Wright writes.....

[Dunsignalling]

I've bought one of the new Hornby ones in green to replace my old Replica RB which is a bit "treacly" in the paint department. It also had the red cantrail stripe (out of period for me), and its removal was not the most elegant example of my work!

 

However, I'll be using my long-stored Mainline one when I get round to working up another maroon set.

 

At the time (late seventies) it fully earned its reputation as a real game-changer in r-t-r coaches, and it was a good few years before anybody really equalled it.

Edited February 27, 2021 by Dunsignalling

[31A]

1 hour ago, Dunsignalling said:

You don't mention how "small" your small camera is, but most Lumix models let you adjust the colour balance (it's called "White balance" in the menu). I've (so far) not needed to take either of mine (I have a big one and a small one) off "Auto", which I haven't managed to "beat" yet. 

 

It might take a bit of playing around, but once you have found what setting suits your lighting, you should be able to save it in a custom menu so it's easy to select when you next need it.

 

John

 

Thank you John.  Without wanting to clutter up Tony's thread too much, here is a similar picture of 60505 that I took with the Panasonic Lumix at the same time as I took the I Phone pictures I posted yesterday.  I have cropped it to remove wallpaper etc., but otherwise not adjusted it at all.

 

 

The camera is a Panasonic Lumix DMC TZ-40; I've had it for a few years now so it's not the most up to date model.  Like a lot of electronic devices these days, I'm sure it can do more things than I can ever dream of or understand!  But I'm sure I could get better results from it than I do, if I took the trouble to study it properly.  I do find the control wheel on top is prone to turning itself round when I put the camera into its case; however at the moment it is on the "A" (Automatic) setting which is where I normally leave it.

 

I think the colour of the I Phone pictures is better; for example the rails in the foreground aren't really such a bright brown colour as that photo portrays.  I've just been using my phone camera for outdoor shots for some time now; apart from anything else, it's easier to get them from there into your computer, and had kept the Lumix for pictures of models, but now I'm beginning to think the phone camera is better for them too.  Such are the advances of technology, I suppose....

 

[Woodcock29]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

This J3 was withdrawn at the beginning of 1953, which (given its condition) suggests these shots were taken in 1952. 

 

Oops Tony that's a J1 and it was condemned in Jan '53 as you say. A very handsome and purposeful loco in my view and on my list to acquire. Originally I planned to convert one of Graeme King's J6s into a J1 but I believe in due course that LRM may well release one.

 

Back to the Hornby A2/2. Has anyone else got one with the expansion link fitted in the wrong place? Its only incorrect on the left hand side. This arrived yesterday at one of my friends and its the first thing I noticed when I saw it today.  I'll endeavour to fix it for him as the remainder seems to be generally okay, a few fittings need straightening but that's not too difficult and the cylinders and motion bracket need to be lifted a bit on the left hand side. I think the cab and firebox are ok. The colour will be fixed, as others have done, with a good dose of weathering. I've borrowed it so I can write a review of it for our BRMA journal. I have to say the valve gear (apart from the fitting error) is the best I've seen on a RTR loco for a long time. There's a lot of meat in the connecting rod and the slidebars have good depth and look really good.

 

 

Andrew 

[St Enodoc]

46 minutes ago, Dunsignalling said:

At the time (late seventies) it fully earned its reputation as a real game-changer in r-t-r coaches, and it was a good few years before anybody really equalled it.

Agreed, as did the slightly later Collett coaches.

[Dunsignalling]

1 hour ago, 31A said:

 

Thank you John.  Without wanting to clutter up Tony's thread too much, here is a similar picture of 60505 that I took with the Panasonic Lumix at the same time as I took the I Phone pictures I posted yesterday.  I have cropped it to remove wallpaper etc., but otherwise not adjusted it at all.

 

 

The camera is a Panasonic Lumix DMC TZ-40; I've had it for a few years now so it's not the most up to date model.  Like a lot of electronic devices these days, I'm sure it can do more things than I can ever dream of or understand!  But I'm sure I could get better results from it than I do, if I took the trouble to study it properly.  I do find the control wheel on top is prone to turning itself round when I put the camera into its case; however at the moment it is on the "A" (Automatic) setting which is where I normally leave it.

