gauge. I bought these from Puffers of Kenton in the 70's Another set of early Exactoscale gauge, in this case check rail gauges. I have better check rail gauges in 00, (which are 00SF ones but both gauges share the same measurement) so again may form the basis of being adapted. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted October 17, 2020 Share Posted October 17, 2020 What’s the purpose of the spring on the gauges Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 1 minute ago, Junctionmad said: What’s the purpose of the spring on the gauges The gauges are made up of washers and tubes on a bolt, depending on how tight the spring is compressed dictates how tight the gauge grips the rail. For copperclad construction a tight fit holds the rail upright, The reason I guess is that whilst the gap between the rails has to be exact, the stepper end washers cab be slightly under gauge, so the exact tolerance is the tube (the gauge - the width of 2 washers This shows anyone can make a gauge with commonly available washers with only the tube having to be exact, provided the center washers are under the width of the rail The benefit for chaired construction is that you can have a light spring which will allow the head of the rail to rotate to allow for the cant of the rail. The 2 end washers are stepped, the thicker part 1.86mm and the lip 1.11mm. I have just measured a piece of code 75 rail which is .94mm, so the flange is slightly thinner than the rail. The bolt is just under 3.5mm. No doubt someone will know the technical reasons, but as you can see its so easy to make your own gauges Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derekstuart Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 Hello John/JM I had a pair of gauges very similar to those which came with some other bits I bought a few years back and I couldn't see the point in them at all. Unless someone is very experienced in setting that spring exactly right then they are going to give themselves a problem. Likewise, how many people swap between copper clad and functional often enough to justify a 'one tool does all' gauge? There are of course people like your good self who use many different techniques, but surely a set of proper gauges for each job is a better option. This really looks like trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist. Derek Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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