 

I think the colour of the I Phone pictures is better; for example the rails in the foreground aren't really such a bright brown colour as that photo portrays.  I've just been using my phone camera for outdoor shots for some time now; apart from anything else, it's easier to get them from there into your computer, and had kept the Lumix for pictures of models, but now I'm beginning to think the phone camera is better for them too.  Such are the advances of technology, I suppose....

 

You bet. The manual for my "big" Lumix, a G9, runs to 300 pages, too much to lug around! I have a copy downloaded on my phone to jog my memory when I haven't required a useful feature for some while. 

 

The thing that should make a difference to yours is taking the white balance off auto, which means going into the menu (the auto on the dial is just to get the amount of light correct, not the nature of it). In your shot above, there isn't enough, probably because the camera is trying to avoid shake on a long exposure. You should be able to dial in some extra fairly easily by switching to Auto ISO which will increase the sensitivity. If the camera has one, try the "Intelligent Auto" mode first.

 

To improve the colour, just place a piece of white card where you had the loco in your pic, then play with the white balance settings until the card looks its "best" white on the screen. You will be amazed how much control you have, which is the main reason for having a "proper" camera as well as the one in a phone. All you'll be doing is tuning-out the colour cast caused by your lights. If you can't save the setting (I'm not familiar with the TZ series cameras) just make a note of it for future use. Don't forget to put it back to auto for general pix, though, or you'll get some very odd results in daylight. 

 

John

Edited February 27, 2021 by Dunsignalling

[MJI]

I am keeping my Mainline one for my third rake of aircons

[Dunsignalling]

8 minutes ago, Dunsignalling said:

You bet. The manual for my "big" Lumix, a G9, runs to 300 pages, too much to lug around! I have a copy downloaded on my phone to jog my memory when I haven't required a useful feature for some while. 

 

The thing that should make a difference to yours is taking the white balance off auto, which means going into the menu (the auto on the dial is just to get the amount of light correct, not the nature of it). In your shot above, there isn't enough, probably because the camera is trying to avoid shake on a long exposure. You should be able to dial in some extra fairly easily by switching to Auto ISO which will increase the sensitivity. If the camera has one, try the "Intelligent Auto" mode first.

 

To improve the colour, just place a piece of white card where you had the loco in your pic, then play with the white balance settings until the card looks its "best" white on the screen. You will be amazed how much control you have, which is the main reason for having a "proper" camera as well as the one in a phone. All you'll be doing is tuning-out the colour cast caused by your lights. If you can't save the setting (I'm not familiar with the TZ series cameras) just make a note of it for future use. Don't forget to put it back to auto for general pix, though, or you'll get some very odd results in daylight. 

 

John

If you are using a laptop for storage/uploading, the standard photo software can sort out under-exposure with a couple of clicks, as below.

[Dunsignalling]

Or this, using "Enhance your picture". Both using the standard Windows software that came with the laptop. Five minutes work can improve matters much more again when you get the hang of it.

Edited February 27, 2021 by Dunsignalling

[Dunsignalling]

A couple more clicks reduces the orangey look of the rails...

[92220]

Afternoon Tony, and all on WW,

 

my effort with the old RB a few years ago, which was not much more than weathering and Klear:

 

I think this is currently with Graham for running on Shap, but I can’t remember!

 

Best wishes,

 

Iain

[Denbridge]

Hello Tony and everyone. A question if I may.

Has anyone experienced any issues with Barry Stevenson / Slaters flux? I just opened a new bottle and I dont know whats in it, but it certainly doesnt seem to be flux. Ive tried the 2nd bottle that ive bought and that is exactly the same. Joints are meticulously clean, I've never had this happen before. Ive tried it on both WM and nickel silver. My old bottle with just a little in the bottom is fine. Typical that this has to happen in lockdown. Any thoughts, good suggestions for different flux i can order online would be most appreciated.

 

 

 

[Denbridge]

5 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Gordon,

 

Some more Wood Green memory joggers.......................

 

 

 

I wonder why the GN arranged so many of its main line stations with three roads going through the centre, meaning that either the Up fast or the Down fast were platform faces? Harringay, Hornsey, Hatfield, Essendine and Retford, as well as Wood Green, spring to mind.

 

This J3 was withdrawn at the beginning of 1953, which (given its condition) suggests these shots were taken in 1952. 

 

 

Another begrimed V2. I've shown this shot before, and the carriage-pickers had a fine time!

 

 

During its time shedded at 35A, the unique K5 heads an express freight northwards. 

 

It was because (at one time) Thompson's rebuilt K3 was on the GN that prompted me to make a model of it (about 25 years ago now). 

 

 

It's an old Wills K3 kit, with a part scratch-built front end, scratch-built chassis (with Nu-Cast B1 cylinders and Jamieson motion) and a scratch-built tender.

 

Strictly speaking, it's out of time for Little Bytham's period, but it usually acts as a conversation piece (or has done) when guests visit. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

 

 

There is a superb 7 1/4 gauge live steam K5 at the Great Cockcrow Railway in Surrey, where i used to be a member. Drove it a few times and its awesome.

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, Woodcock29 said:

Oops Tony that's a J1 and it was condemned in Jan '53 as you say. A very handsome and purposeful loco in my view and on my list to acquire. Originally I planned to convert one of Graeme King's J6s into a J1 but I believe in due course that LRM may well release one.

 

Back to the Hornby A2/2. Has anyone else got one with the expansion link fitted in the wrong place? Its only incorrect on the left hand side. This arrived yesterday at one of my friends and its the first thing I noticed when I saw it today.  I'll endeavour to fix it for him as the remainder seems to be generally okay, a few fittings need straightening but that's not too difficult and the cylinders and motion bracket need to be lifted a bit on the left hand side. I think the cab and firebox are ok. The colour will be fixed, as others have done, with a good dose of weathering. I've borrowed it so I can write a review of it for our BRMA journal. I have to say the valve gear (apart from the fitting error) is the best I've seen on a RTR loco for a long time. There's a lot of meat in the connecting rod and the slidebars have good depth and look really good.

 

 

Andrew 

Good afternoon Andrew,

 

Of course it's a J1 (I knew that), but advancing years mean that since I'm building a J3 at the moment I can only keep one description in my mind at a time! I've now altered it.

 

I agree about the Hornby A2/2 valve gear (though how the example you've shown was fixed incorrectly, I've no idea). It's far more substantial and realistic than Hornby's comparative A3 and A4 valve gears.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

Or this, using "Enhance your picture". Both using the standard Windows software that came with the laptop. Five minutes work can improve matters much more again when you get the hang of it.

Excellent stuff,

 

Material (and descriptions) like this can never be accused of 'clogging up' this thread. It's a vital part of it.

 

What your much-improved image proves is that, with weathering, any issues concerning Hornby's BR green rendition disappear. Steve (31A) has produced one of the most naturally-realistic models I've seen in a very long time. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

[Tony Wright]

23 minutes ago, Denbridge said:

Hello Tony and everyone. A question if I may.

Has anyone experienced any issues with Barry Stevenson / Slaters flux? I just opened a new bottle and I dont know whats in it, but it certainly doesnt seem to be flux. Ive tried the 2nd bottle that ive bought and that is exactly the same. Joints are meticulously clean, I've never had this happen before. Ive tried it on both WM and nickel silver. My old bottle with just a little in the bottom is fine. Typical that this has to happen in lockdown. Any thoughts, good suggestions for different flux i can order online would be most appreciated.

 

 

 

I've used Barrie Stevenson's flux in the past with no problems, though I now use something a bit stronger; either LRM's 12% phosphoric acid flux or Hobby Holidays' 12% phosphoric acid. 

 

I ordered some flux from Hobby Holidays last year (during lockdown) and it was delivered by courier. I ordered paints as well, plus a fair bit of raw materials (to make the cost of delivery worthwhile).

 

It's excellent flux.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[LNER4479]

4 hours ago, Woodcock29 said:

 

 

Andrew 

Crumbs - that's a bit of a howler. You'd have thought a bit of far eastern poka-yoke would stop things like that happening

[Denbridge]

44 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

I've used Barrie Stevenson's flux in the past with no problems, though I now use something a bit stronger; either LRM's 12% phosphoric acid flux or Hobby Holidays' 12% phosphoric acid. 

 

I ordered some flux from Hobby Holidays last year (during lockdown) and it was delivered by courier. I ordered paints as well, plus a fair bit of raw materials (to make the cost of delivery worthwhile).

 

It's excellent flux.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Thanks Tony, I' ll try Hobby Holidays. LRM don't provide mail order on flux. This is the first time I've had a problem with Slaters flux. I use it mainly because I can take a drive to Squires in 'normal' times and pick up a bottle and anything else i need. At one time, i used to follow the advice of Iain Rice and mix my own. My local pharmacy has a new (ish) chemist and she won't sell me a bottle of phosphoric acid. Very unsporting behaviour. 

[JamieR4489]

1 hour ago, Denbridge said:

Hello Tony and everyone. A question if I may.

Has anyone experienced any issues with Barry Stevenson / Slaters flux? I just opened a new bottle and I dont know whats in it, but it certainly doesnt seem to be flux. Ive tried the 2nd bottle that ive bought and that is exactly the same. Joints are meticulously clean, I've never had this happen before. Ive tried it on both WM and nickel silver. My old bottle with just a little in the bottom is fine. Typical that this has to happen in lockdown. Any thoughts, good suggestions for different flux i can order online would be most appreciated.

 

 

 

I had exactly the same issue with the same flux last year and someone on here mentioned washing up liquid helps. I put a few drops in and the flux now behaves as normal.

[Denbridge]

2 minutes ago, JamieR4489 said:

I had exactly the same issue with the same flux last year and someone on here mentioned washing up liquid helps. I put a few drops in and the flux now behaves as normal.

Many thanks. I will try a little. This has me totally puzzled so i at least my experience isnt unique. It may be my imagination, but slaters flux does seem weaker than it was,  when it works at all that is. But this stuff doesnt even give a hint of a fizz when the iron is applied. Thanks again, im off to give fairy liquid a try.

[2750Papyrus]

17 hours ago, gordon s said:

Normally I’d say Google is your friend, but the LNER forum came up trumps....

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/31514768@N05/3502444862/in/album-72157617526193082/

 

Loads more pics if you scroll through the side arrows.

Wasn’t sure about copyright, so just a link rather than embedded.

 

Golly, I must have heard most of those trains from my school desk!

[micknich2003]

Phosphoric Acid is is easily and cheaply bought off E Bay. I have "Brewed" my own flux for many years.

[D.Platt]

Hi Tony

When you say the K5 is outside your time period for Little Bytham is this because it was a Stratford loco ? , but it could always have been “borrowed “ by another depot.

Dennis 

[thegreenhowards]

Good afternoon Tony,

 

A few weeks ago, we were discussing eBay rescues. Well here is my latest. It’s an ex LNER F1 (of MSLR origin). I believe it’s the Cotswold or Sutherland kit.

 

 

It was glued together but quite well constructed. The paint job was described as average but that is putting it kindly! The chassis was a basic brass version with an X04 and poor pick ups so it didn’t run well. While V2 and A1 kits go very cheaply on eBay, locos where there is no RTR equivalent tend to go for much more and I’ve previously watched these go for well over £100, so was pleased to get this for £60. 

 

I wanted an F2 which is very similar to an F1. I think the bunker on the early F1s was shorter but this one seemed to be the right length. the F2s had the wheel type smokebox door lock and there were lots of detail differences between locos - safety valves, chimneys, coal rails, wiggly pipes etc. The F2s were converted to push pull and I wanted E7111 which saw out its last years on the Ally Pally shuttle. There’s a good picture of it in the relevant Yeadon.

 

I had previously tried to convert the Bachmann lanky tank to an F2 but given up for reasons I can’t now quite remember. But I still had the dismembered model with some bits of an SE Finecast N5 kit which I was using to ‘GCR’ise it. I decided to re-use that Bachmann chassis (which gives a smooth mechanism with three wheel pick up each side) and bits like the chimney, open safety valves and smokebox door fastening.

 

I stripped the paint off my purchase and changed certain bits over. I then added some push pull gear from bits of a spare Westinghouse pump and some wiggly pipes on the front of the tank.

 

 

I then painted it with Halfords gloss black and numbered it with Modelmaster water slide transfers (no film you will note when applied to gloss black). I then got stalled because my last can of Testors Dullcote ran out and I couldn’t find any more - it seems to be sold out everywhere. But a search online came up with a car matt lacquer (autotek professional) and that worked very well and seems better value.

 

 

 

 

 

It now just needs glazing and weathering when the weather warms up.

 

Andy

[Denbridge]

1 hour ago, micknich2003 said:

Phosphoric Acid is is easily and cheaply bought off E Bay. I have "Brewed" my own flux for many years.

Its more a case of needing some now. For some reason, i never thought of Ebay. I'll take a look. Many thanks.

[92220]

Duplicate

Edited February 27, 2021 by 92220
A bizarre double post 5 hours later!